[Fiaskemist]

Thanks for the advice on lenses mikesbike, photogem, Alex645, Des. I haven’t had as much time over lately to get back at you or look into lenses much.

I will take your advice and go with the 18-135. Why I was at first set on the 18-50 is for its size and the DC motor. I wanted something small and not so scary big at first and with fast AF, so if my partner wants to pick up the camera, she can give it a go without complications.
But I will go with the 18-135 and add a prime later, something in the 20-50mm range, to have a small light lens that can be used as is. I just don’t know what length I want right now. I do want one with AF but might get an old manual first to play around with for myself, don’t seem to cost much either and there is a lot to choose from!

...
From my experience with nearly all lenses with DC motors, they are more silent and focus faster....but as they are designed for AF, manually focusing them is unacceptable for me. The focusing ring is like drive-by-wire. For example, modern cars that drive-by-wire means when you turn the steering wheel, it doesn't turn a shaft that has a rack and pinion gear, that then turns the wheels with or without power (steering) assistance. Instead, it the steering wheel is more like a video game controller and sends a signal to an ECU that then sends a signal to an electric steering motor. They've improved this over the years so it feels almost 'real' to give you a feel of the road, but it's all AI science.

So when you twist the focus ring, there is no direct link to gears for focusing, but rather an ECU that then powers the focus motors to move the elements. No power, no focus. Lots of delay and I feel like I'm steering a boat.

If you've never driven

I have a license but no car, don’t need it, but all cars I’ve driven have the steering wheel with shaft so I won’t really know. But is the 18-135 also focus-by-ring??

[photogem]

A very good entry into primes are both, the DA50/1,8 (nice fast, i.e. good for low light) and the DA35/2,4
The DA50 is also very good for portrait, not so much the DA35.


The most important when you got your DA18-135WR (a good choice!) is to take a lot of shots and check them for sharpness.
If necessary you start a new thread, upload photos and as questions if there is any daubt.

If you want to go for a manual lens, I'd recommend SMC Pentax A-primes:
Pentax A Prime Lenses - Reviews and Specifications - SLR and Interchangeable Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database

There you can find one of my favourites, the SMC Pentax A50/f2,8 macro.
It isn't a 1:1 macro but "just" 1:2 but it is a fantastic lens and very small and very light.
Not f1,8 as the DA50 but amazing sharp and great colors.


My wife loves it on her K-S1. For Christmas I got her the D-FA50/2,8 macro but she prefers the A50macro!

The A50/1,7 can be found very cheap and is great as well. As good as the DA50 but no AF of course.

I would not recommend to use full manual lenses (such as the Pentax M or K) because you then have to learn to use the green button method which
to many of us having learned with manual cameras and lenses is kind of natural but often not so for those who never experienced "analogue".
(Similar as with recordplayers, tape-machines etc.)

I would not recommend to start with a very light sensitive lens such as the FA50/1,4 or the A50/1,4!
If not used to what is called narrow DOF one might get frustrated!

Good luck!

[Alex645]

But is the 18-135 also focus-by-ring??

Yes it is. It uses a DC motor with the SDM system, which is ideal for fast, quiet autofocus. If you're mostly going to AF, then it's a great choice. If you're going to want to do a lot of manual focusing, it's not ideal. Also note that lenses designed for AF have short throws so that the motor can quickly focus. For manual focusing, it's harder because there is less room for error.

I am still a fan for the highly undervalued 18-55mm WR kit lens. With that lens, manual focusing is very straight forward and the only downside is that it's noisier when AF. My son has three lenses with his K50 and most of his keepers are with the 18-55mm.

Pentax DA 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AL WR Zoom Lens 21880 B&H Photo Video

Then if you want more reach, you can consider a 55-300mm or a 100mm WR macro.
If you want wider, you can get a 15mm prime.
And if you want a lens that will just make everyone smile because it's so small and light and not intimidating, the 40mm pancake.
Pentax HD Pentax DA 40mm f/2.8 Limited Lens (Silver) 21400 B&H

The 18-135mm is extremely popular, but I believe that a jack of all trades are masters of none. On the other hand, it's very convenient and cost effective.

