Looking for local Pentax "expert" Boise, Id Need TS help!

Daniel Gamel · 04-13-2018, 09:44 AM

I have a K-3 silver with a DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, DA* 60-250, 100 macro etc. All very good glass supposedly.
I'm having issues with sharpness, color, and general image quality. Big issues. f22, on a tripod, focus locked, 1/250th or higher ss, and still fuzzy with bad color. I'm hoping there is someone local that would be willing to check it out and maybe help with adjustments. (back focus, front focus....I have no idea) Especially with the 16-50. Maybe it's just a bad one? I get better pictures with my Samsung galaxy phone. I have a lot invested in this setup and have been nothing but disappointed. I also need to do a screw drive mod since the SDM is failing on 2 lenses. Since it's a Pentax, camera stores just tell me to "upgrade" to a Canon or Nikon because they are "better". I've seen stellar photographs from all makes, so I don't buy into the one is so much better than another argument, but this setup is killing me. I just want to figure out what I'm doing wrong, or what may be happening with my gear. Any LOCAL leads would be appreciated! Always easier to figure things out with camera in hand.Thank you!

mcgregni · 04-13-2018, 10:11 AM - **1 Like**

A few bad image examples posted right here would be worth a thousand words, and you'll get instant feedback. Could you give an idea about your own photographic experience and if you have used other DSLRs before?

maw · 04-13-2018, 10:14 AM

Originally posted by Daniel Gamel

Looking for local Pentax "expert" Boise, Id Need TS help!

Hi Daniel,

You say two things lack of sharpness, and color problems, I don't think all three lenses have problems, but probably it is the K3 that suffers from some problem.
1° Calibrating the reflex (K3 in this case), Front / Back Focus
here you will find the procedure I posted recently.
Or this

Or if you watch some movies on youtube they will be of great help to you.
You Tube

You Tube

After the first problem is solved, we will see if the colour problem still exists.

**jlstrawman** · 04-13-2018, 10:16 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by Daniel Gamel

I have a K-3 silver with a DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, DA* 60-250, 100 macro etc. All very good glass supposedly.
I'm having issues with sharpness, color, and general image quality. Big issues. f22, on a tripod, focus locked, 1/250th or higher ss, and still fuzzy with bad color. I'm hoping there is someone local that would be willing to check it out and maybe help with adjustments. (back focus, front focus....I have no idea) Especially with the 16-50. Maybe it's just a bad one? I get better pictures with my Samsung galaxy phone. I have a lot invested in this setup and have been nothing but disappointed. I also need to do a screw drive mod since the SDM is failing on 2 lenses. Since it's a Pentax, camera stores just tell me to "upgrade" to a Canon or Nikon because they are "better". I've seen stellar photographs from all makes, so I don't buy into the one is so much better than another argument, but this setup is killing me. I just want to figure out what I'm doing wrong, or what may be happening with my gear. Any LOCAL leads would be appreciated! Always easier to figure things out with camera in hand.Thank you!

I don't think too many lenses are at their best when used at f/22. Lens diffraction is likely part of the problem:

Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperture and Airy Disks

You will probably have better results using f/5.6, f/8, or f/11.

**BigMackCam** · 04-13-2018, 10:18 AM

Daniel - I'm not local to you, I'm afraid... however, note that f/22 on an APS-C camera is going to be subject to diffraction. You should be getting your sharpest results - considering the lenses and camera - between f/5.6 and f/8. Much beyond f/8 and diffraction begins to kick in.

**Alex645** · 04-13-2018, 10:21 AM

Originally posted by Daniel Gamel

I'm having issues with sharpness, color, and general image quality. Big issues. f22, on a tripod, focus locked, 1/250th or higher ss, and still fuzzy with bad color.

Originally posted by mcgregni

A few bad image examples posted right here would be worth a thousand words, and you'll get instant feedback. Could you give an idea about your own photographic experience and if you have used other DSLRs before?

First I'd recommend you use the Member Map link from this forum to find local members and to PM them your request:
Worldwide Pentax User Map - PentaxForums.com

But in the meantime there is a TON of experience right here on the forum and just posting one or two examples, perhaps from different lenses and include the EXIF metadata.

I agree with the diffraction comments and to avoid small apertures like f/22 if you're unhappy with sharpness. If you're using a tripod, do your have SR (shake reduction) turned off?

