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11-09-2019, 08:51 AM   #1
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TT560 and Manual Use

All,

I feel rather silly, but I'm having difficulty getting my TT560 (Neewer TT560 Manual Flash 10003635 B&H Photo Video) to activate when I'm using it on manual mode. I have set it to "master" and turned on all the flash settings on my camera. No dice.

I got this recently - https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-studio-flash-kit/8441755.p?skuId=8441755 - and on "auto" mode, the flash flashes, the strobes go off, and everything is massively overexposed (even with both flashes turned down to minimal). I'd like to set it to manual so I can adjust my ISO, etc. But when I set it to manual, the shoe flash never fires.

I've read the Pentax manual, but no dice. I recently got an AF-330FTZ, which I may try soon, but I'm still researching voltages.

Thanks for any guidance!

11-09-2019, 09:38 AM - 1 Like   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by jawats Quote
I feel rather silly, but I'm having difficulty getting my TT560 (Neewer TT560 Manual Flash 10003635 B&H Photo Video) to activate when I'm using it on manual mode. I have set it to "master" and turned on all the flash settings on my camera. No dice.
What shutter speed are you using ? You need 1/180 or slower.

---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 05:01 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by jawats Quote
I got this recently - https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-studio-flash-kit/8441755.p?skuId=8441755 - and on "auto" mode, the flash flashes, the strobes go off, and everything is massively overexposed (even with both flashes turned down to minimal). I'd like to set it to manual so I can adjust my ISO, etc. But when I set it to manual, the shoe flash never fires.
This is a dumb slave set up. I don't mean that rudely i mean that the slaves fire when they detect the master flash has fired and they put out their own flash at a pre-set power setting. "Dumb" just refers to the fact that there is no evaluation taking place between flash and camera.

So your camera needs to be in Manual exposure mode or X sync. Any other mode will have your camera select an exposure for the ambient light ..... and then you take the picture your master and slaves both fire as well and you have overexposure.
You will need to use a shutter speed less than your sync speed, so 1/180 or slower. Without a flash-meter to determine your aperture you will just have to use trial and error and the histogram. Remember that the parameters that will affect the flash exposure of your subject are aperture and ISO. Shutter speed will have no effect on the flash exposure, only on the ambient exposure.

Good luck

Last edited by pschlute; 11-09-2019 at 10:08 AM.
11-09-2019, 10:37 AM - 1 Like   #3
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Avoid the af-330ftz it does not offer any modes that work well with modern digital cameras. The TTL type isn't compatible and it lacks a thyristor auto mode.
11-09-2019, 11:44 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
What shutter speed are you using ? You need 1/180 or slower.

---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 05:01 PM ----------



This is a dumb slave set up. I don't mean that rudely i mean that the slaves fire when they detect the master flash has fired and they put out their own flash at a pre-set power setting. "Dumb" just refers to the fact that there is no evaluation taking place between flash and camera.

So your camera needs to be in Manual exposure mode or X sync. Any other mode will have your camera select an exposure for the ambient light ..... and then you take the picture your master and slaves both fire as well and you have overexposure.
You will need to use a shutter speed less than your sync speed, so 1/180 or slower. Without a flash-meter to determine your aperture you will just have to use trial and error and the histogram. Remember that the parameters that will affect the flash exposure of your subject are aperture and ISO. Shutter speed will have no effect on the flash exposure, only on the ambient exposure.

Good luck
Thank you for the advice!

So, there are small, round, PC sync cable jacks. Can they connect to a sync device of some sort? Is such a thing even necessary? I ask because, while these are triggered by an on-camera flash, many of the videos I'm watching recommend NOT having light from the front of the camera, particularly when taking "Rembrandt" type photos.

---------- Post added 11-09-19 at 11:44 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Avoid the af-330ftz it does not offer any modes that work well with modern digital cameras. The TTL type isn't compatible and it lacks a thyristor auto mode.
Thank you. I shall avoid it!

11-09-2019, 12:31 PM - 1 Like   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by jawats Quote
So, there are small, round, PC sync cable jacks. Can they connect to a sync device of some sort? Is such a thing even necessary?
No idea. I dont use cable
11-09-2019, 03:40 PM - 1 Like   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by jawats Quote
I ask because, while these are triggered by an on-camera flash, many of the videos I'm watching recommend NOT having light from the front of the camera, particularly when taking "Rembrandt" type photos.
Yes and that is good advice. There are two ways around this.....

1. have the on-camera flash emit a low power output/with a diffuser/pointed not at the subject.

2. If you really want to get into lighting styles like Rembrandt or Hollywood lighting you need to get a more sophisticated lighting kit. You can get flash units that allow the on camera flash to act as controller rather than master (ie it triggers but does not add to the light for the capture). Or use radio triggers that allow you to trigger from the camera without having a flash mounted.

Sorry but while your existing set-up is good value for a starter kit it does have limitations.
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