Haze haze haze

cristianmiu · 12-09-2019, 06:07 AM

Hello,

I own a pentax k3 and various pentax lenses (16-50/f2.8, 35mm/2.4, 50-200). I have noticed a lot of haze on my photos on mountains or seaside. One of my friends owns a Nikon d3300. Shooting the same subject with both cameras (d3300 with AFP 18-55 and k3 with 16-50 or 35mm) at f8, the Nikon have better results.
The photos with k3 are hazy, blueish... and the photos from the d3300 are without any haze or blueish tone.

If I use an UV filter haze 2E it will cut the haze and see any improvement?
I like shooting landscapes, but in more than 50% I got this annoying haze.

Thank you!

**pepperberry farm** · 12-09-2019, 06:14 AM

perhaps you could post some examples, with EXIF data intact...

Bertrand3000 · 12-09-2019, 06:32 AM

Difficult to say without sample shots. It could be over exposition, flare, white balance incorrectly set, for example.

**rogerstg** · 12-09-2019, 06:50 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by cristianmiu

Shooting the same subject with both cameras (d3300 with AFP 18-55 and k3 with 16-50 or 35mm) at f8, the Nikon have better results.

Chances are that your friend is using the camera's built in scene mode for landscapes. It'll use settings geared to producing good jpg images for that mode. Your K-3 is a more advanced prosumer camera and does not have those modes since many such photographers find more flexibility by deciding their own settings and/or prefer to work with RAW files and post process.

You can change your K-3 settings to increase contrast, sharpness and color balance to resolve your issues.
Also, he might be using a polarizer, which you might find helpful regardless.

**sergysergy** · 12-09-2019, 07:41 AM

Check the filters/scene modes you have on. Do those pictures look the same in your computer? Are they jpeg or raw?

**MossyRocks** · 12-09-2019, 07:46 AM

A polarizing filter may be in order if you don't have one as that usually resolves a lot of the haze issue. Then there are the developing settings either in camera or from raw on your computer. I shoot raw which easily allows one to adjust and fix haze issues. When editing going into curves and pulling down the darks and up the brights so the line is kind of s shaped will usually do nicely. You will have to play with the points to find the ones that work best for the image but it is a good tool to learn. If you haven't worked with curves before this should be enough to get you started.

cristianmiu · 12-09-2019, 07:51 AM

Ok, i could not find the same shot with nikon vs pentax but i did find something similar... kx vs d3300.

Also i have attached a lot some pictures maded with the k3 in raw mode. Another thing that bother me is that the raw files are darker and i need to work a lot in LR to obtain what i want. Also i got the feeling that i got to many blue/magenta in the photos. And i hate photos on sunny days... if i don't PP a beautiful sunny day looks like gray out like a cloudy day.

Another thing that i don't like and don't know how to fix it... Pentax photos are not so bright compared to nikon.

I have changed from KX to K5ii... and from k5II to K5 iis... and now i own a K3. All of my cameras have done the same things:

1. Autofocus lacks sometime with BF or FF
2. The raw images are to dark and the sunny days looks like cloudy ones
3. The brightness is kind of muted compared to nikon or sony.

So, how can i solve all does things?

I also own an Sigma 70-300, well the photos are sharp and warm... i kind of like it... but i cannot use 70-300 all the time.

Attached Images

View Picture EXIF

View Picture EXIF

**rogerstg** · 12-09-2019, 08:49 AM

Originally posted by cristianmiu

Another thing that i don't like and don't know how to fix it... Pentax photos are not so bright compared to nikon.

In your first comparison, the Nikon was set to add one stop of exposure, while the Pentax set to add only half a stop. That alone will cause the Nikon image to be brighter. The aperture is also different. There may be additional differences but the exif info is limited.
Different settings give different results.

**csa** · 12-09-2019, 09:10 AM

I would agree with the above statement. I have a K3 and definitely don't get constant dark, murky results. It's difficult to compare exactly, two different cameras; but I would suggest you play around with your settings; I'm sure you will get much better results.

**rogerstg** · 12-09-2019, 10:16 AM

Also check to see if you have highlight protection on. It appears that some of your before and after photos might have suffered from blown highlights had the original not been less exposed.

DeadJohn · 12-09-2019, 10:18 AM

Originally posted by cristianmiu

...The raw images are to dark and the sunny days looks like cloudy ones...

When you say "raw images", what photo file format are you using: actually raw (DNG or PEF), or JPG? Raw gives you a file that is very flexible but needs to be processed in software.

If you are using JPG format, there are in-camera settings to increase brightness/contrast/saturation. If you are using an actual raw format, there are similar settings in whatever processing software you have.

Is your Nikon friend using a circular polarizing filter? That will boost saturation and decrease haze.

pschlute · 12-09-2019, 11:17 AM

Originally posted by cristianmiu

Another thing that bother me is that the raw files are darker and i need to work a lot in LR to obtain what i want

Eh ? That is the point of raw files. They need to be worked on. They need to have colour and contrast and sharpening applied or you will have a very dull result.

