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10-09-2022, 11:48 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by photogem Quote
There are 2 very different Pentax 16-45's:
a) DA*16-50/2,8 SDM (large, SDM which often fails but can be converted). Didn't like it.
b) DA 16-45 /4 (older and superior)
I had the 16-45 F4. It was plenty sharp. The only drawback was the CA issue which was easily fixable in post. The 20-40 is in a different league. It is a legend and rightfully so.

10-09-2022, 12:55 PM - 2 Likes   #32
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Another vote for 18-135, here. Cheap enough that if you want to upgrade later, you haven't "wasted" much, but high quality and versatile enough that you will probably always find a use for it.


You might also benefit from checking out this article.
10-11-2022, 07:35 AM - 1 Like   #33
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All good advice here. I have a bunch of lenses, but if I'm taking one or there's a threat of rain I'm packing my 18-135. I have been out in rainy conditions with that lens and the AF-201 and both have been fine. They're a solid pairing. The 18-135 at 70ish is pretty darn sharp and I really like its motorized focus.
10-11-2022, 07:49 AM - 2 Likes   #34
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I can suggest two lenses for the first part of your question, i.e. landscapes. For years I have used both the Sigma 10-20mm zoom, and well as the Pentax 10-17mm fisheye zoom. Both are capable of good results, and I recently returned from Switzerland where the Sigma was the only lens I used on my KP for the whole trip, and it coped with snowscapes, vast mountain vistas, and a number of shots that included mountains, snow and the sun in the same frame-very little flare or ghost images. Previously I have used the 10-17 fisheye zoom on a trip to lake Garda, and providing you take care regarding horizons you can achieve excellent landscapes and seascapes with the lens, especially since by 17mm it is effectively a true wide-angle less most of the whacky distortion the fisheye can bring. Used with care the images can have an intense colour, and add a little something extra to any vista.

10-11-2022, 08:19 AM   #35
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The Pentax kit lenses are all a exceptional good value. I started with a K7 and the 18-55 and 55-200 combo. Once you improve your techniques they will yield excellent results. If you want to future proof your system I would suggest the FA 28-105mm lens, this would be my choice and I think from my experience this to be an exceptional value. Any of the Pentax lenses will yield excellent results but you will need to understand your camera and lens capabilities and limitations. Read your manual and read it again. The Pentax camera manuals by using Ivon Bourque available here on the forum are excellent and offer very good advice for settings and modes. But plan to spend some time to view and critque your images on your computer. Try to understand why you are not satisfied with your results. The folks here are an excellent source of info, you just need to ask.
10-11-2022, 08:24 AM - 1 Like   #36
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Tamron 17-50

I like the suggestions of the 18-135 or the 16-85 over the kit lens. But of course go with the kit lens if it fits your budget.

I got my son a K70 for his 21st birthday and later got him a used Tamron 17-50 f2.8 from Amazon for about $175. The IQ is either better or equal to my Pentax 16-50 f2.8 and it's quite a bit lighter. He also has my 55-300 on permanent loan and loves it.
10-11-2022, 08:35 AM   #37
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For beginners, I would recommend to start 28-105 for full frame or 16-85 (instead of 18-55) for APS-C, so to get yourself familiar with popular focal lengths while enjoy shooting a wide range of subjects. Once you are comfortable using this zoom lens, I would recommend going back to multiple prime lens to deepen your understanding of those common focal lengths and find your favorite. After that, I think it's time to get your hands on so-called trinity lens…

10-11-2022, 09:06 AM   #38
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Excellent though the 'kit ' lenses are for the Pentax APSC cameras, when I was using film, I always reckoned that for decent landscapes I needed a 24mm lens, which not only enabled one to get more width in the shot, but also excellent depth of field in the picture which could enable flora to be incorporated in the landscape in the foreground, adding to the depth of the photograph. Translate that 24mm intom APSC terms, and the minimum focal length would be 16mm. hence my recommendation of the 10-20 Sigma, which does add to the lens arsenal without too much overlap.
And speaking of depth of field, when you are experimenting with manual focus ( which I highly recommend , rarely using AF myself), also look at the often overlooked took lens stop-down. which gives a preview of the depth of field available at the taking aperture. Sadly there are not many Pentax DSLRs that still have this feature, and it is not helped by many lenses no longer having aperture rings either-presumably the argument is that you can preview the DOF by taking a shot first? If there is no stop-down control, and the lens has an aperture ring, it is possible to get an idea of the depth of field by releasing the lens-lock, and backing the lens through no more than about 15 degrees. Since the aperture lever on the lens is held by the camera aperture control lever, when the lens is rotated by the amount suggested, the lens aperture lever is released and will allow the lens to stop down to the taking aperture. The viewfinder will then show the depth of field. Just ensure if you do try this you do NOT exceed the 15degree rotation otherwise the lens will part company with the camera! I also suggest you use the viewfinder to judge the depth of field rather than the live view screen.

