Messed-up SD Card and Can I turn off Focal Length Request?

**MossyRocks** · 07-30-2020, 11:05 AM - **1 Like**

Originally posted by AstroDave

At any rate, I've got all the files recovered, but that card goes in the bin.

Good to hear and I would bin the card as well. The first time I have an issue with any flash memory I bin it. It is cheap and might as well be treated as consumable. Do you run redundant cards in the K-1 as that would in theory prevent the accidental loss if one card fails before the other. I do this with my cameras that have dual slots since it is cheap insurance.

Oldbayrunner · 07-30-2020, 12:01 PM - **1 Like**

Trashing an SD card more often then not isn't really necessary. Usually doing a low level format can solve most errors with SD cards and render them back to excellent working conditions. A low level format not only erases data but also marks any bad sectors on the disk so files cannot be written to them. The SD Association has a specific software for use that wont erase the partitions cameras use so it is safe to format using this software on a computer. The software contains both a quick and low level format so read the manual on how to do a low level one.....

SD Memory Card Formatter - SD Association

**AstroDave** · 07-30-2020, 02:46 PM

Originally posted by MossyRocks

Do you run redundant cards in the K-1 as that would in theory prevent the accidental loss if one card fails before the other. I do this with my cameras that have dual slots since it is cheap insurance.

Originally posted by Oldbayrunner

A low level format not only erases data but also marks any bad sectors on the disk so files cannot be written to them.

I've never bothered running two cards (getting the one closest to the door flap hinge out is a nuisance!), but that plus Oldbayrunner's low-level format might convince me to use the old card in parallel with a new one.

(Still won't prevent stupid moves like taking the card out with the power on, although I guess if you take only one out at a time ... !)

Thanks for the suggestions.

PDL · 07-30-2020, 04:34 PM

Focal length is requested when using non-AF lenses. You set it once while the lens is in place and the device "remembers" the setting - for manual or non autofocus lenses.

If you are shooting Astrotracker then focal length is necessary for that function to work. Using a manual focus lens, the camera needs the focal length to know how much to move the sensor during exposure. Simple enough to understand.

If you want to disable the focal length part, just turn off SR. SR is the part that needs focal length so it can shift the sensor due to vibration. If you turn off SR when using Astrotracker, then you are fundamentally defeating the purpose of that function.

**MossyRocks** · 07-30-2020, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by AstroDave

I've never bothered running two cards (getting the one closest to the door flap hinge out is a nuisance!)

That card mostly stays in the camera and is there just in case with my cameras.

stevebrot · 07-30-2020, 05:12 PM

Originally posted by mbceft

Almost like it needs to be unmounted from iOS file system or it leaves the card in a weird state. YMMV

Yes, that just might be the case. Best practice with USB storage is to ALWAYS eject or unmount before pulling the card. I know there are other members here who are more conversant with current OS features who say differently, but my experience on this site has been that a common cause of filesystem corruption is simply not allowing the OS to clear out its "stuff". MacOS seems to be particularly prone.

FWIW, using a cable connection does not free one of this responsibility.

Steve

Unregistered User · 07-31-2020, 04:17 AM

I researched that issue once about the focal length request, and found out that the software running the camera requires that information for accurate metering or autofocus or both (can't remember now why, but I did satisfy myself that it's best to just answer the question when it pops up).

35mmfilmfan · 07-31-2020, 06:45 AM

I discovered a long time ago that if I don't set write-protect BEFORE putting the card in the card reader, Windows will write some hidden files to the card, which renders it unreadable in the camera (K20D). No idea whether this applies with any other OS, but these days I set it as soon as I remove the card, then double check before putting it in the card reader. I only use each card once, retiring it when it is 90-92% full, doing a full backup to go with the interim backups I do after each day's shooting.

Unregistered User · 07-31-2020, 10:02 AM

Originally posted by 35mmfilmfan

I discovered a long time ago that if I don't set write-protect BEFORE putting the card in the card reader, Windows will write some hidden files to the card, which renders it unreadable in the camera (K20D). No idea whether this applies with any other OS, but these days I set it as soon as I remove the card, then double check before putting it in the card reader. I only use each card once, retiring it when it is 90-92% full, doing a full backup to go with the interim backups I do after each day's shooting.

That is determined by the format method (or "file system") applied to the card; if you format it with NTFS, that's what happens. I suggest formatting the card with ExFAT for a larger capacity card and FAT32 for smaller (4Gb or less).

35mmfilmfan · 07-31-2020, 01:05 PM

Originally posted by dlh

That is determined by the format method (or "file system") applied to the card; if you format it with NTFS, that's what happens. I suggest formatting the card with ExFAT for a larger capacity card and FAT32 for smaller (4Gb or less).

