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07-19-2009, 12:54 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by raymeedc Quote
... just a friendly exchange of opinions among fellow forum members.
Absolutely.

07-19-2009, 12:56 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
Just to get back to the question. I would start with the kit lens and shoot with that for a while.
I do agree with that too.
07-19-2009, 02:17 PM   #33
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Keeping in mind the original limitation of sub-$100, one of the original 18-55 kit lenses would be fine. By buying one of the original variety vs. the II model, you'd have some left over to save for the 50-200. Or, if you felt you needed a faster lens in addition to the 18-55, you could purchase a 50mm A immediately, and still stay within your budget.

Paul
07-19-2009, 02:30 PM   #34
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A fast 50mm may be a little longer than a "normal" lens when used with a Pentax DSLR, but it's certainly not unusable. My only lens was an A50/1.7 on my Boulevard Brewery tour:

Picasa Web Albums - riffraff - Boulevard Bre...

07-19-2009, 03:04 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
I personally find a 50 mm a little long for most things and short for the rest. I love the image quality, but find I leave it at home in favor of my other lenses.
I love my 50s & 55s. Because of the cropping factor, It affords many photographers, myself included, the opportunity to closely approximate (not the same DOF factor, of course) the experience of shooting with one of the rare, expensive Holy Grails of TaKumar's past, the 85mm 1.8 portrait lens.
07-19-2009, 07:32 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
Don't worry about being a "disagreement", BTW. I figure, we're here to make recommendations. And I agree with the recommendation that split focus screens and viewfinder magnifiers can help. I just don't want anyone to get the idea that manual lenses are useless without a split focus screen, and hence be scared off the purchase. Lots of people use these lenses quite successfully, and there is no reason for anyone considering one of these lenses to assume they couldn't do so as well.



It's come up many times before. And it always goes pretty much exactly like it is here - some who find the split focus screens or viewfinder magnifiers to be "must haves", some who don't see the big deal. I'd say almost everyone who has actually tried it agrees that split screens and magnifiers help. But I'd also say almost everyone who has actually spent time practicing with the stock screen would also agree that this helps, too.
I have both on two different bodies and everyone is correct sans the "Must Have"

My K10D is now packing a 45 split screen and the magnifyer.

My K100DS is all stock.

I use manual lenses on both bodies all of the time.

Both systems work great; you just gotta practice using them.
07-28-2009, 08:48 PM   #37
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I received my 50mm 1.7 from scambay and am digging it so far. I think I'm going to hold off on the kit lens for now and save up for a Tamy 17-50 or 28-75 2.8 later on. One question more though, it seems like brightly colored objects will bleed their color around the their edges when the aperture is wide open, producing an halo like effect. Is this an artifact of the lack of sharpness at the wide end or might there be a problem with the lens?
07-29-2009, 09:34 AM   #38
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You could try posting a picture, but yeah, that sounds like a good description of what it means to say a lens is soft wide open. It will be more noticeable in the slightly out of focus areas than in the perfectly in focus area or in the way out of focus areas, but the thing about an aperture like f/1.7 is that there is often a *lot* of the image that is slightly out of focus - DOF is very shallow.

I assume, BTW, you aren't using a filter - that could also exacerbate the effect you describe. As can shooting in bright light without use of a hood.

07-29-2009, 09:47 AM   #39
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Back in my film days, I use to always keep a prime in the 70mm on my camera. I had read an article back then questioning why everyone considered a 50 "normal". That that was akin to what you see. But this guy had quoted studies done back then and a 70 was actually more "normal".
In my opinion if you wanted a good first prime lens that 50 won't let you down.

Just seems odd nowdays that everyone seems to go for the zoom and primes get relegated to the back of the line. And that includes me as well.
Note to self: I need to start shooting my primes more.
07-30-2009, 08:52 PM   #40
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QuoteQuote:
but something cheap with good IQ that will help me learn about photography. I've been looking around here, and I'm leaning toward the KA mount 50mm f1.7. Does anyone have any opinions?

Looks like everyone has their favorite lenses. This forum offers a excellent lens review both Pentax and third party. Great place to start. Some people like landscapes and some like macros well other like shooting what ever looks good to them. [that's my way] Every example mentioned here is a great choice. All comes down to a flip of a coin. Good luck. JIM
08-01-2009, 08:58 PM   #41
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Fellow newbie

I just got my first DSLR, too. It's a K20d. I just decided to get the kit lens and a starting level range of older Takumar primes. If your budget is $100, you can get some pretty awesome lenses. Here's what I've managed so far from Ebay:

28mm super takumar 3.5 for $16
55mm auto takumar f1.8 for $20
135mm super takumar 3.5 for $38

add in the $40 I paid (with shipping) for the adapter, and you're not too far over $100 ($114)

by the way, if you want to do this and you need an adapter, read my k-mount adapter thread before you buy one!


It may be relevant to note that I'm not in this to learn from scratch. I had plenty of experience with a 50mm prime on an old Pentax k1000 when I was an undergrad. I definitely recommend sticking with a normal (35mm for digital) prime at first. But why not go ahead and get a small range so you can feel it out a bit while you're learning. Why not go for two old, cheap takumars and a converter? I also think it's better to learn manual focus as opposed to auto focus!!!!!
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