[Des]

I wanted something small and not so scary big at first and with fast AF, so if my partner wants to pick up the camera, she can give it a go without complications.But I will go with the 18-135 and add a prime later, something in the 20-50mm range, to have a small light lens that can be used as is. I just don’t know what length I want right now. I do want one with AF but might get an old manual first to play around with for myself, don’t seem to cost much either and there is a lot to choose from!

My partner has small hands and (because of a chronic health condition) can't hold much weight at all. But she is fine with the 18-135. She can't be bothered with learning about aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings - she just wants to shoot, and she wants to be able to shoot from wide angle to telephoto with one lens. The 18-135 is ideal for that.

I think the plan to start with the 18-135 and add a prime later is a good one. As you say, when you start out it's impossible to know what focal length will prove the most useful to you. All of us differ about that.

I am still a fan for the highly undervalued 18-55mm WR kit lens. ...Then if you want more reach, you can consider a 55-300mm or a 100mm WR macro.If you want wider, you can get a 15mm prime.And if you want a lens that will just make everyone smile because it's so small and light and not intimidating, the 40mm pancake. ... The 18-135mm is extremely popular, but I believe that a jack of all trades are masters of none. On the other hand, it's very convenient and cost effective.

These are all good points, Alex, and I know your insights come from long practical experience as photographer and teacher. But here's a different perspective.

Like many photographers, over time I have transitioned from more generalist lenses to more specialist ones. Wide-ranging zooms like the 18-135 are a compromise. I think at every focal length in that range, I now have another lens that would do at least a little better (whether because of better corner resolution, HD coatings, wider aperture, better bokeh, more resolution or whatever). But not by as much as might be expected. The 18-135 is good enough right across the range. I couldn't say that for the 18-250mm superzoom that I had before. When I look back on photos with that lens now, I wish I had moved up earlier. I don't feel the same way about the 18-135.

Often as not, I feel that if I hadn't had the 18-135 on the camera, I would not have got the shot. I can be picky and say ...
... the DA 12-24 would have been better here


... or here (would have got the whole staircase in)


... the HD coatings on the DA 20-40 Ltd would have been useful here


... the DA 35 f2.4 would have provided more resolution here


... the FA 50mm f2.8 macro would have been better here


... the nisen bokeh here is horrible


... the 55-300 PLM would have been better here


But I'm not weighed down with regret. Sometimes good enough is good enough.

The biggest regret is the shots you don't get. If I'd had the DA 20-40 on the camera (instead of the 18-135), I could have got this (31mm)


.... but not this shortly afterwards (135mm)


The more you have to change lenses, the more shots you miss.

And if what you are doing is not mainly about photography but about a family moment or a walk or some other experience, changing lenses is particularly disruptive. And to the extent that you are concentrating on photography, if you are trying to learn about the exposure triangle, and about trying to avoid motion blur, and to improve the steadiness of your shots, and to improve composition, having a versatile lens takes out the additional distraction of swapping lenses.

To the OP, I'd say this: with more experience, and for when you are concentrating on photography rather than something else, by all means upgrade the kit to meet changing needs and more demands. But in the meantime, the K-5ii and 18-135 will serve you fine. It's the skills rather than the gear that is the real limitation when you are starting out.

---

Last edited by Des; 04-28-2020 at 05:00 PM.

[photogem]

.....The more you have to change lenses, the more shots you miss.

There is one other possibility which I often apply:
I just go out with 1 or 2 lenses.

I don't have to catch every possible shot.

So if it is the DA55-300 PLM (Which I love), I don't think of ultra-wide angle but often I have the small DA21limited with me.

If it is the DA*55/1,4 or a Takumar 50/1,4 8-element or a Leitz Summicron 50/2 adapted for Pentax, I just take that single lens with me.
I don't worry about any shot I will miss. I accept the limitation as a challenge.


Or I just take the DA20-40limited or the FA43/1,8 limited.