I always format the card in the camera - when I check properties on laptop, seems to think it's FAT32. Same with SDFormatter.

PDL · 07-31-2020, 01:58 PM - **1 Like**

If you connect a unlocked SD card to a Windows based device, it will write to the SD card as if it is a hard drive (which it essentially is). The OS will create a hidden folder "System Volume Information". This is the reason that when you are using either a internal card reader or another card reader you should lock the SD card.

I do not connect my camera to the computer, so I can not say what that does. If your card reader does not support the lock on the SD card, then you should buy a better reader. It is always best to eject the SD card before removing the card from the computer/card reader. Always format the SD card in the camera, if you format it using the computer, those nasty hidden files will show up and the format may not be correct for the SD to use. Let the camera make that decision - that is why the format card function is there.

Not a Number · 07-31-2020, 10:14 PM

Originally posted by PDL

If your card reader does not support the lock on the SD card, then you should buy a better reader

In Windows you can set any disk to readonly with DISKPART

Open a command window.
Type:
DISKPART

At the DISKPART> prompt type:
LIST DISK

Provided no card is in the reader one of the listed disk should say "No Media"
Select that disk with the command:
SEL DISK <number of disk>

Then type:
ATTRIBUTE DISK SET READONLY

the command to re-enable read/write is:
ATTRIBUTE DISK CLEAR READONLY

The card reader should now be readonly. Insert your card. When done open File Explorer and right click on the drive that is the card-card reader and pick eject. This ejects (detaches) the card.

If you uses the "Safely Remove Hardware and Eject Media" icon from the taskbar, it ejects (detaches) the card reader and you won't be able to re-enable read-write. Be sure to eject and remove the card before turning off readonly.

*Note: commands are shown in caps for clarity. Diskpart is case in-sensitive so it doesn't matter if all caps, all lower case or mixed.

PDL · 08-01-2020, 05:13 PM

Originally posted by Not a Number

In Windows you can set any disk to readonly with DISKPART

Open a command window.
Type:
DISKPART
-snip

However, when you put the SD card into the reader and insert it into the computer, or connect the camera to the computer, the computer will write the hidden file to the disk.
By the time you have typed in DISKPART the file is already there.

The best way to do this is to have a card reader that supports the lock function. My SanDisk card readers (SDHC) and the readers on my 2008 Toshiba, 2018 Lenovo and 2010 Asus all support the lock switch. I have connected my camera to the computer via USB once in the entire time I have had Pentax DSLR's (it was on my *ist DS) just to see if it worked (this was long before Windows 10 and before the hidden file was SOP for Microsoft).

Even my micro SD card adapters have a switch on them. However, since they are used only in my phone, I don't attach them to my computer at all.

(Back in the day of my first 128MB SanDisk USB stick - remember those? - that bad boy had a lock switch on the side of it. Something I really wish they would bring back. At my job - early USB days - we called them "virus injectors" and they were banned from use while on campus)

larryaustin3 · 08-01-2020, 06:18 PM

Card slot #1 on my K-3 stopped working and the SD card that was in it was damaged. I don't know if the card was damaged and then damaged the card slot or if the card slot damaged the card. Either way, that card slot doesn't work anymore.

PDL · 08-01-2020, 07:08 PM

I have a physically damaged SanDisk 32GB card that does not work in slot 2 of my K-3II. It does work in slot 1. I talked with SanDisk about their warrantee and they said they do not cover cards that have been physically damaged. I still have the card, but I don't really use it. I have 5 32GB cards, enough for most of my shooting. (I carry four cards and rotate them as the #1 card gets full)

My workflow is to do daily copies of the files shot for the day using the folders produced by the camera labeled by date onto a external SSD attached to my computer. When I process the images, I have two folders on the SSD, one set of files that have not been "processed" (have lens ID entered in via ExifTooGUI) and one that has been modified. I process the images in the field keeping the unprocessed files for use when I get back home on my desktop.

So, my point, hopefully you have a few SD cards laying around so you can test them in the camera. If it is the SD card, depending on the vendor, you should be able to contact them for a replacement. I had SanDisk replace a 128GB micro SD that died while in my phone - and I mean it died. The phone just rebooted and started to complain that there was no SD card inserted, even my desktop would not detect the card when inserted. SanDisk sent me a new one under the lifetime warrantee.

