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07-01-2009, 03:21 PM   #1
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Here's a dumb one...

Just reading a few excerpts from "The Hot Shoe Diaries" on Amazon and the author is talking about "Matrix metering"...says he stays in that mode most of the time, as opposed to spot and center weighted metering.

In Pentax land, would our multi-segmented metering be the equivalent to the matrix metering he's speaking of? (I think he's a nikonian) My guess is yes, but I'm asking anyway to be sure.

07-01-2009, 03:51 PM   #2
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I think here it's called "pattern"
07-01-2009, 04:12 PM   #3
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pattern, multi-segment, matrix - all different terms for the same basic idea.
07-01-2009, 04:13 PM   #4
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As Marc said

07-01-2009, 04:47 PM   #5
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cool - thanks
07-01-2009, 05:16 PM   #6
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But your camera has different settings for different situations for a reason!

I always take my rugby photos on centre-weighted mode. I noticed a whole lot were over-exposed last weekend, then noticed the camera had slipped into matrix metering (Iwould prefer a lock on that rather than the K-7's one). So for that sitaution centre is definitely best.

Muck around with them, try spot metereing etc.
07-02-2009, 01:27 PM   #7
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Arpe - wow, that would be annoying, having the camera wind up in a different metering mode like that - wonder why they did that with the k7

Thanks for the advice - I will have to play around with it. I have mine in multi-segment most of the time - haven't messed around much with the others - although I read that spot metering is good for concerts and theater and other such moody lighting. Will be interesting to experiment.
07-02-2009, 08:56 PM   #8
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I like center-weighted. With matrix metering, you can't really set EV compensation reliably without chimping, because you have no idea what the camera's own algorithm is going to guess the baseline should be.

In fact, if the camera had an entire-frame-average mode (like the simple needle meter on the K1000), I'd probably use that most of the time.

07-02-2009, 09:08 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Arpe Quote
I always take my rugby photos on centre-weighted mode. I noticed a whole lot were over-exposed last weekend, then noticed the camera had slipped into matrix metering
thanks for the brain-jog. I was taking pics of my sons footy (AFL) last weekend and ended up with some over-exposed frames. I've only ever used 'pattern' metering (with ev comp if needed) which until now has worked fine. Will try your suggestion next time!

Nige.
07-03-2009, 01:34 AM   #10
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It also depends on how dark the players' uniforms are! With my Sigma 70-200 I also always dial in -0.5 EV.
07-03-2009, 04:29 AM   #11
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My knowledge and experience pales in comparison to the others, but I have always used a variety of metering modes with my camers to suit the conditions and desired results.

For instance, I do alot of "product shots" of dark shiny items on a plain withe background. To "trick" the camera into NOT trying to gray down the white background, and not blowing out the black shiny stuff, I stick a digital gray card up next to the front of the product, set the metering to spot, press the shutter half way, hit the AE lock, the reframe and shoot away.

I've also used center weighted for portraits. When I'm usure exactly where they exposure compensation needs to be, I bracket.

This might not be the way the pros do it, but I've gotten some good results. Anyhow, I'm always looks for new techniques and tricks too!
07-03-2009, 09:35 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by HGMonaro Quote
thanks for the brain-jog. I was taking pics of my sons footy (AFL) last weekend and ended up with some over-exposed frames. I've only ever used 'pattern' metering (with ev comp if needed) which until now has worked fine. Will try your suggestion next time!
Well, it's not like center-weighed metering automatically creates darker pictures. Actually, in "most" situations, I find it creates *brighter* pictures - small highlights are less likely to cause the camera to underexpose in order to protect them. In general, the specifics of when you get pictures darker or lighter than you'd prefer ar going to depend on the scene itself as much as the mode you use. Really, instead of changing modes hoping for one that magically creates the exposure you want, it's better to learn how to meter effectively yourself. And by that, I don't mean buy an external meter, or just guess at the exposure - I mean, learn what type of scenes are likely to by metered too bright or too dark, so you will know when to apply exposure compensation. Or learn to meter off a neutral subject and use that exposure instead of the one suggested by the scene you are shooting.
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