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02-01-2013, 12:18 PM   #16
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It sounds like ANKH is more concerned about the physical operation of the slider than how to find best focus.

That slider should move back and forth sideways. You may not feel actual clicks but it should move a bit either way. If it won't move, something is jammed. If it is in good focus for your eye, then it won't matter but if it is not in good focus and you can't adjust it, you might want to consider a repair or replacement of the eyepiece.

02-01-2013, 05:03 PM   #17
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The mechanism, at least on the film camera I took apart, is pretty complicated. If it is stuck in a working position, that's probably good enough. But if it has to be fixed, I'd pass on the camera. The fix might involve taking the top off the camera, with all the other little parts and screws and making sure the weather seal is not compromised when reassembling. There may not be a lot of K200Ds out there but it's worth it to keep looking.
02-01-2013, 05:08 PM   #18
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ANKH describes a problem i had when I disassembled an ist ds for repair. If the forks of the diopter adjusting bar are not exactly aligned with the mechanism during reassembly, the diopter adjustment no longer works, there are no clicks and the bar only moves part way.
If these cameras are disassembled other problems can be introduced, particularly weakening of the soldered wires between the mother board and top cover and I would be careful about buying a camera with that problem.
02-05-2013, 12:31 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
The easiest way is to focus on the markings that are on the focusing screen itself, with no lens attached. Everything else does not matter
Absolutely the best way. When you can clearly see the fresnel on the focusing screen in a "old fashion Eurovision logo" kinda way, then you have it. I don't count the clicks.

02-14-2013, 05:39 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by wombat2go Quote
ANKH describes a problem i had when I disassembled an ist ds for repair. If the forks of the diopter adjusting bar are not exactly aligned with the mechanism during reassembly, the diopter adjustment no longer works, there are no clicks and the bar only moves part way.
If these cameras are disassembled other problems can be introduced, particularly weakening of the soldered wires between the mother board and top cover and I would be careful about buying a camera with that problem.
Thanks all, I'd already sent back the one with the stuck diopter lever
Would-be-seller said when he bought the camera he'd set it and never touched it again.
And that he hadn't checked that part before mailing it
(the lever is well down inside a slot, within the top of the rubber eyecup).

The info y'all have posted above is more than I've found anywhere else about the
diopter lever, how it works, and how complicated to fix. I'm glad I wasn't optimistic about taking the chance.
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