Tamron 70-200 f2.8 IF macro - sharpness or aberration issue

mctaveck · 11-05-2019, 03:30 PM

Hi all,

unfortunately still problem with this lens. After some years with no issue I recognize something strange: I shoot several daily landscapes , all at 200mm. When I develop the PEF file i discovered massive and strange issues at the corner :. details are stretched like I was using a fish eye. The problem is, with impressive evidence at f2.8, in the center even. Attached you can see different f shoot of the building in front of my house (40 meters) and the image where everything start.
All the previous images were fine , let's say months ago; no issue with other lenses; no changes trying AF adjustment.

in the landscape please check the pole high in the right handside , in the building see the white bars.

Any ideas ? Repair the lens? Some other test ?

thanks a lot in advance for the help

Danilo

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

View Picture EXIF

**sergysergy** · 11-05-2019, 04:37 PM

Hi Danilo. I have not owned the Tamron but it is supposed to be a sharp lens so I feel there is something wrong with your copy. I would guess decentering given that one of the sides is much weaker than the other.

mctaveck · 11-05-2019, 05:14 PM

Originally posted by sergysergy

Hi Danilo. I have not owned the Tamron but it is supposed to be a sharp lens so I feel there is something wrong with your copy. I would guess decentering given that one of the sides is much weaker than the other.

And it was ! So you think it's a problem with the glasses; if so ... just the repair shop sadly.

Thanks

mctaveck · 11-07-2019, 05:36 AM

Hi all, i have been asked for 220€. (240USd). Do you mate suggest repair or... Sell It someway and go for 55-300 PLM?

Penview52 · 11-07-2019, 10:24 AM

Originally posted by mctaveck

Hi all, i have been asked for 220€. (240USd). Do you mate suggest repair or... Sell It someway and go for 55-300 PLM?

Repair will not fix the problem. Keep it. Try again with manual focusing with fine tuning and use other 3 metering modes for testing. If the result is really bad, there is haze build up in the lens- expose lens to sunlight but be careful not to damage the lens.

mctaveck · 11-07-2019, 11:31 AM

Originally posted by Penview52

Repair will not fix the problem. Keep it. Try again with manual focusing with fine tuning and use other 3 metering modes for testing. If the result is really bad, there is haze build up in the lens- expose lens to sunlight but be careful not to damage the lens.

really thanks! I try different exposures / focusing method all along the lenght and the aperture and, unless f11 or closer, the problem Is there. I try to look thru the Lens against a light but i did not see haze or fungus. But i'll do what you are suggesting. Thanks

Penview52 · 11-07-2019, 04:33 PM

Impression of the photos: From F2.8 to F6.3 the photo is bad, From F11 to F20 is acceptable. Aperture priority is not only the bases of testing that the lens is bad. Explore P, Scn, and Auto mode if it makes the difference.

Its Y I shoot Pentax · 11-07-2019, 05:01 PM

Originally posted by Penview52

Impression of the photos: From F2.8 to F6.3 the photo is bad, From F11 to F20 is acceptable. Aperture priority is not only the bases of testing that the lens is bad. Explore P, Scn, and Auto mode if it makes the difference.

I would see if you could try another copy. There is something off on the lens. about the only other variable is looking at how the lens shoots at different focal lengths.

Penview52 · 11-08-2019, 10:25 AM

Originally posted by Its Y I shoot Pentax

I would see if you could try another copy. There is something off on the lens. about the only other variable is looking at how the lens shoots at different focal lengths.

I can imagine that the lens is only set at " A " position. There is no on or off button.
The original poster can answer that.

**mikesbike** · 11-08-2019, 01:31 PM

It is possible the lens has been defective right from the time you got it, but have not noticed until now. When shooting at a smaller aperture, in this case as small as f/20, the increased depth-of-field (DOF) renders much more in the frame to be sharper, which hides the problem. When shooting at wider apertures like f/2.8 the lack of sharpness on the left side shows up- that is if your camera is evenly at right angle to the building on both the camera's right and left side, that is- this is not an angled shot. This result as shown suggests a decentered lens.

Here's another way to test for this: Use a tripod, set SR to "off". Use center-only spot AF. Shoot again at 200mm, and set at f/2.8 aperture. Find a somewhat distant solid subject having well-defined edges and some well-defined detail. It should be well within the frame, so it appears on the small size within and not at all filling the frame. Now, using your spot AF, carefully achieve accurate sharp focus with the object in the center. Then carefully switch the camera (and lens?) to MF so as not to disturb focus. Take a shot to see if you've got sharp focus with the object in the center of the frame. If so, re-orient your camera on the tripod (panning, etc), taking care not to disturb the lens's focus, placing the object near each edge of the frame, right, left, top, bottom, even near each corner, and do a shot at each position, leaving focus set to MF. If there is a clearly noticeable discrepancy in lack of sharpness at any edge over the other edges, this indicates a decentered lens.

mctaveck · 11-09-2019, 02:44 AM

Originally posted by Penview52

Impression of the photos: From F2.8 to F6.3 the photo is bad, From F11 to F20 is acceptable. Aperture priority is not only the bases of testing that the lens is bad. Explore P, Scn, and Auto mode if it makes the difference.

