[TwoUptons]

For $1000 CAD at that kind of job, I think I would do things a little differently...
I'd pick up one of the modern bridge cameras, or even one of the small-sensor compacts with big zoom ranges - gets decent photos right now without much learning curve. One advantage there is since nobody has updated their model lines much lately, the 2-year-old ones are the same as the new ones...
A decent pair of binoculars - for when seeing is more important that the photos or for when the batteries die...
And an older SLR, film or digital, to learn with. (I'd personally go old school, with something like a Pentax MX, but there are many other options...the K5ii is a decent choice)

I will agree that those cheap 500mm lenses (and the others of their ilk) aren't worth it, though.

You'll probably want to fiddle around and see where things work and where things don't, explore how much hassle you're willing to endure for your photos and how much quality you need.

Maybe even find a friend who has fancy gear and borrow it (or rent some for special occasions -- I have a friend who goes to an air race every year, and he rents gear for that; he doesn't want the hassle of owning it...)

-Eric

[mikesbike]

Low light performance is ideal, but I understand I can't get everything with my budget. I would like to stake out birds at dusk and dawn if my camera permits though.

Used KP (great build quality for years of use, great imaging including low light with high ISO performance) with the DA 55-300mm PLM lens new. You will get very high quality, fast and accurate autofocus, (AF), and there are bound to be some lightly-used pre-owned KP offerings turning up maybe right here in the marketplace, or in Amazon Canada, or in one of Canada's premium camera marketers, because of the recent arrival of the new Pentax K-3 III. Some KP owners might be selling theirs to get this new $2,000 USD camera. The DA 55-300mm has an advantage over a longer telephoto lens at times, because it offers the shorter 55mm also. You can crop your image afterwards to get the same resultant image size as if you had used a longer lens than 300mm, but if your lens is too long you cannot expand 1/2 bird into a full bird afterwards. So this lens is more versatile. You might not always need that much telephoto in all circumstances.

Since you are totally new to photography, after getting your equipment, just keep in touch with us for pointers. When You first get your camera, do avoid setting the exposure mode dial on "Auto" which disables many controls and disallows many adjustments, but instead use the "P" (Program) setting which is likewise for fully automated exposure by the camera, but will allow the user to access controls and adjustments. It will also allow access to the exclusive Pentax Hyper System, which is a super-fast system of user-controlled override during the automated shooting to make virtually instant adjustments on the fly. No other manufacturer has anything like this.

You will have a lot to learn, and a top-quality Pentax DSLR, the newer the model, the better, is a wonderful tool! You are in a great environment to learn in, and it will be fun. The KP is of top-quality with a very durable build and outstanding low light performance, yet relatively compact. It can deliver great results, even right out of the camera with no post-processing. This will let you concentrate on just learning photography.

[mikesbike]

Another thing regarding Pentax DSLR equipment, every model less than 10 years old features weather-resistant construction (WR) so if you are shooting and some light rain comes, you have no worries. Same with many of the lenses, including the DA 55-300mm PLM. Your WR camera is actually only WR active if there is a WR lens attached. Just get your shots in, then get under some coverage and wipe everything off. With Canon or Nikon, in order to get WR you have to shop (new price) in the $1,000 + minimum price for the camera body, and again the same for a WR lens!

As far as carrying, I generally carry my camera/lens in a hip holster-type case. This works well for me. I have several in varying sizes, depending on the size lens I will be using. When shopping, make sure it is for DSLR not mirrorless (which are smaller) and that it has both rear belt loops and the shoulder strap. The cross-shoulder strap is for stability, while the belt loop arrangement eliminates swing. A mid-size would work fine for your ensemble. But if you prefer a sling type or back-back that's fine too, but with my holster-type I have ready access to unzip and draw out the camera as the need arises.

You can determine from your experience what kind of shorter lens you might require. It is easier on the pocketbook to buy what is needed over time instead of all at once.