My wife does the same with her K-S1 (very small hands, rheuma, cannot hold too much weight)

Usually she uses only 3 lenses:
- A50/2,8 macro (she would go for this one if just one lens)
- DA50/1,8 (for quick AF shots)

- DA35/2,8 macro
But for birds etc. a vintage FA80-320 another K-S1 ready, so no need to exchange lenses

and in her car always a K30 + DA55-300 + Exacta 24mm/2,8 macro (not a true macro)

All Pentax bodies purchased very cheap as aperture-block-failure,
all got of course "a new hipjoint", i.e. the famous white Japan solenoid and work as they should.

[Fiaskemist]

I am now officially a Pentax owner.

Got both the camera and lens today! And does it feel heavy! I haven’t really ever handled a dslr so I was not prepared for this kind of weight. But it is already feeling lighter and lighter as I hold it more so no worries here, it’s just a bit unusual in my world where the heaviest device/gadget I hold in my hand is a phone (maybe my ipad but I don’t hold it in my hand that often).
Now to the bad news, I haven’t had time to get a SD card yet..

...When you get it, be sure to post its arrival for some setup tips, etc. I think you will be impressed as you handle it for the first time- it is obviously not a toy-like amateur-style camera!

What kind of setup tips were you thinking about? Give me all you got while I run out and get a SD card!

Sounds good, I’ll look into those primes photogem. Yes, I don’t think I want a full manual either so I’ll be looking for lenses with A on the aperture ring right? Do you know if P is the same thing? Because I’ve seen a couple of lenses with P on a local site.

Hey Alex645, the 18-135 isn’t focus-by-ring because I’ve read that manual focusing should work on older bodies without the SDM contacts. Also, I am able to focus with the camera turned off!

Beautiful photos Des! I like the “let the pictures speak for themselves” approach. I’m hoping that some day I will also be able to capture moments through good looking photos.

I’ll get back at you all later after I’ve gotten a card!

[normhead]

My wife Tess shoots the original K-5, and the K-5 IIs is better.

The image quality of the K-5 is excellent. people claiming you can do more... well "you can do better" never stops, you can always do better, that's not an argument for anything. so cancel that out and replace it with a K-5 can replicate 95% of what a k-1 or 645z can do an you'll understand the irrelevance of that consideration. Buy an 18-55, you can do better. Buy a DA* 16-50, you can still do better. Buy a K-1 with 28-105, you can still do better, that never stops.

The DA 18-135 has excellent focussing speed.

I used the kit lens 18-55 on Pentaxes from 2006 until 2010. There was not one circumstance I can think if where I took an image that was un-useable for the purpose I wanted to use it, mainly images for websites like canoeing forums, and images of family gatherings etc. where I looked at an image and said to myself "you need a better lens."

People forget, one of the selling points for Pentax 10 years ago was that the kit lenses were so good. I suspect that was before Tamron started making kit lenses for everyone else. Of course these lenses were optimized for 6 MP sensors.

My advice has always been that you should buy new lenses based on what you can afford in the focal length you want.

SO for my two cents I'd just like to re-iterate. In the somewhat limited Pentax ecosystem

One lens for a new camera an 18-135 will do you a long time

For a two lens purchase I'd go with the 16-85 and 55-300 PLM.

If you are interested in UWA, even if you buy the 16-85, you'll still want some thing like the 11-18 or Sigma 8-16 or for the sheer fun of it the DA 10-17 fisheye. When I go out with my 18-135 and Sigma 8-16 or DA 10-17, having a 16-85 or 18-135 would be moot. So if it was my choice, I suspect the 18-135 would have fewer lens changes than would a 16-85 in a three or four lens set.

You don't even know what you're missing until until you expand your range. The 18-135 is the best out there for coming in cold, and finding out what ranges you might be interested in next. 135 is barely into telephoto range, you won't learn much about shooting with a telephoto shooting with a 50mm or 70 or 85mm lens. 135mm APS-c or 200mm on FF is still in walk around lens range.

