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11-07-2022, 11:56 AM   #1
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K1 Does not take sharp photos anymore

Hi, My friend has a problem with her K1, photos are not sharp anymore even with manual focus. In live view the picture seems to be sharp, but on photo, it feels like sensor is moving little bit. Problem occurs with all lenses and in all settings,AA filter on and off MF, AF, IBIS on and of, on the tripod and hand held even with shutter speed 1/2000s. I personally think it might be the sensor, but maybe someone have had same problem. I added on photo that has been cropped 100% and you can see it lacks sharpness.

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Last edited by OrchidJulie; 11-07-2022 at 12:31 PM.
11-07-2022, 12:50 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by Madisrohtmets Quote
Hi, My friend has a problem with her K1
Best thing to do is to take some test shots with the camera on a tripod of well lit images. Link to them here with all exif intact The very dark image you have posted unfortunately is no good at showing or identifying the problem.

Take a variety of images using VF AF, LV AF and LV manual focus. Then we can try and sort it out.
11-07-2022, 01:35 PM   #3
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Sometimes, a hard camera reset might help to reset some settings inadvertently used. Take off the battery fr at least 24 h (better 48 h). Recharge fully the battery and make sure that the battery is still charging fully with max voltage. Afte 24 h (better 48 h), replace the battery.
Also, double check the SC card(s) and try using brand new SD cards.
My 5 cents hoping that it could help.....
11-07-2022, 01:37 PM   #4
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if your friend has a flickr acct where we can see the exif data, will be easier to help. as the previous reply/s said, take a picture with good lighting at base iso with a fast shutter speed with a few lenses. make sure battery is charged and holding the right voltage. is it a budget lens on a camera with 500,000 actuations and a battery from 2016 in the dark and it was just dropped? probably not, but can't really judge. it looks like a bad pixel shift image or even a decentered lens, but impossible to say for sure until we know more.

11-07-2022, 02:09 PM   #5
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I would suggest that she use the viewfinder itself to take some test shots, with the AF on and set to AF.C (autofocus continuous) and AF area set to center point (single center point) in some good lighting. If she is looking for deep detail, she can use a higher number F stop number for example F/11 and above. Otherwise for just simple testing, in good light set the camera on a tripod, use sensible settings, for example shutter speed 125, F/11, and an ISO that is suitable for the light available, outdoors being the best light scenario. If the camera is taking pictures, it may be that the settings and overall lighting need to be appropriate, while a tripod will allow for longer shutter speed times if more light is needed in a landscape scenario.

Using the TAV auto mode may also aid in providing an AUTO ISO exposure while the user provides the shutter speed and F stop setting (aperture setting).
11-08-2022, 08:26 AM   #6
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Be sure to check the focus using magnification in Liveview when doing manually focused test shots. An image can look good on liveview without magnification, but the focus point can still be off. Using focus peaking will also help. If shake reduction, anti-aliasing, and auto-image leveling are switched off (as you mentioned was done), there shouldn't be any movement of the sensor to affect sharpness.
11-08-2022, 08:34 AM   #7
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Thanks for answers. I added too little detail to the problem i think. She is experienced shooter and tried to avoid all the rookie mistakes. The photo above is taken with Pentax 24-70 f13. I see lot of you suggest some autofocus tricks and the problem is that it is not possible to get sharp images even with manual focus, so the AF should not be the problem. All photos have the same problem, does not matter what lens she uses. If you look those photos without zooming, they seem to be just fine, but if you zoom in to 100% they are not the same as they use to be.I added google drive link with four RAW photos. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cZF-vbdErF37PdsOZ2v7nI6R2uyH9jLj?usp=share_link


Last edited by Madisrohtmets; 11-08-2022 at 09:48 AM.
11-08-2022, 09:06 AM   #8
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I still can't see the photos.....or your links..... but it sounds like a calibration issue that would need to be handled by a repair service. As for the image posted, it's under-exposed, probably could have used an ƒ-stop of ƒ8. Personally, I'd like an image taken with a tripod and possibly a 2 second delay.

I downloaded one of the sunsets.... it is weird in that it looks sharp reduced 2:1. If your friend really wants the images, I put the 3rd sunset image into Topaz Sharpen AI and it cleaned up nicely. But I'd still look for professional advice.

Last edited by normhead; 11-08-2022 at 09:17 AM.
11-08-2022, 09:45 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
I still can't see the photos.....or your links..... but it sounds like a calibration issue that would need to be handled by a repair service. As for the image posted, it's under-exposed, probably could have used an ƒ-stop of ƒ8. Personally, I'd like an image taken with a tripod and possibly a 2 second delay.