**jatrax** · 04-13-2018, 10:22 AM

Daniel, the first I thing I notice is that f/22 is unlikely to produce good images. Try at f/8 to start.

As noted above AF fine tuning might be in order.

But without some examples it is hard to say. Are you shooting jpg or RAW? What software are you using to develop with? What shooting mode is the camera in? What white balance, what exposure mode?

**csa** · 04-13-2018, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by Alex645

and just posting one or two examples, perhaps from different lenses and include the EXIF metadata.

I agree, post some examples. Also, I use a K3 with several different lenses, and I rarely use F22. Usually F8. I'm very happy with my results.

Daniel Gamel · 04-13-2018, 12:38 PM

I appreciate all of the responses!
I had a K-7 prior with a sigma DG I think it was a 17-50 and loved it.
I was not aware that f22 could cause issues. I've always heard of avoiding wide open if possible. 90% of problems are with the 16-50 at the wider focal lengths. I will post some examples as soon as I can.
Thank you again!

**Just1MoreDave** · 04-13-2018, 12:40 PM - **1 Like**

No one has mentioned this yet, but you want to turn off SR on a tripod. The camera doesn't expect the stability of a tripod. I change the drive mode to 2 second delay which turns SR off automatically, and helps with shutter vibrations.

Tripods do make it really easy to test. For example, you can take a shot at f22 in Av mode, then hit the AE-L button. You'll see an asterisk in the viewfinder status line and on the rear screen. Then you can spin the e-dial to choose other apertures and take shots at f16, f11, f8 and f5.6. The camera will adjust the shutter speed to make all the exposures the same. You can then see what apertures work best and how your photos are affected.

**mikesbike** · 04-13-2018, 12:49 PM

If you shoot JPEG, they can be very sharp also. It is in other matters where RAW can be advantageous, such as color gradation, shadow gradation (dynamic range) etc. and setting your own sharpness value. With JPEGs much depends on the camera's internal JPEG engine for quality.

Go into your Custom Images menus, and set your sharpening to Fine Sharpening for both the "Bright" (default for most shooting situations) and the "Natural" categories. The "Natural" setting has less color saturation and a more neutral palette than "Bright". You might consider increasing sharpness level for "Natural" by 1 notch to match that of "Bright", which is + 1 by default, in addition to setting Fine Sharpening for both.

Try using manual-focus with your lenses. Pay no attention to the camera's focus indicator, just use your eye to determine optimum focus by going over then under the focus point until you zero in on best focus. After taking that shot, do the same shot using AF. If your MF shot looks better, your lens probably needs the fine AF adjustment process. Make sure your shutter speed is high enough, or even better use a tripod and use the 2-second timer, which will automatically have the mirror in the up position when the shutter fires to avoid any vibration the mirror might cause.

Only use very small apertures (higher numbers) when you have to in order to increase your depth of field to get more of your frame in focus (usually for telephoto landscape shots or macro shots). Otherwise, keep between one stop from wide open and f/9.5 or so for best sharpness.

Daniel Gamel · 04-13-2018, 01:25 PM - **1 Like**

I did not have SR off while on the tripod. I actually had the thought that tripod plus SR would mean even higher level of sharpness! I shoot RAW and JPEG. Assumed RAW would have better results because of more info captured. Didn't think that it would be a different look. I've also heard live view can produce better results. So much to learn about the demands of digital. Definitely more to it than my ME Super with a roll of Kodachrome.

---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:27 PM ----------

Is getting an exposure value from a light meter and grey card still a viable thing?

---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:28 PM ----------

Also, I generally shoot in AV mode with auto white balance.

**Alex645** · 04-13-2018, 01:47 PM

Originally posted by Alex645

If you're using a tripod, do your have SR (shake reduction) turned off?

Originally posted by Daniel Gamel

I did not have SR off while on the tripod. I actually had the thought that tripod plus SR would mean even higher level of sharpness! I shoot RAW and JPEG. Assumed RAW would have better results because of more info captured. Didn't think that it would be a different look. I've also heard live view can produce better results.

SR is anticipating camera shake with slower shutter speeds, so when the camera is locked down on a tripod, the SR will actually create a bit of blur. I didn't think that would be a major problem, however, at 1/250" but it can contribute to a lack of sharpness.

JPEGs with no post processing or editing will look better than RAW (because the camera has done the processing), but RAW with good editing and post processing will look better than the jpeg. RAW has more potential, but more work and time to tweak. Jpeg's are for speed and convenience.

