[UncleVanya]

If you use manual flash in macro or even omd style "auto" the PC cord connection can provide basic flash triggering without the hot shoe. Using brackets you can mount a pc cord attached dumb basic flash hot shoe to fire the flash. The only loss is hss and p-TTL.

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 01:14 PM ----------

Here's an example dumb hit shoe adapter that could be added to a flash bracket cold shoe.

Holga Hot Shoe to PC Adapter 301120 B&H Photo Video

[pentasonic49]

I have just removed the thin spring shim cover from the hotshoe of my K3ii and the same part from my K100D, they look identical. I think they are held on by screws, not riveted. The MZS is the same, not a suitable candidate for a transplant because of it's value. The Z1P, PZ1 is different, the screws are in slightly different positions. A spares/repairs digital body with an undamaged hotshoe would make a suitable donor, with undamaged screws also.

[Pufferchung]

Something like this. You would need to connect a flash cable from the flash to the camera. But you could glue the broken piece back in place and use a hot shoe connector without worrying if the glue gave way that your flash would hit the deck.
Alternatively you could possibly connect the flash to the X-sync socket on the side of the camera and not use the hotshoe at all ? I am not sure what functionality you would lose using the latter method.

I didn't know I could connect the flash to the x-sync socket, thank you very much for your advice, TIL. I thought I could just to get a wireless flash trigger, use a bracket for the AF360FGZII flash, then use black electrical tape to secure the hotshoe+ transmitter on top of camera? Will that work? Because my flash still fire when I placed the flash w/hotshoe on top of my camera....(it just won't stay though)

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 02:03 PM ----------

I have just removed the thin spring shim cover from the hotshoe of my K3ii and the same part from my K100D, they look identical. I think they are held on by screws, not riveted. The MZS is the same, not a suitable candidate for a transplant because of it's value. The Z1P, PZ1 is different, the screws are in slightly different positions. A spares/repairs digital body with an undamaged hotshoe would make a suitable donor, with undamaged screws also.

You are right, the hotshoe is not riveted, it was held on screws. The hotshoe looks fine, it needs new screws.

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 02:12 PM ----------

If you use manual flash in macro or even omd style "auto" the PC cord connection can provide basic flash triggering without the hot shoe. Using brackets you can mount a pc cord attached dumb basic flash hot shoe to fire the flash. The only loss is hss and p-TTL.

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 01:14 PM ----------

Here's an example dumb hit shoe adapter that could be added to a flash bracket cold shoe.

Holga Hot Shoe to PC Adapter 301120 B&H Photo Video

That's very interesting! Thank . you so much for the link and picture, it's very helpful. I might look into that or just suck it up pay $300 to precision camera to get 5 new screws...my AF360FGZII flash is too good for manual flash only, the p-TTL is kinda important for night time insect macro photography.

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 02:17 PM ----------

Something like this. You would need to connect a flash cable from the flash to the camera. But you could glue the broken piece back in place and use a hot shoe connector without worrying if the glue gave way that your flash would hit the deck.
Alternatively you could possibly connect the flash to the X-sync socket on the side of the camera and not use the hotshoe at all ? I am not sure what functionality you would lose using the latter method.

Thank you very much! I don't know much about photography equipments and that picture really help! I will just get something like that and secured the connector+hotshoe with black electrical tape!

[Pufferchung]

From looking at my K-3 it looks like the hot shoe is an integral part of the top deck cover which will need to be replaced. Gluing the piece back in place will only be a short term fix at best. If you decided to glue it back apply the glue sparingly as too much glue might affect the flash to hot shoe connection. You will need to use a small bar clamp to hold the part in place till the glue is thoroughly dry also make sure there is no residual glue as this will affect how the flash mounts and also how the contact pins make contact.

If you send it for repair, from what I can tell based on my K-3, the whole top deck cover probably will need to be replaced at a minimum since the part looks to be bradded in place an not screwed on.