I use raw all the time, but until you understand the workflow stick to jpeg.

ps. There is no such thing as a raw image. Raw files are just: that files of data. image files have an extension like .jpg or .png or .tiff. You cannot view a raw image. It is a contradiction in terms.

**Alex645** · 12-09-2019, 12:06 PM

Originally posted by cristianmiu

Another thing that bother me is that the raw files are darker and i need to work a lot in LR to obtain what i want. Also i got the feeling that i got to many blue/magenta in the photos. And i hate photos on sunny days... if i don't PP a beautiful sunny day looks like gray out like a cloudy day.

Another thing that i don't like and don't know how to fix it... Pentax photos are not so bright compared to nikon.

RAW files are almost always darker to prevent blown highlights. You can usually recover shadow details but you are very limited in recovering washed out highlights.

I own both Pentax and Nikon DSLRs and they both use the same Sony sensor. When shooting RAW, I have to work in either LR or PS on both, so Pentax and Nikon RAWs being slightly different makes no difference in the end...the lens used and a hood make more of a difference.

When it comes to jpegs, you need to experiment with your menu to find the settings to your taste. Because Nikon assumes an entry camera is being used by an entry level user, they work hard to exaggerate the jpegs to look saturated, contrasty, and bright. More advance users using more advanced cameras usually want a more natural bias on their jpegs.

krazny · 12-10-2019, 03:53 AM

Originally posted by Dpreview:

K7 CONS

Tendency to clip highlights in high-contrast scenes
Relatively little RAW headroom means it is difficult to pull back blown detail even when shooting RAW

I do not own a K-7 and have never used one but maybe you are expecting identical results from cameras which are not identical ?

You could always try to make a jpeg profile similar to the one your friend is using on the D3300.

However as many have noted. Raw files are not meant to look sparkling. They appear dull and grey until you have processed them.

**Rondec** · 12-10-2019, 04:02 AM - **1 Like**

If you want to emulate the Nikon's look, you need to either shoot jpegs, use shadow correction, probably use bright setting, and bump saturation and sharpening a bit or create a Lightroom preset that does those sorts of things. These images look like they are a bit underexposed (not a problem if you are shooting RAW and trying to protect the highlights) and need some sharpening.

I wouldn't say that the D3300 images look great -- the colors look off to me and a bit oversaturated -- but it still shouldn't be too hard to get something you like with minimal effort.

---------- Post added 12-10-19 at 06:03 AM ----------

Originally posted by krazny

I do not own a K-7 and have never used one but maybe you are expecting identical results from cameras which are not identical ?

You could always try to make a jpeg profile similar to the one your friend is using on the D3300.

However as many have noted. Raw files are not meant to look sparkling. They appear dull and grey until you have processed them.

The K-7 did have poor head room, but the Kx, K5 II, and K3 mentioned in this thread don't have that issue. They use much better Sony sensors.

12-09-2019, 06:07 AM	#1
cristianmiu Junior Member Join Date: May 2015 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 33	Haze haze haze Hello, I own a pentax k3 and various pentax lenses (16-50/f2.8, 35mm/2.4, 50-200). I have noticed a lot of haze on my photos on mountains or seaside. One of my friends owns a Nikon d3300. Shooting the same subject with both cameras (d3300 with AFP 18-55 and k3 with 16-50 or 35mm) at f8, the Nikon have better results. The photos with k3 are hazy, blueish... and the photos from the d3300 are without any haze or blueish tone. If I use an UV filter haze 2E it will cut the haze and see any improvement? I like shooting landscapes, but in more than 50% I got this annoying haze. Thank you!

12-10-2019, 03:53 AM	#14
krazny Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2016 Posts: 118	Originally posted by Dpreview: K7 CONS Tendency to clip highlights in high-contrast scenes Relatively little RAW headroom means it is difficult to pull back blown detail even when shooting RAW I do not own a K-7 and have never used one but maybe you are expecting identical results from cameras which are not identical ? You could always try to make a jpeg profile similar to the one your friend is using on the D3300. However as many have noted. Raw files are not meant to look sparkling. They appear dull and grey until you have processed them.

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12-09-2019, 06:14 AM	#2
pepperberry farm amateur dirt farmer Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: probably out in a field somewhere... Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 41,780	perhaps you could post some examples, with EXIF data intact...

12-09-2019, 06:32 AM	#3
Bertrand3000 Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Posts: 2,009	Difficult to say without sample shots. It could be over exposition, flare, white balance incorrectly set, for example.

12-09-2019, 06:50 AM - 1 Like	#4
rogerstg Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Rhode Island Photos: Albums Posts: 1,168	Originally posted by cristianmiu Shooting the same subject with both cameras (d3300 with AFP 18-55 and k3 with 16-50 or 35mm) at f8, the Nikon have better results. Chances are that your friend is using the camera's built in scene mode for landscapes. It'll use settings geared to producing good jpg images for that mode. Your K-3 is a more advanced prosumer camera and does not have those modes since many such photographers find more flexibility by deciding their own settings and/or prefer to work with RAW files and post process. You can change your K-3 settings to increase contrast, sharpness and color balance to resolve your issues. Also, he might be using a polarizer, which you might find helpful regardless.

