[RoseyD]

Hi all, not sure how to trouble shoot this issue. I upgraded my pentax k10 to the full frame. I had no trouble using my 43mm prime, but just bought used 100 f2.8 and 35 f2. Primes both are supposed to be auto and full frame capable. My screen is not capturing focal info and when I looked through the menus, page 4 - set focal length is grayed out.

Has anyone experienced this? How do I fix it? It seems to read my zoom 15x30 mm. I'm getting frustrated that it seems to limit my use of these other primes.

Please advise.

Kind regards,
Rose

[sergysergy]

Are those A, M or F / FA lenses? if they have autofocus I don't think you need to enter the focal length.

[UncleVanya]

Are those A, M or F / FA lenses? if they have autofocus I don't think you need to enter the focal length.

I agree. F/FA/DA/D FA all communicate focal length. All should be setup in the A aperture position if an aperture ring is present. If the lens is a third party lens like Irix some lenses that are not autofocus also have the data pin and communicate focal length but that’s rare.

---------- Post added 07-31-22 at 05:01 PM ----------

Hi all, not sure how to trouble shoot this issue. I upgraded my pentax k10 to the full frame. I had no trouble using my 43mm prime, but just bought used 100 f2.8 and 35 f2. Primes both are supposed to be auto and full frame capable. My screen is not capturing focal info and when I looked through the menus, page 4 - set focal length is grayed out.

Has anyone experienced this? How do I fix it? It seems to read my zoom 15x30 mm. I'm getting frustrated that it seems to limit my use of these other primes.

Please advise.

Kind regards,
Rose

Rose can you take a phone pic of the screen when shooting the various lenses and maybe post a few jpg photos with Exif data intact so we can see what’s happening?

[RoseyD]

The 100mm is the pentax dfa macro.
The other, an FA 35mm 2

I'm not sure why the camera reads the FA 43, and not these others.

[UncleVanya]

The 100mm is the pentax dfa macro.
The other, an FA 35mm 2

I'm not sure why the camera reads the FA 43, and not these others.

Are all on A on the aperture ring? When you play back the files they show what focal length?

[AfterPentax Mark II]

menus, page 4 - set focal length is grayed out.

Which means that the camera can read the lens information and applies it to SR. First suggestion is to clean the contacts on the lenses and camera mount. What do you mean by

My screen is not capturing focal info

.
And which screen is not capturing the focal info? And of course as suggested: what kind of lenses are you using? As the 43mm works it must be something that is not compatible with camera or wrongly set on the lenses.

[RoseyD]

It's fixed. It was the switch to A on the lens.

So relieved! Thank you all gorgeous trouble shooting ... the camera is so much more menu driven and challenging than my old k10. Amazing what 15 + years of tech updates present...

[mikesbike]

It's fixed. It was the switch to A on the lens.

So relieved! Thank you all gorgeous trouble shooting ... the camera is so much more menu driven and challenging than my old k10. Amazing what 15 + years of tech updates present...

Quite an upgrade! When you decided for an upgrade, you weren't kidding around! I'm sure you will be happy with the advancements in imaging quality.

Of course, coming from a K10D, you are probably not using the green "auto" setting of your mode dial, which disengages controls and disallows access to most adjustments. The "P"mode is best for fully automated selection of aperture and shutter speed when or if you desire this, as it allows full access to all controls and adjustments, including the exclusive Pentax Hyper System.

If you often shoot JPEG images right out of the camera for time-saving convenience, like the K10D, the K-1 II has a conservative amount of in-camera sharpening as its "normal" centered setting. But the K-1 II has far greater meaningful adjustability than has the K10D. Simply go into the Custom Image menus to adjust this factor, accessed via the button to the right of the "OK" button. These 4 outer buttons will then be for navigation. The camera might already be set to the most often-used "Bright" category, which is good for many scenarios. . Open its menus, tab down to Sharpening. You will see that in the "Bright" category, the sharpening level is already up by +1 as its "normal". With this model camera, I increase that level by one more notch to +2, then set up "Fine Sharpening" by using the rear thumb dial for improved fine detail. Then hit "OK" and just shut off the camera- you are done. The K-1 II has an excellent in-camera processor, capable of great results right out of the camera.

And, welcome to the forum!

[RoseyD]

Oh my God! I needed this advice too! I've been very hesitant to make many changes to the tools offered, so early into using this camera.
It does seem like a really good camera, and yes, a huge upgrade. I loved the k10d. But at one point, I shelved it and stopped taking pictures. Years later, I decided to pull it out and start again. The battery, of course, is dead. I'm not sure where I put the charger. ... so, decided to use my bonus on new equipment. as if I really needed that excuse.

---------- Post added 08-02-22 at 10:37 AM ----------

Of course.. so many of my k10d DAlenses are not really usable with the k1ii I may need to consider the k3 upgrade too, eventually. I really used to enjoy the DA21.
But for this moment the k1 ii is enough to keep me busy. And I have some old manual glass in that drawer to play with once I have explored the current new glass a bit more.

Talking new glass, the 15-30mm is a heavy beast! I don't know if one uses that as a carry lens... I'm happy to have it... but am hoping there's a smaller auto 15mm prime out there for full frame.

