[Katagaria]

Please excuse how new I am to photography and the terms. I am trying to re-introduce myself to using my camera again after not using it for many years. I'm probably gonna sound silly here with how I describe things... I have tried searching for the answer, but I am not really sure how to word this.

So my camera does this thing, where when I point and click the silver-take-a-photo button, the lens makes a noise, adjusts, and then when I hold it down fully it takes a photo.. occasionally. Sometimes when I try to take a photo and snap a "moment" my camera won't let me, it doesn't click and take a photo. The lens focuses and basically goes "nope, can't take a photo of this." and won't take a photo.

I fiddle around with settings, and it has rarely made much of a difference. Usually when it is bright outside, it seems to be more willing to take a photo with each click, but not always. I just keep missing moments I want to photograph because the camera simply won't 'click' to take a photo.

What is happening here? What's this called? How can I change it? I hope this made some sense!

[Sir Nameless]

Check your menu settings for AF.S. There are two options, one will prevent you from taking a photo if the camera doesn't lock focus.

Menu button -> scroll right to menu C2, then go down to #12, AF.S setting. If it is setting 1 (focus priority, the default), then it won't take a picture unless it has focus. You can check if it has focus if you see the green hexagon in the viewfinder. One thing that might prevent focus is if you are too close to your subject. You can try backing up and seeing if that helps.

Or, you can change this to setting 2 (release-priority), which will allow you to take a picture even if the camera does not have focus confirmation.

See page 102 in your manual.

There might be other causes but this is what I would check out first.

[Katagaria]

Check your menu settings for AF.S. There are two options, one will prevent you from taking a photo if the camera doesn't lock focus.

Menu button -> scroll right to menu C2, then go down to #12, AF.S setting. If it is setting 1 (focus priority, the default), then it won't take a picture unless it has focus. You can check if it has focus if you see the green hexagon in the viewfinder. One thing that might prevent focus is if you are too close to your subject. You can try backing up and seeing if that helps.

Or, you can change this to setting 2 (release-priority), which will allow you to take a picture even if the camera does not have focus confirmation.

See page 102 in your manual.

There might be other causes but this is what I would check out first.

Ah! It was the AF.S setting! Thanks so much for your quick reply. I have so much I need to learn about my camera.

[AstroDave]

I have so much I need to learn about my camera.

It may seem boring, but it's never a bad idea to read (at least skim) the entire camera manual from cover-to-cover!! Some of the features/options will stick in your mind as something to take a look at when wondering what went wrong.

[Katagaria]

It may seem boring, but it's never a bad idea to read (at least skim) the entire camera manual from cover-to-cover!! Some of the features/options will stick in your mind as something to take a look at when wondering what went wrong.

I have no idea where the original manual is, I'll have to check for an online version. Thank you!

[Sir Nameless]

Ah! It was the AF.S setting! Thanks so much for your quick reply. I have so much I need to learn about my camera.

No prob! Hope you enjoy your new camera.

[JoelA]

Here's a link to the manual.

Have fun!

https://www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/english/support/man-pdf/k-50.pdf

[Just1MoreDave]

The too-close thing catches me all the time. That is an easy fix, just back up a little and try again.

[UncleVanya]

Another tip. The red lighted point in the viewfinder indicates WHERE it is attempting to focus but doesn’t indicate focus. The green HEXAGON in the viewfinder is what tells you the camera believes it is focused.

[mikesbike]

Ah! It was the AF.S setting! Thanks so much for your quick reply. I have so much I need to learn about my camera.

Indeed, do download that owners manual.

Actually, the default setting for AF-S being focus priority instead of release priority is generally the best setting, unless you want to generate a lot of out-of-focus blurry pictures. Your camera would fire whether anything is in focus or not. This can be an ok setting if you know what you are doing. With the standard setting, the camera will not fire unless focus on something has been achieved. This can help you learn how to use your camera's autofocus (AF) system to achieve good focus where you want it to be. Your camera is equipped with multiple focus points or AF sensors within the frame and the standard setting is for all being active and the camera's system to automatically choose which sensors will respond to the scene presented to it in the viewfinder, that is what within that scene will be the subject. If none of those sensors has something definite to grab onto, the camera has no report of any focus being achieved and will not fire. In the meantime, you might be looking through the VF at some portion of the scene you see as good the way you want it to be, but there happens to be no AF sensor at that spot, so nothing happens. This might be a good thing, because although the spot you think looks good to you might still not be focused all that well, and might not turn out to be as good as you expected. Or another AF sensor has grabbed onto another spot so the focus is at the wrong place. Usually, the camera's automatic multi-point AF system works very well, but sometimes the way your shot is framed throws it off.

There are optional settings other than release priority that would help you learn to achieve better results. One is, have the standard AF setting for focus priority/AF-S, but then simply switch the camera to to MF instead of AF-S or AF-C. Then you must focus your lenses manually- and the camera will fire whenever you fire the shutter button, whether or not focus has been achieved- you decide. This also helps you to train your eye to know when something is in focus, so that even when using AF you can keep an educated eye on how well AF is performing. It is not always perfect, even though it shows focus achieved. Many Pentax lenses have "quick shift"- a special Pentax feature allowing you to override the camera's AF to fine-tune focus manually. So first learn how to accurately focus manually, then you'll be more able to spot AF being off and can use the "Quick Shift" feature when needed. More on how to use it later.

Another technique involves setting just center-only spot AF, so just the one center AF point is active. Then you can train the camera on the precise spot or subject where you want to especially focus, as long as it has some clearly-defined detail, line of contrast, or edge for that sensor to grab onto. Use the 1/2 press of the shutter button to achieve focus, whereupon you will see it happen and hear a beep, along with the focus confirmation indicator. As long as you hold that 1/2 press so there will not be a re-focus, you can then move the camera to get the composition you wish, then complete the press-down to fire your shot. If you are photographing a person, focus on an eye, then re-compose. You can become very fast and proficient in this method. Many of us use it as part of ongoing normal modus operandi. Using multiple-point AF sensors is then reserved for situations involving moving subjects, and even then not always.

[kodai84]

One weird (and annoying) reason that bites me periodically is that a tiny little slider on side of my SIMM card (that makes it readonly) will accidently get pushed up when not carefully inserted into my K50. Has anyone else had this issue (or is it just me)?