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07-08-2009, 03:17 AM   #1
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istdL pale pictures

I have had a istDL for several years. Last weekend I took several phictures whilst out on our boat. In the display they appear perfect However on downloading them onth our computer that appear very pale.
I checked that all the setting were on Auto and took more photos today of a parade of vehicles going past where I work.
Again all look great on the camera - pale & washed out on the computer.

I really need this sorted out by the weekend (2days) as I am attending a motor race & want to take lots of pics.

Can any one help me please?:

07-08-2009, 04:32 AM   #2
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You need to post some examples and the EXIF data for the shots. it could simply be the settings on your monitor or a number of other issues.
07-08-2009, 04:45 AM   #3
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That was my first post and as soon as I figure out how to post the examples & the EXIF data (what ever that is) I will do as you sugested.I have been searching for a couple of hours to no avail. This is also the first time I have ever been on a forum.
07-08-2009, 05:32 AM   #4
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Sorry, Welcome to the forums. When you are posting pictures here, just click on the "quick Reply" button and then click in the "Go Advanced" button under the dialog box. Scroll down and you will see a button "manage attachments". Click on that and you can then browse and load images from your computer.

They will need to be resized for the site and need to be Jpegs. A decent size is 1024 x1024 or so.

EXIF data is the information embedded in the picture file. If you use the Pentax Software that came with the camera, it's listed as "Image Data" in the menus. If you don't edit the photo other than to resize it and use that software, the information should remain intact and we can see it here. If not, just record it and post it along with the photos. Include the lens used and it's speed. IE DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6

Hope that helps.

07-08-2009, 08:43 AM   #5
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Meanwhile, I'll make a wild guess: the sun was bright, and you weren't using a hood, so lens flare reduced the contrast. It looked OK on the the LCD becuase it's tiny.
07-08-2009, 01:44 PM   #6
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Unfortunately your guess was wrong - the hood was on. But thanks for the guess
07-08-2009, 01:47 PM   #7
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We deleted the old photos after downloading them, but will take some new photos today. Unfortunately I don't recall getting any software with the camera but will ask my husband. Currently downloading the latest software from Pentax so will check things out when I get home from work.

Last edited by gasket; 07-08-2009 at 02:17 PM.
07-08-2009, 04:02 PM   #8
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Even if you don't have the Pentax software, you can see the basic EXIF data with Windows. Just transfer the card to a file on you computer. Open the file and you'll see the photo files there. Click on any one of them (don't open it) and on the bottom of the folder you will see the f stop, ISO, shutter speed etc for that image.

07-08-2009, 04:10 PM   #9
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Are you shooting RAW (PEF files) or JPEG? How are you viewing the files on your computer? The LCD will display the internal JPEG if you are shooting RAW. Some RAW viewers on computers will not use the internal JPEG and display the RAW photo which compared to the JPEG is pale or washed out.
07-09-2009, 01:05 AM   #10
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I hope that I have done this right. Picture on the bottom and here is the data. ALl the data is here and please let me know it the picture is too big. This is the first time that I have done anything like this. I appreciate any comments to help me reduce this washed out effect. Thank you for you help.

Make - PENTAX Corporation
Model - PENTAX *ist DL
Orientation - Top left
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
Software - *ist DL Ver 1.00
DateTime - 2009:07:05 09:18:07
YCbCrPositioning - Co-Sited
ExifOffset - 602
ExposureTime - 1/350 seconds
FNumber - 11.00
ExposureProgram - Landscape mode
ISOSpeedRatings - 200
ExifVersion - 0221
DateTimeOriginal - 2009:07:05 09:18:07
DateTimeDigitized - 2009:07:05 09:18:07
ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
MeteringMode - Multi-segment
Flash - Flash not fired, compulsory flash mode
FocalLength - 78 mm
FlashPixVersion - 0100
ColorSpace - sRGB
ExifImageWidth - 3008
ExifImageHeight - 2000
InteroperabilityOffset - 56338
SensingMethod - One-chip color area sensor
FileSource - Other
SceneType - Other
CustomRendered - Normal process
ExposureMode - Auto
White Balance - Auto
FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 117 mm
SceneCaptureType - Landscape
Contrast - Normal
Saturation - Normal
Sharpness - Normal
SubjectDistanceRange - Distant view

