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02-13-2024, 06:19 AM - 1 Like   #16
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I shoot the K3-3 and DFA 150-450 (plus TC) exclusively for wild life. I get about 95% in focus (composition is another thing)

I shoot exclusively TAV mode at 1/1000 between F9 and F11 (depending on lighting)

For most subjects I use center spot for focus, and use AF-C

For moving specifically BIF, I open the grid up to about 9x9 on the basis I think I can keep the bird roughly centered

I never use the full grid, because there is always too much background outside the focus range you don’t want, and I never use grid for swimming birds or animals on the ground because the tendency is to lock focus in the foreground as you found out.


Also note for distant / small subjects even center spot has a tendency to lock onto foreground somewhat due to vertical camera shake (of the user) and the fact that stabilization at the sensor does not keep the focus point aligned on the subject. This was the one advantage of optical stabilization, it steadied the image in the viewfinder

02-13-2024, 11:36 AM - 1 Like   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ski Jumper Quote
2 positive @450? Wow I'm at a -6 or -7 both k3 and k1. I must have a crappy copy.
I am just quoting arbitrary figures as an example. I have never needed to do calibration. My answer was in response to an earlier comment that stated that, as I didn't need to calibrate the lens on my K3ii, I would then never need to do it on my K3iii. I believe that it's perfectly possible that this could be possible. I appreciate that this has nothing to do with the camera focussing on the wrong object in the frame.
02-13-2024, 12:02 PM - 1 Like   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ski Jumper Quote
2 positive @450? Wow I'm at a -6 or -7 both k3 and k1. I must have a crappy copy.
A -6 or -7 does not indicate a crappy copy. Just that your lens/camera combo needs more adjustment than his does. There is a reason that camera manufacturers have added Fine Adjustment menu items in the last 10 years or so, It is to help you.

With a 6 or 10 MP camera you would not notice the difference. Now you do. So here is a fine tune aid to help you. Nothing crappy about that.
02-13-2024, 12:45 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
I shoot the K3-3 and DFA 150-450 (plus TC) exclusively for wild life. I get about 95% in focus (composition is another thing)

I shoot exclusively TAV mode at 1/1000 between F9 and F11 (depending on lighting)

For most subjects I use center spot for focus, and use AF-C

For moving specifically BIF, I open the grid up to about 9x9 on the basis I think I can keep the bird roughly centered

I never use the full grid, because there is always too much background outside the focus range you donít want, and I never use grid for swimming birds or animals on the ground because the tendency is to lock focus in the foreground as you found out.


Also note for distant / small subjects even center spot has a tendency to lock onto foreground somewhat due to vertical camera shake (of the user) and the fact that stabilization at the sensor does not keep the focus point aligned on the subject. This was the one advantage of optical stabilization, it steadied the image in the viewfinder
I'm right there with 'ya. Same mode and pretty much the same settings, except I typically open the aperture a bit, and use 1/1250 if in flight, although when there's little to no movement using AF.S and not continuous. I've had focus pulse at times with static subjects and AF.C

Also like you, I don't believe I've ever used the full grid except for some testing when I initially bought a K3III. Oh, and back-button is a biggie for me.

02-13-2024, 01:20 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
A -6 or -7 does not indicate a crappy copy. Just that your lens/camera combo needs more adjustment than his does. There is a reason that camera manufacturers have added Fine Adjustment menu items in the last 10 years or so, It is to help you.

With a 6 or 10 MP camera you would not notice the difference. Now you do. So here is a fine tune aid to help you. Nothing crappy about that.
Thanks. Odd though, it's the same setting on my 2 k3iii's and k1. I've tried several methods from angled charts, min focus distance, 50x distance, yard sticks, dot method, all with similar results. (Except dot method didn't flicker or hesitate at a -10 so it was a guesstimate on the minus end) I've just read what others post and it's usually less correction. No biggy if it works.
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