I downloaded one of the sunsets.... it is weird in that it looks sharp reduced 2:1. If your friend really wants the images, I put the 3rd sunset image into Topaz Sharpen AI and it cleaned up nicely. But I'd still look for professional advice.
Is this effect the same all across the frame? I have a similar problem, not entirely sharp anymore, but only in the upper right sector of the frame. And the picture becomes sharper there when you look at closer objects. Happens with all lenses. The camerabag took a fall, and I can date this effect to this event. Something on the sensor got decalibrated, tilted, bent.


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11-08-2022, 09:48 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by normhead Quote
I still can't see the photos.....or your links..... but it sounds like a calibration issue that would need to be handled by a repair service. As for the image posted, it's under-exposed, probably could have used an ƒ-stop of ƒ8. Personally, I'd like an image taken with a tripod and possibly a 2 second delay.

I downloaded one of the sunsets.... it is weird in that it looks sharp reduced 2:1. If your friend really wants the images, I put the 3rd sunset image into Topaz Sharpen AI and it cleaned up nicely. But I'd still look for professional advice.
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11-08-2022, 10:04 AM   #11
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K1 has several focus aids, viewfinder screen, AF indicator, on screen/ live view. I understand none of them works at all, not even live view. In that case the camera-sensor is either out of alignment, the sensor moves somehow or image processing has trouble. If live view with stopped down aperture does not provide sharp images, send the camera for repair/alignment.
If live view would provide sharp results and AF indicator or on screen would not, there are several possible causes. What has your friend changed recently? In case you recently attached a quick release late, take it off. An overtightened screw can push the AF sensor out of alignment, but manual focus in live view would still work…
11-08-2022, 10:08 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by LHK Quote
Is this effect the same all across the frame? I have a similar problem, not entirely sharp anymore, but only in the upper right sector of the frame. And the picture becomes sharper there when you look at closer objects. Happens with all lenses. The camerabag took a fall, and I can date this effect to this event. Something on the sensor got decalibrated, tilted, bent.


Lutz
These types of images are difficult for sharpening software, you pretty much have to sharpen selectively. Always a lot more work than consistently unsharp across the whole frame.
11-08-2022, 11:21 AM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by Madisrohtmets Quote
Thanks for answers. I added too little detail to the problem i think. She is experienced shooter and tried to avoid all the rookie mistakes. The photo above is taken with Pentax 24-70 f13. I see lot of you suggest some autofocus tricks and the problem is that it is not possible to get sharp images even with manual focus, so the AF should not be the problem. All photos have the same problem, does not matter what lens she uses. If you look those photos without zooming, they seem to be just fine, but if you zoom in to 100% they are not the same as they use to be.I added google drive link with four RAW photos. Update your browser to use Google Drive, Docs, Sheets, Sites, Slides, and Forms - Google Drive Help
I only opened the first photo. I see no obvious sharpness problem but there is some visible noise. If you use Topaz Denoise in order to both reduce noise and increase sharpness, you can obtain a good result. I updated a jpg showing the result in your G. folder (by the way, I can see a big dust spot on top of a tree, I left it ; the corners are softer than the rest but it is common).
11-08-2022, 11:47 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by tryphon4 Quote
I only opened the first photo. I see no obvious sharpness problem but there is some visible noise. If you use Topaz Denoise in order to both reduce noise and increase sharpness, you can obtain a good result. I updated a jpg showing the result in your G. folder (by the way, I can see a big dust spot on top of a tree, I left it ; the corners are softer than the rest but it is common).
And also note, Topaz DeNoise AI both reduces noise and sharpens, with slider bars for both. The amount of work I had to do on the image I worked on was 22 sharpening, 10 anti-noise. (2.2 out of 10 and 1 out of 10) so just used fraction of the sharpening and noise reduction available. However that being said, the presence of noise is a sign of serious under-exposure. A K-1 with a proper exposure doesn't produce visible noise at 100 ISO. Personally, I always take multiple images at different Apertures and from -3EV to +1 EV. That particular image should have been discarded. But that being said, it's not sharp enough. At 1:1 resolution it's far from what a K-1 is capable of.

I'd also note the ƒ13..... ƒ8 would have probably worked. Diffraction sets in between ƒ5.6 and ƒ8 on an FF. Only go above ƒ8 when necessary for DoF. This is more critical for distance images.... up close for macros, ƒ22 works well.

Last edited by normhead; 11-08-2022 at 12:18 PM.
11-08-2022, 12:47 PM - 1 Like   #15
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I had a look at the images. No problem with any of them as far as I can see.

They are underexposed, but no sharpness issues.
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