As for WR not being important. Hogwash. The seals make the lens feel much more secure, prevent front element wobble (which the 16 45 is famous for) and provide peace of mind in bad weather. There were a lot of days at Niagara Falls when the breeze from the falls was on shore, and I was one of the only ones out there with a decent camera still shooting, Are you really going to take the chance that you pay the big bucks for great photo opportunity and have it washed out by a light mist? You already paid your money and you're not getting it back.

Seriously, the above suggesting of the 16-45 as a replacement for the 18-50. A bit of personal experience
I paid almost $700 for my 18-135 as an early adopter. A new friend whose' husband had died offered me his 16-45 for nothing. I used it for an afternoon then returned it. To me, it wasn't worth taking even for free. Everyone thinks differently, but, you have to recognize with any lens you might be buying something you won't use. For me the 16-45 would have spent most of it's time taking up shelf space. WR and the electric focussing systems both make that less like to happen. I see the 16-45, 16-50, 18-50 or 18-55 as functional only in the context of at least a 2 lens set. I've actually been asked to stop using my screw drive lenses on a number of occasions, so I'd cross out screw drive right off the top.

Of course some people really dislike the DA 18-135, but then, anyone who gets a lens at the low end of the sample doesn't like it. There are people who based on their experience dislike almost every lens out there (The DA*50-135 might be the exception, at least optically, people have had problems with it's SDM motors, which bring up another point, on second had lenses SDM is a gamble. The DC lenses have a solid track record.) You really have to be careful with negative advice. So really the 16-45 might be the lens for you. But many of us would find it extremely limiting. But we aren't you.

To me the biggest advantage to the 18-135 is, it was the first Pentax "better than kit" lens released with a DC motor, which has proved much more reliable than even SDM on DA* lenses. If you want a modern lens with WR and DC at a good price, you won't beat a second hand DA 18-135. It will allow you to explore "better than kit" optics at an extremely affordable price.

But bottom line, these are personal decisions, what myself or anyone else thinks may not work for another individual. Obviously what works for one, doesn't work for everyone. Listen to the advice, and then make your choice, based on what you think will work for you.

---

Last edited by normhead; 04-30-2020 at 09:42 AM.

[ELIOTRASIFA]

Since you are starting out, no need to break the bank. Expensive gear will NOT guarantee a great image if you are not using it properly.
The K-5 will give you fully manual settings, fully automatic setting, as well as some great modern features you would appreciate, for high quality images, at a very affordable price in the used market, especially here on PF's marketplace. K-5's are very durable, as well.
I recommend the 18-135 WR zoom lens, a great all-around lens for most needs, and it has autofocus and weather resistance, so you can brave the elements. Also, usually very affordable as a used lens. For a prime (non-zoom) lens, something between 31 and 50 mm will probably meet your needs, everyone here as their personal favorites.

I look forward to seeing your pictures.

It is all relative, yes af is better on new bodies, and I would persoanlly go for a camera with user adjustable AF, that rules out I think on flagship models everything below a K7. I don’t know about the lower down models, as I have never ospwned other than flagship ones. *istD, K10D, K7D, K5D and lastly K1 MK2

[ELIOTRASIFA]

I recommend the 18-135 WR zoom lens, a great all-around lens for most needs, and it has autofocus and weather resistance, so you can brave the elements. Also, usually very affordable as a used lens. For a prime (non-zoom) lens, something between 31 and 50 mm will probably meet your needs, everyone here as their personal favorites.

[Alex645]

I am now officially a Pentax owner.
Got both the camera and lens today!
Hey Alex645, the 18-135 isn’t focus-by-ring because I’ve read that manual focusing should work on older bodies without the SDM contacts. Also, I am able to focus with the camera turned off!

Good to know....thanks for the update and my apology for being incorrect on the focus concern.

Also good to know you're adjusting to the weight of the camera. The weight is in part the weather sealing and less plastic. Also Pentax generally use pentaprisms instead of pentamirrors which make the camera heavier but the viewfinder brighter. That weight is also helpful for a more steady hand with slower shutter speeds and balances the camera nicely with lenses like the 18-135mm.