Live View has better auto focus accuracy in general, but wouldn't affect the final image.

Daniel Gamel · 04-13-2018, 01:57 PM - **1 Like**

So it is normal to have to do some work in PS or LR to get the image to look like what I was shooting. That is good to know. I have an older version of Lightroom, but no skills in it. I imagine I have been very lucky in the past not having to do post processing. I have mainly had Sony point and shoot type cameras after I stopped shooting film.
I will post some Raw files from a recent Grand Canyon trip. I will try to upload this evening or tomorrow.
Thank you all again. There is a lot of knowledge to be gained here. I imagine most of this is user error.

maw · 04-13-2018, 02:25 PM

Originally posted by Daniel Gamel

I did not have SR off while on the tripod. I actually had the thought that tripod plus SR would mean even higher level of sharpness! I shoot RAW and JPEG. Assumed RAW would have better results because of more info captured. Didn't think that it would be a different look. I've also heard live view can produce better results. So much to learn about the demands of digital. Definitely more to it than my ME Super with a roll of Kodachrome.

---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:27 PM ----------

Is getting an exposure value from a light meter and grey card still a viable thing?

---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:28 PM ----------

Also, I generally shoot in AV mode with auto white balance.

Hi Daniel,

If you take pictures with several light sources of different Kelvin degrees, you should use multi-auto white balance. It was introduced with K3. Although white balance can be done later, I prefer to use

Expo Disk or Color Checker Passport, you'll have fewer problems later, and later you can create more color profiles of your K3. Go to page 60 of the manual in 'Lens correction' you will find a rich menu,

where you will find how to perform lens correction, including diffraction. A careful reading of the manual saves you a lot of hassle later.

04-13-2018, 09:44 AM	#1
Daniel Gamel Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 28	Looking for local Pentax "expert" Boise, Id Need TS help! I have a K-3 silver with a DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, DA* 60-250, 100 macro etc. All very good glass supposedly. I'm having issues with sharpness, color, and general image quality. Big issues. f22, on a tripod, focus locked, 1/250th or higher ss, and still fuzzy with bad color. I'm hoping there is someone local that would be willing to check it out and maybe help with adjustments. (back focus, front focus....I have no idea) Especially with the 16-50. Maybe it's just a bad one? I get better pictures with my Samsung galaxy phone. I have a lot invested in this setup and have been nothing but disappointed. I also need to do a screw drive mod since the SDM is failing on 2 lenses. Since it's a Pentax, camera stores just tell me to "upgrade" to a Canon or Nikon because they are "better". I've seen stellar photographs from all makes, so I don't buy into the one is so much better than another argument, but this setup is killing me. I just want to figure out what I'm doing wrong, or what may be happening with my gear. Any LOCAL leads would be appreciated! Always easier to figure things out with camera in hand.Thank you!

04-13-2018, 12:49 PM	#11
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,566	If you shoot JPEG, they can be very sharp also. It is in other matters where RAW can be advantageous, such as color gradation, shadow gradation (dynamic range) etc. and setting your own sharpness value. With JPEGs much depends on the camera's internal JPEG engine for quality. Go into your Custom Images menus, and set your sharpening to Fine Sharpening for both the "Bright" (default for most shooting situations) and the "Natural" categories. The "Natural" setting has less color saturation and a more neutral palette than "Bright". You might consider increasing sharpness level for "Natural" by 1 notch to match that of "Bright", which is + 1 by default, in addition to setting Fine Sharpening for both. Try using manual-focus with your lenses. Pay no attention to the camera's focus indicator, just use your eye to determine optimum focus by going over then under the focus point until you zero in on best focus. After taking that shot, do the same shot using AF. If your MF shot looks better, your lens probably needs the fine AF adjustment process. Make sure your shutter speed is high enough, or even better use a tripod and use the 2-second timer, which will automatically have the mirror in the up position when the shutter fires to avoid any vibration the mirror might cause. Only use very small apertures (higher numbers) when you have to in order to increase your depth of field to get more of your frame in focus (usually for telephoto landscape shots or macro shots). Otherwise, keep between one stop from wide open and f/9.5 or so for best sharpness. Last edited by mikesbike; 04-14-2018 at 06:32 PM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Please help us out - "Expert" lenses	bilybianca	Pentax SLR Lens Discussion	9	03-21-2021 11:38 PM
TIPA Awards: Pentax KP is "Best APSC DSLR Expert"	disconnekt	Photographic Industry and Professionals	8	12-24-2017 08:03 AM
K-1 wins TIPA 2016 "Best Full-Frame DSLR Expert"	i83N	Pentax News and Rumors	71	04-25-2016 03:41 PM
Need the help of a flash expert...	PeterAM	Flashes, Lighting, and Studio	9	11-27-2009 03:02 PM
I need some expert help with a photo	watch1	General Talk	19	10-30-2007 06:49 PM

