[AfterPentax Mark II]

For some reason, the camera keeps defaulting to ISO 3200. I set the maximum at 800, but it's still going to high ISOs.

I guess that you set auto iso to maximum of 800 iso. But what mode are you using? Auto, P? The first picture you used a creative program and it uses iso 3200, the second one you used shutter priority and there you used iso 800. So the problem lies perhaps in using the wrong mode that you get the wrong iso value.

[PKSiss]

Yeah, generally after f/11 or so the sharpness starts to degrade noticeably. By f/27 on an APS-C camera (like the KP or K-70, which I have and like a whole bunch) it can be pretty bad.

Regarding the bumblebee photo, generally I find that I need to shoot around 1/750s to keep the bee sharp, unless I can ready see that it is resting. The smaller the subject is in your viewfinder, the more you can "cheat" and reduce your shutter speed.

I have literally thousands of throw-away photos over the years from learning the best combinations of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO for various subjects in various conditions. I think it's one of those things where the more you shoot, the more you get a feel for the best settings.

Thank you so much to everyone who weighed in for helping me with this. All of it is very useful and has caused the steepest rise of my learning curve since I bought the camera. I have, in fact, been using a UV filter -- left over dogma from my film photography days, I fear -- and had no idea about the limitations of aperture with the zooms I have been using. Or about the 1.5 rule for shutter speed. I am indeed a newby. I have been shooting centerspot focus in AF-S and recomposing. After I figure out everything else, I suppose I will jump into using the other focus modes. I do not yet own a tripod, but you all have convinced me that it is a worthy next purchase. I'm realizing I have an affinity for macrophotography and plan to someday add the 100 mm macro lens to the repertoire. I'm holding off on any news lenses, though, until I have the camera figured out. Again, thank you all for the great advice!

[UncleVanya]

Thank you so much to everyone who weighed in for helping me with this. All of it is very useful and has caused the steepest rise of my learning curve since I bought the camera. I have, in fact, been using a UV filter -- left over dogma from my film photography days, I fear -- and had no idea about the limitations of aperture with the zooms I have been using. Or about the 1.5 rule for shutter speed. I am indeed a newby. I have been shooting centerspot focus in AF-S and recomposing. After I figure out everything else, I suppose I will jump into using the other focus modes. I do not yet own a tripod, but you all have convinced me that it is a worthy next purchase. I'm realizing I have an affinity for macrophotography and plan to someday add the 100 mm macro lens to the repertoire. I'm holding off on any news lenses, though, until I have the camera figured out. Again, thank you all for the great advice!

Good to hear. A few things:

1) a protective filter can be useful, mostly in conditions where something may get on the lens - like sea spray or near hot springs. The negative effects are controversial for using a filter, The most conclusive data I have seen and recreated for myself is that telephoto shots can suffer a sharpness loss using them.

2) sharpness and aperture are best thought of like a bell curve, softer wide open… sharper stopped down a couple of stops… softer after that generally. More specially, f5.6-8 is the sweet spot for apsc sensors on most lenses. Depth of field does get better with more stopped down apertures but balancing these is the trick.

3) I still typically use center point and recompose. Unless your depth of field is very narrow and the subject is fairly close it works fine.

4) Macro can be fun. There are many cheap options to get your feet wet. Ask questions before you spend hard earned cash on anything. Describe your goals and budget options and opinions will fly at you. Look at online images and read sites dedicated to the topic like this one: Extreme Macro Photography

[Des]

I forgot to welcome you to PF. As you can see, there is a wealth of experience available here which people are happy to share. There are no dumb questions. We have all started out feeling overwhelmed at times.

Or about the 1.5 rule for shutter speed.

