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03-31-2009, 01:36 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
Canon cameras have no "Manual" mode? I find that a bit hard to believe.
Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant that there is no automatic iris operation with manual focus lenses on Canon dslrs, so you have to set the aperture wide open (so that there's enough light) to allow you to focus, and then set the aperture to the actual one you want.

I'm new to all this, so I could be wrong, but that's what I got from reading this article:

Canon EOS lens Adapters - Manual focus lenses on Canon EOS bodies

I'm so glad Pentax allows you to use manual focus lenses the "normal" way. I can't wait to get my k2000 and MF lens.

03-31-2009, 01:49 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by greentea3 Quote
Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant that there is no automatic iris operation with manual focus lenses on Canon dslrs, so you have to set the aperture wide open (so that there's enough light) to allow you to focus, and then set the aperture to the actual one you want.

I'm new to all this, so I could be wrong, but that's what I got from reading this article:

Canon EOS lens Adapters - Manual focus lenses on Canon EOS bodies

I'm so glad Pentax allows you to use manual focus lenses the "normal" way. I can't wait to get my k2000 and MF lens.
yup, due to the canon having no mechanical linkage between camera body and lens, the body has no way of operating the aperture. basically its like having a fully manual lens (manual aperture) and no light meter. canon is completely electronic in its communication and operation of lenses. you would be really happy if Pentax hadn't dropped the open aperture coupler for the light meter in the late 90's. because then you could do proper open aperture metering just like any manual focus Pentax K mount or late screw mount body. ie: no 'green button' required.
04-01-2009, 11:13 PM   #18
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One note - often the case is that the older lenses do not meter consistently, although they do expose consistently, across all the f/stops. My two M lenses seem to meter beautifully at f/8, so I meter there and then adjust as needed. There is a mechanical follower that is missing from the digital lens mount, and the camera has a bit of trouble.

If you use sunny 16 or an external meter, you need not worry. Just set and shoot. On my Flickr site there is a set where I tested the 400/5.6 M series on my K10D. I was looking to see if there were exposure differences using equivalent shutter/aperture settings. You can see from the images that the aperture was changed by the different depth of field, but the exposure values are spot on. I used sunny 16 for those. Having checked all that out, I then checked the aperture metering.

If you want to use the internal meter, there is an optional method that I much prefer, and coming from manual cameras you might as well. If you set the aperture and hold over the depth of field preview (make sure it is set to optical in the menus) you will get a good old fashioned exposure scale in your viewfinder and in the top LCD. Change aperture and/or shutter at will.
04-02-2009, 07:56 AM   #19
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One possible issue with older lenses, particularly telephoto, is CA/purple fringing. It can often be cleaned up somewhat in post-processing but this is an area that newer designs often do better. But I wouldn't allow that to frighten you out of trying for yourself.

04-02-2009, 09:23 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by AndrewG NY Quote
One possible issue with older lenses, particularly telephoto, is CA/purple fringing. It can often be cleaned up somewhat in post-processing but this is an area that newer designs often do better. But I wouldn't allow that to frighten you out of trying for yourself.
The main reason for this is the Bayer pattern of the sensor. Twice as many green pixels as red/blue. The camera firmware must determine the color of each pixel by looking at surrounding pixels and, on high contrast edges, there is a higher chance of the firmware getting it wrong. That's why the purple fringing isn't an issue with film or Foveon sensors - just Bayer. The coatings on newer lenses are designed to converge the color spectrum in a way that complements the Bayer sensor.
04-02-2009, 03:20 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by AndrewG NY Quote
One possible issue with older lenses, particularly telephoto, is CA/purple fringing. It can often be cleaned up somewhat in post-processing but this is an area that newer designs often do better. But I wouldn't allow that to frighten you out of trying for yourself.
I'll second that. My M 400/5.6, when tested against a back lit mule deer on snow with the sun behind her, gave me a (not so) gorgeous red outline where her dark coat was against the brightly lit snow.

On the other hand, with the same lens plus a 1.4X rear converter, I shot a pair of loons on a local lake and they turned out absolutely superbly. In today's post I received a 16x24 gallery wrap from Mpix, and the print is absolutely gorgeous! I know the red is there, but it does not show at all because of the dark water background.

Don't be afraid of a 30 year old, or 50 year old lens. Just test it, find out where it won't work properly, and use it elsewhere.
04-03-2009, 02:39 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
I'll second that. My M 400/5.6, when tested against a back lit mule deer on snow with the sun behind her, gave me a (not so) gorgeous red outline where her dark coat was against the brightly lit snow.