07-30-2020, 05:12 PM	#21
stevebrot Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Vancouver (USA) Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 42,007	Originally posted by mbceft Almost like it needs to be unmounted from iOS file system or it leaves the card in a weird state. YMMV Yes, that just might be the case. Best practice with USB storage is to ALWAYS eject or unmount before pulling the card. I know there are other members here who are more conversant with current OS features who say differently, but my experience on this site has been that a common cause of filesystem corruption is simply not allowing the OS to clear out its "stuff". MacOS seems to be particularly prone. FWIW, using a cable connection does not free one of this responsibility. Steve Last edited by stevebrot; 07-30-2020 at 05:21 PM.

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07-30-2020, 11:05 AM - 1 Like	#16
MossyRocks Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Minnesota Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,982	Originally posted by AstroDave At any rate, I've got all the files recovered, but that card goes in the bin. Good to hear and I would bin the card as well. The first time I have an issue with any flash memory I bin it. It is cheap and might as well be treated as consumable. Do you run redundant cards in the K-1 as that would in theory prevent the accidental loss if one card fails before the other. I do this with my cameras that have dual slots since it is cheap insurance.

07-30-2020, 12:01 PM - 1 Like	#17
Oldbayrunner Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 1,665	Trashing an SD card more often then not isn't really necessary. Usually doing a low level format can solve most errors with SD cards and render them back to excellent working conditions. A low level format not only erases data but also marks any bad sectors on the disk so files cannot be written to them. The SD Association has a specific software for use that wont erase the partitions cameras use so it is safe to format using this software on a computer. The software contains both a quick and low level format so read the manual on how to do a low level one..... SD Memory Card Formatter - SD Association

07-30-2020, 02:46 PM	#18
AstroDave Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: May 2007 Location: Flagstaff, Arizona Posts: 1,637 Original Poster	Originally posted by MossyRocks Do you run redundant cards in the K-1 as that would in theory prevent the accidental loss if one card fails before the other. I do this with my cameras that have dual slots since it is cheap insurance. Originally posted by Oldbayrunner A low level format not only erases data but also marks any bad sectors on the disk so files cannot be written to them. I've never bothered running two cards (getting the one closest to the door flap hinge out is a nuisance!), but that plus Oldbayrunner's low-level format might convince me to use the old card in parallel with a new one. (Still won't prevent stupid moves like taking the card out with the power on, although I guess if you take only one out at a time ... !) Thanks for the suggestions.

07-30-2020, 04:34 PM	#19
PDL Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PNW USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,127	Focal length is requested when using non-AF lenses. You set it once while the lens is in place and the device "remembers" the setting - for manual or non autofocus lenses. If you are shooting Astrotracker then focal length is necessary for that function to work. Using a manual focus lens, the camera needs the focal length to know how much to move the sensor during exposure. Simple enough to understand. If you want to disable the focal length part, just turn off SR. SR is the part that needs focal length so it can shift the sensor due to vibration. If you turn off SR when using Astrotracker, then you are fundamentally defeating the purpose of that function.

07-30-2020, 05:10 PM	#20
MossyRocks Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Minnesota Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,982	Originally posted by AstroDave I've never bothered running two cards (getting the one closest to the door flap hinge out is a nuisance!) That card mostly stays in the camera and is there just in case with my cameras.

07-31-2020, 04:17 AM	#22
Unregistered User Guest	I researched that issue once about the focal length request, and found out that the software running the camera requires that information for accurate metering or autofocus or both (can't remember now why, but I did satisfy myself that it's best to just answer the question when it pops up).

07-31-2020, 06:45 AM	#23
35mmfilmfan Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Norfolk, UK Posts: 4,329	I discovered a long time ago that if I don't set write-protect BEFORE putting the card in the card reader, Windows will write some hidden files to the card, which renders it unreadable in the camera (K20D). No idea whether this applies with any other OS, but these days I set it as soon as I remove the card, then double check before putting it in the card reader. I only use each card once, retiring it when it is 90-92% full, doing a full backup to go with the interim backups I do after each day's shooting.

07-31-2020, 10:02 AM	#24
Unregistered User Guest	Originally posted by 35mmfilmfan I discovered a long time ago that if I don't set write-protect BEFORE putting the card in the card reader, Windows will write some hidden files to the card, which renders it unreadable in the camera (K20D). No idea whether this applies with any other OS, but these days I set it as soon as I remove the card, then double check before putting it in the card reader. I only use each card once, retiring it when it is 90-92% full, doing a full backup to go with the interim backups I do after each day's shooting. That is determined by the format method (or "file system") applied to the card; if you format it with NTFS, that's what happens. I suggest formatting the card with ExFAT for a larger capacity card and FAT32 for smaller (4Gb or less).

