[rogerstg]

Personally, I like the idea of starting out with a 50mm, something that closely resembles what the human eye sees.

That's not true with apsc, only full frame. I think we are assuming the 18-135 is favorably priced at a fraction of it's normal price as part of the k-70 package. As such, it's an obvious choice. If you want something similar to a 50mm on full frame, get a 35mm for the K-70. The DA 35mm ƒ/2.4 can be had new for ~$100. It's a great little lens; referred to the "plastic fantastic."

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Last edited by rogerstg; 07-12-2019 at 06:18 AM.

[normhead]

The comparison table at the start of the lens shootout article provided by @aslyfox lists the f1.8 as being APS-C only.

full-size sensor would definitely be an upgrade I would look towards in the future. The comparison table at the start of the lens shootout article provided by @aslyfox lists the f1.8 as being APS-C only.

The FA 1.7 is a closer match if you can find one second hand. But the 1.4 is good too. Personally, I got a DA*55 1.4 at a good price and it's been excellent. I'm not sure its listed as a full frame lens but I put a shorter lens hood on mine and it works well with my K-1. Since I tend to use it for narrow DoF image, it rarely gets used on my K-3 however. I'm not sure I have single image taken with it on the K-3.

And I preferred the FA 50 1.7 to the 35 2.4. What is a standard lens and what isn't is pretty much irrelevant, I have to like the way the lens rendered, and I never liked the DA 35 2.4. The 40 XS however was awesome and there are many 40 options and the 43 ltd.

The big advantage to me of the 55 is it's WR and SDM. Water and dust seals and quiet operation. And it's a tweener lens, not as small as the 50 1.4 and all of the older glass, but more corrected and much smoother looking images, but lighter and more portable than the DFA* 50 1.4. I tend to think of it as lens that gives me the best of both configurations, heavy and corrected, and light uncorrected. The 55 excels at neither, it sits safely in the middle, and give you 95% of what either configuration has to offer.

Take a look at these pictures, done with the D-FA 50mm f/2.8, designated a "macro" lens, but not limited to close-ups:

Post your K-1 pictures! - PentaxForums.com

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/190-pentax-k-1/314413-post-your-k-1-pict...ml#post4680277

[UncleVanya]

Honestly I strongly disagree with anyone yelling you to use a full frame lens as future proofing. A 24-70 will give up a a lot of wider angle coverage and be quite a bit heavier than needed. The lens is great on a k1 if the weight doesn't put you off but it is a beast compared to the 18-135. It is optically superior and faster, but in my opinion the k70 isn't the right place to mount that lens.

As for future proofing, seek lenses that work as intended now, sell what you don't need in the future. There is a time value of money ignored in buying more than you need now. Just rationalize purchases and don't buy too much without planning your future needs.

[MrB1]

Uncle - I totally agree with your Post #34 with regard to the new full-frame monster lenses, although some of the older compact film-era FF models are quite ergonomic, perform well on APS-C and, of course, might be worth having ready for a future FF body, e.g. the F 28 and F 50, or the new FA 35. However, in my view it is still no contest - the 18-135 would be by far the best lens to purchase first for the K-70 simply because it is so versatile.

Philip

[tpa77l3]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've ordered the 18-135 bundle. Figured I was making it more complicated than it needed to be trying to factor in a FF option in the future. I've also got a lot to learn about lenses before I go any further.

If you wish to practise with one focal length for a few days or weeks, set the zoom to that length and temporarily fix it at that position with insulation tape.

This was going to be my next question, thanks for preempting it!

[Des]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've ordered the 18-135 bundle. Figured I was making it more complicated than it needed to be trying to factor in a FF option in the future. I've also got a lot to learn about lenses before I go any further.

Good decisions all round. Enjoy it.

