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06-03-2018, 09:18 PM   #16
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Some quenstions ...
  • do you use color management on your system?
  • have you color calibrated your monitor and got a good device dependant monitor icc profile for your monitor?
  • does your software support the color management and does it use your monitor icc profile?
If a monitor doesn't show correct colors it doesn't make sense to edit images on your system.

Here's an image to check the monitor: www.jirvana.com/printer_tests/PrinterEvaluationImage_V002.zip



If this image looks good and realisitc in every respect than the monitor shouldn't be the problem.


Last edited by MarkJerling; 06-03-2018 at 11:51 PM.
06-03-2018, 11:39 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by acoufap Quote
Some quenstions ...
  • do you use color management on your system?
  • have you color calibrated your monitor and got a good device dependant monitor icc profile for your monitor?
  • does your software support the color management and does it use your monitor icc profile?
If a monitor doesn't show correct colors it doesn't make sense to edit images on your system.

Here's an image to check the monitor: www.jirvana.com/printer_tests/PrinterEvaluationImage_V002.zip



If this image looks good and realisitc in every respect than the monitor shouldn't be the problem.
Hello, I tried using that link several times and I get this message: Error 404 Not Found. Another possibility entered my little pea brain and that is if I were to upload images using the SD Card instead of the USB Cable. Might be worth a try. My apologies, your questions are over my head, so I do not know. What I do know is that when I tried to use the PC's Monitor Controls, I get the PADLOCK Image and cannot do anything. Many thanks for your efforts. Very much appreciated.

Tony
06-03-2018, 11:51 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tonytee Quote
Hello, I tried using that link several times and I get this message: Error 404 Not Found. Another possibility entered my little pea brain and that is if I were to upload images using the SD Card instead of the USB Cable. Might be worth a try. My apologies, your questions are over my head, so I do not know. What I do know is that when I tried to use the PC's Monitor Controls, I get the PADLOCK Image and cannot do anything. Many thanks for your efforts. Very much appreciated.

Tony
Try it now. I've fixed the link.
06-04-2018, 12:32 AM   #19
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The posted JPEG is improved even by just increasing its contrast. The EXIF data shows that it was captured in "Natural" for the Custom Image setting - changing to "Bright" would give a more punchy image. You could also experiment with the contrast and saturation parameters within the Custom Image menu; see pages 157-159 in the user manual. The EXIF also shows that the lens was the 55-300 at 190mm and f/5.6 - i.e. at (or close to) its widest open aperture; you might get a more contrasty image by setting f/8 or f/11 (which would also get more of the flower in focus).
Philip

06-04-2018, 04:41 AM   #20
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The point is not where it "looks better", but which of the two (or none of the above) representations is more accurate, otherwise you'll thing you are seeing a perfect picture only to be disappointed when you print it/share on the internet.

You should buy a profiler, even an used/old/cheap one like the Spyder 3 is ok, and create a profile for your monitor.
Then adjust your camera's monitor to match that.
Last step, adjust the jpeg settings in your camera to get an image you like.
06-04-2018, 06:52 AM   #21
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I think it looks fine as it is... the slight underexposure gives it a certain mood... and the colors are well, natural like the image setting wanted Adding just a little brightness and contrast in post should probably get it closer to what you wanted. I still think that you might want to try the reversal film setting for this kind of pictures, but be careful to only use it with natural light (it has a set white balance).
The images you take will never look the same in a 3 inch screen as they do on a larger screen or especially a print. I only rely on the camera screen to check exposure (via histogram) and composition. If I started shooting with just one prime, as I often tell myself I should, I think I could bypass the screen entirely.
06-04-2018, 08:43 AM   #22
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Have you considered shooting RAW and using Darktable or another of the free RAW processors. DT can handle many of the functions of LR and easily make adjustments to get the image that you like.

06-04-2018, 08:47 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by kernos Quote
Have you considered shooting RAW and using Darktable or another of the free RAW processors. DT can handle many of the functions of LR and easily make adjustments to get the image that you like.
I agree with this.
Start by shooting RAW+ which will always give you a JPEG like you get now, plus the RAW file that you can load into Daktable and see if you can come up with something better. Sometimes just the ability to change the ISO from RAW makes up for having to spend the time processing the picture. And Darktable is free and has a lot of free "styles" to get you started.
06-04-2018, 09:25 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by kernos Quote
Have you considered shooting RAW and using Darktable or another of the free RAW processors. DT can handle many of the functions of LR and easily make adjustments to get the image that you like.
No point in shooting RAW or JPEG if the OP doesn't even know which one of the different representations of his image are closer to reality.
Why wasting time to develop on an uncalibrated/unprofiled monitor?
06-04-2018, 12:13 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tonytee Quote
Hello, I tried using that link several times and I get this message: Error 404 Not Found. Another possibility entered my little pea brain and that is if I were to upload images using the SD Card instead of the USB Cable. Might be worth a try. My apologies, your questions are over my head, so I do not know. What I do know is that when I tried to use the PC's Monitor Controls, I get the PADLOCK Image and cannot do anything. Many thanks for your efforts. Very much appreciated.

