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01-06-2019, 03:09 PM   #31

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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
Good advice. Don't take a very cold camera directly into your lovely warm house.
Thank you.

01-06-2019, 03:21 PM - 1 Like   #32
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First thing I get for any camera I purchase, is a protective LCD screen protector.

Here: Camera Lcd Screen Protector | B&H Photo Video

They really help keeping scratches off the screen! On my K3, I have one for the top LCD, and also for the back.
01-06-2019, 05:30 PM   #33

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I have long used protective filters- on most of my lenses, but not all. I have had 2 occasions over the last 30+ years where this paid off. In both cases, the camera swung unexpectedly and the lens banged into a very hard surface. In the oldest case, the filter broke and the lens was completely undamaged. I simply removed the broken filter, and replace it. In the 2nd case, about 10 years ago, I was using my original DA 55-300mm lens I think on my K200D body, when another such contact broke the filter, and even bent the filter's edge, which damaged the filter's threads to the extent I was unable to remove the filter frame, just the broken glass. I just kept using the lens without any filter. Eventually I gave it away with my K-r camera and kit lens. I replaced that lens with the DA HD 55-300mm WR version.

BTW the lens cap was on in both cases.

If you choose to use a protective filter, and with your lens I think it a good idea, I recommend getting a high quality one. Get a multi-coated filter, or better yet a super multi coated. This will make it least likely to introduce any deficits of its own into the performance of your lens. A super multicoated UV anti-haze filter will do fine, and will not introduce any coloration or light loss into your lens. Do not put the filter on tightly! just barely enough to be on- very gently. Those filter threads can be very grabby! Such filters are certainly worth having under potentially harmful conditions like blowing sand, as others said- air contamination, or even spraying salt water air! Such can erode your valuable coatings.

You can always remove all filters when you want to get extra picky about only having your lens's own glass in use.

There are 2 other filters most commonly used for common circumstances. In both cases, go for multicoated, of course- one is a circular polarizer, the other a 1.5- 2-stop graduated neutral density filter. Both are rotational filters, that is once you put them on, they have an outer ring that rotates separately so you can adjust their effect. Unique to Pentax, you will notice that your supplied lens hood has a removable "window" at the bottom, so when using such a filter you can reach in to rotate it. The first, the polarizing filter, can be used to cut through reflections, and can be used at certain angles to the sun to control blueness of the sky. It has a price in terms of reducing the amount of incoming light, so you may have to adjust ISO upward to get the aperture range or shutter speed you need. The 2nd is to deliberate reduce incoming light from part of your scene. For example, if a good part of your scene is in shadow, but with a bright blue sky behind it, you can rotate the filter to compensate so in getting a good exposure for the shaded foreground, you will not blow out the background. Pretty good for getting some scenes with the moon included too.

As to storage, I always have one lens or another on my camera bodies, unless I am taking a spare body without a lens on it for the sake of room, in which case I use a body cap. I never store any camera or lens in a water-proof or plastic case or bag, since this can trap moisture, which is conducive to mould. I've never had any trouble when using regular non-waterproof fabric cases. I store these in drawers or cabinets that are dry and not air-tight.

I believe in using care and efficiency when and where removing or changing lenses, so dust and other contaminants have less chance to enter the camera. First, loosen the rear cap of the lens you are about to exchange with one on the camera, then remove the one on the camera, put the rear cap on it, and immediately install the replacement lens.

Last edited by mikesbike; 01-07-2019 at 12:10 PM.
01-06-2019, 07:51 PM   #34
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(1) first the easy one-there are lots of aftermarket batteries for all digital cameras on amazon. Some are actually better designed than the original ones and some are not worth even putting into your camera. Some can be purchased a few at a time with an included charger. Pricing can be 1/2 or 1/4 the price of the originals. One simply has to read the customer comments to figure out which ones to stay away from. The better ones usually have a return policy at N/C. Never had a bad one yet.