How can make a difference once P, or SCN or TAV gives the same three exposures factors (Time, ISO and aperture) then AV mode? AUTO is generating JPG so it's adding software process that could mask the defect
Thanks

---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 02:46 AM ----------

Originally posted by Its Y I shoot Pentax

I would see if you could try another copy. There is something off on the lens. about the only other variable is looking at how the lens shoots at different focal lengths.

Unfortunately at different focal lenghts the problem is still the same and, more important, I check old photos I did , at f2.8, in the past and there was no such a massive jam.

Thanks
Danilo

---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 02:53 AM ----------

Originally posted by mikesbike

It is possible the lens has been defective right from the time you got it, but have not noticed until now. When shooting at a smaller aperture, in this case as small as f/20, the increased depth-of-field (DOF) renders much more in the frame to be sharper, which hides the problem. When shooting at wider apertures like f/2.8 the lack of sharpness on the left side shows up- that is if your camera is evenly at right angle to the building on both the camera's right and left side, that is- this is not an angled shot. This result as shown suggests a decentered lens.

Here's another way to test for this: Use a tripod, set SR to "off". Use center-only spot AF. Shoot again at 200mm, and set at f/2.8 aperture. Find a somewhat distant solid subject having well-defined edges and some well-defined detail. It should be well within the frame, so it appears on the small size within and not at all filling the frame. Now, using your spot AF, carefully achieve accurate sharp focus with the object in the center. Then carefully switch the camera (and lens?) to MF so as not to disturb focus. Take a shot to see if you've got sharp focus with the object in the center of the frame. If so, re-orient your camera on the tripod (panning, etc), taking care not to disturb the lens's focus, placing the object near each edge of the frame, right, left, top, bottom, even near each corner, and do a shot at each position, leaving focus set to MF. If there is a clearly noticeable discrepancy in lack of sharpness at any edge over the other edges, this indicates a decentered lens.

I did it . And the problem is exactly that one. I did not try to put the object on the top and on the bottom of the frame but I can try again. 220€ to repair it is not too much generally speaking but too much for me and for the use I do
Thanks
(I'll try, btw )

Penview52 · 11-09-2019, 07:18 AM

"...How can make a difference once P, or SCN or TAV gives the same three exposures factors (Time, ISO and aperture) then AV mode? AUTO is generating JPG so it's adding software process that could mask the defect "

If different speed,ISO,F stop is used in P, Scn, Tv, at different time and the result is bad, this shows the lens is bad. However photo shows with F11 to F20 is acceptable means that a certain DoF is acceptable and not decentered as others impression is.
Yes captured image in auto mode will reflect the defect of the lens.
You have not mentioned/tried the metering - all, center, spot in any mode this will make difference in sharpness/blurriness of captured image.
Maybe lens is not weather resistant and in the long run there is build up of moisture inside the lens that can not be seen by our eyes, maybe this is the cause of why photo taken during early morning is not sharp. Repairing will end only in cleaning and no assurance of solving the defect. Photo enthusiast will not right away give up what is the cause of " failure " of the gear. Nothing is personal man.

**mikesbike** · 11-11-2019, 02:39 PM

Originally posted by mctaveck

I did it . And the problem is exactly that one. I did not try to put the object on the top and on the bottom of the frame but I can try again. 220€ to repair it is not too much generally speaking but too much for me and for the use I do
Thanks
(I'll tr

You might try contacting Tamron to see if they would be of help. Send them the above and other test images, showing ok results at small apertures and not good at wide open apertures on the left side. State that you've always handled the lens with care. It is correctable, and likely a manufacturing defect- so they might do something for you. This lens is one of there professional-grade products, which also may help your cause.

mctaveck · 11-12-2019, 06:49 AM

Originally posted by mikesbike

You might try contacting Tamron to see if they would be of help. Send them the above and other test images, showing ok results at small apertures and not good at wide open apertures on the left side. State that you've always handled the lens with care. It is correctable, and likely a manufacturing defect- so they might do something for you. This lens is one of there professional-grade products, which also may help your cause.

