Originally posted by jtbroncos I have a fairly new (about 3 months) K3-III. Makes total sense what you are saying about the older camera bodies, thank you for that info. I have an old 80-200 Pentax (F2.8) which I love but I'd like to have another full plus stop as some of these gyms literally have areas of the court that are almost dark. I shot a youth gymnastics tournament for a friend a the University of Denver and of course they stick the younger kids in smallest DU practice gym as opposed to Magnus arena where DU hockey plays. The practice gym was ridiculously dark which prompted my search for an additional lower cost 1.4 lens. I wanted something near a 50mm because I'm able to get really close to the action at these youth gymnastics tourneys (and wrestling tourneys) and I also thought it would be beneficial with the HS hoops too. At times during basketball games I'm too close with the 80-200 (end up cutting feet/legs off under the hoop) and I thought the additional stop would definitely help there too. Thanks again for all of the great info.
I have shot more wrestling tourneys over about 20 years years than I could count, (recently shot my first-ever grade-school tourney which included my coach-friend's 6-year old) and have not needed an especially fast lens for these because of flash being allowed. Indoor roller hockey is a different matter- much faster action and no flash, so I need a fast lens. Of course at first I just shot film. But in more recent times, digital has made this kind of venture much easier than having film processed and prints made. Now I just take a card reader and stick the SD card into it, then plug into a coach's computer for download.
The gym lighting is generally enough so the flash is as much for fill as it is for primary illumination, which is fine so the flash recycles quickly. Even if the lights were much brighter, the type of lighting is often hard to balance on its own to avoid odd coloration, and the downward illumination often creates significant shadows on downward-turned faces, all of which the flash helps to even out. I prefer to use a zoom lens to frame my shots as desired. If I am very close to the action, I might prefer my Sigma 17-50mm DC HSM f/2.8 as it allows plenty of aperture latitude, but my more general-purpose Pentax DA 18-135mm DC WR lens works fine too. I usually shoot in Manual mode, but sometimes in TV mode to regulate shutter speed in order to get a balance of clarity and perhaps adding some blur of the hands, feet, or a competitor flying through the air, while the camera will automatically fill in aperture. Usually the difference in distances and without narrow apertures being used, will create less sharpness of background compared to the competitors so they will stand out well enough, but at the same time I like to mostly have the background still very recognizable in order to capture plenty of context. For example, if the shot angle allows, I like to get the coaches and team-mates in the background shouting encouragement, or from a different angle perhaps some spectator reactions. This will make for more interesting results, and often will include people who are important to the participants, who will be saving these photos, and in future times will greatly value revisiting these events.
As to the DFA 50mm f/1.4- it is a wonderful lens. However, I do not need one. I do have the FA 50mm f/1.4 and know well of its shortcomings. However, these can be worked around. It is very good for portraits using APS-C, as razor sharpness is really not necessarily desirable for this usage anyway. It also sharpens up pretty well in the central area with just a bit of stopping down. I also have the Pentax "F" 50mm f/1.7 which is pretty sharp even wide open, even edge-to-edge. Discontinued, this is a very good lens at low cost used. if you shoot it at f/1.8 or at f/2 it will provide at least a stop better than f/2.8 and will perform sharper than the FA 50mm f/1.4 in that aperture range.
Last edited by mikesbike; 02-16-2023 at 05:18 PM.