04-13-2018, 10:11 AM - 1 Like	#2
mcgregni Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Surrey, England Posts: 2,603	A few bad image examples posted right here would be worth a thousand words, and you'll get instant feedback. Could you give an idea about your own photographic experience and if you have used other DSLRs before?

04-13-2018, 10:16 AM - 1 Like	#4
jlstrawman Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Midwest US Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,058	Originally posted by Daniel Gamel I have a K-3 silver with a DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, DA* 60-250, 100 macro etc. All very good glass supposedly. I'm having issues with sharpness, color, and general image quality. Big issues. f22, on a tripod, focus locked, 1/250th or higher ss, and still fuzzy with bad color. I'm hoping there is someone local that would be willing to check it out and maybe help with adjustments. (back focus, front focus....I have no idea) Especially with the 16-50. Maybe it's just a bad one? I get better pictures with my Samsung galaxy phone. I have a lot invested in this setup and have been nothing but disappointed. I also need to do a screw drive mod since the SDM is failing on 2 lenses. Since it's a Pentax, camera stores just tell me to "upgrade" to a Canon or Nikon because they are "better". I've seen stellar photographs from all makes, so I don't buy into the one is so much better than another argument, but this setup is killing me. I just want to figure out what I'm doing wrong, or what may be happening with my gear. Any LOCAL leads would be appreciated! Always easier to figure things out with camera in hand.Thank you! I don't think too many lenses are at their best when used at f/22. Lens diffraction is likely part of the problem: Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperture and Airy Disks You will probably have better results using f/5.6, f/8, or f/11.

04-13-2018, 10:18 AM	#5
BigMackCam Digitiser of Film Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: North East of England Posts: 20,705	Daniel - I'm not local to you, I'm afraid... however, note that f/22 on an APS-C camera is going to be subject to diffraction. You should be getting your sharpest results - considering the lenses and camera - between f/5.6 and f/8. Much beyond f/8 and diffraction begins to kick in.

04-13-2018, 10:21 AM	#6
Alex645 Site Supporter Join Date: May 2015 Location: Kaneohe, HI Photos: Albums Posts: 3,527	Originally posted by Daniel Gamel I'm having issues with sharpness, color, and general image quality. Big issues. f22, on a tripod, focus locked, 1/250th or higher ss, and still fuzzy with bad color. Originally posted by mcgregni A few bad image examples posted right here would be worth a thousand words, and you'll get instant feedback. Could you give an idea about your own photographic experience and if you have used other DSLRs before? First I'd recommend you use the Member Map link from this forum to find local members and to PM them your request: Worldwide Pentax User Map - PentaxForums.com But in the meantime there is a TON of experience right here on the forum and just posting one or two examples, perhaps from different lenses and include the EXIF metadata. I agree with the diffraction comments and to avoid small apertures like f/22 if you're unhappy with sharpness. If you're using a tripod, do your have SR (shake reduction) turned off?

04-13-2018, 10:22 AM	#7
jatrax Site Supporter Join Date: May 2010 Location: Washington Cascades Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 12,992	Daniel, the first I thing I notice is that f/22 is unlikely to produce good images. Try at f/8 to start. As noted above AF fine tuning might be in order. But without some examples it is hard to say. Are you shooting jpg or RAW? What software are you using to develop with? What shooting mode is the camera in? What white balance, what exposure mode?

04-13-2018, 10:56 AM	#8
csa Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Montana mountains Posts: 10,133	Originally posted by Alex645 and just posting one or two examples, perhaps from different lenses and include the EXIF metadata. I agree, post some examples. Also, I use a K3 with several different lenses, and I rarely use F22. Usually F8. I'm very happy with my results.

