[BelDel]

Energiser Ultimate Lithiums are what I use.
The rechargeables I have are AA 1.5V 1200mAH
If the camera can't handle Lithium A's, then how does it take the E
nergiser Ulitmate Lithiums?

If your K200D ever suffered leaking batteries which attacked the contacts, particular those deep inside the battery compartement
then even if cleaned well it will only work with the extra mA-power Lithium's can deliver.
I had a K200D with such problems.
I could change the contacts on the battery-door (which must be from another K200D, they differ to those of the earlier *ist-D/L/S or K100/110D) but it didn't solve the problem. It was the contact problem of the other contacts which are very difficult and time intensive to change, one has to completly disassemble the whole camera beyond motherboard and sensor and diaphragm-control-unit, some 20 hours and a lot of complex soldering.


If your contacts are o.k., try to bend them slightly towards each other so there is more pressure towards the AA's.
Eneloop AA's are the only ones to use!

Then as it was already recommended change the setting in the menu to the battery type.
Maybe the D-BG3 could help, one can find it quite cheap these days.


Get "Energizer Ultimate Lithiums", they last very long and hold their capacity for at least 10years)


You possibly mean recharcheable Li-Ion AA's which are yet of terrible quality anyway, even if you use those in a K5/3 with battery grip or a K30 with AA-Adapter.
But the internal PS-monitoring in your K200D can't measure Lithium AA's, it wasn't made for that.

---------- Post added 06-15-22 at 06:07 PM ----------

Have you downloaded and installed the latest firmware? I have version 1.01, on my K200D and it works very well on any batteries i throw at it.

No, and I definitely need to try to do this for other reasons too!
I just have to work out how!

---------- Post added 06-15-22 at 06:07 PM ----------

Have you downloaded and installed the latest firmware? I have version 1.01, on my K200D and it works very well on any batteries i throw at it.

No, and I definitely need to try to do this for other reasons too!
I just have to work out how!

[photogem]

Energiser Ultimate Lithiums are what I use.

That is good, Energizer Ultimate Lithiums are the best

The rechargeables I have are AA 1.5V 1200mAH

But they are not Lithiums (which will work) but Li-Ions!
There are no Lithium-rechargeables.
Li-Ion AA rechargeables are nothing special but this is here of no importance.
The K200D does not have the capacity/technology to measure their behaviour, it doesn't know and can't know
that they are Li-Ions.

If the camera can't handle Lithium A's, then how does it take the Energiser Ulitmate Lithiums?!

Just because the name sounds similar they aren't!

[bobore]

Can you remember where you read this and maybe post a link?
That would be very useful!

I would guess he’s recalling discussions that have taken place regarding the time/date battery. I’ve mentioned the technique I use (in a few different threads) to bring this battery back to life - most recently in a thread titled “My new crippled K-200d” from, I believe, 2-19-22. Sorry I don’t know how to provide a link.

Fwiw, I use nothing but Energizer Lithiums, and my two K200s continue to work flawlessly.

[photogem]

I would guess he’s recalling discussions that have taken place regarding the time/date battery.

Could well be!


What you mention is what I call the C-MOS battery which usually is a standard Lithium 3V cell.
I wrote a lot about it in the K30/K50 section:
Tutorial: Change Back-up Battery Pentax K-30, K-50, K-500 - PentaxForums.com
Why you shouldn't store your Pentax without the main battery - PentaxForums.com
Just google "Pentax C-MOS"

I’ve mentioned the technique I use (in a few different threads) to bring this battery back to life - most recently in a thread titled “My new crippled K-200d” from, I believe, 2-19-22. Sorry I don’t know how to provide a link.

Found it right away!

If you want to provide a link, you can just copy the complete adress from your browser which always starts with:
"https://www...... "

Your technique is new to me, I will try it out next time its needed! Thanks!

Fwiw, I use nothing but Energizer Lithiums, and my two K200s continue to work flawlessly.

[Jonathan Mac]

Can you remember where you read this and maybe post a link?
That would be very useful!

It would almost certainly have been here on the forums somewhere but it looks like I didn't save a link anywhere.

