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02-02-2021, 12:10 PM   #1
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Time for a new camera? or lens?

I have a k-r. When I first got it, it seemed to take pretty sharp pictures. However, the quality is definitely declining. I'm using the same lenses, the kit lens and a tamron af 70-300m. Many times when I use it, it doesn't seem to be able to focus. It just keeps zooming in and out without focusing. Do you think it's the camera or the lens? If I need to buy a new camera, which one would you recommend? I'm not a professional photographer, obviously. I take a lot of pictures outside of flowers, landscapes and animals. I also take a lot of sports, mainly soccer, pictures.

02-02-2021, 12:21 PM - 1 Like   #2
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Welcome to the forums

you will find friendly members and a lot of knowledge here

some of us love to advise you on how you should spend your money on cameras and lenses

some questions for you

what is your budget

are you looking for " experienced " or new

have you looked under " cameras " for " in depth " reviews and " users " reviews yet

have you found the camera comparison tool there

thanks for indicating your photographic interests

if you are not interested in new I suggest looking for a member of the K 3 or K 5 families

if your budget allows it, consider possibly getting hands on experience by renting gear

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/137-photographic-industry-professionals/...ml#post4542890
02-02-2021, 12:33 PM - 1 Like   #3
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Welcome. If both lenses exhibit the erratic focusing, the fault is probably in the camera. You can try cleaning the contacts on the lens mount. It might help (or not).
02-02-2021, 12:41 PM - 2 Likes   #4
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If it is happening with both lenses, perhaps it's the camera, or perhaps the electrical contacts on the mount and lenses. First thing is to clean those.

Does it always fail to lock focus, or just sometimes? And most importantly, do you shoot using the viewfinder or the rear screen (Liveview). The focus process in each is different. If shooting via the viewfinder, you are using Phase Detect Autofocus (PDAF). In Liveview you are using Contrast Detect Autofocus (CDAF). They are very different. It would be interesting to know whether your difficulties occur in both scenarios or only one.

Do you have your focus set on AF.S? If it is set to AF.C (C for continuous) the focus continually adjusts as you pan or the scene changes. Make sure you have AF.S selected for the moment, to test.

Also, I suggest using single spot focus for the moment, to try to diagnose any issue.

Simple reasons for focus failure can include a scene with very little detail to lock onto or with very little contrast. I have also seen focus failure with a dirty or dusty front lens element, especially in bright light, where scattering may confuse it. So try cleaning your lens front element using an approved cleaning cloth and lens cleaning fluid.

Please let us know how you go.

02-02-2021, 12:46 PM - 2 Likes   #5
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Digital sensors don't really decline in sharpness much unless it has been abused (think long unprotected exposure of the sun with a telephoto). I would instead look at other causes for the decline in sharpness. Some things that come to mind are an absolutely dirty sensor so maybe see about getting a good cleaning of that. While getting that done clean the PDAF sensor area too to ensure that there aren't some dust bunnies hanging around there messing things up for you. If you have never gotten things clean out this would be a good start.

After that I would look at things like your lenses needing the AF fine adjustment done. Things may have been pretty good but after years of use and getting bounced around those original settings, if any, may need to be adjusted.

If you have ruled the above out and find that stopping things down to f/8 still gives bad results I would start looking at the lens. Things like play in the focusing, flex in the lens barrel when zooming. and in general things not being tight and well dampened. I have had one lens that after years of use and abuse just could not hold a focus anymore. When I acquired it it wasn't in the best shape but over time the amount of play in the helicoid just kept on increasing until there was a noticeable change in focus from holding the lens to letting it go. By this I mean I could see the end of the lens move a few mm after focusing while it was on a rock solid tripod. In this case it is the lens is at fault and for me my solution was to get a new to me S-M-C 28/3.5. That was one of the old metal body M42 Takumars so lasing 50+ years was probably a pretty good run given the shape I got it in 20 years ago and the abuse I gave it over my ownership. However newer plastic body lenses I doubt are as robust so they may just simple be worn out.
02-02-2021, 12:54 PM - 2 Likes   #6
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Possibly dust on the AF sensor (assuming its just happening with the OVF. I suggest searching for some posts on how to clean AF sensor (sorry I can't remember where it is off the top my head).

