[TerryL]

Hello Folks,
This Spring and Summer, I want to learn Landscape Photography using my very sturdy tripod, new 15-30, and K-1. I'm going out today to practice. I have turned of SR, set my shutter to 2 second delay, and changed my focus to back button focus so I can learn how to use hyper focal distance focusing. My questions are, does the shutter button still meter the subject while using back button focus? And, what metering method is recommend?
Thank you for your help.
Terry

[BarryE]

Hi Terry, personally I've never got the idea about back button focus, especially with your tripod set-up as focusing isn't going to be rushed, so you'll be taking your time using AF and LV (varying the focus pts) etc to check the focus. Similarly, never bothered with hyper-focus, as I prefer to think where I want the focus pt to be and adjust accordingly. High f number apertures in landscape photography, is a bad automatic response, in my opinion. Bracketing dof is helpful. I always, AF spot focus, then check.

I have experienced the 2 second delay as not always being sufficient, therefore I use the remote and count to five. It also helps as I flip the mirror and wait until the light/clouds are exactly where I want them (or as near as possible), then fire the shutter. Much more control.

And now to metering. The default averaging setting works fine, but, and it's a big but, I don't entirely trust it, so I bracket every shot. With the wide angle there will likely be big skies, these effect the metering significantly, thus bracketing becomes more helpful.

So I tend to use a slow, deliberate approach to composing on a tripod, where fine control, checking and bracketing are always key.

Enjoy yourself ...

[jatrax]

Hi Terry,
The shutter button turns on the meter at the half press, (just bump the shutter button a bit) and it stays on for the length of time set in the menu C-3 Meter Operating Time. After that time out you need to bump the shutter button again to turn the meter on again. I assume it uses battery power so they do not want it on all the time, just when you are using it.
Unless you know the differences ( which I suggest you study up on) stick with Matrix Metering. You should understand what the three modes do and be able to choose the best one for each scene but in general use Matrix.

---------- Post added 04-21-18 at 08:34 AM ----------

I've never got the idea about back button focus, especially with your tripod set-up as focusing isn't going to be rushed

BBF has nothing to with being rushed, rather it is useful because you only focus when you press the focus button not the shutter button. It separates the 'focusing' function from the 'shutter actuation" function. It removes the risk of your carefully set focus being ruined by the camera trying to autofocus when you finally get around to taking a picture.
Of course if you are manually focusing then it matters little as the AF should turned off.

[BarryE]

BBF has nothing to with being rushed, rather it is useful because you only focus when you press the focus button not the shutter button. It separates the 'focusing' function from the 'shutter actuation" function. It removes the risk of your carefully set focus being ruined by the camera trying to autofocus when you finally get around to taking a picture.
Of course if you are manually focusing then it matters little as the AF should turned off.

I thought someone would say that ...But, what's going to move and ruin the focus if you're locked down on a tripod, and taking time to set up the shot ? Any risk of movement and I flick to manual for that shot. Guess we all have our techniques ...

[baro-nite]

Shake reduction is disabled by default when you use the 2-second self-timer, so you might prefer to leave SR on, so you won't forget to do so when you're shooting hand-held.

Don't worry too much about getting the exposure just right -- shoot in raw format and you'll have enough dynamic range to handle most situations well enough with automatic exposure modes. For working with a tripod you might prefer Av mode (aperture priority) to give you that control over depth of field.

More important is to just get out there and shoot a lot. Subject matter, composition, and quality of light are what make landscape images interesting (or otherwise).

[Bob 256]

Hi Terry,

Usually for scenics on a tripod, I take my time and use liveview with manual focus and the LCD magnifier to critically focus. I also use delayed shutter like you mentioned, but sometimes use a small handheld remote to trip the shutter without touching the camera. If the scene is static with little motion, I use the electronic shutter. Not that I have anything against AF, I just like to do it old school and see how good the focus is on my subject of interest. Other times when I'm rushed, I use the optical VF and AF exclusively.

I also like the K-1 HDR feature and enjoy taking some shots using that setting with ADV HDR. Since I shoot DNG + JPEG, I can use the individual DNG HDR files later to tailor the HDR effects as desired with separate HDR software, but the JPEG rendition isn't too bad for in-camera HDR and I can print (with minor tweeking) and hand out those to folks who think they look great. I usually shoot at as low an ISO as is practical but don't go below 200.