This is an adaptation of a rule of thumb you might remember from handheld shooting with a 35mm film camera, 1/focal length (e.g. 1/200th for 200mm). The 1.5x adaptation arises because the field of view (FOV) with an APS-C camera like the KP (16mm x 24mm sensor) is narrower - for example a shot with a lens at 200mm will have about the same FOV as a shot with a film SLR using 35mm film (or a full frame digital camera like the K-1ii, which has a 24mm x 36mm sensor) with a lens at 300mm. So on the KP at 200mm, the starting point would be 1/300th (1/320th would be the nearest available approximation), the counterpart of using a 300mm lens on a film SLR (or FF digital camera).

With Shake Reduction (also known as In-body image stabilization, or IBIS), this is a conservative approach, especially at wider focal lengths. With practice, and good technique (that article again!), SR will allow you to get sharp images fairly reliably at much slower shutter speeds than the rule of thumb would suggest. I've been amazed by the 5-axis SR on the KP (one of many advantages it has over the K-70). But take it in little steps, trying slower speeds where necessary as you get more confident.

For wildlife (including insects) the main shutter speed limitation is often the movement of the subject (rather than movement of the camera/lens). With perched birds, there will often be a moment where they are absolutely still and a slow shutter can work, but for birds in flight (BIF - it's a thing!), for example, it is hard to crib - if you want to freeze the motion, even panning the camera to follow the bird, 1/640th sec would be the absolute minimum, and that would be for a large slow-flying bird like a pelican - even then I would go faster if practicable. I have a preset user mode for BIF in my KP, using Tv (shutter priority) at 1/1250th (using a focal length between 300mm and 420mm, the longest I have), and I will bump that up further if the light permits. (@Luftluss was making much the same point about the speed for an insect in flight.)

Your friend's advice that SR can cause blur might be referring to using the camera on a tripod. Then it should be off (the camera does this automatically if you use the timer or lock up the mirror.) For handheld shooting, I would always leave it on. There are some who say that at high shutter speeds (e.g. 1/1250th or faster) it may be counterproductive, but I have never seen any proof of this and my own experience doesn't support it, assuming the camera knows what the effective focal length is.

Incidentally, BIF is about the only situation in which I use AF-C (continuous autofocus) or let the camera choose the focus point (AF expanded area Large). For everything else I use AF-S and use a single focus point. I used to use centre point, focus and recompose, but since I am often photographing wildlife I now prefer to use select AF point - the eye of the subject will usually be framed above the centre point, so I start with the selected point around there and move it as required. With a little practice, I find this better than focus and recompose, but as you see we all have different preferences about this.

I do not yet own a tripod, but you all have convinced me that it is a worthy next purchase. I'm realizing I have an affinity for macrophotography and plan to someday add the 100 mm macro lens to the repertoire. I'm holding off on any news lenses, though, until I have the camera figured out.

Very wise all round, if I may say so. The DA 18-135 and DA 55-300 PLM are both very capable lenses. Practise and develop your skills with those - including scrutinising your images to see how they could be improved. In particular, shooting technique and focus accuracy are fundamental to everything. Develop those skills with your zooms before tackling macro photography because there you are usually dealing with wafer thin depth of field.

There are many threads here about tripods. The main advice is don't cheap out (including with heads). That doesn't necessarily mean a big heavy beast - it means get a quality one that is appropriate to your current and future needs.

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Last edited by Des; 10-12-2021 at 02:22 PM.

[martin42mm]

I forgot to welcome you to PF. As you can see, there is a wealth of experience available here which people are happy to share. There are no dumb questions. We have all started out feeling overwhelmed at times.

This is an adaptation of a rule of thumb you might remember from handheld shooting with a 35mm film camera, 1/focal length (e.g. 1/200th for 200mm). The 1.5x adaptation arises because the field of view (FOV) with an APS-C camera like the KP (16mm x 24mm sensor) is narrower - for example a shot with a lens at 200mm will have about the same FOV as a shot with a film SLR using 35mm film (or a full frame digital camera like the K-1ii, which has a 24mm x 36mm sensor) with a lens at 300mm. So on the KP at 200mm, the starting point would be 1/300th (1/320th would be the nearest available approximation), the counterpart of using a 300mm lens on a film SLR (or FF digital camera).

