[67comet]

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Hello all,

I've been beating my head against the proverbial tree trying to figure out a couple things.

1. Why are "new" flashes so friggin' expensive?
2. What do I need to do in order to get an old "affordable" flash to work on my DSLR (K100D Super, K10D, or my K-3 ii).

I was talking to my dad (He's an old photography hobbyist .. circa Petri camera days). I told him new flashes (on camera/hotshoe flash) were in the $200 and up price range. You'd think I stuck a 9V battery on his tongue.

I've seen the term "Adapter" here and there, but can't find what it is, where to start looking for it, and what to look for. I've also wondered how a flash can hurt my new'er camera's private bits when a flash is normally triggered, not the other way around (The camera triggers the flash, the flash doesn't blast its 400 volts back at the camera, or does it?).

Any help is appreciated, I'm shopping for a relatively simple flash setup (I've always hated flash photography because .. I suck at it, always have). I would like to start playing around with a hot-shoe flash, then move to maybe a simple slave flash setup to play with portraits and the like for my family and friends (not a business venture in any way shape or form, I've ruined many hobbies by turning them into money).

[bschriver11]

Look on B&H or Adorama for a used flash. You can get a good flash that will fill your needs without spending hundreds of dollars. Also look at KEH and Used Photo pro, all offer a 6 month warranty unless stated otherwise and accurately state the condition so you know what you are getting. I bought a Shanny flash like new from Adorama for $35 and it does everything the expensive flash units do.

[Unregistered User 8]

Before buying anything, I think you need to have a clear idea of how you want to use it, as in, what lighting problem are you trying to solve.
Do you just need a small basic unit for day time fill-flash shots, or do you need a more powerful flash with tilt/swivel head capabilities for portraits?
Until you work out how you want to use the flash, it is difficult to recommend anything to you.

[From1980]

Be aware that older flash units often have a relatively high trigger voltage that has been said to ruin modern DSLRs. If you look up discussions about the issue here on the PF and consult information after a google search you will learn some relevant facts. The safe voltage for individual modern cameras is circulating and I have seen charts and info about it. As long as your camera and any older flash have compatible safe voltage you can probably use them together if they can be connected. Fully manual flash is really not that complicated if you are using a fairly simple setup as you indicated. Manual camera settings are set according to flash power, flash to subject distance, aperture, and little arithmetic based on the inverse square law of light intensity. Have fun.

[wadge22]

There are a few fairly modern options in the marketplace right now for $100 or under. Theres a metz unit, which is a discontinued brand but should work fine, or there's a genuine pentax one (two actually) for a little more way down towards the end of the listings. I don't know anything about the sellers or the specific items.

You could also look at keh, upp, bh, adorama, on ebay (etc) for a used one, as has been mentioned already. I would go the used but compatible route rather than trying to get something to work with adapters, so that you can really learn how the various functions work rather than learning workarounds.

I would recommend making sure you're getting something with hss, pttl, and tilt (plus swivel if possible), at the minimum. At least those are the features I've found myself using most often. I will definitely admit that I am still in the early phases of learning about flash, though.

[UncleVanya]

How do you plan to use the flash?

[stevebrot]

How do you plan to use the flash?

At a sub-$200 price, the above is a huge question.


Steve

[photogem]

There is one flash which works very well with all pre K20D/K30 Pentax DSLR but not on any starting with the K30 or K-r:
Digital Power Zoom Flashgun for Pentax Model 952/AF w/case & instructions | eBay
This seller doesn't know it was made by "Sakar Digital Concepts".
The door is a bit flimsy but 1000x superior to the door of the Pentax 360FGZ-MK1 or 540FGZ-MK1 whose doors are a disaster and demand DIY solutions because the plastic is of terrible quality as it ages and brakes.

Metz 50AF1 or 52AF2 are good flashes, can be found used for sensible money.
But I would make sure I can send the back.
Some Metz flashes need firmware update though.

There are other Sakar Digital Concepts but as far as I know the won't work with any Pentax later then K20D or K200D.


Prices: Accept or don't accept.

[kypfer]

I picked up a s/h Sigma EF-500 DG ST PA-PTTL flash on eBay relatively recently for very little money (£5 GBP) and it works perfectly on all my Pentax DSLRs.
Do note the model number!
The EF-500 was available in many variations … I have another that is also "Pentax-compatible" but only TTL, so only fully useable on my early *istD cameras.
Do remember, flash was available long before PTTL etc. came along.
If you're prepared to do a little mental arithmetic and and/or work with Guide Numbers, (ISO, aperture and distance) you can use very many old flash-guns with no problem.
I've used an ancient Pentax AF160Sa on a 3rd-party hot-shoe extension lead in the past for a bit of off-camera fill very successfully.
It's only got three contacts on the foot, so just causes the indicator in the viewfinder to light when it's ready, but set the camera as indicated on the chart on the flashgun and it works … simples
"You pays your money and you takes your choice"

[35mmfilmfan]

I have a flash setup often used for pet portraits in the owners' homes - 2 second-hand umbrellas on stands, 4 manual Yongnuo 560 flash units (two on the stands, two for either background lighting or rim lighting), inexpensive remote flash trigger fired from hot shoe, with receiver for each flash gun, with re-chargeable batteries and spares. Exposure determined by second hand Vivitar flash meter. All fits into a 'sports bag' - total cost (over a period of time) - probably under £150.