I did, actually. They - Tamron official repair office - ask for 220€ . It Is not said they Will repair It for that Money, maybe they Will discover a more expensive issue. That's what they said by phone, they call me After I sent an email with the picture attached
Thanks

mctaveck · 11-12-2019, 02:25 PM

Originally posted by mikesbike

(...) using your spot AF, carefully achieve accurate sharp focus with the object in the center. Then carefully switch the camera (and lens?) to MF so as not to disturb focus. Take a shot to see if you've got sharp focus with the object in the center of the frame. If so, re-orient your camera on the tripod (panning, etc), taking care not to disturb the lens's focus, placing the object near each edge of the frame, right, left, top, bottom, even near each corner, and do a shot at each position, leaving focus set to MF. If there is a clearly noticeable discrepancy in lack of sharpness at any edge over the other edges, this indicates a decentered lens.

Done ! I cannot clearily see big difference between center and the other images :. picture are bottom, center, left, righ, top
Thanks

11-08-2019, 01:31 PM	#10
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,558	It is possible the lens has been defective right from the time you got it, but have not noticed until now. When shooting at a smaller aperture, in this case as small as f/20, the increased depth-of-field (DOF) renders much more in the frame to be sharper, which hides the problem. When shooting at wider apertures like f/2.8 the lack of sharpness on the left side shows up- that is if your camera is evenly at right angle to the building on both the camera's right and left side, that is- this is not an angled shot. This result as shown suggests a decentered lens. Here's another way to test for this: Use a tripod, set SR to "off". Use center-only spot AF. Shoot again at 200mm, and set at f/2.8 aperture. Find a somewhat distant solid subject having well-defined edges and some well-defined detail. It should be well within the frame, so it appears on the small size within and not at all filling the frame. Now, using your spot AF, carefully achieve accurate sharp focus with the object in the center. Then carefully switch the camera (and lens?) to MF so as not to disturb focus. Take a shot to see if you've got sharp focus with the object in the center of the frame. If so, re-orient your camera on the tripod (panning, etc), taking care not to disturb the lens's focus, placing the object near each edge of the frame, right, left, top, bottom, even near each corner, and do a shot at each position, leaving focus set to MF. If there is a clearly noticeable discrepancy in lack of sharpness at any edge over the other edges, this indicates a decentered lens. Last edited by mikesbike; 11-08-2019 at 02:09 PM.

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11-05-2019, 04:37 PM	#2
sergysergy Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,175	Hi Danilo. I have not owned the Tamron but it is supposed to be a sharp lens so I feel there is something wrong with your copy. I would guess decentering given that one of the sides is much weaker than the other.

11-05-2019, 05:14 PM	#3
mctaveck Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 165 Original Poster	Originally posted by sergysergy Hi Danilo. I have not owned the Tamron but it is supposed to be a sharp lens so I feel there is something wrong with your copy. I would guess decentering given that one of the sides is much weaker than the other. And it was ! So you think it's a problem with the glasses; if so ... just the repair shop sadly. Thanks

11-07-2019, 05:36 AM	#4
mctaveck Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 165 Original Poster	Hi all, i have been asked for 220€. (240USd). Do you mate suggest repair or... Sell It someway and go for 55-300 PLM?

11-07-2019, 10:24 AM	#5
Penview52 Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Photos: Albums Posts: 327	Originally posted by mctaveck Hi all, i have been asked for 220€. (240USd). Do you mate suggest repair or... Sell It someway and go for 55-300 PLM? Repair will not fix the problem. Keep it. Try again with manual focusing with fine tuning and use other 3 metering modes for testing. If the result is really bad, there is haze build up in the lens- expose lens to sunlight but be careful not to damage the lens.

11-07-2019, 11:31 AM	#6
mctaveck Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 165 Original Poster	Originally posted by Penview52 Repair will not fix the problem. Keep it. Try again with manual focusing with fine tuning and use other 3 metering modes for testing. If the result is really bad, there is haze build up in the lens- expose lens to sunlight but be careful not to damage the lens. really thanks! I try different exposures / focusing method all along the lenght and the aperture and, unless f11 or closer, the problem Is there. I try to look thru the Lens against a light but i did not see haze or fungus. But i'll do what you are suggesting. Thanks

11-07-2019, 04:33 PM	#7
Penview52 Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Photos: Albums Posts: 327	Impression of the photos: From F2.8 to F6.3 the photo is bad, From F11 to F20 is acceptable. Aperture priority is not only the bases of testing that the lens is bad. Explore P, Scn, and Auto mode if it makes the difference.

11-07-2019, 05:01 PM	#8
Its Y I shoot Pentax Forum Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Posts: 71	Originally posted by Penview52 Impression of the photos: From F2.8 to F6.3 the photo is bad, From F11 to F20 is acceptable. Aperture priority is not only the bases of testing that the lens is bad. Explore P, Scn, and Auto mode if it makes the difference. I would see if you could try another copy. There is something off on the lens. about the only other variable is looking at how the lens shoots at different focal lengths.

