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08-28-2018, 08:12 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by agrolingua Quote
The mode setting on the dial often does not match what is on the LCD,
If the mode setting on the dial does not match the LCD display, then it's certainly mode dial failure.

QuoteOriginally posted by agrolingua Quote
Is it going to be one of those situations where the cost to get it sorted out is way more than the camera is worth?
Sadly, yes.

08-28-2018, 08:20 PM - 1 Like   #17
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OK. So, I did a quick search on Youtube. It seems that someone has a fix for everything. Naturally, someone had a similar issue with the dial. This is the link.

He suggests the issue is with an over-lubed wheel or dial. Does this seem remotely familiar? Or, are there other potential issues?


His solution is not very complex. The biggest hassle is keeping track of all the little screws. Not sure I am up for this. But, if this camera is toast, then what do I have to lose?
08-28-2018, 09:48 PM   #18
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Do you have access to a K-x manual?
If not, a copy is downloadable from here [PDF, 8MB]

If you haven't done so already, I suggest having a read of pages 148-153, just to make sure you aren't missing something re video.
08-29-2018, 07:50 AM   #19
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I do have the manual. The issue is that when I turn the dial I do not seem to end up in the mode the dial indicates in some cases.

Those of you that are familiar with this problem, is it as the youtube indicates--too much lube messing up the contacts? Is it an easy fix (by me or someone else)?

08-29-2018, 10:11 AM   #20
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If the settings don't change for some or all modes then there is a problem with the mode dial.

It could be dirty contacts (lube, corrosion, oxidation), wear or misalignment of the contacts. The mode dial is a slightly different animal than the eDials. You can see the large contact array on the circuit board for the Kr in the video but not the wiper contacts. You can try cleaning these but if the contacts are worn or the wipers are bent or misaligned cleaning will not fix the problem. If worn you need to replace the board/contacts. If misaligned it would be easier to replace rather than try to re-align by trial and error. If you're going to be messing around in the top area you should discharge the flash capacitor and disconnect the fragile strip connectors. The wires will have to be un-soldered. This will give you more room to work if you are doing anything complicated like trying to adjust the wipers. Extreme care must be taken to break any of the connectors - again they are very fragile.

See this thread on the K10D mode dial fix if you want to see what you are getting into:
Faulty k10d mode dial - PentaxForums.com

more specifically this post (but read the entire thread):
Faulty k10d mode dial - PentaxForums.com

Note: the poster ended up replacing the circuit board with the contact array.

Last edited by Not a Number; 08-29-2018 at 10:18 AM.
08-29-2018, 10:44 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Not a Number Quote
If the settings don't change for some or all modes then there is a problem with the mode dial.

It could be dirty contacts (lube, corrosion, oxidation), wear or misalignment of the contacts. The mode dial is a slightly different animal than the eDials. You can see the large contact array on the circuit board for the Kr in the video but not the wiper contacts. You can try cleaning these but if the contacts are worn or the wipers are bent or misaligned cleaning will not fix the problem. If worn you need to replace the board/contacts. If misaligned it would be easier to replace rather than try to re-align by trial and error. If you're going to be messing around in the top area you should discharge the flash capacitor and disconnect the fragile strip connectors. The wires will have to be un-soldered. This will give you more room to work if you are doing anything complicated like trying to adjust the wipers. Extreme care must be taken to break any of the connectors - again they are very fragile.

See this thread on the K10D mode dial fix if you want to see what you are getting into:
Faulty k10d mode dial - PentaxForums.com

more specifically this post (but read the entire thread):
Faulty k10d mode dial - PentaxForums.com

Note: the poster ended up replacing the circuit board with the contact array.
Thanks for telling me the difference about the eDials. As I do not have much to lose the video gave me the notion that it might be something to tinker with. Some small chance of success. But, the process you mention would most certainly leave me frustrated, if not angry. So, I don't think I will mess with it. Perhaps I can find a repair facility and see if they can give me an idea on the cost of a fix. I suspect it will be a lot more than the camera is worth. I really hate the idea that it looks like the camera is going to the trash. Perhaps someone would take it on ebay or this site.
08-29-2018, 08:27 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by agrolingua Quote
But, if this camera is toast, then what do I have to lose?
Exactly nothing!

