[kiwizz]

I've just upgraded from my trusty K-5 to a second hand K-3 (very good condition, looking at the body etc) and haven't yet had much time to stretch its legs. While further testing is required, from what I feel so far, it seems the shake reduction on the K-3 isn't working at all, or the focus is off, or both. I haven't had enough time yet to do detailed testing, but took some photos:

135mm 1/125 f4.5 ISO 200: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

135mm 1/50 f4.5 ISO 100: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

50mm 1/8 f4.5 ISO 100: Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

50mm 1/25 f4.5 ISO 100 : Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.

I can hear the shake reduction motor when in bulb mode with the shutter release depressed, so I'm guessing its a focus thing? I did a reset to start with and assume that the focus adjustment configuration is a per-lens setting (based on serials?).

Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Thank you.

[JohnX]

Try a few shots using a tripod, mirror up. Also, a few more shots using LV. Post them back here.

The K3 is in my experience more demanding due to it's improved sensor vs. the K5.

It could be AF fine tuning is needed, or reviewing your technique, or, yes, a fault with the camera. You'll get good advice here.

Are the lenses Pentax?

[kiwizz]

Hi John,

Pentax Lens (DA 50-135mm 2.8 sdm)

I'll give the tripod a go and a few live view this weekend.

Cheers!

[aslyfox]

if the OP wants to find out the shutter count and manufactured date of the K 3:

Check Your Camera's Shutter Count & Manufacture Date

Use this tool to check your camera's shutter count and find out when the camera was manufactured. Note that if you upload an image that has been processed by Photoshop, etc., it might not be usable as some of its EXIF data could have been stripped. To proceed, simply upload an unedited JPEG photo taken with your camera using the form below! Your files are not stored on our server after the EXIF data is read.


Read more at: Check Camera Shutter Count and Manufacture Date

[tokyoscape]

I remember people have this problem when K3 just came out. Try use faster shutter speed. It needs a bit of getting used to. The sensor is packed with more pixel. Need to be very steady when using slower shutter speed.

[UncleVanya]

Crank up ISO and shoot with a higher shutter speed to compare. If those are out of focus it will suggest that the problem isn't the sr system. That's where I would start.

[dubyam]

I've been struggling with my K-3 after upgrading from the K-30. I now have a K-5 as a backup body (rather than the K-30) and find the 5 is easier to shoot "in focus" for me than the 3. It's frustrating, for sure. I'm trying to remember to keep the shutter speed up and the aperture at a good spot for the various lenses I'm using. I can get things pretty good, but when I crop to full size, my edges and textures are soft, or I've got ISO up around 6400 and I start seeing noise. I'm shooting a lot of songbirds at the feeder in my back yard, so they're not moving a lot. Maybe one out of 15-20 images is good, and none are great, and that's even with the shutter speed turned up to 320 or 400 or above. I had some good shots today of a mockingbird preening himself after a bath, but it overexposed a bit on the white breast feathers, due to some direct sunlight peeping through clouds.

It's been very frustrating, to say the least, but I'm determined to figure out how to get good images with this K-3.

[kiwizz]

Hey dubyam,

You have described the same issues I feel I have. I think it will take a little while to adjust. With the K5 I was comfortable shooting ISO100-400 on a cloudy day, whereas with the K3, I found that I needed to be between 400-800 to get the shutter speed high enough to get photos that weren't blurred. Hopefully with time I can improve technique (steadier hands?) and get the ISO back down to around 100.

[Riggomatic]

On your 3rd picture, the area in focus looks like the radius at the back of the seat, on the left hand side.

If that wasn't your intended focus point, then I'd go down the path of AF fine adjust.

Looking at the ladder picture, I'd say you are front focused with that lens. The letters on the
Yellow box look to be in focus.


Just for fun...
On your Arduino project, pick up a socket for your chip. Solder the leads to the socket, and when you are done prototyping, you'll have the socket for the next invention.
You won't burn the opamp or 555 chip up that way either 😀