12-09-2019, 07:41 AM	#5
sergysergy Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2011 Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,175	Check the filters/scene modes you have on. Do those pictures look the same in your computer? Are they jpeg or raw?

12-09-2019, 07:46 AM	#6
MossyRocks Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Minnesota Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,982	A polarizing filter may be in order if you don't have one as that usually resolves a lot of the haze issue. Then there are the developing settings either in camera or from raw on your computer. I shoot raw which easily allows one to adjust and fix haze issues. When editing going into curves and pulling down the darks and up the brights so the line is kind of s shaped will usually do nicely. You will have to play with the points to find the ones that work best for the image but it is a good tool to learn. If you haven't worked with curves before this should be enough to get you started.

12-09-2019, 08:49 AM	#8
rogerstg Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Rhode Island Photos: Albums Posts: 1,168	Originally posted by cristianmiu Another thing that i don't like and don't know how to fix it... Pentax photos are not so bright compared to nikon. In your first comparison, the Nikon was set to add one stop of exposure, while the Pentax set to add only half a stop. That alone will cause the Nikon image to be brighter. The aperture is also different. There may be additional differences but the exif info is limited. Different settings give different results.

12-09-2019, 09:10 AM	#9
csa Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Montana mountains Posts: 10,133	I would agree with the above statement. I have a K3 and definitely don't get constant dark, murky results. It's difficult to compare exactly, two different cameras; but I would suggest you play around with your settings; I'm sure you will get much better results.

12-09-2019, 10:16 AM	#10
rogerstg Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Rhode Island Photos: Albums Posts: 1,168	Also check to see if you have highlight protection on. It appears that some of your before and after photos might have suffered from blown highlights had the original not been less exposed.

12-09-2019, 10:18 AM	#11
DeadJohn Pentaxian Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: New York Posts: 4,834	Originally posted by cristianmiu ...The raw images are to dark and the sunny days looks like cloudy ones... When you say "raw images", what photo file format are you using: actually raw (DNG or PEF), or JPG? Raw gives you a file that is very flexible but needs to be processed in software. If you are using JPG format, there are in-camera settings to increase brightness/contrast/saturation. If you are using an actual raw format, there are similar settings in whatever processing software you have. Is your Nikon friend using a circular polarizing filter? That will boost saturation and decrease haze.

12-09-2019, 11:17 AM	#12
pschlute Moderator Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Surrey, UK Photos: Gallery Posts: 8,219	Originally posted by cristianmiu Another thing that bother me is that the raw files are darker and i need to work a lot in LR to obtain what i want Eh ? That is the point of raw files. They need to be worked on. They need to have colour and contrast and sharpening applied or you will have a very dull result. I use raw all the time, but until you understand the workflow stick to jpeg. ps. There is no such thing as a raw image. Raw files are just: that files of data. image files have an extension like .jpg or .png or .tiff. You cannot view a raw image. It is a contradiction in terms.

12-09-2019, 12:06 PM	#13
Alex645 Site Supporter Join Date: May 2015 Location: Kaneohe, HI Photos: Albums Posts: 3,527	Originally posted by cristianmiu Another thing that bother me is that the raw files are darker and i need to work a lot in LR to obtain what i want. Also i got the feeling that i got to many blue/magenta in the photos. And i hate photos on sunny days... if i don't PP a beautiful sunny day looks like gray out like a cloudy day. Another thing that i don't like and don't know how to fix it... Pentax photos are not so bright compared to nikon. RAW files are almost always darker to prevent blown highlights. You can usually recover shadow details but you are very limited in recovering washed out highlights. I own both Pentax and Nikon DSLRs and they both use the same Sony sensor. When shooting RAW, I have to work in either LR or PS on both, so Pentax and Nikon RAWs being slightly different makes no difference in the end...the lens used and a hood make more of a difference. When it comes to jpegs, you need to experiment with your menu to find the settings to your taste. Because Nikon assumes an entry camera is being used by an entry level user, they work hard to exaggerate the jpegs to look saturated, contrasty, and bright. More advance users using more advanced cameras usually want a more natural bias on their jpegs.

12-10-2019, 04:02 AM - 1 Like	#15
Rondec Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gladys, Virginia Photos: Gallery Posts: 27,666	If you want to emulate the Nikon's look, you need to either shoot jpegs, use shadow correction, probably use bright setting, and bump saturation and sharpening a bit or create a Lightroom preset that does those sorts of things. These images look like they are a bit underexposed (not a problem if you are shooting RAW and trying to protect the highlights) and need some sharpening. I wouldn't say that the D3300 images look great -- the colors look off to me and a bit oversaturated -- but it still shouldn't be too hard to get something you like with minimal effort. ---------- Post added 12-10-19 at 06:03 AM ---------- Originally posted by krazny I do not own a K-7 and have never used one but maybe you are expecting identical results from cameras which are not identical ? You could always try to make a jpeg profile similar to the one your friend is using on the D3300. However as many have noted. Raw files are not meant to look sparkling. They appear dull and grey until you have processed them. The K-7 did have poor head room, but the Kx, K5 II, and K3 mentioned in this thread don't have that issue. They use much better Sony sensors.