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11-24-2020, 02:59 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by khurtwilliams Quote
If the scene metering if off, I wouldn't know until the film was developed. But if I didn't trust the camera, application of the Sunny 16 technique and manual exposure would resolve the issue. Would it not?
I guess much depends on depth of experience and whether one has read the camera manual. The manuals in most cameras having built-in meters cover problems of strong backlight and/or excessive sky. I learned early in my experience that if I was not intending a silhouette, stepping forward to meter the shadowed face would take care of the problem as might simply setting for a stop or more additional exposure. (I learned the craft before exposure automation was the norm.) With exposure automation, one must learn to work with that automation or switch to manual mode. Exposure comp is similar to the increasing exposure in M mode, while AE lock to meter from a face or gray card reference are equivalent to manual technique. Sunny 16 (placing exposure by rule of eye and experience) was a fallback for when the meter died or if the camera was meterless.


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11-24-2020, 03:49 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by williko Quote
hello friends - im here for the first time..... on friday I bought a new K1MII - without lenses..... I own already a lot of glas I used with K70 and K01.... and I got even two limited FA 31 and FA42..... what is your opinion (those who already have experience with K1M2 - what do you think I should have ..... With my K70 I have 3 good Zoom-lenses 16-50 / 18-135 and 55-300 but I guess, they are not really compatible with the nex full-frame... ?
Should this not be another separate thread?
11-24-2020, 05:12 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by khurtwilliams Quote
If the scene metering if off, I wouldn't know until the film was developed.
With experience, you would know. Dark subjects with bright backgrounds (black cat in the snow) tend to be underexposed, and light subjects with dark backgrounds (white cat in a coal cellar) tend to be over-exposed.
QuoteOriginally posted by khurtwilliams Quote
But if I didn't trust the camera, application of the Sunny 16 technique and manual exposure would resolve the issue. Would it not?
Sunny 16 only works when it is sunny. You can guess an allowance for cloudy weather, but the rule really falls apart in dull conditions.
11-24-2020, 08:09 PM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by williko Quote
hello friends - im here for the first time..... on friday I bought a new K1MII - without lenses..... I own already a lot of glas I used with K70 and K01.... and I got even two limited FA 31 and FA42..... what is your opinion (those who already have experience with K1M2 - what do you think I should have ..... With my K70 I have 3 good Zoom-lenses 16-50 / 18-135 and 55-300 but I guess, they are not really compatible with the nex full-frame... ?
you should open a new thread so that your introduction and question get some more attention

11-25-2020, 09:39 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
With experience, you would know. Dark subjects with bright backgrounds (black cat in the snow) tend to be underexposed, and light subjects with dark backgrounds (white cat in a coal cellar) tend to be over-exposed.

Sunny 16 only works when it is sunny. You can guess an allowance for cloudy weather, but the rule really falls apart in dull conditions.
I think Sunny 16 works under any condition.

Photography Essentials: The Sunny 16 Rule
11-26-2020, 02:38 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by khurtwilliams Quote
I think Sunny 16 works under any condition.
The Sunny 16 rule is simply that in sunny summer mid-day sort of weather ("holiday snapshot" conditions) the best exposure estimate is to set the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the film speed, and the lens aperture to F16. Of course you can use it as the starting point to estimate exposure for other conditions, which is what that article does and which I also suggested, but that does not make it part of the rule. The daylight level in cloudy conditions can vary by orders of magnitude depending on time of day and cloud thickness, especially where I live in the Welsh hills, but by all means use that chart in an emergency.

FWIW, in my teens my father gave me an old camera and with it a Johnson's exposure calculator. It was like a circular slide rule and you dialed in all sorts of factors of which film speed and cloud conditions were only two. It also wanted to know the type of scene, time of year, and time of day. It took half a minute to get a result.

Johnson's - Antique and Vintage Cameras


Last edited by Lord Lucan; 11-26-2020 at 02:39 AM. Reason: Clarity
11-26-2020, 10:26 AM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by khurtwilliams Quote
I think Sunny 16 works under any condition.
Nope...you are confusing Sunny 16 with exposure estimation based on conditions.

QuoteOriginally posted by Lord Lucan Quote
The Sunny 16 rule is simply that in sunny summer mid-day sort of weather ("holiday snapshot" conditions) the best exposure estimate is to set the shutter speed to the reciprocal of the film speed, and the lens aperture to F16.
This ^ ^ ^ ...A happy coincidence of film speed convention and nothing more.

BTW...love those old slide-type calculators, that and extinction meters. Both actually work quite well.


Steve

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