[khurtwilliams]

I want to start using my Pentax P3 (the kit I bought in 1988 for college) for street photography but it does not have aperture-priority auto-exposure. So I pan to upgrade to the Pentax P3n which does.

I was hoping to find a “normal” (between 40-43mm) prime lens for the KA mount. But I don’t know what Pentax lenses will work.

Are Pentax-A (aka. KA) lens K-mount lens? What about DA and KAF lens? I’m so confused.

Suggestions?

[aslyfox]

I suggest you review these charts:

Pentax K-Mount Lens Series Explained: The differences between various Pentax lens series


In a nutshell
There are several series of Pentax K-mount lenses; the ones currently being produced include the DA (digital), DA L (cheap digital kit), D FA (full-frame, digital optimized), and FA (full-frame) series. While all Pentax K-mount lenses ever produced are compatible with all current Pentax DSLRs (in some cases with restrictions in that not all exposure modes of the camera are supported by old lenses), there are significant differences between each lens series and each has different features. Furthermore some of the newer lenses do not work with older cameras. We'll be exploring the differences between the various K-mount series lenses in this article. . . .

Pentax K-Mount Lenses Explained: The differences between various Pentax lens series

________________

Pentax K-mount Lens Compatibility Chart
Copyright 2006-2020 Mosphotos.com. All rights reserved.

Pentax bayonet lenses labeled "SMC Pentax" are referred to as "K" lenses in the table below. Other Pentax bayonet lenses have the lens designation as a part of their name as in "SMC Pentax-FA".
Note that "star" lenses work like their "non-star" counterparts unless they are singled out in the table below. So for compatibility of a DA* lens which is not singled out, look under DA lenses, etc.
Exceptions: FA and F "soft" lenses behave like M lenses in terms of metering.

The Pentax K-mount Camera Lens Compatibility Chart

[WhatsMyNameAD67]

Out of your range, but listing regardless, I like the SMC A 35mm f2.8.Also, not a prime, but still good is the SMC A 24-50mm f4, which gets you into you’re desired range.

[Not a Number]

Short answer: K-mount series: K, M, A, AF, F, FA, FA J, DA, DA L, D-FA

DA lenses are for digital crop sensors and the image circle may not cover the full film frame on the P3/P3n. The latest KAF4 lenses lack an aperture lever and the aperture cannot be set on older digital and film bodies. See the compatibility chart linked below.

These may help:
The Evolution of the Pentax K-mount - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

The Pentax K-mount Camera Lens Compatibility Chart

[stevebrot]

But I don’t know what Pentax lenses will work.

The short answer is any lens with an aperture ring will give you at least M and aperture-priority AE. Those with both an aperture ring and contacts on the mount will add program AE. Those without an aperture ring are limited to program AE.

My suggestions for street photography in Av mode?

• Pentax-M 40/2.8 (pancake)
• Pentax-FA 43/1.8 Limited (small, sweet, and $$$)
• Pentax-M or A 35/2.8

The K, A, and M version 35/2.0 are bulky to my taste, but are also options.

Options from Ricoh, Vivitar, Cosina, and others should not be ruled out. https://www.pentaxforums.com/userreviews/


Steve

[angelo9978]

Pentax 43mm limited for the pixie dust. There’s some good deals now and then used for then

[aslyfox]

if interested in " experienced " lenses, don't forget the forums' marketplace " buy/sell "

you can sort it by country:

The Pentax Marketplace | Buy & Sell Pentax Cameras and Lenses (United States) - PentaxForums.com

[khurtwilliams]

The short answer is any lens with an aperture ring will give you at least M and aperture-priority AE. Those with both an aperture ring and contacts on the mount will add program AE. Those without an aperture ring are limited to program AE.

My suggestions for street photography in Av mode?

• Pentax-M 40/2.8 (pancake)
• Pentax-FA 43/1.8 Limited (small, sweet, and $$$)
• Pentax-M or A 35/2.8

The K, A, and M version 35/2.0 are bulky to my taste, but are also options.

Options from Ricoh, Vivitar, Cosina, and others should not be ruled out. Pentax Lenses by Sigma, Tamron, Zeiss, and more - Reviews and Specification Database - Pentax Lens Review Database


Steve

Thank you. I think the Pentax-M 40/2.8 might do the trick.

---------- Post added 11-06-20 at 10:00 PM ----------

Thank you all for your help and the links. The Pentax K-mount Lens Compatibility Chart was just what I needed!!!! Thank you.