(2) problems with lenses as they get older....dust inside...usually does not effect the final photo but can affect the price if selling. Some lenses have problems with the glue-"balsam" separation...usually from older lenses....but some report it also on newer digital lenses. And last fungal growth-humidity + darkness. No one knows if a filter will prevent dust from entering the lens due to where air can enter the lens. Balsam separation has not been shown to be preventable. Fungal growth is a killer. The belief is that if dust gets into the lens, it carries fungal spores, and with the right moisture level and darkness it can grow...and then spread to the rest of the camera equipment. It was recommended in the past to reduce the chance of fungal growth....clean the outside of the camera and lens....keep it away from dust.....control the humidity ...and do not keep it in the dark for long period of times. Up until digital cameras, we were taught to flash the lenses both on and off the camera body with a flash unit set to full power. Once your lens or body has fungal growth on it, it is not worth much in resale due to the effect on your photos and you do not want a chance it will spread to other equipment. So prevention...+/- filter?? use of dehydrators-chemical packs or electronic cabinets, and store camera body and lenses not in the dark for long periods of time.

(3) filter debate... not enough lifetime that this will ever be settled one way or the other. A good read even if it is on an unpopular website
Should You Use a UV Filter on Your Lens?: Digital Photography Review (see comment section for a lively discussion)

Biggest problem with these discussions is (a) how many superficial scratches does it take to degrade a photo, and how deep do they have to be?? Only thing that is known is that it will affect resale value of the lens. Over the years I have only had 2 filters crack while on the camera lens but the lens was intact after the filter was removed. Did it prevent a bad scratch or severe damage to the front of the lens-unknown. Does it prevent scratches to the lens or damage to the AR surface- all I can say is that all my lenses after many years are damage free after filter is removed. Are there differences in filter quality? Absolutely. Quality of the glass material, the AR quality, and whether it was designed for a digital lens or not. It is interesting that most discussions regarding filters and how they degrade photo quality usually never state any info about the brand of filter or its qualities. Even using a cheap variable ND filter and a better quality one can result in 2 entirely different photo results.

So these debates will go on forever. But at least if one is a newbie to photography or a digital DSLR, then a camera store should discuss extra batteries, lens cleaning kits, and possible filter use. Unfortunately finding these types of stores and sales people are getting harder to find...especially when many DSLR sales are now on the internet.

01-06-2019, 09:24 PM - 1 Like   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by krazny Quote
Don't store it in the bag when you're not using it. (and yeah, I'd get a bag for carrying )
My camera is in its bag unless I'm using it.
I still occasionally use the Super Program that I purchased in 1983, and it still works fine, so the 35 years it has spent in a bag seems not to have hurt it.
01-06-2019, 10:59 PM   #36

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QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Neeton Quote
Just bought k-70 with 18-135mm lens after taking some advice from here.

Never owned a DSLR before and want to know how to keep it in tip top condition?

Would you recommend a filter for the lens?

Tools to keep dust off sensor?

Should I always leave the lens on?

Any other advise?

I wouldn't recommend a filter, instead mount the lens hood on it with the petals out (how it would normally be mounted if shooting). This will keep objects away from the front glass element of the lens.

When I was a beginner, I took the internet advice to use UV filters on all my lenses. That was a bit expensive, and over time I noticed the Image quality was very slightly reduced. It makes sense -- the more objects light has to pass through the worse off you are. Remove the unnecessary junk like UV filters on the front of a DSLR and you're better off in my opinion.

That said, if you live in a particularly dusty and windy area then maybe I'd mount a UV filter. But I don't and I don't have an issue with scratches on my lens elements.

But if stacking multiple lenses in the bag, then reverse the lens hood and put the lens caps on to avoid scratches.

I'd recommend a Giottos rocket blower. Please ensure you don't actually touch the tip of the blower to the lens though.

I'd leave a lens on the camera, preferably your most used lens. That way it is ready to go.

Plus dust on the front of the lens is less likely to cause image quality issues than dust on the rear element of the lens. By keeping the lens on the camera, you're reducing the potential for dust to settle on thee rear element.

