Mission accomplished. God, it was so easy. The key was found in these very forums:
Vivitar 100mm 2.8 need fixing.... - PentaxForums.com
After removing the aperture ring and the one adjacent to it, the rear element assembly was trivial to remove by manual unscrewing. Luckily, I was right about the location of the haze: it was on the element closest to the aperture diaphragm—and on the outer surface at that. Very easy to clean off, and there were in fact no scratches. The arcs seen in my photos must have been cleaning marks from a previous attempt. They wiped away along with the haze. The glass is now as clean as I could wish.
The cleaning has had no visible effect on image quality. As I had suspected, the haze was too thin to have any effect in the first place. But now I won't have to mention any haze if/when I decide to sell this lens on to the next curious george.
---------- Post added 10-10-20 at 11:18 PM ----------
Originally posted by stevebrot I spent some time trying to find repair guides/diagrams for you, but with no success.
Thanks for that!
---------- Post added 10-10-20 at 11:19 PM ----------
Originally posted by GUB I hear what others say about returning the lens if that is a valid option. But if not then take heart - here is the result from a Vivitar series 1 close focus 135mm f2.3 - another legendary lens. But also the only lens that I have taken to the rear element with toothpaste as a grinding paste to remove what appeared to be a coating of scale. Please realize though that was desperate measures not to be done unless as a final resort.
That's hilarious. And nice photo!
---------- Post added 10-10-20 at 11:24 PM ----------
Originally posted by GUB There is a pair of slots beside the actual rear element. You need a lens spanner to loosen via these slots. 1 Set Dual Tip Stainless Steel Lens Spanner Wrench Opening Tool for DSLR Cameras|Len Parts| - AliExpress
There should be no need to remove the mount.
I did notice those slots, and right though you may be, I feared that using a spanner on that retaining ring would do nothing more than loosen the rearmost element. That's why I wanted to remove the mount and aperture ring to expose the whole rear element assembly, because I suspected that it would just twist off by hand.