[Naval]

I recently just bought a Pentax H3 with a Super-Takumar F1.4/50mm and have just gotten back my first pair of scans and negatives. Though there were some nice photos amongst the two rolls (Portra 160/Ilford HP5+) some came out like the ones I have attached. I am going out on a beginner's limb here and going to guess that those are due to both light leaks and lens flare. I am not 100% certain of what to do to fix either. I've heard I should buy a lens hood and I should replace the light seals. If any of the two, what should I get? I'd appreciate any help.

Attached Images

     

[photoaki]

New seals and lens hood are definitely good ideas, but I am not sure either would solve what you’re showing.

Light leak should affect all the frames.
Have you looked at the negatives? Maybe the scans are the problem.

[Naval]

New seals and lens hood are definitely good ideas, but I am not sure either would solve what you’re showing.

Light leak should affect all the frames.
Have you looked at the negatives? Maybe the scans are the problem.

I have not yet, is it possible the film wasn't properly on the railing too? I haven't yet gotten the negatives back as the shop is closed until Monday. I will have to wait til then. How probable is it that I could fix this with better scans, lens hood, new seals?

[leekil]

Light leak should affect all the frames.

Light leak may not affect all the frames if it is a small one. It would affect the frames that were sitting near the leak longer, like if you took some photos in quick succession, they might have unnoticeable leaks.

[Naval]

Light leak may not affect all the frames if it is a small one. It would affect the frames that were sitting near the leak longer, like if you took some photos in quick succession, they might have unnoticeable leaks.

I just checked my camera's seals and they seem very worn and some small spots are simply not sealed at all. I figure this must be the issue. I'm not to sure how to go about replacing them though.

[Michail_P]

Having the light seals checked and served is a first step in any case. The absence of a hood is an issue only in harsh direct light. I would think something is wrong with the roll or the scan, assuming that development is done right.

[pres589]

There are YouTube videos describing how to change light seals. I do my own. Lighter fluid as a solvent + toothpicks and a metal pick (careful with that) to get the old seal material out, new seals cut myself using light seal foam (1mm thick for the long door seals, 2mm at the shorter ends of the door) purchased online that I cut with a cheap rotary fabric cutter on a cutting board. Usually takes an hour or so for me to change light seals out on a newly purchased old camera. Also want to check the mirror damper pad. Be very careful to not drop old seal material into the camera as you clean the old stuff away.

[Just1MoreDave]

The last photo has definite lens flare, because the colored blobs in the upper center are hexagons. That's the shape of the aperture blades. You can often see flare in the viewfinder. A hood will help shade the lens as long as the sun isn't in the frame. I don't know why hoods aren't too common for the standard 50 or 55mm lenses, but a generic hood with a 49mm filter thread should work.

[Naval]

There are YouTube videos describing how to change light seals. I do my own. Lighter fluid as a solvent + toothpicks and a metal pick (careful with that) to get the old seal material out, new seals cut myself using light seal foam (1mm thick for the long door seals, 2mm at the shorter ends of the door) purchased online that I cut with a cheap rotary fabric cutter on a cutting board. Usually takes an hour or so for me to change light seals out on a newly purchased old camera. Also want to check the mirror damper pad. Be very careful to not drop old seal material into the camera as you clean the old stuff away.

Would the same thickness be fine for my camera? I'm having a hard time finding the right material for this.

[pres589]

Naval: Here is a link to an Amazon page where I purchased the foam I've used. I was wrong, I used 1mm and 3mm foams.


amazon.com : Camera Light Seal Foam 250 X 125 X 1.0mm(9.84 X 4.92 X 0.03 in) : Electronics?tag=pentaxforums-20&

I think it's pretty common to use thicker foam on the ends of the film door so that's what I did as well. 3mm foam seems to work well as material for mirror damper pads as well.

[Naval]

Naval: Here is a link to an Amazon page where I purchased the foam I've used. I was wrong, I used 1mm and 3mm foams.


amazon.com : Camera Light Seal Foam 250 X 125 X 1.0mm(9.84 X 4.92 X 0.03 in) : Electronics?tag=pentaxforums-20&

I think it's pretty common to use thicker foam on the ends of the film door so that's what I did as well. 3mm foam seems to work well as material for mirror damper pads as well.

Thank you for the help.

[builttospill]

I purchase my light seal replacement kits from Jon Goodman. They come precut for your exact camera and includes detailed instructions. They are very inexpensive but he has a very good reputation for quality seals. You can email him at jgood21967@aol.com and let him know your camera model and he'll give you a quote.

[Naval]

I purchase my light seal replacement kits from Jon Goodman. They come precut for your exact camera and includes detailed instructions. They are very inexpensive but he has a very good reputation for quality seals. You can email him at jgood21967@aol.com and let him know your camera model and he'll give you a quote.

I have, but no response.

[pres589]

I bought one of his kits and thought that the material used was... very minimal. I've been happier cutting my own.

My 2 cents to do with what you wish.

[builttospill]

I have, but no response.

This is strange. He was recently traveling, so you may want to try him again.

I just installed his seal kit on a Nikon F2. I would not have wanted to cut my own. There are several seals, including two under the removable viewfinder. I found his material of very high quality.