On the other hand, with the same lens plus a 1.4X rear converter, I shot a pair of loons on a local lake and they turned out absolutely superbly. In today's post I received a 16x24 gallery wrap from Mpix, and the print is absolutely gorgeous! I know the red is there, but it does not show at all because of the dark water background.

Don't be afraid of a 30 year old, or 50 year old lens. Just test it, find out where it won't work properly, and use it elsewhere.
I'm with Albert on this one. Both of us have a copy of the old M 400/5.6. The lens has some issues with CAs and PF is certain circumstances. But if you pick your spots you can get some shots with a little time and effort.



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Last edited by 8540tomg; 04-03-2009 at 02:47 PM. Reason: typo
04-03-2009, 03:34 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by 8540tomg Quote
I'm with Albert on this one. Both of us have a copy of the old M 400/5.6. The lens has some issues with CAs and PF is certain circumstances. But if you pick your spots you can get some shots with a little time and effort.

Common House Sparrow
That's a great shot, Tom.

04-11-2009, 10:22 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by greentea3 Quote
Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant that there is no automatic iris operation with manual focus lenses on Canon dslrs, so you have to set the aperture wide open (so that there's enough light) to allow you to focus, and then set the aperture to the actual one you want.

I'm new to all this, so I could be wrong, but that's what I got from reading this article:

Canon EOS lens Adapters - Manual focus lenses on Canon EOS bodies

I'm so glad Pentax allows you to use manual focus lenses the "normal" way. I can't wait to get my k2000 and MF lens.

By the way, does this work with m42 lenses, too? I mean, is there automatic iris operation so that I don't have to set the aperture wide open to focus, then set the aperture to the actual one I want?
04-11-2009, 10:32 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by greentea3 Quote
By the way, does this work with m42 lenses, too? I mean, is there automatic iris operation so that I don't have to set the aperture wide open to focus, then set the aperture to the actual one I want?
Sorry, no. The mechanism to push the pin to stop down the aperture is not there in any of the K mount cameras. It was a sort of plate that pressed the pin, and would be in the light path of the wider K mount.
04-12-2009, 01:26 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by philbaum Quote
One of the cool things is that Shake Reduction will work with the old lenses as well. If the SR switch is set to ON, and your switch power on with a already installed legacy lens, the LCD window will ask you to enter the nearest FL from a long list of FL. Once that is done, you're set. In fact you can even enter a FL that includes any TC you many have installed.

I like to do night scenes and the Manual mode works really well for that. Once i set the aperture i want, tapping the green button does the metering and suggests an initial shutter time value. Then i adjust from there.

Another neat thing about the legacy lenses is that they have a aperture ring. One can buy a set of extension tubes for about $10 and you can place them between any manual lens and the camera body. This allows close focusing without the expense of a macro. These extension tubes of course have the necessary bayonet connections. With the aperture ring, you can still do manual aperture adjustment without any electrical contacts on the extension tubes. All for small change.

Enjoy!!!!
Not new to photagraphy or the forum but the abrieviations.

What is TC?

What is PC?

What is IHMO?

I may have more questions in the future.

I have already either figured out what most of them mean or had to ask.
04-12-2009, 05:31 PM   #27
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TC - teleconverter.

PC - depending on context, either personal computer (usually meaning IBM/Windowstype, as opposed to Macintosh), or Prontor-Compur (the standard method of attaching external flashes to a camera)

IMHO: In my humble (or honest) opinion
04-12-2009, 07:46 PM   #28
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A few others that have been used in this thread:

CA - Chromatic Abberation

PF - Purple Fringing

FL - Focal Length

SR - Shake Reduction
04-12-2009, 08:35 PM   #29
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Here are a few shots from older lenses

Super Takumar 35 mm F3.5, approximately 40 years old



Super Takumar 55 mm F1.8, same age as above..



Super Takumar 28 mm F3.5, in the 40 year old range also...

04-12-2009, 11:22 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
TC - teleconverter.

PC - depending on context, either personal computer (usually meaning IBM/Windowstype, as opposed to Macintosh), or Prontor-Compur (the standard method of attaching external flashes to a camera)

IMHO: In my humble (or honest) opinion
Thanks Marc.

Part of me feels dumb. I should have picked up on TC, I knew what FL was instantly.

I had no idea however what IMHO ment.
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