Glue and a flash bracket and cable will be your quick and dirty repair and it may last if you do the repair carefully and you are careful attaching the cable to the hotshoe.

Another alternative is to buy a used good condition K-3II and use the one you have for non flash activities.

Good luck and try to be very careful with how you handle your camera in the future.

Thank you so much for your advice! The reason why I hit my camera w/flash on a tree because I saw this on a trail last night....

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[stevebrot]

The only loss is hss and p-TTL.

For the owner of a AF360FGII, that is a big loss.


Steve

[UncleVanya]

For the owner of a AF360FGII, that is a big loss.


Steve

But his expressed main concern was Macro where I contend there is not a huge value to those features. So maybe his flash is over featured - he could sell it off and buy something simple to replace it if that's his main use. Over time he may refine what he needs and not need the 360.

[stevebrot]

You are right, the hotshoe is not riveted, it was held on screws. The hotshoe looks fine, it needs new screws.

It also looks like the body needs the old screws extracted. That is the greater challenge and probably more expensive than getting a replacement hot shoe assembly.


Steve

[UncleVanya]

It also looks like the body needs the old screws extracted. That is the greater challenge and probably more expensive than getting a replacement hot shoe assembly.


Steve

But the screws are up and not flush so a small vice grip may be able to grab them and turn them out slowly one at a time.

[Not a Number]

Looking at the K7 parts list (download from the pentax-hack.info website) there are two parts to the bracket that came off. The part with the springs should be able to be separated from the main frame. There is one 1.7×2.5mm screw and 3 "hot shoe retainer screws" that screw into the frame from the inside of the camera. There is also another frame on the inside of the camera. As I said before the threads on the frame are likely stripped.

Part numbers
hot shoe: A322
hot shoe spring: A323
hot shoe ground plate: A330
retainer screws (3): 27830-A348
(1) 1.7×2.5mm screw

Dimes will get you dollars that the A322 part hasn't changed in 10-15 years. The full part number for the K-7 frame is 77240-A322. For the K-3ii the part number would be 77980-A322. Try USCamera.com. Note: removing the top plate will probably involve quite a bit of soldering/un-soldering.


(note: SX-W appears to be the weather seal that should be applied.)

I guess this answers the question if the hot shoe is weather sealed

[UncleVanya]

Looking at the K7 parts list (download from the pentax-hack.info website) there are two parts to the bracket that came off. The part with the springs should be able to be separated from the main frame. There is one 1.7×2.5mm screw and 3 "hot shoe retainer screws" that screw into the frame from the inside of the camera. There is also another frame on the inside of the camera. As I said before the threads on the frame are likely stripped.

Why if they are applied from the inside would the frame have stripped threads? Maybe I'm not following what you are calling the frame? The part that came off is likely stripped I agree. The part still on the camera should be fine - if the screws originate inside (which kills my idea for removing them). Honestly the simple answer may indeed be JB Weld and done.

[Not a Number]

Why if they are applied from the inside would the frame have stripped threads? Maybe I'm not following what you are calling the frame? The part that came off is likely stripped I agree. The part still on the camera should be fine - if the screws originate inside (which kills my idea for removing them). Honestly the simple answer may indeed be JB Weld and done.

Part A322 (hot shoe frame) has threaded holes in it. Normally when you tear screws out without unscrewing them you'll either strip the treads in the hole or on the screws or break the screws or all of the above. All the structural screws on every Pentax body I've worked have been steel (stick to my magnetized JIS drivers). The hot shoe on every Pentax body I have is non-ferrous (magnets not attracted to it) - probably aluminum. Aluminum is more likely to strip than steel.

[builttospill]

Another vote for epoxy, available at any hardware store. There are a few different types of epoxy. Unless you're skilled at things like this avoid the steel putty epoxy, as this is electrically conductive and may act as a jumper between different posts in the hot shoe. If you're concerned about making a mess with superglue, don't get the liquid kind. Get gel or even better, putty epoxy. Rough up the surface on the bottom of the hot shoe, mix the epoxy together and place the putty where in needs to go. Work quickly, as this dries pretty fast.