[pres589]

When I look at Pentax bodies from that era I get annoyed. A body that sets ISO via DX coding only and on the P3n there's no EV compensation either? Can't give the operator full control over the aperture directly through a user interface but instead through an aperture ring that by the A series lenses often wasn't that reliable mechanically through reduced build quality.


I think I would go for a Super Program over the cameras like the P3 or P3N. I've toyed with the idea of getting one for use with my DA 40 XS and if the shooting experience isn't too bad adding a DA 70 + something for the wide end. But I think I'm happier staying with the cameras I already own like the Ricoh XR7 or Chinon CE-4. That's really what I would recommend; skip the P3's and such and get a Ricoh XR7.

[Lowell Goudge]

I want to start using my Pentax P3 (the kit I bought in 1988 for college) for street photography but it does not have aperture-priority auto-exposure. So I pan to upgrade to the Pentax P3n which does.

I was hoping to find a “normal” (between 40-43mm) prime lens for the KA mount. But I don’t know what Pentax lenses will work.

Are Pentax-A (aka. KA) lens K-mount lens? What about DA and KAF lens? I’m so confused.

Suggestions?

You have the answers for the lens and mounts, but I would suggest getting a PZ-1. Ok it’s a little bigger, but it does everything you would want for your present shooting, and is a very good AF body if you decide to add more different lenses later.

[stevebrot]

I think I would go for a Super Program over the cameras like the P3 or P3N.

The Super Program works the same way for Av and Manual. In all fairness, while the P3n lacks exposure comp, it does feature AE lock, a first, I believe, for Pentax cameras. FWIW, my XR7 has both exposure comp and AE lock and I don't believe I have used EC in the 38 years I have been shooting with that camera. The AE lock provides much better control and is much more useful for many tasks, e.g. metering off a gray card. I also strongly recommend the XR7.

I totally agree regarding DX being a strong reason to not go with the P3N. That said, the matter of the aperture ring weakness on the A series lenses is limited to the 50/1.7 and 50/2.0 and was not a problem until the plastic parts grew brittle with age.


Steve

[stevebrot]

You have the answers for the lens and mounts, but I would suggest getting a PZ-1. Ok it’s a little bigger, but it does everything you would want for your present shooting, and is a very good AF body if you decide to add more different lenses later.

OP is purchasing for street photography. Both size and AF are not helpful.


Steve

[Lowell Goudge]

OP is purchasing for street photography. Both size and AF are not helpful.


Steve

Understood, I was thinking future not single task body, that’s all

[pres589]

The Super Program works the same way for Av and Manual. In all fairness, while the P3n lacks exposure comp, it does feature AE lock, a first, I believe, for Pentax cameras. FWIW, my XR7 has both exposure comp and AE lock and I don't believe I have used EC in the 38 years I have been shooting with that camera. The AE lock provides much better control and is much more useful for many tasks, e.g. metering off a gray card. I also strongly recommend the XR7.

I totally agree regarding DX being a strong reason to not go with the P3N. That said, the matter of the aperture ring weakness on the A series lenses is limited to the 50/1.7 and 50/2.0 and was not a problem until the plastic parts grew brittle with age.


Steve

No exposure compensation AND no direct control over film ISO = a problem. Give me DX only (still stupid) but also give me a +/- 4 EV comp and I could deal most of the time. If they just let the user manually set ISO from something well below 50 to 3200 or greater that would be fine. My Chinon's work that way, pretending that the ISO control knob doubles as an exposure compensation control, which works if one wants to think about it that way. AE lock is nice for sure.


The problem with the A 50 1.7's aperture ring being plastic that fails over time is how good the actual lens is. "Here's a Leica competitor class lens, oh wait, we kind of cheaped out in a stupid way that is extremely easily avoidable" is not a great move in my book.


The answer is clearly Chinon CP-7m. I kind of want to get one and I kind of want to just skip it all together.

[Not a Number]

The problem with the A 50 1.7's aperture ring being plastic that fails over time is how good the actual lens is.

It's not so much that the ring fails but rather the plastic posts that the two leaf springs for the "A" button failing. The springs are on plastic posts which are melted to form a sort of rivet head to hold the spring in place. This is a very common technique used in consumer electronics. If you look at the cover or door of a battery compartment odds are the electrical contacts are fastened with the very same method.

The problem is there is constant strain on the "rivet head" due to the nature of the spring and if the "head" is too thin in places it eventually breaks. Over the years I've had many battery powered devices (like portable reel-to-reel or cassette tape recorders) with battery contacts of the same design failing in the same manner. The fix is pretty much the same. If there is enough material, remelt the post and mush it down to form a new "head" and hope there is enough material for it to not break again. Or tap a hole for a screw or metal rivet that can be glued in.