Originally posted by ramseybuckeye but is there a way to measure the charge in batteries
There is more than one way, depending on the application. For devices like cameras where the current draw is relatively steady,
ampere hours (or more commonly milli-amp hours) is a good way to measure how long the battery can supply a constant level of electrical current. Batteries can also be rated by the maximum current they can provide for a short, fixed period of time (usually at a specified temperature), automotive batteries have a CCA (cold cranking amps) rating. There are also ways to rate batteries for the number of times they can provide bursts of current until they are discharged, how many times they can be recharged before their charge storage performance drops below a specified standard, and so on.
I think there is even an ISO standard for calculating how many shots a camera can take on a single battery charge and I would expect that specifications published by camera manufacturers are legitimate and accurate ratings. The battery manufacturers aren't likely to spend much money on independent testing on every camera model their batteries fit, so I don't expect the same legitimacy and accuracy for third-party, aftermarket batteries.
---------- Post added 01-06-20 at 10:39 PM ----------
I use rechargeable lithium batteries for my cochlear implant, at $200/battery, I have a vested interested in getting the most out of the four rechargeable batteries I use in rotation that I can. To squeeze as much charge into them as possible, I have to use a special dedicated battery holder and power convertor, which also costs $200. If I want to use disposable air-zinc 675 batteries for my implant, I have only one battery manufacturer to chose from that puts enough charge in pairs of their batteries to get close to the same hours of use that I get from the rechargeable ones (the holder for 2 disposable batteries is the same size as the shell of the rechargeable batteries). Even at $200 a pop, the rechargeable batteries start to hold less charge after a year (even if I only use each one every fourth day) and three years later, they only last 50-65% as long as they did when new.
I guess my point is that the least expensive battery that meets your minimum performance standards is probably your best choice. I ended up buying two extra OEM batteries for my K-30 from The Camera Store because even though they were double the price of aftermarket batteries on Amazon, I could afford to pay an extra $30 in total to avoid worrying if my replacement batteries wouldn't be as good as the one that came with the camera. I was happy with the performance of the OEM battery (which I am still using), so why bother taking a chance?