[distorted_vision]

Hey guys and girls. I have recently purchased a beautiful vintage k mount Panagor F/2,5 28mm WIDE Manual Lens. I have tryed it on all of my Pentax dslr body's but to no avail. It was orginaly from a KX body. I was wondering if anyone knew if there's a way I can mount this using an adapter or am I doing something very wrong with trying to mount it? 🤔🤣 I have included a picture of the lense in question. Thank you in advance .

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[distorted_vision]

Here's a pic with the mount removed. The one on the left is a traditional K mount that I'm familiar with.
On the right, is the mount from this panagor.

[sergysergy]

the long black flange is preventing it from mounting. Some people here in the forums have cut them

[distorted_vision]

the long black flange is preventing it from mounting. Some people here in the forums have cut them

Really? That's interesting. I have a Dremel that could easily do that. I assumed it has something to do with that given the extra material compared to the K mount I am familiar with. So is this not a K mount lense? I'm a bit confused

[Fogel70]

Really? That's interesting. I have a Dremel that could easily do that. I assumed it has something to do with that given the extra material compared to the K mount I am familiar with. So is this not a K mount lense? I'm a bit confused

It is K-mount, but 3rd party lens manufacturer may not 100% follow Pentax K-mount specification.
It worked fine on all K-mount cameras available when this lens was released, but on later revisions on K-mount it is no longer fully compatible without modification.

[distorted_vision]

It is K-mount, but 3rd party lens manufacturer may not 100% follow Pentax K-mount specification.
It worked fine on all K-mount cameras available when this lens was released, but on later revisions on K-mount is is no longer fully compatible without modification.

Thanks mate. Makes sense.

[microlight]

The long black flange fouls the power contacts in the mount area that are used to power in-lens motors of Pentax DSLRs from the K10D of 2006 onward.

[distorted_vision]

The long black flange fouls the power contacts in the mount area that are used to power in-lens motors of Pentax DSLRs from the K10D of 2006 onward.

Thanks for the info mate. I can't even mount it to the body, let alone engaging power etc. Do you know of a thread that outlines how to carry out the mod? I don't necessarily want to just do it without some guidance if possible.

[Oldbayrunner]

I've cut a few it is a simple task and easy to do.

[Lowell Goudge]

The long flange fowls any body with a KAF2 or later mount with the power contacts, including film Valera’s such as the PZ series bodies.

You can dismount the part with the flange and cut it off.

Note this is not strictly a non compliance issue, the KAF2 mount is a 1990’s mount and lenses produced with this flang came out in the 1970’s and 80’s

[distorted_vision]

The long flange fowls any body with a KAF2 or later mount with the power contacts, including film Valera’s such as the PZ series bodies.

You can dismount the part with the flange and cut it off.

Note this is not strictly a non compliance issue, the KAF2 mount is a 1990’s mount and lenses produced with this flang came out in the 1970’s and 80’s

Ok so in relation to where the positional red marker is , do I just cut it to closely resemble the more modern K mount like in my picture above? Or do I remove all of the flange completely seeing as tho it is a manual lense?

[aslyfox]

The long flange fowls any body with a KAF2 or later mount with the power contacts, including film Valera’s such as the PZ series bodies.

You can dismount the part with the flange and cut it off.

Note this is not strictly a non compliance issue, the KAF2 mount is a 1990’s mount and lenses produced with this flang came out in the 1970’s and 80’s

reviewing this article might be helpful:

The Evolution of the Pentax K-mount
Technical Information and a Little Bit of History
By PF Staff in Articles and Tips on Dec 29, 2014

. . . . Third Party Variants of the K-mount
Pentax made the original "K" mount available for other camera manufacturers to adopt. The goal was to create a universal standard bayonet mount much like the M42 screw mount had been. Ricoh, Chinon, and others produced cameras and lenses with the "K" mount. Unfortunately, with the introduction of the "KA" mount, Pentax reversed the decision with the result that the other manufacturers either abandoned the "K" mount or developed their own, somewhat incompatible, enhancements. Several third party lens manufacturers produce or has produced lenses with a K-mount. There are no issues with current third party lenses in K-mount, but for older lenses there are two traps to watch out for:

The other trap is the shield that protects the aperture stop down lever. The image to the left shows what the shield should look like and does look like on a genuine Pentax lens. Some older third party lenses have a much larger shield which prevents mounting the lens on a Pentax DSLR. . . . .

The Evolution of the Pentax K-mount - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com

[boriscleto]

Ok so in relation to where the positional red marker is , do I just cut it to closely resemble the more modern K mount like in my picture above? Or do I remove all of the flange completely seeing as tho it is a manual lense?

Either way is fine. If you remove it completely just be careful not to bend the aperture lever.

[Viking42]

Ok so in relation to where the positional red marker is , do I just cut it to closely resemble the more modern K mount like in my picture above? Or do I remove all of the flange completely seeing as tho it is a manual lense?

I have had three old Vivitar lenses which such a flange. For one I simply removed it as the parts below the flange left the innards relatively well enclosed and protected from dust. For the other two I decided to trim the flange and leave it on, as removing it would have exposed the guts of the lens to dust entering some pretty big gaps. My advice is to take the flange off and decide from there depending on what you see. In any case, you have to remove the flange anyway because you can’t cut it while it’s on the lens.

Good luck with the job.

[marcusBMG]

Mine is the same. I have just updated the description in the reviews (listed with the vivitar).
I used a dremel with a diamond cutting disk. If you don't take the aperture guard piece off just protect the glass of the rear group with eg some cling film.
A good 28 imo, with a classy metal 'n glass construction. Similar ballpark to tokina rmc 28mm/ sigma miniwide II.