Just so personal thoughts for you to ponder.

[TerryL]

Hi Terry, personally I've never got the idea about back button focus, especially with your tripod set-up as focusing isn't going to be rushed, so you'll be taking your time using AF and LV (varying the focus pts) etc to check the focus. Similarly, never bothered with hyper-focus, as I prefer to think where I want the focus pt to be and adjust accordingly. High f number apertures in landscape photography, is a bad automatic response, in my opinion. Bracketing dof is helpful. I always, AF spot focus, then check.

I have experienced the 2 second delay as not always being sufficient, therefore I use the remote and count to five. It also helps as I flip the mirror and wait until the light/clouds are exactly where I want them (or as near as possible), then fire the shutter. Much more control.

And now to metering. The default averaging setting works fine, but, and it's a big but, I don't entirely trust it, so I bracket every shot. With the wide angle there will likely be big skies, these effect the metering significantly, thus bracketing becomes more helpful.

So I tend to use a slow, deliberate approach to composing on a tripod, where fine control, checking and bracketing are always key.

Enjoy yourself ...

Hi Barry,
I saw a youtube video about a landscape photographer using back button focus and hyper focal distance in order to control the in focus dof. It seems like a good idea assuming you know how to calculate the hyper focal distance. Sounds like it won't be necessary if i'm stoping down enough . I'll get a remote and try your method. Sounds better than a 2 second delay. Thank you very much.
Terry

[mikeSF]

These are all great tips and it is certainly important to be comfortable with the technical aspects of the shot. I have nothing to add there.

When approaching landscape photography, the main difference between a snapshot and a thoughtful landscape image is composition. I would encourage you to practice placing elements in the frame including some foreground interest whenever possible. Getting in close to a subject is also useful. in time, you will begin to see how you affect the composition with focal length, depth of field, camera positioning, etc. Have fun!

[TerryL]

Hi Terry,
The shutter button turns on the meter at the half press, (just bump the shutter button a bit) and it stays on for the length of time set in the menu C-3 Meter Operating Time. After that time out you need to bump the shutter button again to turn the meter on again. I assume it uses battery power so they do not want it on all the time, just when you are using it.
Unless you know the differences ( which I suggest you study up on) stick with Matrix Metering. You should understand what the three modes do and be able to choose the best one for each scene but in general use Matrix.

---------- Post added 04-21-18 at 08:34 AM ----------


BBF has nothing to with being rushed, rather it is useful because you only focus when you press the focus button not the shutter button. It separates the 'focusing' function from the 'shutter actuation" function. It removes the risk of your carefully set focus being ruined by the camera trying to autofocus when you finally get around to taking a picture.
Of course if you are manually focusing then it matters little as the AF should turned off.

Thank you, jatrax. I will go into C3 and change the time, before going out today. I didn't realize I could do that. Also, I will Matrix metering. I normally use spot. I probably will end up manual focusing more than I realize. By the time I set up my massive tripod and ball head, I will certainly be taking my time. Why rush doing something you enjoy so much?
Terry

---------- Post added 04-21-18 at 09:47 AM ----------

Shake reduction is disabled by default when you use the 2-second self-timer, so you might prefer to leave SR on, so you won't forget to do so when you're shooting hand-held.

Don't worry too much about getting the exposure just right -- shoot in raw format and you'll have enough dynamic range to handle most situations well enough with automatic exposure modes. For working with a tripod you might prefer Av mode (aperture priority) to give you that control over depth of field.

More important is to just get out there and shoot a lot. Subject matter, composition, and quality of light are what make landscape images interesting (or otherwise).

Thank you, baro-nite. I didn't know that. I will turn SR back on, today. I just bought my K-1 in January, so I have a lot to learn. Where in NC do you live? I live in Suffolk, VA, and commuted to Ahoskie to work. Really go people in NC.
Terry

---------- Post added 04-21-18 at 09:56 AM ----------

Hi Terry,

Usually for scenics on a tripod, I take my time and use liveview with manual focus and the LCD magnifier to critically focus. I also use delayed shutter like you mentioned, but sometimes use a small handheld remote to trip the shutter without touching the camera. If the scene is static with little motion, I use the electronic shutter. Not that I have anything against AF, I just like to do it old school and see how good the focus is on my subject of interest. Other times when I'm rushed, I use the optical VF and AF exclusively.

