[cristianmiu]

Thank you Roger,

I admit that I like bright and coloured photos... I try to improve the quality of my photos. Looking back with couple of years and now, is clearly an improvement. Unfortunately I don't have very much time for this passion... Couple of hours in a week...and because is just a hobby I try to invest as little as possible... I make small steps.
Honestly before pentax I was using Nikon D40x, D80 and D90. Most of the photos was simple point and click... when I got my first pentax (kx) I was very unsatisfied by full auto mode
Over time we became friends and here I am 4years later and still using pentax.

I admit I don't like the blueish photos, I don't like that I need to edit every single photo for a decent result.
I also admit that nikon image processor does things much better than pentax (jpeg vs jpeg)... an have much brighten photos... the entire system works better... but, I choose pentax. Is something else and if you understand it and learn how to work perfectly with it, you will got some great results.

Price vs quality from my opinion pentax is no.1. Also you got the advantage with old lenses that are a real bargain...

After I bought the sigma 70-300 i said that's the colour match that i like.
Now i would like to buy a sigma lens to replace my 16-50.
I was looking at 17-50 and 17-70 hopping that will achieve the same accurate warm tones as my 70-300.


Later edit: I also hate the AF system... driving me crazy sometimes.

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Last edited by cristianmiu; 12-11-2019 at 12:03 PM.

[rogerstg]

I don't like that I need to edit every single photo for a decent result

If you feel adept at selecting the appropriate aperture, ISO and shutter speed, you can use your camera's Custom Image settings for JPG finishing (Portrait, Landscape, Bright, Natural, Vibrant, etc.). It's not as simple as more consumer based cameras' settings, but they're there and may yield acceptable JPG results.

[cristianmiu]

What about a full frame lens on a crop camera? I guess that instead of 24-70 I will have 35-105... or something like that (multiply with 1.5)

[pschlute]

What about a full frame lens on a crop camera? I guess that instead of 24-70 I will have 35-105... or something like that (multiply with 1.5)

You are missing the point entirely. Changing the lens or format will not change the fact that a raw file needs to be processed. If you do not know how to do that then stick to jpeg. I have replied three times to the same effect and you have ignored all replies. If you really want help you need to take advice you are given.

Changing camera or lens will not help you.

[cristianmiu]

I know that changing the lens will not improve the raw file . This are 2 different discussions.

A good lens has his advantages
1. Sharpenes
2. Brightenes
3. Less CA
4. Less noise
5. More clear details

I found pentax 35mm/2.4 a very good lens for his price. The problem with this lens is that sometimes has back focus. Don't know... from 10 pictures one must be out of focus. Especially in low light.

[pschlute]

The problem with this lens is that sometimes has back focus. Don't know... from 10 pictures one must be out of focus. Especially in low light.

That is good performance from PDAF. 90% correct.

[cristianmiu]

That is good performance from PDAF. 90% correct.

) Thanks. On low light i got around 3-5 shots out of focus ( that will be a rate of success between 50-70% ). Is there a solution for fixing this? For solving this i focus on other direction and then get back to my subject. Well... this is driving crazy when i got that shot, right there... a butterfly or a bird... happy that i catch the perfect one... and then i look and i see that is out of focus...

[35mmfilmfan]

A few things occur to me:

One, a RAW file is like a negative - almost all negatives require darkroom work to make a better image (see Ansel Adams !)
Two, autofocus will often struggle in low light except with a faster lens (f2.8 or wider)
Three, birds and butterflies move, sometimes quite rapidly - are you sure that it is a focus issue and not subject movement ?
Four, (and please don't take this the wrong way) are you actually understanding the advice you have been given, or are you just seeking approval of your own ideas for a solution ?

[MossyRocks]

Three, birds and butterflies move, sometimes quite rapidly - are you sure that it is a focus issue and not subject movement ?

When going after such things even with a slight breeze I prefer the high speed burst mode method. Get it focused and framed up then shoot a pile in the hopes of getting one where they have moved back into focus. Then just bin the bad ones and don't tell anyone, memory cards are cheap.

[cristianmiu]

A few things occur to me:

One, a RAW file is like a negative - almost all negatives require darkroom work to make a better image (see Ansel Adams !)
Two, autofocus will often struggle in low light except with a faster lens (f2.8 or wider)
Three, birds and butterflies move, sometimes quite rapidly - are you sure that it is a focus issue and not subject movement ?
Four, (and please don't take this the wrong way) are you actually understanding the advice you have been given, or are you just seeking approval of your own ideas for a solution ?

I underatand the advice. I try to setup my camera for best jpeg results and then get back here.
I doubt that I will get results like this without filters or better lenses.

https://flic.kr/p/2hXQQMJ
https://flic.kr/p/QuafdV
https://flic.kr/p/QbTcbm

[pschlute]

I doubt that I will get results like this without filters or better lenses.

You are wrong. Any of your current equipment can produce images as good or better than those.

But I doubt you will get better images....... because you will not listen.

These images were taken with the 16-50/2.8 (no filter) and a Pentax K10 (only a measly 10MP compared to your 24MP)

[cristianmiu]

Over the weekend i will drain my camera battery testing various jpeg settings.

I will get back with results after

Thank you!

[Alex645]

Over the weekend i will drain my camera battery testing various jpeg settings.

I will get back with results after

Good move. You will see significant changes.

