Originally posted by Ron720 Hello everyone I'm new here.
K2000 things I don't link
Build quality no weather sealing or alloy body all plastic.
Thanks for any advice.
According to Pentax USA's website the K2000 (K-M) construction is:
Body dimensions (W x H x D) - 4.8 x 3.6 x 2.7”; Body weight, without battery or removable memory - 18.5 oz, Loaded and ready - 20.8 oz (lithium); Construction material(s) -
Fiber reinforced plastic polymer covers around a rugged stainless steel chassis; Operating temperature - 32-104 degrees F
So, its construction is similar to that of the K10D and K20D, a plastic skin over a stainless steel chassis. I have a K10D, and it feels like a tank in my hands.
The K7, on the other hand, has a magnesium allow body. No plastic skin.
As far as the 14 MP in the K20D being more than you need: perhaps you aren't planning on making wall-size prints, but the increased pixel count makes cropping easier. You can crop a small section and still end up with 6 or 8 MP. The same crop from the K110D that you mention would give you about 3 MP, which would make even an 8 x 10 a little iffy.
As for using AA batteries, some people love them. I have no real opinion, but I can say that the proprietary battery in my K10D has never been a problem for me. I have a spare that I keep charged and almost always carry with me. I routinely get 500-600 shots out of a single battery. I don't use the onboard flash very much, and I keep chimping to a minimum.
The only thing I don't like is that the battery charge indicator on the top LCD of the K10D is very inaccurate. It only has two positions: full charge and "Oh my god, where's my spare battery!?". When it shows half charge, its time to change. I've heard that the K20D is the same.
I've had Pentax cameras for years. I don't think you can go very far wrong with any of them.