[photogem]

Sounds good, I’ll look into those primes photogem. Yes, I don’t think I want a full manual either so I’ll be looking for lenses with A on the aperture ring right? Do you know if P is the same thing? Because I’ve seen a couple of lenses with P on a local site.

A-aperture-ring yes, P no!
P is P/KA Ricoh and you best read here about it
There are P/KA lenses which have just the Ricoh-Pin and are full manual and there are those who work like A-lenses.
So you have to study those pages and about the Ricoh-Pin.
I wrote a a tutorial about how to remove the infamous Ricoh-Pin
I recommend you use SMC Pentax-A-lenses if you want to go for non AF lenses!
Save and good start!

[Fiaskemist]

So, i took some photos on my way home after I bought a SD card and want to post them so others can check if everything is working as it should be. What part of the forum is right for that?

Edit: I’m reading the manual, gotten to p.89 so far, and I do have some questions but I’ll ask only a couple of question at a time for both my wellbeing and everyone else’s here.
Noise reduction, is this something I want turned on?
What are program line settings, when do they apply?

Thanks normhead for giving a reasonable point of view, good to hear.

I recommend the 18-135 WR zoom lens, a great all-around lens for most needs, and it has autofocus and weather resistance, so you can brave the elements. Also, usually very affordable as a used lens. For a prime (non-zoom) lens, something between 31 and 50 mm will probably meet your needs, everyone here as their personal favorites.

Thanks, I decided to go with the 18-135! I guess I will find my favourite prime length soon too.

Good to know....thanks for the update and my apology for being incorrect on the focus concern.
...

No worries, it’s alright! I’m just happy that I have a lens with regular manual focusing for when I want to use it.

Thanks photogem

[Des]

I decided to go with the 18-135! I guess I will find my favourite prime length soon too.

Congratulations. Don't rush to buy another lens in that focal range. Try a lot of things first.

i took some photos on my way home after I bought a SD card and want to post them so others can check if everything is working as it should be. What part of the forum is right for that?

You can post right here. Easiest way is to use the "Post Reply" (rather than "Quick Reply") button. To insert a photo, click the "Manage Attachments" button below the typing box. In the "Manage Attachments" popup, use the "Browse ..." button to select the jpg photo, then press "Upload". The photo(s) will be inserted at the end of the post. If the image is larger than 1Mb or 1400 x 900 pixels, it will be compressed during the upload, so don't be surprised if it doesn't look as good as it does when viewed at full size on your computer.

One limitation of this method is that you can't position the image in the middle of the post. (Someone will correct me if I am now wrong about that.) To get around that, create an album, upload your photo to the album, then use the "Insert Album Photos" button to the right of the "Reply to Thread" typing box. In the popup box, there is a dropdown box next to "From:". Select "Pictures & Albums". In the "As:" dropdown box, choose "Original only" (usually). Click on the photo and it will be inserted. You can have text either side of it if you want.

Most regular posters post their images to a third-party hosting site and then post from there. The most popular one is Flickr. You can have up to 1000 photos in a free account on Flickr.

Noise reduction, is this something I want turned on?

If you are shooting in jpg, maybe. See this comparison and judge for yourself:
Pentax K-5 II / IIs Review - High ISO Noise Reduction | PentaxForums.com Reviews
https://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/K5/K5HI_ISO_NR.HTM (this is testing the K-5 rather than K-5ii)

Note that NR will slow down the processing of each photo, so it's not good if you are trying to fire a burst of shots. The downside of NR is that, unless it is very well implemented, you lose detail in the cleanup.

Personally I turn off in-camera NR, because I shoot in RAW and use processing software for NR. (Most of the in-camera NR settings don't affect RAW files anyway.) Dedicated processing software in 2020 can be expected to do a much better job of NR than the built-in software in a 2012 model camera.

What are program line settings, when do they apply?

