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02-23-2011, 05:10 AM   #61
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My case, it just fits in K20.
It came with the screen, and two plastic rectangle cutout, but I m not using any of them.

You may need to clean the screen for dust/spot and blow dust of the prism in your camera. I spent lot of time to clean it, but still some dust particle on the center where it is diffucult to wipe.

I use plastic tools. The screen scratch easily. I have minor scratch in my screen at the corner, but it won't affect the view nor the focus.

The metal frame on the camera is a bit difficult to snap in when you replaced the screen, but don't use force, just touch the lock a bit and press gently in. The split screen it a bit thicker than the original one.

The screen does have less than half milimeter movement in long edge direction when I installed mine. I use it to center the screen perfectly - center red dot is at the center split.

Then I do a lot of test: several lenses, wide open, at minimum focus distance. I found mine has 1-2 milimeter misfocus, but can also be my user error. Handheld only. By 3 feet and longer it is not an issue.

Best regards.

02-23-2011, 07:43 AM   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by BeerBelly Quote
What did you have to do to achieve accurate focuse with it? I got one in the mail as well and would want to cut down my number of attempts before focus is correct
I guess we should make sure we are using the exact same screen and same camera. Mine came in a box marked :

"Travor" (on front)
"for Pentax K100D/K200D/K2000" (on back)
Also :
6000550 Celletch, Made in China

On my K-X body, I followed the instructions precisely except I had the tab facing right, which is opposite of the instructions.

It comes with instructions too, but they are vague. The website instructions are very good.

--------------

I happen to have my old double split focus screen for DS2/K10D/K20D, it did not fit into the K-X body. The K-X body can use K100D/K200D/K20​00D

--------------

I used it today in daylight, it was handy for focusing my 300mm manual focus lens. But with a X2 teleconverter it was too dark (aperture 11).

But overall I can't complain, because this screen replaces one that had no function whatsoever. It's very usable down to f/8
02-23-2011, 08:45 AM   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by spystyle Quote
"Travor" (on front)
"for Pentax K100D/K200D/K2000" (on back)
Also :
6000550 Celletch, Made in China

On my K-X body, I followed the instructions precisely except I had the tab facing right, which is opposite of the instructions.

It comes with instructions too, but they are vague. The website instructions are very good.
I have that same screen, got from eBay a few weeks ago.

1. The correct handed installation of a Pentax K-x/K-r screen is that the Tab must be on the right side when looking into the front cavity of the camera.

2. So I followed that and installed my Travor with the Tab on the right side in my K-x.

3. I since find that when I accurately Manual focus with it, that result does not exactly correspond with what the AF of the K-x will choose.

ie. If I now manual focus with any lens, then touch the AF button (or half-press the Shutter), the camera will motor-adjust focus which then puts the split-prism off slightly.

So before I change anything, can you please confirm if that model screen is installed with its Tab on the left (looking inside the front K-mount), that both AF and~or MF will then both correspond and give the exact same focus result-position of the lens?

.R.

Last edited by Hypocorism; 02-23-2011 at 11:42 AM.
02-23-2011, 09:39 AM   #64
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Well, I followed the instructions exactly, that shows the tab on left (and the camera is upside-down)



But I did mine opposite, tab on right.

--------------

The shim effects focus as well :



The instructions show the shim being installed before the screen, I did that too.

But I previously tried placing the shim opposite to see if it would change the focus.

-------

I do portraiture at smaller aperture, for example 10 feet at f/4. So for me it's accurate.

I'm sure if you try to do f/1.4 at 4 feet it's tricky.

---------

There may also be variation in sample, you can try these combinations :

tab on the left shim on bottom
tab on left shim on top
tab on left no shim
tab on right shim on bottom
tab on right shim on top
tab on right no shim


I did all those combinations and decided for me, tab on right and shim on bottom was best

Let me know your results


Last edited by spystyle; 02-23-2011 at 09:53 AM.
02-23-2011, 09:59 AM   #65
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Any special reason to reverse the tab? I think you must have put it in upside down to do that.
02-23-2011, 10:17 AM   #66
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I just did a test

Using 18-55mm Pentax lens

18mm f/3.5 @ min focus distance, focus was correct with focus screen.

55mm f/5.6 @ a few feet, focus was correct with focus screen.

-------

I also have a 50mm f/1.4 Sears manual focus lens, I tried it at 1.4 and it was tricky. But the focus screen basically concurred with the green focus light. It seems accurate enough.
02-23-2011, 10:18 AM   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by cats_five Quote
Any special reason to reverse the tab? I think you must have put it in upside down to do that.
I put it that way because the focus seemed most accurate like that. But I'm not an expert.