Tony
@MarkJenkins - many thank's for fixing the link.
@Tonytee
Thanks for being honest. You seem to be a real novice in this area. Let me say if you want to understand this topic fully it is one of the hardest stuff in digital photography. Whole books are written about it. Depending on your background it may even be harder. But don't be afraid ... you don't need to understand every detail.

But some basics are important. So have a first look at what wikipedia says about Color Management (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_management).

Unfortunately I only own one book that offers a whole chapter on Color Management including Monitor Calibration and Profiling (Chapter 3). The book's main topic is Fine Art Printing for Photographers (https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Art-Printing-Photographers-Exhibition/dp/1937538...+photographers). You'll find a lot of good explained stuff about the whole post processing process up to the print.

If you're interested in the proverbial view beyond the horizon read this book. It will offer you a lot of new insights about different aspects. It's also available as an eBook. Unfortunately in english language only the old 3rd edition seems to be availlable. I own the german 4th edition and a new 5th edition is announced for June 11th 2018.

If you’d like to hear my advice: color calibrate your monitor. Don‘t start serious work on images without color calibrating your monitors!

Without color management on your computer you may correct the monitor weaknesses within all your images. They will look ok or good on your monitor. But as soon as you exchange your monitor you may see a disaster and have to re-edit thousands of images. Spend some time in knowledge and standardization/normalization using device dependent icc profiles!


By the way - does the image that I linked to looks good on your monitor? Do you want to bite into the strawberry because it looks that delicious? What's about the different skin tones. Does they look realistic? Can you distinguish the grayscale fields? - If not, your monitor may need some help.

Good luck!

P.s. It doesn't help (you), if other people see your image as a proper and perfect image on their maybe well color calibrated computer/monitor.

Last edited by acoufap; 06-04-2018 at 01:02 PM.
06-04-2018, 01:37 PM   #26
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Another good idea is to print your image on a good printer. If you have no interest in making prints, forget it. There is cost involved. I use Epson, but I don't go whole-hog for pigment inks and umpteen ink shades. Their 6-color (including black) Claria dye-based ink produces fine results. Avoid the sub-photo standard 4-color machines. But I use an older machine I bought at least 8 years ago, my second one by Epson. It is a dedicated printer, not including a scanner. Now, it seems, a machine of this type in smaller 8-1/2 " format is hard to find or of low quality. So Canon might offer something better now.

The idea is, viewing photos on a backlit device is never truly accurate as to picture quality- because it is backlit. You can compensate to some degree by reducing your screen contrast. Once you get used to how far off your backlit device really is, whether your camera's LCD or your computer, your eye will know and compensate for that fact so you will know what to expect, and can adjust your photos accurately. Remember- things will of course tend to look more crisp on a smaller screen, because the same image will be stretched out more on a larger screen.

I agree with the above advice to shoot mostly in the "Bright" mode, and "Natural" for high-contrast and people shots, but sometimes, if the people are looking rather pale, the warmth of the "Bright" mode might be more flattering.

It is also very important to set "Fine Sharpening" using your thumb dial, going into the "Custom Image" menus for both modes. Do not, however, set "Fine Sharpening" in the "Portrait" mode.

Last edited by mikesbike; 06-04-2018 at 01:58 PM.
06-04-2018, 05:05 PM - 1 Like   #27
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GrandPa and Grandson.


Here is a photo taken with Canon EOS Rebel T5 with Canon EF-S 55~250mm IS, II Lens.

EXIF; SS 1/200s, F/6.3, ISO 100, Manual Exposure Program, Used Sunpak External Flash with Multi-Segment Metering. Focal Length @ 60mm.

I am uploading this photo only to show that the PC Monitor displays very accurate color, tones and sharpness. My error was not taking into account the reflection on Grandpa's eyeglasses. Also, the white fringing on the boy's hairline. Otherwise I think it looks half way decent.

Thanks for viewing. This photo is straight out of camera.
Tony

Last edited by Tonytee; 06-04-2018 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Additional Information.
06-04-2018, 06:36 PM   #28
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The ultimate test for color balance to me are skin tones.
06-04-2018, 07:27 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alex645 Quote
The ultimate test for color balance to me are skin tones.

Okay, so what are your thoughts regarding this photo of Grandpa and Grandson? Thnx for your input.

Tony
06-04-2018, 07:32 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tonytee Quote
Okay, so what are your thoughts regarding this photo of Grandpa and Grandson? Thnx for your input.

Tony
My initial impression was that your color was spot on. Ultimately, I had to have your subjects in the room with me to make the final judgement, but at least on my Mac Retina screen set to Adobe RGB (1998) profile, it looks correctly balanced.
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