04-13-2018, 12:38 PM	#9
Daniel Gamel Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 28 Original Poster	I appreciate all of the responses! I had a K-7 prior with a sigma DG I think it was a 17-50 and loved it. I was not aware that f22 could cause issues. I've always heard of avoiding wide open if possible. 90% of problems are with the 16-50 at the wider focal lengths. I will post some examples as soon as I can. Thank you again!

04-13-2018, 12:40 PM - 1 Like	#10
Just1MoreDave Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Aurora, CO Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,340	No one has mentioned this yet, but you want to turn off SR on a tripod. The camera doesn't expect the stability of a tripod. I change the drive mode to 2 second delay which turns SR off automatically, and helps with shutter vibrations. Tripods do make it really easy to test. For example, you can take a shot at f22 in Av mode, then hit the AE-L button. You'll see an asterisk in the viewfinder status line and on the rear screen. Then you can spin the e-dial to choose other apertures and take shots at f16, f11, f8 and f5.6. The camera will adjust the shutter speed to make all the exposures the same. You can then see what apertures work best and how your photos are affected.

04-13-2018, 01:25 PM - 1 Like	#12
Daniel Gamel Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 28 Original Poster	I did not have SR off while on the tripod. I actually had the thought that tripod plus SR would mean even higher level of sharpness! I shoot RAW and JPEG. Assumed RAW would have better results because of more info captured. Didn't think that it would be a different look. I've also heard live view can produce better results. So much to learn about the demands of digital. Definitely more to it than my ME Super with a roll of Kodachrome. ---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:27 PM ---------- Is getting an exposure value from a light meter and grey card still a viable thing? ---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:28 PM ---------- Also, I generally shoot in AV mode with auto white balance.

04-13-2018, 01:47 PM	#13
Alex645 Site Supporter Join Date: May 2015 Location: Kaneohe, HI Photos: Albums Posts: 3,527	Originally posted by Alex645 If you're using a tripod, do your have SR (shake reduction) turned off? Originally posted by Daniel Gamel I did not have SR off while on the tripod. I actually had the thought that tripod plus SR would mean even higher level of sharpness! I shoot RAW and JPEG. Assumed RAW would have better results because of more info captured. Didn't think that it would be a different look. I've also heard live view can produce better results. SR is anticipating camera shake with slower shutter speeds, so when the camera is locked down on a tripod, the SR will actually create a bit of blur. I didn't think that would be a major problem, however, at 1/250" but it can contribute to a lack of sharpness. JPEGs with no post processing or editing will look better than RAW (because the camera has done the processing), but RAW with good editing and post processing will look better than the jpeg. RAW has more potential, but more work and time to tweak. Jpeg's are for speed and convenience. Live View has better auto focus accuracy in general, but wouldn't affect the final image.

04-13-2018, 01:57 PM - 1 Like	#14
Daniel Gamel Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 28 Original Poster	So it is normal to have to do some work in PS or LR to get the image to look like what I was shooting. That is good to know. I have an older version of Lightroom, but no skills in it. I imagine I have been very lucky in the past not having to do post processing. I have mainly had Sony point and shoot type cameras after I stopped shooting film. I will post some Raw files from a recent Grand Canyon trip. I will try to upload this evening or tomorrow. Thank you all again. There is a lot of knowledge to be gained here. I imagine most of this is user error.

04-13-2018, 02:25 PM	#15
maw Pentaxian Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Sassari (Italy) Posts: 1,118	Originally posted by Daniel Gamel I did not have SR off while on the tripod. I actually had the thought that tripod plus SR would mean even higher level of sharpness! I shoot RAW and JPEG. Assumed RAW would have better results because of more info captured. Didn't think that it would be a different look. I've also heard live view can produce better results. So much to learn about the demands of digital. Definitely more to it than my ME Super with a roll of Kodachrome. ---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:27 PM ---------- Is getting an exposure value from a light meter and grey card still a viable thing? ---------- Post added 04-13-18 at 02:28 PM ---------- Also, I generally shoot in AV mode with auto white balance. Hi Daniel, If you take pictures with several light sources of different Kelvin degrees, you should use multi-auto white balance. It was introduced with K3. Although white balance can be done later, I prefer to use Expo Disk or Color Checker Passport, you'll have fewer problems later, and later you can create more color profiles of your K3. Go to page 60 of the manual in 'Lens correction' you will find a rich menu, where you will find how to perform lens correction, including diffraction. A careful reading of the manual saves you a lot of hassle later.