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06-19-2009, 01:26 PM   #16
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When you happen to get the exposure just right, write up your settings - shutter speed, aperture and ISO along with the description of the weather conditions. In the future, if the conditions are similar, just pop to manual mode and dial in your favorite sunset numbers.

06-22-2009, 11:33 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Langille Quote
Many of those are without a CPL filter.
Marc, is a CPL filter essential for sunrise photography and if so how are you utilizing it?
06-23-2009, 03:54 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just1MoreDave Quote
Marc Langille actually said "spot meter just to the side of the rising sun, AE lock it and re-frame the shot and fire the shutter."

Caution is important when looking at the sun through the viewfinder. I try not to explore the absolute limits. The sun's path is predictable, so framing can often be done in advance. Sometimes you can meter from an extremely bright cloud without including the sun in the viewfinder. Exposure bracketing can fill in for times when metering is difficult. That's what I did here, with the camera on a tripod:

I will often take a pile of sunset shots in RAW, get them back to the computer, adjust white balance, tint, exposure and everything else, and not be very happy with any of it. I guess I need a Nikon and the magic setting numbers.
Good suggestions and that an important cautionary note you make!

To clarify: I agree and wouldn't recommend looking at the sun for any length of time, even through the viewfinder. Your eye's safety is the most important thing. The context was that you are simply taking a photo, not doing this for more than a few shots. Looking at the sun (even low in the horizon) is normally too bright for your eyes for more than a few seconds - unless a CPL is on the lens. This will help cut down on the eye strain due to the potentially very high levels of light otherwise coming in the viewfinder.

QuoteOriginally posted by keruili Quote
Marc, is a CPL filter essential for sunrise photography and if so how are you utilizing it?
Sometimes it's essential (see below) - the exception is when it's heavily blanketed with fog, clouds, etc. or very low in the horizon and possibly not that bright.

I keep my CPL filter on the DA 12-24 all the time, simply because it's used often enough to do this and keep it practical. Having a CPL certainly makes it much easier, especially with a lake + reflections in the mix. A CPL will reduce the incoming light by 2 stops, so it has the added advantage of allowing more time in the viewfinder if needed, since the light source not as bright (which ties into my clarification statement above). If I don't have a CPL on say a telephoto lens (for whatever reason), then I'll quickly setup and underexpose as previously stated once a basic metering is done.

If you have the inclination, a neutral density filter can sometimes work wonders but it takes practice to reap the best results. I've seen ghosting issues before with ND filters I've used, so that's sort of inconclusive as to who/what is the cause there.

These are just suggestions, not an absolute. They work best for me a great deal of the time for simplicity and convenience's sake. I'll try to dig up an example of when a CPL is quite useful for sunrise photography (ie lake water reflections). I should have an example somewhere in my files.

Regards,
Marc

Last edited by Marc Langille; 06-23-2009 at 04:00 AM.
06-23-2009, 12:48 PM   #19
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Just have to say, this is a perfect spot to use the green button. Point the camera to the side of the sun, when in manual mode, and hit the green button. The camera will take exposures from that point at the level you want. The other thing is to try to be sure to use a lens hood -- it is often really tough to avoid significant flare shooting into the sun.

If you want to use RAW, adobe has some pretty good tools for "toning up" your sunset photos. Tweaking the temperature slider as well as the vibrance sliders can have some amazing results.

06-26-2009, 05:29 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
If you want to use RAW, adobe has some pretty good tools for "toning up" your sunset photos. Tweaking the temperature slider as well as the vibrance sliders can have some amazing results.
I was going to say something similar - shoot in RAW (as everyone should imo) and tweak the temperature in PP?
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