08-29-2018, 11:07 PM - 2 Likes   #23
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Since the only value of my original K-x is in parts or training I thought I would have a look for you.

You will need some electrical contact cleaner.

First off, you only need to remove the top cover. See this link. Six screws including one in the battery compartment, but pop the flash before removing the battery.

Then either 3 or 4 screws (3 yellow plus the orange one for the AF switch if needed).

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3 screws will let you lift one side of the switch and spray in contact cleaner.

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If any of the contacts are bent or you feel the need for better access remove the 4th screw being very careful not to lose the AF button.

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This would allow you to re-bend the contacts or scrub the circuit 'board' with a q-tip (cotton bud) sprayed with contact cleaner if needed.
08-30-2018, 08:02 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by alfa75ts Quote
Since the only value of my original K-x is in parts or training I thought I would have a look for you.

You will need some electrical contact cleaner.

First off, you only need to remove the top cover. See this link. Six screws including one in the battery compartment, but pop the flash before removing the battery.

Then either 3 or 4 screws (3 yellow plus the orange one for the AF switch if needed).

Attachment 420815

3 screws will let you lift one side of the switch and spray in contact cleaner.

Attachment 420816

If any of the contacts are bent or you feel the need for better access remove the 4th screw being very careful not to lose the AF button.

Attachment 420817

This would allow you to re-bend the contacts or scrub the circuit 'board' with a q-tip (cotton bud) sprayed with contact cleaner if needed.

Thanks for the play-by-play with photos. I have not taken the top off. I gather the top is not free. Is it connected to the body with wires, etc.? How many wires are there? Any other kinds of connectors? Ribbons, etc.?

If opening it up and spraying a little cleaner is not too complicated it might be worth a try. Maybe a 50% chance of success.


I have not decided what I will do. There is a place who would take a look at it and gave me a prognosis/estimate. But, it is a little distance.
08-30-2018, 08:10 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by alfa75ts Quote
Since the only value of my original K-x is in parts or training I thought I would have a look for you..
Wow. That was really very nice of you. How kind. You rock!
08-30-2018, 10:02 AM   #26
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I concur.
08-30-2018, 01:49 PM - 1 Like   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by agrolingua Quote
Is it connected to the body with wires, etc.? How many wires are there?
Six coloured wires one side and a 'Ribbon" on the other.


With the camera flat on it's back, there should be enough slack to undo the three screws, lift up the edge of the switch and spray in the contact cleaner.

If you need to remove the ribbon, gently lift up the ribbon side of the cover/latch with a small screwdriver, knife or similar. It is hinged on the side away from the ribbon.
There is a small piece of double sided tape under the ribbon near the connector so it will need to be peeled up prior to pulling the ribbon out of the connector.
To re-connect, push the ribbon into the connector (all the way) and push the ribbon side of the cover down (with a finger or blunt object).

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If you need to remove the coloured wires, they will need to be de-soldered after documenting their positions (photos).

The ribbon is reasonably tough but if it tears (can happen if an edge is nicked) you have a scrap camera.
08-30-2018, 08:10 PM   #28
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It's super that you are taking the time and your camera to show me/us what to expect. The fragile wires and ribbon are a concern. It is so great to have photos, etc. so that you know what to expect. I have a tube of liquid Detoxit which should do a good job on the connections.


Maybe you could do a little Youtube on this. It seems to be not an uncommon problem and no one has done a video on it.
08-30-2018, 08:28 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by agrolingua Quote
The fragile wires and ribbon are a concern
Fragile is not the right word, but neither is robust. They are somewhere in between.

Video is not going to happen this K-x is already in many pieces as it sacrificed itself to save my Bigma when a tripod leg slipped.
08-30-2018, 08:30 PM   #30
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Just a quick question. How many screws to get the top off?
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