I'd endorse and reiterate the great advice above and add some points (it's based on our experiences, good and bad!). Here are 10 tips:
1. The first thing to do is to read the camera manual and Yvon Bourque's e-book for the K-70 thoroughly. You'll be amazed at how capable it is.
2. Work with the 18-135 for a while before jumping in and getting more lenses. When you are new to photography, there's a lot to learn and it takes a little time to find out where your preferences lie. Try different things (landscapes, portraits, close-ups, street, architecture, abstracts, flowers, insects, cars, whatever) and you might be surprised. Once you've tried different things, you'll have a better idea of what more specialized lenses to look for next (e.g. ultra-wide, long telephoto, portrait, street, macro, etc). For me, when I had a wide-ranging zoom I found myself shooting disproportionately at one end or the other, so I went for an ultrawide and a telephoto lens. For others, it might be a wide-aperture lens for low-light and short depth of field (DOF), or a fast wide lens for astrophotography, or a fisheye, or a macro, or a pancake lens. You just can't know yet!
3. Good gear helps you make the most of your skills, but skills matter far more than gear. Learning about photography is like any other skill. Read widely (there's a huge body of information on this site alone) and practise, practise, practise. The more you put into it, the more you get out of it.
4. Try to understand the exposure triangle (the interaction of exposure time, aperture and ISO and the effects of changing each variable). It is the basis for all photography. A good intro here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/55-photography-articles/126203-stops-shu...nsitivity.html A book by Bryan Peterson, "Understanding exposure", is highly recommended by PF members.
5. Learn to hold the camera and how to steady yourself for handheld shots. It sounds really basic, but most of us keep coming back to it. Great article here: Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - In-Depth Articles
6. Use a tripod whenever you can. If you haven't got a remote shutter release, user the self-timer. (It will switch off shake reduction automatically, by default.) You can even use this with bracketing. If the subject isn't moving, try pixel shift.
7. Learn how to get focus right for the subject. Scrutinize all your shots for accuracy of focus and learn from the mistakes. (There will be plenty.) Calibrate the autofocus with each AF lens: Fixing front and back focus
8. Learn about hyperfocal distance and about DOF. Use a DOF calculator until you can do it from sight.
9. Shoot RAW+jpg. Post-processing RAW files with good software makes a big difference. If you have information overload, just go with the jpgs and defer learning about software for a while, but save the RAW files for processing later. (My biggest photographic regret is not shooting RAW sooner.)
10. Flash can be a great tool, but if you are already overloaded I'd suggest putting that off for a while too. (When you are ready, follow the course at Strobist 101. And look at Niel van Niekerk's videos on YouTube.)

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Last edited by Des; 07-18-2019 at 03:20 PM.

[jimr-pdx]

I'm very happy with the 18-50, love the retracted size similar to a 50/1.4 prime. If you want compact overall size but dSLR image quality this does the job nicely.
Every person values features differently but I'll take (small +WR +silent focus) over other options like fast aperture or more range which =bulky, which =stays-in-closet.

oops - never mind, enjoy your 18-135

[mikesbike]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've ordered the 18-135 bundle. Figured I was making it more complicated than it needed to be trying to factor in a FF option in the future. I've also got a lot to learn about lenses before I go any further.



This was going to be my next question, thanks for preempting it!

Great choice. Being new to photography, you are about to have great fun learning. And you will have excellent tools to do so. Do not be discouraged if your initial efforts are below your expectations. This is a common experience. That said, your camera can function very well in a fully automatic exposure mode where the camera will select your aperture, your shutter speed, and even the ISO sensitivity. For this, I recommend avoiding having your mode dial set to the green "AUTO" position, where the camera may be set upon arrival. That mode will disallow many control features, or access to most adjustments. Instead, use the "P" Program mode.

If you've ever shot film, the ISO setting is similar to selecting the type of film sensitivity you will be using- such as a film "speed" of ASA 200, 400, or 800. But with digital you don't have to change to a different roll of film, you can switch anytime at will, depending on the lighting conditions, and your type of subject. Even when using the "P" mode, you can leave the ISO set on auto so the camera will alter the setting according to the lighting as the camera's meter reads, or you can easily switch over to user-select and choose the ISO sensitivity value you wish to use.

When your camera arrives, please do get back in touch. I for one will have some suggestions to get you started, along with some basic info regarding using the outstanding controllability of a camera like the K-70 to get the effects you are after, and in dealing with types of subject matter and conditions.

[tpa77l3]

Great advice Des - many thanks.

I'll be back in contact for sure Mike. I’ll get reading the manual and e-guide in between now and the camera arriving and give you guys a shout after learning the basics.

[aslyfox]

don't be a stranger

have fun

[gatorguy]

Good decisions all round. Enjoy it.
10. Flash can be a great tool, but if you are already overloaded I'd suggest putting that off for a while too. (When you are ready, follow the course at Strobist 101. And look at Niel van Niekerk's videos on YouTube.)

What a good resource! Thanks.

Some of the Strobist info plays right into a shoot I'm doing this coming weekend. Ain't PentaxForums a great place to learn and share?

[Des]

Ain't PentaxForums a great place to learn and share?

Amen. I was referred to Strobist from here too.

