[gatorguy]

Returning to the original point (and ignoring the raw/JPEG discussion):- I don't know the workings of the K-3iii but, if it is similar to a KP, a good starting point for JPEG images might be to set the "Natural" Custom Image, with Saturation, Contrast and Fine Sharpening all changed to +1. To help protect highlights and shadows, I usually use the D-Range settings, with ISO no less than 200. If you haven't yet done so, learn how to use the Histogram, which will help you decide whether any exposure compensation (+ or -) might be needed to improve the image. Hopefully, this post might encourage some K-3iii users to suggest other camera settings for your JPEGs.

Philip

THIS!

Madison Wisconsin Gal isn't currently interested in shooting raw. If anyone has suggestions for JPEG settings please help her out.

[madison_wi_gal]

THIS!

Madison Wisconsin Gal isn't currently interested in shooting raw. If anyone has suggestions for JPEG settings please help her out.

Well, I can do RAW for fun but JPG is preferred.

[TwoUptons]

Returning to the original point (and ignoring the raw/JPEG discussion):- I don't know the workings of the K-3iii but, if it is similar to a KP, a good starting point for JPEG images might be to set the "Natural" Custom Image, with Saturation, Contrast and Fine Sharpening all changed to +1. To help protect highlights and shadows, I usually use the D-Range settings, with ISO no less than 200. If you haven't yet done so, learn how to use the Histogram, which will help you decide whether any exposure compensation (+ or -) might be needed to improve the image. Hopefully, this post might encourage some K-3iii users to suggest other camera settings for your JPEGs.

Philip

This is really close to how I have my KP set up, and it works really well for me.
I'll also note I use exposure compensation a lot...
The KP has a button that lets me save single Raw files if I want to (I'm sure the K3iii has something similar), as long as I press the button before I take the next shot.
I'll use that if I take a shot that I know will benefit from extra fiddling. It saves off that one Raw (and the JPEG), then it's back to JPEG.

-Eric

[Lowell Goudge]

Lowell, I think you are describing the D-Range settings, which I mentioned in my previous post.

Philip

You are correct but I never go to the menu to find them, they are on the main info screen directly

[reh321]

Returning to the original point (and ignoring the raw/JPEG discussion):- I don't know the workings of the K-3iii but, if it is similar to a KP, a good starting point for JPEG images might be to set the "Natural" Custom Image, with Saturation, Contrast and Fine Sharpening all changed to +1. To help protect highlights and shadows, I usually use the D-Range settings, with ISO no less than 200. If you haven't yet done so, learn how to use the Histogram, which will help you decide whether any exposure compensation (+ or -) might be needed to improve the image. Hopefully, this post might encourage some K-3iii users to suggest other camera settings for your JPEGs.

Philip

I suppose I should try setting my KP to contrast +1, since I usually adjust either “WB” or “curves” on JPEGs a tad, and I believe the main thing I’m doing {as I said in the last thread} is adjusting contrast.

[Rondec]

I really would install DCU shot a few RAW images and play with the different presets available there. This will tell you what settings you connect with the most and you can set your camera that way.

[biz-engineer]

RAW isn't necessarily better, it depends how you prioritize vitamins over tasty and easy to digest. Pentax is simple, only one kind of raw, totally uncooked. But some other brands offer blue, rare, medium rare, medium and well done, JPEG corresponding to well done . It's not confusing at all .

[35mmfilmfan]

Don't worry, @madison_wi_gal - every time a topic is raised where people have polarised views, there will be a certain amount of confrontational sabre-rattling, but it all blows over, and can be fun to start one just to see the effects ! One of my favourites is the topic of re-using SD cards versus using new ones each time a card is full - you can almost guarantee at least a week of dramatically-opposing views as to whether this is a good idea or not. As with everything, go with whatever suits you - if you find a camera easier to hold upside-down, for instance, go with it and watch the reactions !

[Lowell Goudge]

Don't worry, @madison_wi_gal - every time a topic is raised where people have polarised views, there will be a certain amount of confrontational sabre-rattling, but it all blows over, and can be fun to start one just to see the effects ! One of my favourites is the topic of re-using SD cards versus using new ones each time a card is full - you can almost guarantee at least a week of dramatically-opposing views as to whether this is a good idea or not. As with everything, go with whatever suits you - if you find a camera easier to hold upside-down, for instance, go with it and watch the reactions !