With Shake Reduction (also known as In-body image stabilization, or IBIS), this is a conservative approach, especially at wider focal lengths. With practice, and good technique (that article again!), SR will allow you to get sharp images fairly reliably at much slower shutter speeds than the rule of thumb would suggest. I've been amazed by the 5-axis SR on the KP (one of many advantages it has over the K-70). But take it in little steps, trying slower speeds where necessary as you get more confident.

For wildlife (including insects) the main shutter speed limitation is often the movement of the subject (rather than movement of the camera/lens). With perched birds, there will often be a moment where they are absolutely still and a slow shutter can work, but for birds in flight (BIF - it's a thing!), for example, it is hard to crib - if you want to freeze the motion, even panning the camera to follow the bird, 1/640th sec would be the absolute minimum, and that would be for a large slow-flying bird like a pelican - even then I would go faster if practicable. I have a preset user mode for BIF in my KP, using Tv (shutter priority) at 1/1250th (using a focal length between 300mm and 420mm, the longest I have), and I will bump that up further if the light permits. (@Luftluss was making much the same point about the speed for an insect in flight.)

Your friend's advice that SR can cause blur might be referring to using the camera on a tripod. Then it should be off (the camera does this automatically if you use the timer or lock up the mirror.) For handheld shooting, I would always leave it on. There are some who say that at high shutter speeds (e.g. 1/1250th or faster) it may be counterproductive, but I have never seen any proof of this and my own experience doesn't support it, assuming the camera knows what the effective focal length is.

Incidentally, BIF is about the only situation in which I use AF-C (continuous autofocus) or let the camera choose the focus point (AF expanded area Large). For everything else I use AF-S and use a single focus point. I used to use centre point, focus and recompose, but since I am often photographing wildlife I now prefer to use select AF point - the eye of the subject will usually be framed above the centre point, so I start with the selected point around there and move it as required. With a little practice, I find this better than focus and recompose, but as you see we all have different preferences about this.

Congratulations on the KP purchase. I've just been semi-forced down that route because of a possible issue with my K-S1 and the aperture control. Superb carmera, and infinitely controllable via the various program dials that the camera has. However I am a great believer in keeping everything simple. I find the settings that I like, dial them and-and LEAVE! I use spot-metering, and centre focus point when using AF, plus I lock in a fixed 200 ASA. Aperture and shutter are used to adjust accordingly for lighting under 99.9% of situations, and only rarely do I shift from 200 ASA .I never go beyond f8 unless I really need the depth of field, and I always use anti-shake, but it is better to practice hand-holding different lenses with it off initially .
Be aware that some top-dial positions lock-out certain additional settings which cannot be used-a good read of the manual is essential if you are new to the potential complexities of modern digital cameras. Remember the Custom settings are your friend here-you can tailor settings to exactly what you want, including using lenses with manual aperture rings. Get to know the camera in every detail before using in any circumstance that is important and cannot be repeated. DON'T use it immediately for a wedding if you're the only photographer!

Once you get the hang of the settings, leave well alone and use what you know works. That is why the camera has different command dial positions so you can recall specific settings for certain conditions. Personally I don't use these because I tend to use the same settings for all my photography, but if you think of the camera as being similar to a multi-effects unit for an electric guitar, creating your own presets can be useful for a quick change of circumstances( or song!).
Back in the day when I had friends just starting out with film SLRs, I would always encourage them to do exactly the same as I have suggested above, except the number of variations that could be set was considerably less than what is available with cameras like the KP. But whereas I said do all this before putting a film in the camera, at least you can now see immediately if you are getting the results you want , preferably by reviewing on a monitor rather than just using the rear screen, good as it is.
Modern cameras can be a steep learning curve if you are a newbie, but we've all been there at some time, and perseverance is the key. And just enjoy using the camera-no-one is asking you to pass any exam at the end of it!