[brofkand]

Oh my God! I needed this advice too! I've been very hesitant to make many changes to the tools offered, so early into using this camera.
It does seem like a really good camera, and yes, a huge upgrade. I loved the k10d. But at one point, I shelved it and stopped taking pictures. Years later, I decided to pull it out and start again. The battery, of course, is dead. I'm not sure where I put the charger. ... so, decided to use my bonus on new equipment. as if I really needed that excuse.

---------- Post added 08-02-22 at 10:37 AM ----------

Of course.. so many of my k10d DAlenses are not really usable with the k1ii I may need to consider the k3 upgrade too, eventually. I really used to enjoy the DA21.
But for this moment the k1 ii is enough to keep me busy. And I have some old manual glass in that drawer to play with once I have explored the current new glass a bit more.

Talking new glass, the 15-30mm is a heavy beast! I don't know if one uses that as a carry lens... I'm happy to have it... but am hoping there's a smaller auto 15mm prime out there for full frame.

The Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 is an affordable option for full frame. It is manual focus but has automatic aperture capabilities, just set the aperture ring to the A position.

[mikesbike]

Well, the DA 21mm f/3.2 Ltd is a very nice-performing APS-C lens at a FL that is great for carrying as an all-around prime to address many scenes. That same FOV on your FF K-1 II would be the HD FA 31mm f/1.8 Ltd, not as small as the DA 21mm, but still quite compact, considering having a much faster aperture, and is one great lens. Wide open, it delivers already very good imaging but with substantial vignetting, which disappears very rapidly when stopping down even a little bit. This FOV, like the DA 21mm Ltd on APS-C, presents a wide angle that is not too wide, hence the versatility for a walk-around prime, and it is still not all that heavy on your K-1 II. In fact, it balances very well. The newer HD version is once again the way to go, as performance against flair for even better clarity is a considerable advancement.

Just for more detailed comparison, I looked up testing for both lenses. The DA 21mm Ltd also exhibits substantial vignetting wide open, which for this lens is f/3.2, and also has a fair degree of linear distortion- but not too bad for a 21mm lens, especially of such a small size. This of course was tested in the narrower FOV of APS-C.

Also tested in the narrower FOV of APS-C, the FA 31mm Ltd exhibited about the same vignetting wide open, but this was at f/1.8 (and would show more in the K-1 II's wider full-frame). However, the vignetting was greatly diminished by stopping down only to f/2.2 and virtually gone completely by f/2.8, an exceptional outcome! With the DA 21mm, it took f/5.6 to get vignetting down to the low level of the FA 31mm at f/2.8, and linear distortion also measured far lower with the FA 31mm- which is easily good enough for architectural photography. Edge-of-frame sharpness, as well as central sharpness at wider apertures than the DA 21mm is capable of, is much better with the FA 31mm than some wider apertures the DA 21mm is capable of. Not saying the DA 21mm is not a fine lens, but to show how great the HD FA 31mm Ltd is!

[RoseyD]

All good thoughts. I'm going to play with the pentax 15-30 this weekend and decide if I am looking for a prime in the 15 range or will be satisfied with the 31 mm.

The rokinon seems to have good reviews and very affordable. I did just buy that 35 mm f2 to play with.

[mikesbike]

I did just buy that 35 mm f2 to play with.

This is also an outstanding lens. Still wide angle (just), but not as wide FOV as the 21mm on APS-C. It is likewise a very good, versatile FL for a walk-around prime lens, and it is very compact and lightweight. Build quality is not in the same league as a Limited lens, nor is the feel for manual focusing, but this is a bargain lens for the performance it is capable of. This FA 35mm f/2 (which performs very well even wide open), on the K-1 II presents a FOV like a 24mm lens would on APS-C. But unfortunately, there is no 24mm lens that can match the performance capabilities of the FA 35mm f/2 on APS-C or on the K-1 II.

[RoseyD]

Well, I have about 2 months to play and discover what is the best gear for a long weekend girls trip to Iceland. (October). - I'm considering to take a few lenses - but, really don't want to overload a bag with too much glass. - I want something wide angle for the northern lights. (already expect to bring a tripod for this) - and, perhaps one other prime. I'm vying toward my 43mm (as of this moment, for the daytime walk around lens)

[UncleVanya]

Well, I have about 2 months to play and discover what is the best gear for a long weekend girls trip to Iceland. (October). - I'm considering to take a few lenses - but, really don't want to overload a bag with too much glass. - I want something wide angle for the northern lights. (already expect to bring a tripod for this) - and, perhaps one other prime. I'm vying toward my 43mm (as of this moment, for the daytime walk around lens)

The DA* 11-18 is a nice lens... and it gives FF images around the long end. 18mm on a K1 is still quite wide.

Manual focus primes are another option and the Samyang (as already mentioned) is a good option if you want really really wide. You may however be able to use a 24mm or 20mm legacy lens in manual focus for a cheap and light option. The 20mm's are harder to find but wider.

Here's a site that seems to give good info - but just take the carbon fiber cheerleading with a grain of salt. https://www.davemorrowphotography.com/2014/10/how-to-photograph-northern-lights.html