There are some good observations above, though I will weigh in too. The EXIF metadata indicates that you were shooting RAW. That is a good thing, because it give you a lot of latitude in post-processing. The ITPC/XMP segment tells me that you are using Adobe Lightroom to process your DNG files. That is also a good thing, since Lightroom is very powerful and flexible. It also gives details of what was done in processing. While most of the camera settings are not longer in the version displayed with your post, there is still a good amount of useful information. Below are a few notes in regards to the second KP image.
The photo was taken earlier this week, fairly late in the day (~7:00 PM) with exposure settings
about three stops over what I would have expected for conditions Auto exposure was being used with no exposure compensation and it is difficult to see what in the frame would have fooled the meter to this extent. Center-weighted, rather than the more sophisticated multi-segment metering shared with the K-1 and K-3, was used. This, in itself is not an explanation, though I would suggest using multi-segment for general shooting. That 88K pixel evaluative RGB sensor is part of the reason for the KP's premium price and worth using.
Several comments were made above regarding manually set white balance. Since you are shooting RAW (DNG), that should not be a major problem in post processing except that Lightroom will use that setting as the base for its initial processing. I don't know what adjustments you might have made within Lightroom as part of your processing except that the final setting was 6200K with +46 tint applied. 6200K may have been appropriate for much of the frame, though less warming (lower number) might have been better. That aside, the +46 tint lends a pretty huge dose of magenta that masks other colors. Both the warming and the magenta are visible in the photo.
I suspect that the Lightroom settings reflected those from the camera and that those were accidental and not intended for this photo. Auto white balance is usually a good choice for natural light with the camera usually doing an excellent job. As hinted above, you have the choice when shooting RAW to change the white balance to whatever looks most natural to your eyes. Nothing in the white balance from the camera is permanently "baked" into the capture data.
The rest of the XMP looks to be standard Lightroom defaults. A lot could have been done here to rescue the shot using the Develop module. Suggestions are:
- Correct the bad white balance using either LR's "auto" feature or the WB "picker"
- Decrease exposure about 3 stops
- Increase contrast either with that slider or by judicious increase using the highlight slider. This should provide some pop.
- Add about 15 units of clarity and about 15 units of vibrance. Doing so will provide additional subtle contrast lift and also a subtle bump to local saturation.
- If needed, try judicious application of (global) saturation. A little goes a long way here. FWIW, I almost never use the saturation slider, preferring instead to add or subtract further down in the color adjustment panel.
At this point, the result should look a lot more like your intended photo. Of course, there is always more. I like to massage the contrast curve and color balance directly, but that comes with experience.
The big question might be why the base capture was flawed. Why it is overexposed is a puzzle. I would have expected the opposite based on the sun angle except that the distant shore area at center was probably quite dark from the squall. I suspect the white balance was either an accident or was left over from some earlier experiment or was part of a custom image setting accidentally applied.
I used the word "accident" several times, because it is possible to to apply some settings without intending to do so, usually with the base of the thumb on the right hand. At least is how it happens on the K-3/K-3II when such interacts with the 4-way controller. To help avoid accidents from carrying over to another session, I have my K-3 configured to revert to defaults when the camera is turned off for many settings and to "forget" those I don't want the camera to remember for general shooting. The magic is done using:
menu > Rec Mode 5 > Memory
Most are remembered by default, but several can be problematic if remembered. If one needs a particular combination of special settings, saving them to a dedicated user mode is very good.
I hope this helps. Have fun!
Steve
Originally posted by Wheatfield 
Post #9 by stevebrot
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