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05-19-2022, 08:14 PM - 2 Likes   #1
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Oh my goodness I might have started some fisticuffs for no reason

In my previous thread, I was trying to get an "Explain Like I'm Five" recipe for what SOOC JPG settings would work for my K-3 III, and in the 5 ( so far) pages of dialogue, I learned a lot, but the best thing I learned (I think) is that a RAW image (at least a fairly decently exposed one) can be manipulated in PDCU and the result is ~ the same as if you processed in the camera.

I think.

Since unlike a lot of the responders, I'm not shooting professionally, so I do have the time to shoot in RAW (or RAW+ JPG) and then PDCU the RAW results, and I plan to do that with both cards in.

I still need to learn the K-3 III controls and the features, since even a flagship can't save me if I don't take a little interest in my surroundings and use appropriate settings, but it is fortunate that I can use 2 cards to shoot RAW & JPG, try out some of the JPG settings examples here and here but have a RAW backup in case, so I am glad I asked the initial question.

This is so cool.

05-19-2022, 09:03 PM - 6 Likes   #2
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no - you didn't start it; that argument (RAW vs jpg) has been ongoing for years now.....
05-19-2022, 10:20 PM - 2 Likes   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by pepperberry farm Quote
no - you didn't start it; that argument (RAW vs jpg) has been ongoing for years now.....
Heh, you got that right, Pepperberry!
05-19-2022, 11:01 PM - 1 Like   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by madison_wi_gal Quote
In my previous thread, I was trying to get an "Explain Like I'm Five" recipe for what SOOC JPG settings would work for my K-3 III, and in the 5 ( so far) pages of dialogue, I learned a lot, but the best thing I learned (I think) is that a RAW image (at least a fairly decently exposed one) can be manipulated in PDCU and the result is ~ the same as if you processed in the camera.

I think.

Since unlike a lot of the responders, I'm not shooting professionally, so I do have the time to shoot in RAW (or RAW+ JPG) and then PDCU the RAW results, and I plan to do that with both cards in.

I still need to learn the K-3 III controls and the features, since even a flagship can't save me if I don't take a little interest in my surroundings and use appropriate settings, but it is fortunate that I can use 2 cards to shoot RAW & JPG, try out some of the JPG settings examples here and here but have a RAW backup in case, so I am glad I asked the initial question.

This is so cool.
You don't need two cards to shoot raw and jpeg...my KP and GRlll can do the same thing on one card.
When I am out and about I always save the photo in both...I usually have a B/W profile on the jpeg but sometimes I prefer to process the photo how I would like it and that is where having the raw file is a bonus.
When I photograph items for my website I only use raw with my K1 - I have compared the jpegs to the raw and prefer the way I process the photos from them.
But once again this is my choice and however you choose to work is entirely up to you!

05-20-2022, 02:43 AM - 1 Like   #5
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Experimenting with RAW files teaches us a lot about color and exposure settings. There's really no reason to debate, it's just the right mode for every circumstance. I also shoot RAW+jpeg sometimes, but getting the same result as in-camera seems to be a little tricky for now...
05-20-2022, 02:49 AM - 1 Like   #6
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As others have said, it isn't anything new and truthfully, it shouldn't be a big deal as long as you are satisfied with the images you are getting.
05-20-2022, 02:55 AM - 2 Likes   #7
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my suggestion for any one's photography

have fun

the way you like to do

just have fun

[ but what do I know ]

05-20-2022, 03:09 AM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by Michail_P Quote
it's just the right mode for every circumstance
That is where you are erring. JPEG is the only mode for every circumstance. RAW is maybe the right mode for the few that want to temper with the pictures they have been taken. One of the circumstances that RAW does not take into account is that there are more people taking JPEG's than RAW, just because JPEG is easier to work with, or that they do not know how to work PP-programs.
05-20-2022, 04:19 AM - 1 Like   #9
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If we go back to the OP’s initial want. “What jpeg settings would be best for me” what is missing from the manuals, and all the discussions is the following.

A picture with some “standard multi color bright photo subject” shot with standard settings, and then for each setting increment of 1-5 what happens to the image.

Once upon a time I think someone did this with a hot air balloon, but I think the best subject might be a pen holder full of highlight pens

Then show what each slider step in contrast, saturation, etc did, on exactly the same shot.

That’s the trick with jpeg, is that you don’t know what the range of controls is and the manual does not really tell you this.