[photogem]

If one uses Eneloops, a good charger is most important:
This one is cheap but great:
https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/bc-700/chargers/technoline/

[BelDel]

These do actually work in the K200D, they are just useless at holding their charge!
That's disappointing as I bought them specifically based on they listing saying they were lithium!

With a little recent experimentation it seems that the K200D doesn't like anything other than brand spanking new batteries (or lithium!). I tried some brand new Energizer max in it and they work. I have some brand new rechargeable 1.2V man ones to try.
I just hate having to buy non-rechargeable batteries all the time!

That is good, Energizer Ultimate Lithiums are the best


But they are not Lithiums (which will work) but Li-Ions!
There are no Lithium-rechargeables.
Li-Ion AA rechargeables are nothing special but this is here of no importance.
The K200D does not have the capacity/technology to measure their behaviour, it doesn't know and can't know
that they are Li-Ions.



Just because the name sounds similar they aren't!

---------- Post added 06-16-22 at 08:31 PM ----------

If one uses Eneloops, a good charger is most important:
This one is cheap but great:
https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/bc-700/chargers/technoline/

Thank you!

---------- Post added 06-16-22 at 08:33 PM ----------

I would guess he’s recalling discussions that have taken place regarding the time/date battery. I’ve mentioned the technique I use (in a few different threads) to bring this battery back to life - most recently in a thread titled “My new crippled K-200d” from, I believe, 2-19-22. Sorry I don’t know how to provide a link.

Fwiw, I use nothing but Energizer Lithiums, and my two K200s continue to work flawlessly.

They're [pretty much all I've been using until recently - it's just the constant expense of replacing - not to mention the environmental drain!

[photogem]

These do actually work in the K200D, they are just useless at holding their charge!
That's disappointing as I bought them specifically based on they listing saying they were lithium!

Rechargeable Li-Ion's (a) and non-rechargeable Lithium (b) are not the same, quite different.

With b) there is long long experience, that is why Energizer Ultimates are that great.
I get more than 1000 photos out of my K200D (w.out flash) so I find the price not that tricky.
With a) there is not much experience for AA's or AAA's and what was thrown onto the market is not recommendable!


Eneloops: I would only use the Pro's with 2550mA (Life expectancy is still fantastic: 500x to be recharged)
and the mentioned charger, because correct single cell charging and measuring is important.

The Opus BT C3100 V2.2 charger is one of the best and still not too expensive: That is for Eneloops, not
for Li-Ions because it charges Li-Ions with Pulse-width modulation (PWM), not the best for Li-Ions!

[Jonathan Mac]

If one uses Eneloops, a good charger is most important:
This one is cheap but great:
https://www.tme.com/us/en-us/details/bc-700/chargers/technoline/

That's the one I have.

[photogem]

Update to what could be the problem:

I have found that more and more Pentax DSLR's and particular the K200D suffer because what I call the C-MOS battery is drained!

J. Mac wrote earlier in this thread that he heard "a condensor" is the problem:

It isn't really a condensor (I wish it would be) but this 3V Lithium battery.


When it is drained it won't recover anymore and sucks every main battery empty because even when switched of it try's to charge.


There are only 2 options: Replace it or at least remove it (which means mainboard out because it is on the backside)

[Billy Bokeh]

Thanks for the update and insight!

I have five Pentax K200Ds (and five K5iis)- all the K200Ds turn their nose up at using an by batteries that are your regular Duracell or Energizer type, but work stellar with the Energizer Lithium batteries- the lithium batteries show a nice full charge and are long lasting and allow normal operation, flash and burst without issue, where your standard battery will show the batteries read low, even if brand new. Do you think that the need for the lithium batteries is because the 3v battery is aging? On a positive note, none of my K200Ds deplete the lithium batteries at this time- they have a healthy lifestyle.

I’m thinking at some point the 200Ds (and even the K5Iis) may need that 3v battery replaced though- it would have been nice to have had them accessible by a bay door and with contacts. I have some 4, 10 and 12mp point and shoot cameras I upkeep and some of those have the smaller battery accessible and user replaceable by access via a small battery door.

Although those with the ability to solder, the hardwired 3v shouldn’t be much of a challenge- just inconvenient and time consuming and requiring some skills.

Do the

Update to what could be the problem:

I have found that more and more Pentax DSLR's and particular the K200D suffer because what I call the C-MOS battery is drained!