Program line (P-Line) settings apply when the camera is used in P (Program) mode. They tell the camera what to prioritise for a given exposure: such as the optimal aperture of the lens (MTF), fast shutter speed, wide aperture to produce a shallow depth of field (DOF) or narrow aperture for greater DOF. Or you can leave it in Auto or Standard and let the camera work it out. (I am basing this on the K-3; I assume there are similar options with the K-5ii.) If you have chosen to prioritise a fast shutter speed, for example, it will adjust the balance of shutter speed, aperture and ISO (if the ISO is not fixed) around the faster shutter. If you have chosen a shallow DOF, it will choose the widest aperture available and adjust the shutter speed and ISO to produce the appropriate exposure.

When you are shooting in P mode, you can always override the aperture, shutter or ISO choices the camera makes. For example, suppose for a particular scene the camera chooses f8, 1/60th second, 400 ISO. (I'm assuming the ISO is floating rather than fixed.) Let's say the subject (a child) is moving around, so if you use 1/60th the child will be too blurry and that is not the effect you want. You turn the front dial to adjust the shutter speed to 1/250th second. Each time you double or halve the shutter speed, that is an adjustment of one stop or 1 EV, so going from 1/60th -> 1/125th -> 1/250th is two stops or -2EV. The camera will adjust the aperture and/or ISO to compensate for the two-stop adjustment of the shutter speed. It might give you something like f5.6 (i.e. a one-stop adjustment of aperture) and 800 ISO (a one-stop adjustment of sensitivity - each time you double or halve the ISO is the equivalent of 1EV). That will produce the same exposure as the original settings. That is the Hyper-Program function in action.

I’m reading the manual, gotten to p.89 so far, and I do have some questions but I’ll ask only a couple of question at a time for both my wellbeing and everyone else’s here.

This is good, but the manual will leave you with a lot of questions. By all means ask here, but I'd suggest you get the ebook for the K-5ii, written by the late lamented PF member Yvon Bourque: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/24-photographic-equipment-sale/386491-sa...k-50-k-s2.html

[mikesbike]

Actually, the manual focus feel and function on the DA 18-135mm is better than most such AF lenses, especially those having among the fastest-performing AF as this one does. First For practicing MF, be sure to switch the camera to MF operation, using the control on the camera's left side. Also, switch the AF sensor points option control on the back (a rotating control surrounding the AF button) to the center point only for spot AF. Using spot AF properly is best for achieving accurate focus, and can be of value even when using MF.

---------- Post added 05-01-20 at 03:58 PM ----------

And does it feel heavy! I haven’t really ever handled a dslr so I was not prepared for this kind of weight. But it is already feeling lighter and lighter as I hold it more so no worries here, it’s just a bit unusual in my world where the heaviest device/gadget I hold in my hand is a phone (maybe my ipad but I don’t hold it in my hand that often).

What you have there is an advanced camera of professional design and build standards, distinctly so compared to the usual, common DSLR bodies. But among this class of camera, it is considered as an unusually compact and lighter camera for a flagship model, yet without compromising its excellent build quality. Proper holding of the camera when in the shooting position will handle the weight much more effectively, as well as producing better photographic results. Hold with the left hand, supporting the weight from underneath by resting part of the camera's base on the heel of your open palm, with your fingers able to hold and manipulate the lens. Your left elbow should be in against your body to stabilize. Your right hand around the right hand grip is mainly for stability and for operating controls. Someone posted a good video not long ago demonstrating proper holding. Maybe it was aslyfox, who is good at finding useful links.

Also, did your camera come with an owner's manual? These are very useful, even though often falling short of revealing all they should, or in clarity. I though I saw a link for camera manual downloads somewhere here in this website.

Unless already done, since this is a used camera, it might be a good idea to do a reset to factory default settings. Then start from there. I have bought used 35mm film bodies as backup to my main camera years ago, but never have I bought a used DSLR, so I have no experience doing a reset. Someone else here can better advise.

Be sure not to to put your camera's mode dial on the green auto mode. This will disable most adjustment controls. For fully automatic exposure by the camera, use the P (Program) mode.