That said upgrading the K-r to a more recent body like the K-p would be a significant step up.
02-02-2021, 01:24 PM - 3 Likes   #7
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If you can comfortably afford it, I would advise upgrading bodies even if nothing is wrong with your current one. Anything newer is going to be WR, a real Pentaprism and have two control wheels; all game changers for me. The K-70 is the low-cost new option; the KP is not much more and a "better" camera in many ways.

A used K5 would seem like a huge upgrade, though, as would a used K3, provided you can get one in good shape. I'd avoid a K30/K50 just because of the prevalence of the aperture block problem. A used KS2 might be a good buy if you can find a nice one for cheap.

02-02-2021, 01:33 PM - 2 Likes   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Kozlok Quote
If you can comfortably afford it, I would advise upgrading bodies even if nothing is wrong with your current one. Anything newer is going to be WR, a real Pentaprism and have two control wheels; all game changers for me. The K-70 is the low-cost new option; the KP is not much more and a "better" camera in many ways.

A used K5 would seem like a huge upgrade, though, as would a used K3, provided you can get one in good shape. I'd avoid a K30/K50 just because of the prevalence of the aperture block problem. A used KS2 might be a good buy if you can find a nice one for cheap.
I whole heartily agree. And if you could swing the K-70 or KP and a 55-300PLM lens, you would be floored by how good and fast the autofocus could be. I wish I had that combination when I shot a lot of soccer. I would have had a lot more quality shots.
02-02-2021, 02:21 PM - 2 Likes   #9
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You've got some great advice here already.

Definitely test out the camera and each lens as Paul and MossyRocks and Kiwi_jono suggested. Maybe it's a simple fix like the contacts or maybe the kit needs some cleaning. If you are not confident about cleaning the insides yourself (the focus screen in the camera in particular is a bit tricky), you can get a camera shop to do it for you.

But plastic-barrelled zoom lenses like the 18-55 and Tamron 70-300 do often become loose over time (especially if you are in the habit of putting the camera and lens down while still extended, something many of us are prone to do!). When the lens is extended the barrels will seem a bit wobbly. This will often affect focusing and the quality of the images. If you have used them a lot for 10 years that's a pretty good run from cheap lenses.

If the answer is that you really do need a replacement for the lens(es)/camera, come back with a budget as @Aslyfox suggested. I agree with the comments of @Kozlok and @Ramseybuckeye but really the budget (together with shooting preferences, which you have already specified) is the governing factor. If your budget would run to it, a K-70 with a Pentax DA 18-135mm and 55-300mm PLM lens would be extremely capable and great value. But if not, there are plenty of other combinations that could be tailored to your budget.

I'll just throw this in too. Do you think a DSLR is still your best choice? Compact cameras with wide-ranging fixed lenses (e.g. Panasonic Lumix ZS200) have come a long way. You are not heavily invested so you could change if you want.

There are compromises with any type of camera so the answer is not one-size-fits-all. Do you love a big viewfinder? Don't mind changing lenses? Content with the weight and bulk of a two-lens DSLR kit? Familiar with and love the Pentax controls? Shoot a lot in low light? Use flash? Do you shoot in RAW and process images or use jpg photos out of the camera? Might help if you describe your preferences and use.

Last edited by Des; 02-02-2021 at 02:28 PM.
02-02-2021, 05:09 PM - 1 Like   #10
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RE: comments on upgrading camera and my experience.
-- I used two K-x and two K-5 for theatre photography for maybe a decade, and the K-x (and thus K-r) and k-5 are quite close in sensor performance. Close in sensor mp, both can do 13"x19" fine. For that I don't think an upgrade does much.
-- The K-5 is superb in controls and build quality, the K-x/K-r not very good.
-- Never did AF w/ the K-x and hardly ever with the K-5. Except for static images I doubt either are very usable. (For that I use something else than Pentax.)**

_____
** To be fair, the AF ability may be much better with the later K-5 models, and then K-3. There you need others' experience.

Last edited by dms; 02-02-2021 at 05:14 PM.
02-02-2021, 05:50 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Paul the Sunman Quote
If it is happening with both lenses, perhaps it's the camera, or perhaps the electrical contacts on the mount and lenses. First thing is to clean those.

Does it always fail to lock focus, or just sometimes? And most importantly, do you shoot using the viewfinder or the rear screen (Liveview). The focus process in each is different. If shooting via the viewfinder, you are using Phase Detect Autofocus (PDAF). In Liveview you are using Contrast Detect Autofocus (CDAF). They are very different. It would be interesting to know whether your difficulties occur in both scenarios or only one.

