Autofocus in 2022 is a complex automated process in photo cameras. Since there also are vastly different use cases out there the makers reacted by offering tons of settings the photographer can adjust to make the camera work exactly as the user wants it.
First learning point:
One static set of setting in your camera will definitely not cover all different shooting scenarios. It is bound to be great in scenario A, so-so in scenario B and poor in scenario C.
If you want the best results you *have to* adjust things per scenario. This is true for all cameras on the market.
Then there is the thing about words/language used when explaining things.
First keep in mind "
autofocus" just means that the camera somehow measures the distance to your subject and uses a motor (in the camera or lens) to adjust the lens so that the actual plane of focus (the distance where the image will be the sharpest) to exactly your subject.
So in its basic feature autofocus just moves the focus plane
along the z-axis (from near you to far away).
In"
AF-C" this distance measurement is taking place
multiple times a second (the newer the camera, the more powerful its processors are the higher the frequency of measurements). So if a dog comes running towards you, the camera measures continuously and will get different distances each time.
In an extremely oversimplified example the distance in meters could be measured as over a time period of 1-2 seconds:
10 10 9 9 88 8 7 7 6 6 5 4 3 3 2
The AF distance measuring takes place in the viewfinder frame at a location we call"AF point". DSLRs have lots of them to choose from. many people select just the one in the middle, but you can use any one.
Please note that until now there has been no mentioning of the term "
tracking".Tracking does not in any way describe the core autofocus process directly, but it does describe a separate user supporting automatism. Tracking is all about
automated choosing of the optimal AF point somewhere in the frame and to be more exact: automated choosing of the active AF point if the photographer is unable or unwilling to keep the main subject under the previously chosen AF point.
Tracking(automation) effectively means that the camera tries to guess what part of the currently framed image is your intended main subject so the camera then can automatically choose and activate AF points over this subject in case the subject moves around in the frame.
So for example if you would shoot a train coming absolutely straight at you (you standing on the rails; do not do this!
) and you pointed the central AF on the front of the train then you do need zero tracking as the subject will stay in the middle of the frame. You just need AF-C to make the lens adjust the focus plane as the train approaches.
On the other side you might want to shoot a football player and since he is moving around fast you might have some stress keeping him framed exactly how you want it. maybe he first is in the middle but then quickly runs to the right frame edge and you are a little too slow swinging the camera and for half a second he is on the right hand side of the frame. In this case your previously selected center AF point stares at the distant grass now. Without any tracking the camera will now want to focus on the distant grass. With tracking automatism the camera might understand that the intended subject has moved to the right side of the frame and activate an AF point there instead of the center one.
Please note that tracking is a "smarter" software algorithm than just pure"automated AF point selection" which has been around a long time (for example in "green mode"). The latter did also work in a limited way,but had a primitive logic: It simply assumed that the one item on the frame(and covered by available AF points) that is closest to the camera must be the desired subject and so it did activate the AF point on it. This can be correct, but in many scenarios it is not. Tracking still is just automated point selection but with a more intelligent subject identification.
Most modern cameras such as the K3-III actually use some image pattern recognition techniques to guess what part of the image is the desired key subject and where it moves in the frame - to always activate the AF points over the assumed key subject.
A specialized form of tracking is the "Eye AF " that especially searches for things which look like eyes.
Now back to core autofocus and where AF-hold plays a role.
Scenarios:
Let me first describe a few scenarios of the camera measuring the distance of the focus plane (super simplified):
- A) dog running slowly towards you
9 9 9 8 7 65 4 3 2 1 - B) dog running from left to right but you are not able to keep the chosen AF point onit during two measurements (the center points at the far grass)
5 4 4 4 4 44 9 9 4 3 - C) dog very fast running towards you and back again
9 6 3 1 1 36 9 12 15
What does"AF hold" do? It sets the"distance-stickyness" of the AF system to a certain distance.
It sets how long it intentionally ignores unpredicted and bigger (!) jumps in distance measurements.
Nothing else.
It is good for ignoring brief interruptions/outliers.
Now lets us look at two variants of each of the three scenarios above.
Variant 1:AF-hold = off
Variant 2:AF-hold = long
Scenario A)9 9 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Since the measurements are very continuous without sudden jumps and the changes are notall extremely big there is
zero difference effect between the settings variants. The reason is that AF hold on "long" will not really interfere with nicely predictable changes of AF distance as it happens here. It does not "hold back AF" operations overall.
Scenario B)5 4 4 4 4 4 4 9 9 4 3
Here it starts to get interesting.
Variant 1:AF-hold = off à Focuswill jump to the far away background under the chosen center AF-point immediatelyand loose focus on the dog (at the “9” in the numbers). It should also comeback relatively quickly to the “4” later on, but we know that in reality itdoes take time due to the major racking of the lens in between.
Variant 2:AF-hold = long à whilefocus on the subject may be off somewhat the focus plane will likely be around “4”and stay there briefly with a good chance to pick it up quickly afterwardswithout major racking of the lens. Here this variant is the
betterchoice.
The AF holdignores the big jump from “4” to “9” for a brief period and sticks to thedistance level.
Scenario C)9 6 3 1 1 3 6 9 12 15
Variant 1:AF-hold = off à TheAF will focus correctly on the dog (given the AF motor drive is fast enough andyou are able to keep the AF point perfectly on the subject. This is the
betterchoice here.
Variant 2:AF-hold = long à Itis likely that the stickiness of the AF distance here will initially ignore thenon-predicted and big jump from “3” to “6” and then to “9” but instead waithalf a second at the “3” distance. Maybe it will recover later on but that willtake some time.
Last edited by beholder3; 05-20-2022 at 06:13 AM.