Now back to focusing. With your camera now on center-only spot focus, set the focus mode to AF- S (control on the camera's left side)- that is for single shot at a press of the shutter button, where the camera shutter will not fire unless focus is achieved. The idea now is to use AF for the time being, in order to get used to the working of the lens and camera's AF system. The best, most accurate method to be in touch (literally and mentally) with the AF system is using the half-way press of the shutter button to achieve AF before completing the shutter press to fire the shot. This is far better than just pointing the camera and pushing the shutter button all the way down. First train the camera's center spot AF point (center of the viewfinder) on a subject or part of a subject that has a well-defined part for the sensor to grab onto. Then use the half-press to achieve focus. If there is little or nothing for the sensor to sense, if it is trained on say the sand at the beach, or a blank wall, there will not be good function. If you've trained on some well-defined pattern or object, focus will pop in instantly, and the focus confirmation light will come on and a beeb will sound. If you already have the composition you want, just complete the press to fire the shutter. But this technique is also used often to train on a certain part because there is an optimum spot in the scene where focus should be best, but is not in the center of your composition. A very, very common circumstance! You simply achieve focus there using spot focus and the half press, hold the half press as you move the camera to the composition you desire, then complete the press for your shot. A very important technique. The rear AF button can also be used instead of the half press. With practice, you can get quite good at achieving focus on just the right spot, then recomposing for your shot.

Now for practicing MF. Set the camera on MF The focusing collar on this lens is the narrow band near the base of the lens. Train your AF spot focus, same way as with AF, Then gradually rotate the focus collar until the focus spot is clear, and the confirmation light comes on with a beep. But don't stop there. Keep the rotation going a bit further until there is out-of-focus fuzziness again. Then rotate back, but again go beyond the focus confirmation. The idea is by doing this you are training your eye to accurately detect the point of focus. You may find that sometimes your eye tells you sharpness is better just a bit off where the confirmation indicates. First, however, you must set up the diopter adjustment above the VF eyecup to match your eyesight!

Do you wear glasses? If so, the decision must be made to either shoot with or without your glasses. The diopter can only adjust so far, so if your glasses are quite strong, your eyesight might require more correction than the camera's control can deliver, so you will have to shoot with glasses on. Or, you might prefer to shoot with your glasses on. Once you determine this, put your camera on AF-S. In good, bright conditions, find a spot or subject having good crisp detail and contrast upon which to train your spot AF. Try the same subject, same way with the diopter at different settings until you get the best clarity in the VF. Do this before practicing your focusing.

Oops- I just saw you have the owners manual. Good!

[Fiaskemist]

Congratulations. Don't rush to buy another lens in that focal range. Try a lot of things first.

Thanks Des, I do need to hear that since I sometimes can get a bit impulsive. I do agree that waiting with getting a prime is best.

I signed up to Flickr, will post images down below!

I'll leave NR on for now. I'm not sure that I'll start post-processing any time soon.

Program line (P-Line) settings apply when the camera is used in P (Program) mode. They tell the camera what to prioritise for a given exposure: ...

Great to know, I will be using P mode a lot since it seems to be recommended. When I override one of these choices in P mode, will then the other two be automatically adjusted? For example, if I change aperture, will shutter speed and ISO automatically change? Also, when people mention Pentax’s hyper mode, is it the P mode that is referred to?

This is good, but the manual will leave you with a lot of questions. By all means ask here, but I'd suggest you get the ebook for the K-5ii, written by the late lamented PF member Yvon Bourque: ...

Sounds interesting, I will check it out. What is the difference between the manual and this ebook?

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Mikesbike, you and everyone else here make learning to use this camera fun. It is already exciting but you make it just that much more fun with your help. I will start practicing during the coming week.

Yes, I have the owners manual and will read through it.
I used the half-press method when I shot the pictures below but I did it in green mode.

I will be buying new glasses soon actually since my last pair broke, a few years ago.. I do wear contacts though but I prefer glasses so I will adjust the diopter then.


Took these shots on my way home right after buying my SD card, all of them taken in green mode. Can anyone see if the camera and lens do not seem to be working as they should?