07-31-2020, 01:05 PM	#25
35mmfilmfan Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Norfolk, UK Posts: 4,329	Originally posted by dlh That is determined by the format method (or "file system") applied to the card; if you format it with NTFS, that's what happens. I suggest formatting the card with ExFAT for a larger capacity card and FAT32 for smaller (4Gb or less). I always format the card in the camera - when I check properties on laptop, seems to think it's FAT32. Same with SDFormatter.

07-31-2020, 01:58 PM - 1 Like	#26
PDL Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PNW USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,127	If you connect a unlocked SD card to a Windows based device, it will write to the SD card as if it is a hard drive (which it essentially is). The OS will create a hidden folder "System Volume Information". This is the reason that when you are using either a internal card reader or another card reader you should lock the SD card. I do not connect my camera to the computer, so I can not say what that does. If your card reader does not support the lock on the SD card, then you should buy a better reader. It is always best to eject the SD card before removing the card from the computer/card reader. Always format the SD card in the camera, if you format it using the computer, those nasty hidden files will show up and the format may not be correct for the SD to use. Let the camera make that decision - that is why the format card function is there.

07-31-2020, 10:14 PM	#27
Not a Number Moderator Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Venice, CA Posts: 10,526	Originally posted by PDL If your card reader does not support the lock on the SD card, then you should buy a better reader In Windows you can set any disk to readonly with DISKPART Open a command window. Type: DISKPART At the DISKPART> prompt type: LIST DISK Provided no card is in the reader one of the listed disk should say "No Media" Select that disk with the command: SEL DISK <number of disk> Then type: ATTRIBUTE DISK SET READONLY the command to re-enable read/write is: ATTRIBUTE DISK CLEAR READONLY The card reader should now be readonly. Insert your card. When done open File Explorer and right click on the drive that is the card-card reader and pick eject. This ejects (detaches) the card. If you uses the "Safely Remove Hardware and Eject Media" icon from the taskbar, it ejects (detaches) the card reader and you won't be able to re-enable read-write. Be sure to eject and remove the card before turning off readonly. *Note: commands are shown in caps for clarity. Diskpart is case in-sensitive so it doesn't matter if all caps, all lower case or mixed.

08-01-2020, 05:13 PM	#28
PDL Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PNW USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,127	Originally posted by Not a Number In Windows you can set any disk to readonly with DISKPART Open a command window. Type: DISKPART -snip However, when you put the SD card into the reader and insert it into the computer, or connect the camera to the computer, the computer will write the hidden file to the disk. By the time you have typed in DISKPART the file is already there. The best way to do this is to have a card reader that supports the lock function. My SanDisk card readers (SDHC) and the readers on my 2008 Toshiba, 2018 Lenovo and 2010 Asus all support the lock switch. I have connected my camera to the computer via USB once in the entire time I have had Pentax DSLR's (it was on my *ist DS) just to see if it worked (this was long before Windows 10 and before the hidden file was SOP for Microsoft). Even my micro SD card adapters have a switch on them. However, since they are used only in my phone, I don't attach them to my computer at all. (Back in the day of my first 128MB SanDisk USB stick - remember those? - that bad boy had a lock switch on the side of it. Something I really wish they would bring back. At my job - early USB days - we called them "virus injectors" and they were banned from use while on campus)

08-01-2020, 06:18 PM	#29
larryaustin3 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Upstate New York Posts: 105	Card slot #1 on my K-3 stopped working and the SD card that was in it was damaged. I don't know if the card was damaged and then damaged the card slot or if the card slot damaged the card. Either way, that card slot doesn't work anymore.

08-01-2020, 07:08 PM	#30
PDL Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PNW USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,127	I have a physically damaged SanDisk 32GB card that does not work in slot 2 of my K-3II. It does work in slot 1. I talked with SanDisk about their warrantee and they said they do not cover cards that have been physically damaged. I still have the card, but I don't really use it. I have 5 32GB cards, enough for most of my shooting. (I carry four cards and rotate them as the #1 card gets full) My workflow is to do daily copies of the files shot for the day using the folders produced by the camera labeled by date onto a external SSD attached to my computer. When I process the images, I have two folders on the SSD, one set of files that have not been "processed" (have lens ID entered in via ExifTooGUI) and one that has been modified. I process the images in the field keeping the unprocessed files for use when I get back home on my desktop. So, my point, hopefully you have a few SD cards laying around so you can test them in the camera. If it is the SD card, depending on the vendor, you should be able to contact them for a replacement. I had SanDisk replace a 128GB micro SD that died while in my phone - and I mean it died. The phone just rebooted and started to complain that there was no SD card inserted, even my desktop would not detect the card when inserted. SanDisk sent me a new one under the lifetime warrantee.