Do you have your focus set on AF.S? If it is set to AF.C (C for continuous) the focus continually adjusts as you pan or the scene changes. Make sure you have AF.S selected for the moment, to test.

Also, I suggest using single spot focus for the moment, to try to diagnose any issue.

Simple reasons for focus failure can include a scene with very little detail to lock onto or with very little contrast. I have also seen focus failure with a dirty or dusty front lens element, especially in bright light, where scattering may confuse it. So try cleaning your lens front element using an approved cleaning cloth and lens cleaning fluid.

Please let us know how you go.
Thank you. It doesn't always fail to lock focus. However, even when it does the pictures just don't seem very sharp anymore. I shoot using the viewfinder. I will look into your other suggestions and also
do a better cleaning of it.
02-02-2021, 06:59 PM - 1 Like   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by mom2mny Quote
Thank you. It doesn't always fail to lock focus. However, even when it does the pictures just don't seem very sharp anymore. I shoot using the viewfinder. I will look into your other suggestions and also
do a better cleaning of it.
Can you tell if it is consistently front-focusing or back-focusing? If so, a simple focus adjustment may be all you need. See page 128 of the K-r manual.
02-02-2021, 10:39 PM - 1 Like   #13
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Since you've been having frequent difficulty getting your lenses to focus, and then you've simultaneously noticed a decline in sharpness, this coincidence implies faulty focusing being at the heart of the decline in sharpness. When your camera indicates focus is achieved, you may actually be getting inaccurate focus.

I also think you'd be well-served in getting a major upgrade that will hold its value and will be durable for years to come. I shot with the K-r for a number of years. Nice little camera, as far as that goes. Then I upgraded to a K-S2, which is definitely better, and then later to the KP. A KP and also the DA 18-135mm DC WR lens will really do it for you as a big upgrade. Both camera and lens constitute a big step up in quality and in AF performance like you have never experienced. Everything will be far better- image quality, controls, build, performance, viewfinder, autofocus, and features. its build quality, metal construction- lightweight but strong magnesium alloy, is of professional caliber, and you don't find this quality at the prices that lately can be had for this model! If you like shooting high quality JPEGs, the KP's processor is exceptionally good for great quality right out of the camera. Just remember, avoid having your mode dial set on the "auto" position, as this will disable most or all the controls you have paid to get. Use the "P" mode instead for fully automatic exposure. Then go into the Custom Image menus to set up "Fine Sharpening" especially in the standard Bright" category, which is most often used. If your budget can swing it, definitely worth doing.
02-03-2021, 09:34 AM - 2 Likes   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by mom2mny Quote
I have a k-r. When I first got it, it seemed to take pretty sharp pictures. However, the quality is definitely declining. I'm using the same lenses, the kit lens and a tamron af 70-300m. Many times when I use it, it doesn't seem to be able to focus. It just keeps zooming in and out without focusing. Do you think it's the camera or the lens? If I need to buy a new camera, which one would you recommend? I'm not a professional photographer, obviously. I take a lot of pictures outside of flowers, landscapes and animals. I also take a lot of sports, mainly soccer, pictures.
You should consider whether you were happy with your camera/lens performance before it seemed to degrade. I'm happy with my Pentax for landscapes, but since unlike some of us you don't seem to have an extensive array of equipment locking you into the Pentax ecosystem, you might want to consider other alternatives - which you mostly won't hear about here for obvious reasons. For example if I were more interested in sports or action, Pentax would probably not be my first choice. I don't have enough personal experience with other camera systems to say for sure, but starting nearly from scratch I'd consider other brands, some of which you may be able to actually try out locally (which for most of us isn't possible with Pentax.) Obviously speed/accuracy of AF and lens availability is one issue, but another feature I'd like for macro is automatic focus bracketing. You have more of a blank slate than most of us so you should take advantage of that.
02-03-2021, 12:12 PM - 1 Like   #15
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Could the cause of the lackluster AF performance be a misalignment of the little mirror (behind the big mirror) that projects the image onto the sensor at the bottom of the mirror box?

---------- Post added 2021-02-03 at 21:18 ----------

To answer the question posed in the title. It is always time for a new lens. A new camera is needed good to have about once every two years.
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