[photogem]

I have an NOS (New Old Stock) Sigma EF-500DG Super PA PTTL.
It was the follow up of the EF-500 DG ST PA-PTTL


Right after its first use one wing of the mountingfoot broke off, similar to:
Sigma EF-500 DG Super DIY repair???? - PentaxForums.com
Same for the EF-530 DG
Our forum is full of such cases, there was a time when the mountingshoe could be ordered (between $ 11 and much more)
but the part is no longer available.

Most of those early Sigma flashes have those cheap plastic mounting-foots, later Sigma got it and changed to metal.

[LaHo]

Hello all,

I've been beating my head against the proverbial tree trying to figure out a couple things.

1. Why are "new" flashes so friggin' expensive?
2. What do I need to do in order to get an old "affordable" flash to work on my DSLR (K100D Super, K10D, or my K-3 ii).

1. They should not be so expensive, but all proprietary systems are rather expensive. P-TTL is a complex solution that in my opinion works well when only one flash is involved - ideally connected to the camera via an P-TTL compatible cable. When more than one flash is involved, P-TTL gets 1) expensive and 2) complex with much walking back and forth between camera and flashes.
2. Don't bother with old flashes. Use a more generic flash system not dependent on P-TTL.

I therefore second the solution suggested by "35mmfilmfan" - a number of Yongnuo 560 (generation III or newer) family of flashes controlled remotely via a Yongnuo trigger on the camera. This solution is inexpensive and very practical to use with everything controlled from the camera. There is no limit on the number of flashes, and they can be controlled in up to six different groups. The control is all manual - that is you decide the output of the individual flashes. No TTL involved. The back LCD of your camera functions as an exposure guide and light meter. One downside is that you cannot use "high-speed sync", but otherwise you will get just as good (or better) results as with TTL flash control at a much lower cost.

Another option would be a small set of proper studio flashes. These can be found used at reasonable prices. A set with just two flashes and some light modifiers can still go a long way.

[bdery]

1. Why are "new" flashes so friggin' expensive?

That depends. Looking at inflation, some options are moderately cheap these days. You just have to look at third-party options.

2. What do I need to do in order to get an old "affordable" flash to work on my DSLR (K100D Super, K10D, or my K-3 ii).

It depends on the model. If it's an Auto-thyristor flash, you need to make sure the trigger voltage is below 8V, otherwise you can fry your camera. But you'll be severely limited.

I was talking to my dad (He's an old photography hobbyist .. circa Petri camera days). I told him new flashes (on camera/hotshoe flash) were in the $200 and up price range. You'd think I stuck a 9V battery on his tongue.

Again, 200 bucks today is equivalent to about 58$ in 1980!

If you want to build a decent flash system, honestly I would not recommend trying to adapt or patch older flashes. Too risky, too limited. I'd have a look at the Godox system, in addition to being moderately inexpensive, it's capable, with TTL, optical slave, full radio controls, inter-brand compatibility, etc.

Look at these articles, and throw in the very inexpensive TT350 in the lot.

https://www.lightandmatter.org/2021/equipment-reviews/godox-ad100pro/

https://www.lightandmatter.org/2021/equipment-reviews/godox-v860-iii/

https://www.lightandmatter.org/2022/equipment-reviews/godox-v1-versatile-and-dependable/

[reh321]

Hello all,

I've been beating my head against the proverbial tree trying to figure out a couple things.

1. Why are "new" flashes so friggin' expensive?
2. What do I need to do in order to get an old "affordable" flash to work on my DSLR (K100D Super, K10D, or my K-3 ii).

I was talking to my dad (He's an old photography hobbyist .. circa Petri camera days). I told him new flashes (on camera/hotshoe flash) were in the $200 and up price range. You'd think I stuck a 9V battery on his tongue.

I've seen the term "Adapter" here and there, but can't find what it is, where to start looking for it, and what to look for. I've also wondered how a flash can hurt my new'er camera's private bits when a flash is normally triggered, not the other way around (The camera triggers the flash, the flash doesn't blast its 400 volts back at the camera, or does it?).

Any help is appreciated, I'm shopping for a relatively simple flash setup (I've always hated flash photography because .. I suck at it, always have). I would like to start playing around with a hot-shoe flash, then move to maybe a simple slave flash setup to play with portraits and the like for my family and friends (not a business venture in any way shape or form, I've ruined many hobbies by turning them into money).

The first thing you need to know is that the camera triggers the flash by being a switch - a voltage from the flash goes through the camera. In many cases that means that over 100 volts goes through the camera, something modern cameras are not intended for. That kind of voltage can ruin a modern camera. The second thing is that modern cameras/flashes use a method called ‘PTTL’ {“Through The Lens”} to control the amount of light; they actually measure the amount of light they receive and tell the flash to quit when they have received enough. I still have a the flash that I used to photograph my daughters as youngsters {the younger one was in town yesterday to get her dog from us - she is thirty now}. It - like flashes of its time - was an “automatic” flash …. it measures light reflected back and quits when it has received enough ….. so it is a completely different type of beast. They are sophisticated machines in any case, and you pay for it. Since I got my KP camera, I’ve been mostly taking natural light photographs, and I have little use for a flash. If you are asking the type of questions you are, you probably need to purchase {I.e. spend money on} a good book and learn more about the subject before you spend any more money.

[kypfer]

I have an NOS (New Old Stock) Sigma EF-500DG Super PA PTTL.
It was the follow up of the EF-500 DG ST PA-PTTL
Right after its first use one wing of the mountingfoot broke off.

Thanks for the heads-up!
Neither my EF-500 DG ST PA-PTTL nor my EF-500 ST PA (NOS three years ago) have been a problem (yet) … I'll be careful