You forgot the left eye vs right eye dominant debate

[Lord Lucan]

You forgot the left eye vs right eye dominant debate

Pfff - a mere tea party compared with the flippy versus fixed Live View screen debate, still going on now in the K3iii subforum. I ran out of popcorn on that one

[35mmfilmfan]

You forgot the left eye vs right eye dominant debate

I only have the one, in the middle - got it from an encyclopsedia.

[reh321]

In my previous thread, I was trying to get an "Explain Like I'm Five" recipe for what SOOC JPG settings would work for my K-3 III, and in the 5 ( so far) pages of dialogue, I learned a lot, but the best thing I learned (I think) is that a RAW image (at least a fairly decently exposed one) can be manipulated in PDCU and the result is ~ the same as if you processed in the camera.

I think.

Since unlike a lot of the responders, I'm not shooting professionally, so I do have the time to shoot in RAW (or RAW+ JPG) and then PDCU the RAW results, and I plan to do that with both cards in.

I still need to learn the K-3 III controls and the features, since even a flagship can't save me if I don't take a little interest in my surroundings and use appropriate settings, but it is fortunate that I can use 2 cards to shoot RAW & JPG, try out some of the JPG settings examples here and here but have a RAW backup in case, so I am glad I asked the initial question.

This is so cool.

Some of the responses here have nothing to do with JPEG settings - such as those about changing weather conditions {which automated WB and exposure settings take care of}. They must relate to some other argument that the person ‘must get’ yet another argument in. I have used my settings for several years now - in all kinds of conditions - only reviewing them now because of some of the {relevant} comments here.

That is where you are erring. JPEG is the only mode for every circumstance. RAW is maybe the right mode for the few that want to temper with the pictures they have been taken. One of the circumstances that RAW does not take into account is that there are more people taking JPEG's than RAW, just because JPEG is easier to work with, or that they do not know how to work PP-programs.

My sentience exactly. What bothers me about JPEG in-camera settings is that it's too much trouble to try to fiddle with all those settings and to deal with the complexity of their interrelationships in the field. When I'm ready to take a shot, I don't want to have to say, "Wait a second, I've got to fiddle with my camera settings." I turn every thing I can that's designed to enhance JPEG pictures off, except in-camera image stabilization and multi-auto white balance (those do affect what happens to the raw data). I figure the camera's going to be a nanosecond faster without that stuff, and I can fiddle with the parameters at my leisure when I edit the raw data. In the field, I treat the DSLR like a film camera, almost - I only adjust ISO, shutter speed, and aperture, as a rule. I do use the TAv drive mode and use exposure compensation a bit, but those aren't things that ordinarily require adjustment on the fly. When I'm taking a picture, I want to be thinking about my subject and my composition, not trying to remember how I last set "clarity".

I only have the one, in the middle - got it from an encyclopsedia.

In my opinion, that's not as big a yolk as one might think. The "third eye" represents awareness, and I find that's a big part of how I take pictures.

[reh321]

My sentience exactly. What bothers me about JPEG in-camera settings is that it's too much trouble to try to fiddle with all those settings and to deal with the complexity of their interrelationships in the field. When I'm ready to take a shot, I don't want to have to say, "Wait a second, I've got to fiddle with my camera settings." I turn every thing I can that's designed to enhance JPEG pictures off, except in-camera image stabilization and multi-auto white balance (those do affect what happens to the raw data). I figure the camera's going to be a nanosecond faster without that stuff, and I can fiddle with the parameters at my leisure when I edit the raw data. In the field, I treat the DSLR like a film camera, almost - I only adjust ISO, shutter speed, and aperture, as a rule. I do use the TAv drive mode and use exposure compensation a bit, but those aren't things that ordinarily require adjustment on the fly. When I'm taking a picture, I want to be thinking about my subject and my composition, not trying to remember how I last set "clarity".

The point is that JPEG settings do not depend on circumstances.
Last week I used exactly the same JPEG settings everywhere when we went to a ‘birding thing’ at Indiana Dunes NP,
as I took photographs in circumstances ranging from direct sunlight to shaded forest.
Similarly, as a result of comments made here, I have made a few subtle changes,
changes that will apply to direct sunlight on Winter snow, as well as forest shade in summertime.

Added: I photograph deliberately, carefully composing each photograph.
I take much more time between photographs than the camera does in processing the results.
The point is that I set parameters now, then “forget”/use them for years.

The last time I modified parameters is when I purchased the cameras:
Dec 2014 for the Q-7, June 2015 for the K-30, Dec 2018 for the KP.