That’s also why when it comes to camera comparisons, photo magazine tests use the standard JPEG, and score Pentax badly, because most other manufacturers push their normal settings to over saturated, high contrast over sharpened images, they look better in snapshot form at and on social media and let’s face it, that is what a larg portion of the market is a good image
05-20-2022, 06:00 AM - 1 Like   #10
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I have always shot RAW+jpg (whenever possible). Most of the time the jpgs are fine, but RAW images have a clear advantage if more advanced editing is needed.
Also the processing software have evolved a lot over the years. Today I can get more IQ of of my K10D RAW data, than it was possible back when I shot the images.

I have optimized my jpg settings for what I like the majority of my images to be straight out of camera. If that do not work out for certain images, I have the RAW data to work with.
05-20-2022, 07:52 AM - 4 Likes   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by madison_wi_gal Quote
In my previous thread, I was trying to get an "Explain Like I'm Five" recipe for what SOOC JPG settings would work for my K-3 III, and in the 5 ( so far) pages of dialogue, I learned a lot, but the best thing I learned (I think) is that a RAW image (at least a fairly decently exposed one) can be manipulated in PDCU and the result is ~ the same as if you processed in the camera.

I think.

Since unlike a lot of the responders, I'm not shooting professionally, so I do have the time to shoot in RAW (or RAW+ JPG) and then PDCU the RAW results, and I plan to do that with both cards in.

I still need to learn the K-3 III controls and the features, since even a flagship can't save me if I don't take a little interest in my surroundings and use appropriate settings, but it is fortunate that I can use 2 cards to shoot RAW & JPG, try out some of the JPG settings examples here and here but have a RAW backup in case, so I am glad I asked the initial question.

This is so cool.
If you are happy with camera produced jpegs and aren't doing much, if any, post processing (and if you are using the Pentax supplied software, you aren't), then do what works for you.

RAW gives you more headroom for editing, but really, that's it's only advantage since practically all images to be displayed will end up as jpegs anyway.

A number of years ago I did a little test where I opened a RAW file, did some minimal manipulation to it, and saved it as a mid sized JPEG. I then opened that JPEG, did some minor manipulation to it and saved it as a mid sized JPEG. I repeated this half a dozen times and then sent all the files to the printer.
There really wasn't anything to say between the look of the original RAW file and the sixth JPEG file on paper, and I would hope that anyone doing that much opening and saving an image would be saving the file as a TIFF or PSD or some other non lossy format for their future editing.
I do think if one is going to shoot in camera jpegs, they should save as the largest file possible, but if the end use is crackbook being viewed on a phone screen, even that isn't really necessary.

If you are saving images as in camera jpegs, adjust the save settings to as close to what you like as you can and go have fun. This is photography, it's not a religion.

Last edited by Wheatfield; 05-20-2022 at 07:58 AM.
05-20-2022, 09:33 AM - 2 Likes   #12
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Returning to the original point (and ignoring the raw/JPEG discussion):- I don't know the workings of the K-3iii but, if it is similar to a KP, a good starting point for JPEG images might be to set the "Natural" Custom Image, with Saturation, Contrast and Fine Sharpening all changed to +1. To help protect highlights and shadows, I usually use the D-Range settings, with ISO no less than 200. If you haven't yet done so, learn how to use the Histogram, which will help you decide whether any exposure compensation (+ or -) might be needed to improve the image. Hopefully, this post might encourage some K-3iii users to suggest other camera settings for your JPEGs.

Philip
05-20-2022, 10:02 AM - 1 Like   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by MrB1 Quote
Returning to the original point (and ignoring the raw/JPEG discussion):- I don't know the workings of the K-3iii but, if it is similar to a KP, a good starting point for JPEG images might be to set the "Natural" Custom Image, with Saturation, Contrast and Fine Sharpening all changed to +1. To help protect highlights and shadows, I usually use the D-Range settings, with ISO no less than 200. If you haven't yet done so, learn how to use the Histogram, which will help you decide whether any exposure compensation (+ or -) might be needed to improve the image. Hopefully, this post might encourage some K-3iii users to suggest other camera settings for your JPEGs.

Philip
One thing I know and I am not sure the functions of the KP include this, but the flagship models all have since I think the K7, is shadow and highlight detail protection.

The way this works is the camera doubles the minimum ISO, and then uses the whole dynamic range of the image, to expand as needed the dynamic range at the end of the normal JPEG scale, and compress the middle region a little.

I have never figured out a way to test for the exact change in the scaling because unlike verifying normal exposure latitude in the jpeg image which needs a uniform 18% grey card, this would require perhaps a graduated card
05-20-2022, 10:13 AM - 1 Like   #14
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Lowell, I think you are describing the D-Range settings, which I mentioned in my previous post.

Philip
05-20-2022, 11:31 AM - 1 Like   #15
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I just got me another big bucket of popcorn – carry on, y'all!
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