[stevebrot]

As I said before the threads on the frame are likely stripped.

I see! It is also likely that the hot shoe spring clip is on the forest floor somewhere.


Steve

(Will have to remember that U.S. Camera has these parts lists and diagrams.)

[Larrymc]

Thank you so much for your advice! The reason why I hit my camera w/flash on a tree because I saw this on a trail last night....

Nice vicious little Copper head one of the snakes with a nice un-provoked bite record! You did kill the rascal didn't you??

[Pufferchung]

Nice vicious little Copper head one of the snakes with a nice un-provoked bite record! You did kill the rascal didn't you??

No, I didn’t...it was just trying to find something to eat. I always leave snake alone. Killing them may do more harm than good.😊

Michelle

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 08:48 PM ----------

I see! It is also likely that the hot shoe spring clip is on the forest floor somewhere.


Steve

(Will have to remember that U.S. Camera has these parts lists and diagrams.)

That diagram posted by “Not a Number” is very helpful. I just checked my camera, only two things are missing, one is CNL -D1.7x2.5 screw (broken I assume) and A330 hot shoe ground plate.

Michelle

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 08:50 PM ----------

I see! It is also likely that the hot shoe spring clip is on the forest floor somewhere.


Steve

(Will have to remember that U.S. Camera has these parts lists and diagrams.)

Surprisingly, it’s still there! But the ground plate A330 is on the forest floor somewhere....☹️

Michelle

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 08:54 PM ----------

Another vote for epoxy, available at any hardware store. There are a few different types of epoxy. Unless you're skilled at things like this avoid the steel putty epoxy, as this is electrically conductive and may act as a jumper between different posts in the hot shoe. If you're concerned about making a mess with superglue, don't get the liquid kind. Get gel or even better, putty epoxy. Rough up the surface on the bottom of the hot shoe, mix the epoxy together and place the putty where in needs to go. Work quickly, as this dries pretty fast.

That’s very helpful! Thank you so much for your advice! Every time when I go to hardware store, I often overwhelmed by so many different types of glue, and too shy to ask for help. That’s why I often avoid using glue...especially liquid superglue.

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 09:03 PM ----------

Part A322 (hot shoe frame) has threaded holes in it. Normally when you tear screws out without unscrewing them you'll either strip the treads in the hole or on the screws or break the screws or all of the above. All the structural screws on every Pentax body I've worked have been steel (stick to my magnetized JIS drivers). The hot shoe on every Pentax body I have is non-ferrous (magnets not attracted to it) - probably aluminum. Aluminum is more likely to strip than steel.

“Not A Number”
You are correct, I just checked the 3 screws with treads (U5), they are still on the camera, and one still have some “copper colored” particles left on the screw. However, the one(1.7x2.5 mm) retainer screw is broken, and A330 hot shoe ground plate is missing too. By the way, that camera diagram is very helpful, thank you very much for sharing!

Michelle

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 09:08 PM ----------

But his expressed main concern was Macro where I contend there is not a huge value to those features. So maybe his flash is over featured - he could sell it off and buy something simple to replace it if that's his main use. Over time he may refine what he needs and not need the 360.

I love my 360! That’s my birthday gift and I am not selling any of my pentax equipment...(even when they are broken)

---------- Post added 04-22-19 at 09:18 PM ----------

It also looks like the body needs the old screws extracted. That is the greater challenge and probably more expensive than getting a replacement hot shoe assembly.


Steve

You are right Steve, after re-exam my camera very carefully with the Diagram, I don’t think I have the skill and tools to fix the broken hot shoes. I probably have to take it back to the precision camera in Austin (they are the only authorized Pentax dealer here). I will take this accident as a learning experience. Once it’s fixed, I will get a bracket and flash trigger to protect my equipments.
By the time I save enough money, maybe I will get the new pentax APS-C DSLR camera (maybe in 2020) to replace my k3ii.

Michelle