[Wheatfield]

Make sure your AF is dialed in accurately.
Make sure that shake reduction is engaged before taking the picture. I'm not sure about the Kp, but some of the Pentax cameras need a wind up time to get the shake reduction functioning. If you take a "sleeping" camera and stab the shutter button, it might take the picture while shake reduction is spooling up. That will give motion blur.

Now the samples you have shown don't look like blur, they just look soft. As others have mentioned, choose less extreme aperture and lower ISO. Both should help give a sharper image.
And, do make sure your AF offset is dialed in, otherwise the camera may focus slightly ahead of or behind the subject. The picture of the bee looks like it might be slightly back focused, indicating the AF does need to be adjusted.

[martin42mm]

Make sure your AF is dialed in accurately.
Make sure that shake reduction is engaged before taking the picture. I'm not sure about the Kp, but some of the Pentax cameras need a wind up time to get the shake reduction functioning. If you take a "sleeping" camera and stab the shutter button, it might take the picture while shake reduction is spooling up. That will give motion blur.

Now the samples you have shown don't look like blur, they just look soft. As others have mentioned, choose less extreme aperture and lower ISO. Both should help give a sharper image.
And, do make sure your AF offset is dialed in, otherwise the camera may focus slightly ahead of or behind the subject. The picture of the bee looks like it might be slightly back focused, indicating the AF does need to be adjusted.

Or try manual focus before dialing in anything.
You cannot beat what film-users used to call 'rack focusing'. You get your image as you want it, move your lens manually until it is roughly in-focus, and then move the focus ring back and forth until you settle on the sharpest point. AF has its uses, but I reckon it is always best to start with manual focus, and see how you get on. Granted modern DSLR screens are not designed to prioritise manual focus, although I do find the KPs screen very accurate and easy to use in this mode. My previous camera, the K-S1, I changed the screen to one that was more manual-focus friendly ( a Canon one!), but I have not found that necessary with the KP. AF has improved greatly since it was first introduced back in the late 70's, but it is not infallible.

[Wheatfield]

Or try manual focus before dialing in anything.
You cannot beat what film-users used to call 'rack focusing'. You get your image as you want it, move your lens manually until it is roughly in-focus, and then move the focus ring back and forth until you settle on the sharpest point. AF has its uses, but I reckon it is always best to start with manual focus, and see how you get on. Granted modern DSLR screens are not designed to prioritise manual focus, although I do find the KPs screen very accurate and easy to use in this mode. My previous camera, the K-S1, I changed the screen to one that was more manual-focus friendly ( a Canon one!), but I have not found that necessary with the KP. AF has improved greatly since it was first introduced back in the late 70's, but it is not infallible.

Actually, there is a lot to be said for this. Try manual focus in live view with focus peaking turned on (if available) and see how sharp things are. Live view is focusing on the sensor, so what you see is exactly what you should get, and focus peaking ensures that the focus is exact.

If things are soft doing that, then there is a lens problem.

Then, manual focus using the viewfinder using the tactic that Martin describes. If that results in soft photos then the focusing screen is misaligned.

If that results in sharp images, and it should, then move to dialing in the AF.

[ehrwien]

The shake reduction could only cause blur if using it on a tripod

I think it might also happen while panning the camera?

[PKSiss]

Very wise all round, if I may say so. The DA 18-135 and DA 55-300 PLM are both very capable lenses. Practise and develop your skills with those - including scrutinising your images to see how they could be improved. In particular, shooting technique and focus accuracy are fundamental to everything. Develop those skills with your zooms before tackling macro photography because there you are usually dealing with wafer thin depth of field.