11-08-2019, 10:25 AM	#9
Penview52 Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Photos: Albums Posts: 327	Originally posted by Its Y I shoot Pentax I would see if you could try another copy. There is something off on the lens. about the only other variable is looking at how the lens shoots at different focal lengths. I can imagine that the lens is only set at " A " position. There is no on or off button. The original poster can answer that.

11-09-2019, 02:44 AM	#11
mctaveck Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 165 Original Poster	Originally posted by Penview52 Impression of the photos: From F2.8 to F6.3 the photo is bad, From F11 to F20 is acceptable. Aperture priority is not only the bases of testing that the lens is bad. Explore P, Scn, and Auto mode if it makes the difference. How can make a difference once P, or SCN or TAV gives the same three exposures factors (Time, ISO and aperture) then AV mode? AUTO is generating JPG so it's adding software process that could mask the defect Thanks ---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 02:46 AM ---------- Originally posted by Its Y I shoot Pentax I would see if you could try another copy. There is something off on the lens. about the only other variable is looking at how the lens shoots at different focal lengths. Unfortunately at different focal lenghts the problem is still the same and, more important, I check old photos I did , at f2.8, in the past and there was no such a massive jam. Thanks Danilo ---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 02:53 AM ---------- Originally posted by mikesbike It is possible the lens has been defective right from the time you got it, but have not noticed until now. When shooting at a smaller aperture, in this case as small as f/20, the increased depth-of-field (DOF) renders much more in the frame to be sharper, which hides the problem. When shooting at wider apertures like f/2.8 the lack of sharpness on the left side shows up- that is if your camera is evenly at right angle to the building on both the camera's right and left side, that is- this is not an angled shot. This result as shown suggests a decentered lens. Here's another way to test for this: Use a tripod, set SR to "off". Use center-only spot AF. Shoot again at 200mm, and set at f/2.8 aperture. Find a somewhat distant solid subject having well-defined edges and some well-defined detail. It should be well within the frame, so it appears on the small size within and not at all filling the frame. Now, using your spot AF, carefully achieve accurate sharp focus with the object in the center. Then carefully switch the camera (and lens?) to MF so as not to disturb focus. Take a shot to see if you've got sharp focus with the object in the center of the frame. If so, re-orient your camera on the tripod (panning, etc), taking care not to disturb the lens's focus, placing the object near each edge of the frame, right, left, top, bottom, even near each corner, and do a shot at each position, leaving focus set to MF. If there is a clearly noticeable discrepancy in lack of sharpness at any edge over the other edges, this indicates a decentered lens. I did it . And the problem is exactly that one. I did not try to put the object on the top and on the bottom of the frame but I can try again. 220€ to repair it is not too much generally speaking but too much for me and for the use I do Thanks (I'll try, btw )

11-09-2019, 07:18 AM	#12
Penview52 Veteran Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Photos: Albums Posts: 327	"...How can make a difference once P, or SCN or TAV gives the same three exposures factors (Time, ISO and aperture) then AV mode? AUTO is generating JPG so it's adding software process that could mask the defect " If different speed,ISO,F stop is used in P, Scn, Tv, at different time and the result is bad, this shows the lens is bad. However photo shows with F11 to F20 is acceptable means that a certain DoF is acceptable and not decentered as others impression is. Yes captured image in auto mode will reflect the defect of the lens. You have not mentioned/tried the metering - all, center, spot in any mode this will make difference in sharpness/blurriness of captured image. Maybe lens is not weather resistant and in the long run there is build up of moisture inside the lens that can not be seen by our eyes, maybe this is the cause of why photo taken during early morning is not sharp. Repairing will end only in cleaning and no assurance of solving the defect. Photo enthusiast will not right away give up what is the cause of " failure " of the gear. Nothing is personal man.

11-11-2019, 02:39 PM	#13
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,558	Originally posted by mctaveck I did it . And the problem is exactly that one. I did not try to put the object on the top and on the bottom of the frame but I can try again. 220€ to repair it is not too much generally speaking but too much for me and for the use I do Thanks (I'll tr You might try contacting Tamron to see if they would be of help. Send them the above and other test images, showing ok results at small apertures and not good at wide open apertures on the left side. State that you've always handled the lens with care. It is correctable, and likely a manufacturing defect- so they might do something for you. This lens is one of there professional-grade products, which also may help your cause.

11-12-2019, 06:49 AM	#14
mctaveck Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2017 Posts: 165 Original Poster	Originally posted by mikesbike You might try contacting Tamron to see if they would be of help. Send them the above and other test images, showing ok results at small apertures and not good at wide open apertures on the left side. State that you've always handled the lens with care. It is correctable, and likely a manufacturing defect- so they might do something for you. This lens is one of there professional-grade products, which also may help your cause. I did, actually. They - Tamron official repair office - ask for 220€ . It Is not said they Will repair It for that Money, maybe they Will discover a more expensive issue. That's what they said by phone, they call me After I sent an email with the picture attached Thanks