Is it bad to put it upside-down ?

member "Hypocorism" put his in "not upside-down" and he claims his focus is inaccurate.
02-23-2011, 10:42 AM   #68
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I had a similar experience with the "Travor" screen (k-x), the tab needed to be reversed compared to the original part, screen on top of shim (as with original) for focus to be about right when images lined up in the center. I suppose the screen being this or that way simply affects distances and angles a bit; it has to right / as designed for a sharp image to appear to the eye through the viewfinder to correspond to a sharp image at the sensor plane when the mirror is raised. [edit: screen on top = shim between camera and screen]

02-23-2011, 11:02 AM   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by spystyle Quote

I did all those combinations and decided for me, tab on right and shim on bottom was best

Let me know your results
Thanks anyway but that's not what I was seeking for mine, like I said I want it to behave so that results are MF = AF exactly, all the time, and with any and every AF lens.

Only then will I know that the new screen is matched to, and working properly with the camera. It's AF is correct so that's my only and logical benchmark.

And Ps: Yes you're right, it doesn't work "the Pentax fitted way" and I really don't care which way the screen or the shim works out to be best position. So I'll have to measure things up and see where or what the problem is. And if it still doesn't work out to give exact same as AF results, unconditional, no big loss and a lesson learnt. It goes in the bin with all the other wannabes and promise-the-worlds.

.R.

Last edited by Hypocorism; 02-23-2011 at 11:36 AM.
02-23-2011, 11:04 AM   #70
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Just to make sure I wasn't starting a rumor, I just now tried it "not upside-down" and the focus was inaccurate.

Mine is only accurate "upside-down", otherwise I followed the instructions exactly.

Hypocorism : try flipping your focus screen "upside-down", I bet it will solve your problem
02-23-2011, 12:06 PM   #71
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QuoteOriginally posted by spystyle Quote
Just to make sure I wasn't starting a rumor, I just now tried it "not upside-down" and the focus was inaccurate.

Mine is only accurate "upside-down", otherwise I followed the instructions exactly.

Hypocorism : try flipping your focus screen "upside-down", I bet it will solve your problem
Will do, if it actually fits upside down I honestly didn't imagine that it might, and was expecting reversing it[] might have solved the problem in some weird way for you.

Meaning putting the Tab to the opposite side, still at top though. Or conversely, spinning it back to front laterally 180, reversible facing (same as).

I didn't put mine that way because I had just assumed that these Fresnels were designed to have a distinct front and back surface, ie. non reversible. Thus the offset tab[s] on camera FSs for assembly guidance indication -- which way they must 'face'.
Anyone know for sure?

Fwiw: Wikipedia seems to indicate so too Fresnel lens - encyclopedia article about Fresnel lens.

If you don't have really good eyesight, or a mag glass handy, try running a soft sable-hair brush over a genuine Pentax K-x FS and you'll soon see, by "feel", which face (side) of the lens (aka screen) has the fine cut grooves.

.R.

Last edited by Hypocorism; 02-23-2011 at 12:25 PM.
02-23-2011, 12:14 PM   #72
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Keep changing it until you have very accurate focus

There is nothing to fear but a little dust!

Last edited by spystyle; 02-23-2011 at 05:24 PM.
02-23-2011, 06:22 PM   #73
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Maybe this has already been asked...but, it seems the Katz Eye is correct with the existing shim and there is no flip to get correct focus.

Has anyone out there had experience with the ebay knock offs and an original Katz Eye? If so, would you be willing to share your knowledge?

It is worth it to me to pay the extra 90 bucks or so to have an accurate focus the first time with less blackout (if their claim is true).
02-23-2011, 07:35 PM   #74
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QuoteOriginally posted by jstick Quote
Maybe this has already been asked...but, it seems the Katz Eye is correct with the existing shim and there is no flip to get correct focus.

Has anyone out there had experience with the ebay knock offs and an original Katz Eye? If so, would you be willing to share your knowledge?

It is worth it to me to pay the extra 90 bucks or so to have an accurate focus the first time with less blackout (if their claim is true).
If paying 90 bucks more makes you more confident, then go for it. IMHO there is no difference. I didn't find black-out in my jinfinance screen.
02-23-2011, 08:50 PM   #75
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QuoteOriginally posted by jstick Quote
Maybe this has already been asked...but, it seems the Katz Eye is correct with the existing shim and there is no flip to get correct focus.

Has anyone out there had experience with the ebay knock offs and an original Katz Eye? If so, would you be willing to share your knowledge?

It is worth it to me to pay the extra 90 bucks or so to have an accurate focus the first time with less blackout (if their claim is true).
Further to what metalmania has advised I suggest that you read through all prior posts in this topic discussion, from page one, and if supplementary info is still felt needed use the forum Search feature (on the Menu above), because there are a few other good F.S specific or related topics here too.

You're right, what you ask has all been very well covered and there's been much valuable info posted from experienced owner~users of all types and brand screens available on the market, fitted to most or all Pentax DSLR models ever made.

I actually learnt a lot from that myself and would highly recommend taking the time to peruse through it all.
Trying to regurgitate it again here could not hope to cover all the essential good bits.

.R.
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