Thank you for all of this great advice! Don't you find that selecting the single point using the four-way control takes so much time that you miss the shot? I've been using center point, recompose, but that's simply because it's what I've started out doing. The plethora of autofocus options is yet another hill to climb! So I'm thankful for your input. I will definitely be stepping out of my center point comfort zone in response!

---------- Post added 10-16-21 at 02:23 PM ----------

AF offset

Autofocus offset??? Oh dear, I fear I'm completely ignorant of this.

---------- Post added 10-16-21 at 02:26 PM ----------

AF has its uses, but I reckon it is always best to start with manual focus, and see how you get on.

I like this idea. I used to shoot with a K1000 and always manually focussed. Of course I had better eyesight back then : ) but I have adjusted the diopter.

[martin42mm]

I use a single-point AF point set as standard, so there is no need to use the 4-way dial at all. If your subject is off-centre, centre the focus-point on the subject, half-press the shutter-release, which wil lock the AF focus, recompose as you want, and take the shot. Just try practicing with the technique-or learn how to use manual-focus. Personally I prefer manual-focus in 99.99% of all situations, but that is just me. I was weaned on manual focus cameras and lenses ( AF didn't exist when I got my first SLR in the mid 1960s!), and so I have stuck with the manual method. I find AF, no matter how many focus points are set, rarely produces the results I want. Probably lack of practice! But if you think about it, there is usually only one critical subject that you want in sharpest focus, and depth-of field will handle the rest of the photo, depending on what result you want. Remember that DOF preview is your friend here, and all Pentax DSLRs have it built-in, either on a dedicated button or as a second position around the shutter-release.

[Des]

I think it might also happen while panning the camera?

This PF video from 2013 suggests turning SR off when panning.

You Tube

You Tube

But Ricoh says that the 5-axis system in the KP works effectively during panning: Features3 | PENTAX KP | RICOH IMAGING (They publish similar information about the K-1ii and K-3iii.)

Don't you find that selecting the single point using the four-way control takes so much time that you miss the shot? I've been using center point, recompose, but that's simply because it's what I've started out doing.

Good question. If I were changing the focus point for every shot, maybe yes. But with birds or other wildlife I usually move the point when I see the subject, once I've decided whether it will be vertical or horizontal orientation. The starting point will usually be one or two points above the centre (this is where I will typically position the eye in the frame). If there is time for more careful composition (e.g. the bird is preening) I will frame more carefully and position the point accordingly. Much of the time I will need to crop the shot anyway so the framing doesn't need to be too precise, but there is an advantage in starting with the focus point close to the ideal position. Once the point is in position it saves that critical microsecond over focus-and-recompose and it is generally more accurate. The greater accuracy becomes more significant with shorter DOF (e.g. with a wider aperture or very close subject) or with a lens with field curvature (like the DA 20-40 Limited), but even with a typical bird shot with the 55-300 PLM at 300mm f6.3 it does pay dividends.

When shooting a static subject and a precise focus point is important (e.g. aiming for the stamen of a flower), using LiveView I will generally use MF with the aid of focus peaking (at least to fine-tune the focus). But if using the viewfinder and AF, any time-saving advantage of focus-and-recompose doesn't matter. Better to reposition the focus point.

Like you, I learned focus-and-recompose for off-centre subjects with my first SLR (which had a split focus screen). It was natural to carry it over to my first DSLR and first AF lens in 2007. It was always a good approximation. But the march of technology has created higher expectations of focus accuracy and sharpness. In the last few years I have been trying to nail focus with greater precision and I am finding that moving the focus point around has made a difference to me. Of course YMMV.

I am coming to think that the joystick on the K3iii would be a very desirable feature. If only the price would drop a bit ...

[PKSiss]

In the last few years I have been trying to nail focus with greater precision and I am finding that moving the focus point around has made a difference to me.

This is very good to know. Thank you for taking the time to help me! Which goes for everyone who weighed in here, also. I'm already taking sharper photos, and feel buoyed by all the wisdom shared here.