And the drained battery can be recharged

[West Penn]

Over the weekend i will drain my camera battery testing various jpeg settings.

I will get back with results after

Thank you!

An easier way would be to use the Digital Camera Utility software that came with the camera. Simply take an appropriate RAW image and make Vivid, Natural, Bright, etc. JPEG copies. Add various levels of exposure, contrast, hue, saturation, sharpening, and then pick the image with tone and settings you like best. Then set your camera accordingly. The only problem is that different images likely will need different settings.

[mikesbike]

Over the weekend i will drain my camera battery testing various jpeg settings.

I will get back with results after

Thank you!

I have not used a K-3, so I am not familiar with whether its processor has a variance compared to other Pentax bodies of my experience in terms of setting sharpness, etc. as well as its metering properties for exposure. In the past, I owned some that did and also tended to underexpose some, and required correction one way or another at times. The K200D and K20D come to mind. The K-5 series did so but far less. I still use the K-5 IIs quite a bit, which is a fine camera, and its processor is capable of producing very fine JPEG images. Likewise with the subsequent KS-2 and now especially the KP, neither of which tend to underexpose. The metering of the KP and its processor for JPEG images are quite outstanding.

With all of these models, including adjusting compensation for any exposure differences, I use the following settings- As to the defaults for adjustment increments- your camera might come set as 1EV steps for adjustment (including exposure comp, ISO, etc) but I generally set mine for 1/3 EV steps for more refinement of incremental change.

As to JPEG images, Pentax has more control by the user than others have, as far as I know. Quite exceptional, in fact. In the Custom Image menus, for most usage, the best setting for all-around good results is the "Bright" category, which is default except for when the mode dial is set to the green auto mode, then the camera will decide which category it will choose according to what it "thinks" is being done. So the green auto mode is something I never use. If you access the Custom Image menus, then the menu of the Bright" category, you will probably find the sharpness level will be up by one extra notch, which is ok. This is default for this category. Likewise with the contrast setting. If you tab down to the sharpness setting, I recommend to also add "Fine Sharpening" using your rear thumb dial. Color saturation might also be more intense in this category, which is usually fine.

For exceptionally high contrast scenes, you might sometimes wish to switch to the "Natural" category, as it has a more toned-down color palette, and a normal contrast setting. You can if desired, increase the sharpness level in this category to match that in the "Bright" category, and add "Fine Sharpening" here as well. If you want to avoid an over-flushed look in photos with people, this category is a good option. But if it is a scene emphasizing lots of colors, maybe leave it on "Bright".

I don't recommend increasing any sharpness aspect in the "Portrait" category, which has a color palette optimized for for this purpose.

Your photos look good for the most part. The ones you complain about are evidently sub-par due to a lack of understanding lighting and how your camera's meter reads that lighting. Aperture choices and use of focus points seem to also play a role. There are some backlit scenes causing a murky result.

Here are some pointers:

As you can see from pschlute's 3 shots above, taking into account the lighting and where it is coming from is of extreme importance. If in his scenes the lighting had been mostly coming from behind the mountains, or from behind and to one side, there would be problems to deal with. If the sky were then properly exposed, you'd have mountain silhouettes. If you just fired the camera and got a general overall exposure, you'd then get an overexposed sky and indistinct mountains. His shots were taken later in the day when the sun was still strong, but at a good angle and from behind him, flooding the entire scene. At that angle, the sky will also be more blue.

Remember- opening your lens to a larger aperture (smaller number) lets In more light so you can get a higher shutter speed, important when light is low and doing hand-held shots, and for live subjects or the effects of wind. A high enough shutter speed can freeze these motions, as well as compensate for the inadvertent slight motion of your own body, all of which could cause lack of sharpness. A larger aperture will also reduce depth-of-field (DOF) to blur the background which will isolate a subject of interest you are focusing on, making that subject stand out more from that background.

However, in certain scenes, you may want that subject (the foreground) AND the background to look sharp, in which case you will need to close you aperture more (stop it down- smaller number) to gain more DOF. Of course to do this and maintain enough shutter speed, you will need adequately strong lighting, or raise ISO to gain more light sensitivity.

With Pentax exclusively, you have the Pentax Hyper System, where even if in P mode, you can at any time select a different aperture or shutter speed than the camera has chosen, just by using your thumb or finger dial to make the change you wish. This will shift you into Av or Tv mode instantly without your having to switch the mode dial first before selecting what you want. Then a touch of the green button can instantly restore full Program mode. Very fast and efficient.

When shooting people pics in daytime outdoor scenes, I recommend to habitually make use of your flash. I believe the K-3 has a built-in flash. You might even need to turn it up by going to the flash adjustment section +or- comp, as when there is bright daylight, the flash's meter reads all that light and may reduce output. This is accessed right on the back of your camera. This seemingly unneeded use of flash in daylight will make your people shots look better. it will put a bit of catchlight in the eyes, and will fill in shadows to a degree in eye sockets, etc. You don't normally have problems with redeye in daylight shots.

Be sure your exposure comp is set to "0" except for temporary situations where it is needed, the be sure to return it to normal. Be sure metering is set to the normal pattern/matrix. If switching it for a certain use, be sure to set it back.

Using center-only spot AF is usually best for focus accuracy. You can train the camera specifically where you want focus to be, then by holding that focus with the half-press of the shutter button, or the rear AF button, you can reposition the camera to frame your shot, then complete the half press to fire the shutter.