J. Mac wrote earlier in this thread that he heard "a condensor" is the problem:

It isn't really a condensor (I wish it would be) but this 3V Lithium battery.


When it is drained it won't recover anymore and sucks every main battery empty because even when switched of it try's to charge.


There are only 2 options: Replace it or at least remove it (which means mainboard out because it is on the backside)

---------- Post added 02-01-23 at 07:07 AM ----------

Slightly off topic, here’s a very rushed photo (it was cold and I had only minutes to get the shot) from one of my K200Ds, using a DA 55-300mm f/4-5.8 ED. Photo is cropped.

This particular K200D used has over 217,000 shutter counts now. I’m overall pretty impressed with the reliability of my K200Ds and K5IIs. I’ll give credit to Pentax for making a rugged camera.

[photogem]

Do you think that the need for the lithium batteries is because the 3v battery is aging?

Yes. I have a K200D which I got about a year ago, it had a super low shuttercount. But the 3V C-MOS was bad.
I didn't want to take the motherboard out, imo more risk than positive sides.
But I lifted the motherboard and clipped the 3V Lithium off.

Since then no problem.

If one leaves the K200D without batteries for a night and it then askes for date/time, then you know the C-MOS is over and done with.
And it will drain, just that Lithiums live much longer.

I am not sure if this is the only culprit because my K200D wouldn't accept new Eneloops at all!

Only the best lithiums.

Maybe there is another culprit not yet detected.

Allthough those with the ability to solder, the hardwired 3v shouldn’t be much of a challenge- just inconvenient and time consuming and requiring some skills.

It isn't that easy. Best to clip it off and leave some of the feet on the board and solder the new 3V Lithium to those feet.
Soldering directly on the motherboard means you need quite some heat which very quickly damages the strip-conductor on the board.
Happened to me once with a K30

This particular K200D used has over 217,000 shutter counts now. I’m overall pretty impressed with the reliability of my K200Ds and K5IIs. I’ll give credit to Pentax for making a rugged camera.

Indeed, I will quote this in another thread!


My first K5 has now over 100.000 and works fine (with Katzeye)

[Billy Bokeh]

It isn't that easy. Best to clip it off and leave some of the feet on the board and solder the new 3V Lithium to those feet.
Soldering directly on the motherboard means you need quite some heat which very quickly damages the strip-conductor on the board.

Good point and advice on leaving wire leads. Thanks for your contributions!

[Jonathan Mac]

Update to what could be the problem:

I have found that more and more Pentax DSLR's and particular the K200D suffer because what I call the C-MOS battery is drained!

J. Mac wrote earlier in this thread that he heard "a condensor" is the problem:

It isn't really a condensor (I wish it would be) but this 3V Lithium battery.

When it is drained it won't recover anymore and sucks every main battery empty because even when switched of it try's to charge.

There are only 2 options: Replace it or at least remove it (which means mainboard out because it is on the backside)

Do you have any images that show the 3V battery and are there any instructions on opening up the camera? If I remove it will the camera forget all the settings (not just date and time) every time it's switched off?

I haven't bothered trying to revive my K200D lately as I have others I can use for a play. I haven't sold it purely because it has a Katzeye screen installed and shimmed to perfection.

I recently bought a used K-x with 17K shots on it, which also uses AA batteries. So far it works well with normal alkaline AAs though I don't know for how long and it works on 1800mAh rechargeables but almost always indicates that they're virtually empty. When I first turn it on during a day it shows red (empty), I take a few shots and switch it off. A short time later I turn it on again and it shows half full - again I take a few shots and turn it off. Later it may still show half full or may go up to full, depending. Either way, it works a lot better than my old K200D.

[photogem]

Just follow the instructions of the tutorial for the K30/K50 and solenoid repair.
The K200D is similar, just that there are no hidden screws. It is long time now, it could be that when you take the front off as it is with the K100D that two cables are still connected.

Partly you see it here:
Disassembling Pentax K200D Front Cover - iFixit Reparaturanleitung
but then 4 more screws, 2 on each side possibly for the Back with the LCD.
It is all logical.


Which shims did you need for your K200D and the Katzeye?

The date and time is lost, nothing more.