The van Niekerk videos are interesting too. Especially his ones about diffusing on-camera flash - he shows how simply bouncing a flash can provide better diffusion than any of the flash attachments. He also shows how good the results can be from directional bounced flash using his home-made "Black Foamie Thing". Nigel, our local strobist guru, has illustrated that here: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/flashes--a-flag-and-domestic-portraits-58025/p-0 and here: Indoor Exposure Mixing - PentaxForums.com

Should also mention Nigel's excellent guide as a resource: Comprehensive Pentax Flash Guide - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

[UncleVanya]

Good decisions all round. Enjoy it.

I'd endorse and reiterate the great advice above and add some points (it's based on our experiences, good and bad!). Here are 10 tips:
1. The first thing to do is to read the camera manual and Yvon Bourque's e-book for the K-70 thoroughly. You'll be amazed at how capable it is.
2. Work with the 18-135 for a while before jumping in and getting more lenses. When you are new to photography, there's a lot to learn and it takes a little time to find out where your preferences lie. Try different things (landscapes, portraits, close-ups, street, architecture, abstracts, flowers, insects, cars, whatever) and you might be surprised. Once you've tried different things, you'll have a better idea of what more specialized lenses to look for next (e.g. ultra-wide, long telephoto, portrait, street, macro, etc). For me, when I had a wide-ranging zoom I found myself shooting disproportionately at one end or the other, so I went for an ultrawide and a telephoto lens. For others, it might be a wide-aperture lens for low-light and short DOF, or a fast wide lens for astrophotography, or a fisheye, or a macro, or a pancake lens. You just can't know yet!
3. Good gear helps you make the most of your skills, but skills matter far more than gear. Learning about photography is like any other skill. Read widely and practise, practise, practise. The more you put into it, the more you get out of it.
4. Try to understand the exposure triangle (the interaction of exposure time, aperture and ISO and the effects of changing each variable). It is the basis for all photography.
5. Learn to hold the camera and how to steady yourself for handheld shots. It sounds really basic, but most of us keep coming back to it. Great article here: Making the Most of Long Exposure Handhelds - Introduction - In-Depth Articles
6. Use a tripod whenever you can. If you haven't got a remote shutter release, user the self-timer. (It will switch off shake reduction automatically, by default.) You can even use this with bracketing. If the subject isn't moving, try pixel shift.
7. Learn how to get focus right for the subject. Scrutinize all your shots for accuracy of focus and learn from the mistakes. (There will be plenty.) Calibrate the autofocus with each lens: Fixing front and back focus
8. Learn about hyperfocal distance and about depth of field (DOF). Use a DOF calculator until you can do it from sight.
9. Shoot RAW+jpg. Post-processing RAW files with good software makes a big difference. If you have information overload, just go with the jpgs and defer learning about software for a while, but save the RAW files for processing later. (My biggest photographic regret is not shooting RAW sooner.)
10. Flash can be a great tool, but if you are already overloaded I'd suggest putting that off for a while too. (When you are ready, follow the course at Strobist 101. And look at Niel van Niekerk's videos on YouTube.)

This deserves to be a sticky! LOL. Great advice.

[mikesbike]

Very good insights have been given here.

I've had good luck with my new lenses in not needing calibration. Lets see- one I remember was a mismatch when I first got my K-5, with my FA 43mm Limited, which had been fine with other camera bodies over a number of years. I'm trying to think of one to two others.

One of my first tests with a new lens- putting it on my currently-used camera bodies, arranging some solid smaller objects in a group behind and in front of each other, at pretty close distances. Then selecting center-only spot AF to focus on each object at wide open aperture and taking a shot. If each object I focus on comes out in sharp focus, while those behind or in front are not, I know the AF is on target, so I do no further testing. It is fast and simple.

This result has been verified in the field in actual use.

I would also suggest when new to photography, for a good while just shoot highest-quality JPEG images. With the proper camera adjustments, a camera with a fine JPEG producing processor (the K-70 is one) will deliver very sharp results. Resolution is really not at issue here. Shooting in RAW, if processed well, has the potential to provide maximum dynamic range in gradation of colors and in highlight or shadow detail, especially in higher contrast situations. By waiting on getting into RAW processing, the new photographer can concentrate on learning technique. Such as when to use which shooting mode and for what purpose. The relationship between aperture and shutter speed, and how to control these and all other factors involved, and how these relate to the subject matter and to the focal length of the lens in use, etc. Not to mention composition and subject emphasis choice in a scene.

JPEG + RAW can be used, but that does take up a lot of storage room. A compromise can be to use that just in a situation of very special merit where there is high contrast, and it might be an image which will be saved as a special one and could been in need of extensive improvement through post process, which could then be addressed at a later time.