Originally posted by jonh
Originally posted by luckylu
At the start if you use burst mode with the 18-135mm then it might unblock mine did but had to keep doing it every time I switched it on.
The burst mode did in fact unblock it and it works normally for a period of time.
If I shut off the camera and leave it for 10 min the problem returns but can again be fixed using the burst method.
Burst mode is not a good idea! You can do further damage!
I don't know which cobblers somewhere on the www do still recommend such really a silly practice!!! (not you both, you just got it from somewhere else!)
Originally posted by jonh
But I guess this is pretty conclusive that this is the aperture block problem.
Curious that this issue is present only in my 18-135mm lens. The other zoom lens does not exhibit any problems (at least not yet).
I'd say it is pretty sure ABF or better the beginning (and usually it rapidly develops stronger).
As others mentioned, if your 55-300 is the latest PLM version, this lens is not affected!
Originally posted by jonh
I checked out the link but I'm still not sure if it's the aperture block issue.
As per the instructions, Method 1 outcome is exactly as described (in Av mode @ F3.5 the image is dark while @ F22 the image is bright)
Then it is ABF for sure!
The only test you need!
If applied as you did and wide open = dark and full closed = alright it is for 99,99% ABF
If something with the lever of the lens would be wrong, one would NOT get those symptoms.
Originally posted by jonh
Using Method 2, looking into the lens and going into Live View mode I can see the aperture move correctly (which I assume means the solenoid is working)
Yes, and that happens often at the beginning. The solenoid gets an extra surge of power due to the way LV works.
It is all explained here:
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/53-pentax-dslr-camera-articles/389194-li...x-cameras.html
And then, apply:
Tutorial/Repair Pentax K-70 with aperture-problem: Exchange solenoid - PentaxForums.com