Maker Note (Vendor): -
Mode - Auto
Quality - Better
ISO - 200
White Balance - Auto
Lens Type - smc PENTAX-F 35-105mm F4-5.6 or Sigma or Tokina Lens

Thumbnail: -
Compression - 6 (JPG)
XResolution - 72
YResolution - 72
ResolutionUnit - Inch
JpegIFOffset - 56464
JpegIFByteCount - 3024
Attached Images
 
07-09-2009, 02:18 AM   #11
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The info is correct and tells us what we need but my first thought is wow. The metering is in multi segment so the camera is going to weigh the center a little heavier but also blance that against the rest of the frame for a correct exposure. From what you have here, it shot 4-5 stops too low.

This has me baffled. At f11 1/350th it might have been over exposed but I would have thought not that badly. I'm thinking something is defective. Either the lens is showing the camera f11 but shooting wide open or the camer metering system is bad. I suspect the lens.

Do you have another lens you can take some test shots with?

Second thing you should do is clean the electrical contacts on the lens mount of both the lens and camera. Some will suggest you use a pencil eraser. Don't !!** Use Lens cleaner solution and a clean lint free cloth or get contact cleaner from an electronics store. Rubbing alcohol will also work for this. I'm guessing that the contacts might be dirty and not transmitting the proper f stop info to the lens and thus it's not stopping down when you take the shot. Or the lens may be defective and telling the camera it's shooting at f11 or whatever but really staying wide open.

** Pencil erasers have pumice in them and are abrasive. They will clean the contacts but most of these contacts are gold plated to conduct low voltage data and the eraser will eventually strip the soft gold off the contact. leaving you with a broken camera.
07-09-2009, 02:37 AM   #12
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Peter thank you very much for this information. I will get some lens cleaner (I know I should have some) tomorrow and clean the lens. I have lens cleaner for my glasses & monitor cleaner but will get the camera lens cleaner to be sure I am using the correct product.
FYI lenses that I use: tele lens Sigma 70-210mm, standard that came with camera Sigma 18-50mm.

Will follow your instructions.
07-09-2009, 02:43 AM   #13
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Your eye glass cleaner will do fine. It's designed to cut dirt and grease but not leave residue or damage the glass. Use that. Also test the camera with one of the other 2 lenses and see if you are getting similar results.
07-09-2009, 07:58 AM   #14
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An aperture pf f/11 at 1/350 using an ISO of 200 is almost perfect for the "sunny 16" rule. So f16 at 1/200 is the same as f11 at 1/400...figure another stop is needed over sand, snow or water, and the pic should only be over-exposed by one stop. That looks like a fair bit more than one stop. I have no histogram software here at work, so someone else will have to confirm.
07-09-2009, 09:11 AM   #15
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Obviously way over-exposed. I'd run a test a shooting the same picture at each aperture (using Av mode) from wide open until it won't close down any more, and see if the exposures are consistent, if the shutter speeds track the aperture correctly, etc. Also take the lens off and play with the aperture ring and the blade that opens and closes the aperture to see if things seem to be working OK. My new guess is that the blades are sticking.

Regarding sunny 16: it says your shutter speed should be 1/ISO for f/16 on a bright sunny day for an ordinary subject in direct sun. That means 1/200 for f/16, or 1/400 for f/11. It's a pretty rare scene that actually comes out too bright with sunny 16 - sand and snow, mostly. Sky and water are actually not the sort of things that I'd expect to have to come out too bright, so I'd expect this picture at 1/350 to be only a *tiny* bit overexposed at those exposure settings, if any.
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