Outside of your condition questions, basic beginner tips:

Ensure you have a memory card either in the camera or at the ready in the bag. I've taken all my gear to a location only to realize the camera was empty of memory cards!

Learn the exposure triangle or triad -- lots of info online, but I'd recommend taking some of that info to your camera and playing with settings until it clicks with you on a more fundamental level. You don't need to memorize that a shot was taken at 1/60s f/8 at ISO800, because light is pretty dynamic and no two shots may necessarily be the same. But it is nice to really understand that you need roughly a particular shutter speed to freeze certain motion, or an aperture setting to get a certain depth of field, how different ISO values alter the image quality etc.

Make sure to take hundreds of awful images as you learn your photographic tools!
01-07-2019, 07:16 PM - 1 Like   #37
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Forget filters, lens cap is your friend. Leave battery connected, it saves wear and tear on the internal battery that keeps settings from getting reset.
01-07-2019, 07:53 PM - 1 Like   #38
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A filter is like a minor damage insurance policy. It won't stop a mishandled lens from being damaged, but it may prevent inadvertent knocks to the front of it from causing significant damage to the front element of the lens. The best filters will not produce a perceivable difference in image quality. Cheap ones are going to mess up with your results so much they are not worth putting on your lens.

01-08-2019, 06:12 PM   #39

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QuoteOriginally posted by Ash Quote
A filter is like a minor damage insurance policy. It won't stop a mishandled lens from being damaged, but it may prevent inadvertent knocks to the front of it from causing significant damage to the front element of the lens. The best filters will not produce a perceivable difference in image quality. Cheap ones are going to mess up with your results so much they are not worth putting on your lens.
I agree completely. The way I handle it, with some of my best-built lenses, especially those metal-bodied having a metal lens hood and even some with recessed front elements, I do not use a filter, unless facing threatening conditions. The hood does provide good protection. The Limited primes tend to be among those of this type. They even have push-on metal caps that go over the front element and filter threads. With these I am still particular as to the conditions I use them in.

But with consumer lenses, even though well-built, but with plastic parts including hoods, I do employ very high-quality protective filters. I can always remove the filter if I wish for special shots.
01-08-2019, 07:29 PM - 1 Like   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
The hood does provide good protection. The Limited primes tend to be among those of this type. They even have push-on metal caps that go over the front element and filter threads.
The DA 40 Limited is bomb-proof.
01-08-2019, 07:52 PM   #41
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Skip the UV unless you really need it and go clear with high light transmittance coatings like the 007M Nano coating Mainenative was referencing earlier. Those are the B and W filters I put on any lens worth more than 100. USD I am not putting a 40 dollar filter on my 10 dollar Rikenon 50mm
01-10-2019, 12:29 AM   #42
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These metal lens caps that go over the front of the lens and filter thread sound good. Anyone got a amazon link to them?
01-10-2019, 01:22 PM   #43

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QuoteOriginally posted by Dan Neeton Quote
These metal lens caps that go over the front of the lens and filter thread sound good. Anyone got a amazon link to them?
I've never seen such sold generically for lenses in general. Those for the Pentax Limited lens series are custom-designed to each lens model. One reason for this is, although the normal cap is sized to fit the filter thread size, because it fits into the lens opening, going around the outside of the lens housing would still be different with different lens model designs, even though having the same filter thread size.

The cap that comes with your lens is of substantial plastic and does provide a decent degree of protection, It is of the usual squeeze and grab design, fitting into the lens opening. But of course, it is not as protective as a metal one that fits over the entire end of the lens would be.

Then there are situations where the elements are involved, such as shooting at the beach on a windy day, with some possible blowing sand and/or salt water to deal with.

When you get your outfit, I'm sure we will hear from you shortly thereafter. Any questions or comments, we are here. Any time. In fact, we are looking forward to hearing of your impressions and experiences. Welcome to becoming a fellow Pentax shooter!

Last edited by mikesbike; 01-10-2019 at 05:23 PM.

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