I also like the K-1 HDR feature and enjoy taking some shots using that setting with ADV HDR. Since I shoot DNG + JPEG, I can use the individual DNG HDR files later to tailor the HDR effects as desired with separate HDR software, but the JPEG rendition isn't too bad for in-camera HDR and I can print (with minor tweeking) and hand out those to folks who think they look great. I usually shoot at as low an ISO as is practical but don't go below 200.

Just so personal thoughts for you to ponder.

Hi Bob,
PeterPentax suggested that I try HDR as well. I certainly plan on trying it. I assume it's in the manual, since I don't even know what it is, yet. So much to learn and enjoy. I have been shooting RAW for one month now. That's a whole new learning curve, and I will end up ruining a lot of shots during the process. That's ok, I'm sure most people did when starting.
Terry

---------- Post added 04-21-18 at 10:07 AM ----------

These are all great tips and it is certainly important to be comfortable with the technical aspects of the shot. I have nothing to add there.

When approaching landscape photography, the main difference between a snapshot and a thoughtful landscape image is composition. I would encourage you to practice placing elements in the frame including some foreground interest whenever possible. Getting in close to a subject is also useful. in time, you will begin to see how you affect the composition with focal length, depth of field, camera positioning, etc. Have fun!

Hi Mike,
I did learn, from this site, to include something in the foreground, and to get close. Just got my 15-30 last week, and I'm really going to enjoy using it. I have fractures in my back, so it's mostly for tripod use. I guess I overspent on my tripod and ball head, but I chose it with this lens in mind. Plus, I just enjoy using a nice one. For me, Photography has always been just for fun, and enjoy using nice equipment.
Terry

[jatrax]

I thought someone would say that ...But, what's going to move and ruin the focus if you're locked down on a tripod, and taking time to set up the shot ? Any risk of movement and I flick to manual for that shot.

And I thought you would say that. What is going to move is the camera auto-focus system. The point you miss is that BBF is not used if you are manually focusing. But anyone who uses AF and still has it connected to the shutter button risks ruining a carefully set up focus situation by carelessly touching the shutter button. Whirrr and the camera tries to focus again. It's not anything in the scene that is going to move, it is the camera AF system we want to disconnect from the act of taking the image. Manual focus shooters will have little use for BBF.

[BarryE]

And I thought you would say that. What is going to move is the camera auto-focus system. The point you miss is that BBF is not used if you are manually focusing. But anyone who uses AF and still has it connected to the shutter button risks ruining a carefully set up focus situation by carelessly touching the shutter button. Whirrr and the camera tries to focus again. It's not anything in the scene that is going to move, it is the camera AF system we want to disconnect from the act of taking the image. Manual focus shooters will have little use for BBF.

No doubt we both get to where we want, but whatever technique we use ... and I did not miss the point, just seeing it differently to you ...

[TerryL]

Hi Bob,
I read about and understand the HDR setting. I plan to use that, today. I've been struggling to get my metering correct, any way. My images seem to be a little overexposed. I've just started to learn more about metering in the K-1 so I can get proper and consistent exposures.
Terry

[jbinpg]

To remove any chance of shutter or mirror shock, you may wish to enable Electronic Shutter which only works with Live View.

[baro-nite]

Thank you, baro-nite. I didn't know that. I will turn SR back on, today. I just bought my K-1 in January, so I have a lot to learn. Where in NC do you live? I live in Suffolk, VA, and commuted to Ahoskie to work. Really go people in NC.

Some go, some not so go!

I live in Durham. Was just up along the VA Western Shore last weekend, beautiful country.

[TerryL]

To remove any chance of shutter or mirror shock, you may wish to enable Electronic Shutter which only works with Live View.

Thank you, jibing.
I have read a lot about that. But, I thought by using an extremely stable tripod and heavy lens like the 15-30 would solve that. No? I use LV a lot.
Terry

---------- Post added 04-21-18 at 01:45 PM ----------

Some go, some not so go!

I live in Durham. Was just up along the VA Western Shore last weekend, beautiful country.

I was shocked at how much drugs come in on the commercial fishing boats. Lots of abandoned farm houses and barns in NC. I plan on going back to find them, and to shoot.