Originally posted by FlyingEagle Without adjusting the custom settings, boosting the low key and raising the contrast or post processing (too much time to do that) I get washed out images with low contrast. I have the same problem with 3d items using incandescent on my second lighting setup. Is this normal? Is it the lighting? I tried removing the uv filter without seeing any difference. See some samples below.
Originally posted by FlyingEagle Why are such drastic setting adjustments necessary?
Because the original exposure was inadequate (not enough light to the sensor to support the desired tonal range).
The custom image feature is sort of evil, though it did allow you to get something approaching black while boosting the whites by leveraging its limits.
My suggestion is to use manual exposure with daylight WB and shoot in RAW, placing exposure to an are you want to render as bright white (use spot metering with histogram chimping to place the high value peak to the right). This should only need to be done, at most, once per magazine. Let your camera capture as much information as is in the frame and adjust as needed in post. That last might be most easily done with profiles appropriate to the most common types of documents you see. Most software allows batch application of profiles.
Back to the custom settings; even with parameter adjustments they are too unpredictable in that the effect varies by subject and are a processing effect only (do not result in changes to exposure). They also apply to JPEG only, resulting in more difficult PP. FWIW, High/Low Key adjust results in a decrease in contrast. Also note that "Bright" or "Radiant" (Bright's more impressive brother) does not mean brighter
per se. It means differential increase to color values may result in perception of higher contrast without changing the actual gray-tone value range in the frame.
Good luck!
Steve
Last edited by stevebrot; 11-01-2020 at 05:06 PM.
Reason: clarity and completeness