Back to manual focus, where the lens allows you to use it, the best method of hitting the exact focus point is to roughly focus initially, and then turn the focus ring back and forth in progressively smaller amounts until you are happy the image is sharp. Always focus at full aperture since it will give you the brightest image, and the smallest depth of field , making the best viewing conditions to ensure sharp focus. As you will soon learn, AF is not perfect, and can be fooled in a number of situations. As someone who started photography before the concept of AF even existed, manual focus is just second nature to me. AF has its uses, and my compact pocket camera is on AF 99% of the time, but my Pentax KP, rarely ever.
10-11-2022, 09:15 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by hyperspaceexplorer Quote
I guess should check the lenses first before checking the body according to some posts here. I have seen kits with lenses 24-105mm, 28-105mm, 18-55mm, 18-135mm.

  • Which lenses are optimal to use for learning-the ones that comes in a kit with the camera body or a different lens?
  • For a newbie, which should I pay more attention in learning and getting good at it first - auto focus or manual focus?
On my recent post, I have stated about both still images and video. But in terms of priority, it is still images on the top, then video.


According to this article, auto focus are good for beginners and should use it first before moving to manual focus. Unless I am misunderstanding it.

https://www.lifewire.com/auto-focus-vs-manual-focus-492950

Many thanks to everyone.
Hi hyperspaceexplorer,
As you also mention flora and fauna, I would recommend the 18-135mm (for APS-C)
10-11-2022, 09:33 AM   #40
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Your first lens should be; Find on Ebay a used 28-300mm PK mount with lens covers front and back, also consider if your camera has image stablization,if not then get a lens that does. New people take a lot of blurry picts
10-11-2022, 09:47 AM - 2 Likes   #41
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My advice is to get an old cheap fully manual lens. Basically any Pentax 50mm is a good place to start and won't cost much. Atleast I didn't really grasp photography before I let go of auto functions for awhile.
10-11-2022, 11:34 AM - 1 Like   #42
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If I was telling the me from 2006 when I first got my first 'real camera' what to do in this situation, it would be to use the 18-55 kit zoom and learn it to death. Try shooting at least a half dozen shots a day doing something different than the day before. Watch videos, ask questions on this very forum (which I didn't know about then and wish I had), read and interact with folks that know what they're doing. Just shoot the daylights out of the camera and cheap kit zoom. Digitalis mentioned something about 'first 10k pictures won't be fine art' and that's good guidance. I do like the suggestion of a cheap manual prime, especially an M or K series prime (would love a 100 or so mm macro!) but if the guy already has something like the 18-55, he's set for a long time.
10-11-2022, 01:08 PM - 1 Like   #43
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I'll be brief....
One lens... DA 18-135: fast DC motor, excellent 20mm-50mm. Excellent centre sharpness through its whole range. Soft pn the edges after 55mm.

Two lenses
DA 16-85 DA 55-300 PLM

Third lenses.
DFA 100 macro
DA* 55 1.4
HD DA 1.4 TC for the 55-300.

OK, then budget kit.

DA 50 ƒ1.8
DA 18-55
Sigma 70-300 (probably used)

This budget kit was all needed for my first 5 years in digital. The Sigma won't work with the HD DA 1.4 TC, so don't buy it if you plan to buy the TC. Starting. with the 18-55 and the DA 50 1.8 gives you a lot of options, for not that much money.
10-11-2022, 05:36 PM - 1 Like   #44
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As GUB said, you might want to consider a 50mm lens as your start point. If you later want wider, add something in the 31-35mm range. If you want longer, add a 100mm macro. Learn to see, learn to use your equipment to best advantage. In a year or two, consider auto focus and zooms, because by then you will know how to control and effectively use your camera and won’t let the gadgets get in your way.
10-11-2022, 09:25 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by stanh Quote
As GUB said, you might want to consider a 50mm lens as your start point. If you later want wider, add something in the 31-35mm range. If you want longer, add a 100mm macro. Learn to see, learn to use your equipment to best advantage. In a year or two, consider auto focus and zooms, because by then you will know how to control and effectively use your camera and won’t let the gadgets get in your way.
In general a very good suggestion, but for landscape way I find it too limited.
(There I like the idea of a Sigma 10-20... which I have as well and for architecture and indoors when I use the KP)


An 28-300 as somebody suggested would only be acceptable on Full-Frame!
But the OP.... as far as I understood it... (different thread!) considers the K70!

I myself dislike such superzooms, even the DA18-270 isn't that special at all. I would prefer the kitlens 18-55 WR and a Tamron 70-300 or even the old DA55-300 without PLM, even the 50-200WR which isn't that bad as some say)


I often change the set of lenses and intentionally limit myself doing so.
But when I travel with a 50mm lens landscape is very limited.

A lens I like very much is the SMC Pentax DA14/2,8 (I prefer it over the DA15 ltd)
I travelled with the KP + DA14 + DA55-300PLM and felt this was a great choice. I had a 50mm as well but never used it on that trip.
The DA55-300PLM is very good at 55mm

Manual focus: I come from MF ... actually everything was manual in the beginning.
And for a long time I was happy using it with many of my manual lenses.
But eyesight isn't as it was. I don't like having to change glasses (LCD) and no glasses OVF... and my glasses are very good (Zeiss)
So sadly MF is less and less what I am using... too bad.

I know of elder people who are willing MF but young people hardly.
Good enough that young people start DSLR and Av or Tv.

Most Pentax DSLR I had for repair comming from young people were set on AUTO! The worst you can do. A smartphone then will produce better pics.

Anyway, I think ´now we should wait what response comes from the OP.
Otherwise it's going to be a jungle for him.
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