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12-13-2009, 10:17 AM   #31
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There are a number of Pentax A 50:1.7 lenses listed on ebay now for under $100. You might also keep your eyes open for a Pentax F 50:1.7 (autofocus) which you might find for $150 (there's an ebay buy-it-now for $225).... I have one and like it a lot....it is quite good wide open

Dave

12-13-2009, 12:56 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
I don't know that there are buttons to all the various things the Green button does, but relelavant to this thread, the "+/-" button is the one that lets you meter a manual lens - by momentarily stopping down and setting an appropriate shutter speed for you in M mode.
Ok, whew, thanks Marc...I was getting a little worried there.
12-19-2009, 11:50 AM   #33
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There's a shop not too far from me that has a "screwmount" 50mm 1.4 that I'll be checking out on Monday.
Questions:
1) What should I be looking for with a used lense to make sure I'm not getting a lemon?
2) If it's screwmount that could ONLY be this one Pentax Lens Review and Specification Database - 50mm F1.4 , right?
3) And I see there were differences between the Super Taks and the SMC Taks?

4) Where would I look for the adapter to MOUNT this baby on my K2000?
12-19-2009, 05:11 PM   #34
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Here is a link to the Pentax web store, this is the adapter you want to get, genuine Pentax. PentaxWebstore Mount Adapter K(35m m Screwmount to Bayonet) I do not think you can go wrong with any version of the Tak 50s, but i have heard that the SMC versions are a tiny bit better. I have the Super Tak 55mm F1.8, and love it. I also have SMC-M 50 1.4 in K mount, and it ain't bad either

Here is a photo I took of my great niece with the SMC-M 50 1.4



12-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #35
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Thanks.
Curiously, how does that adaptor ...go on..exactly? Do you just turn it in, like a lens and then screw on your screwable lens?
12-19-2009, 05:17 PM   #36
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Great shot, btw. She's a cutie!
12-19-2009, 05:31 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by Winnie Quote
Thanks.
Curiously, how does that adaptor ...go on..exactly? Do you just turn it in, like a lens and then screw on your screwable lens?
Yep, it has a red marking on it to match up with the camera, you just turn it till it stops, then mount the lens, easy as pie !!

Note that on all of my Taks, the lens will be a bit off center after you screw it snug. That's normal.
12-19-2009, 08:14 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by Winnie Quote
There's a shop not too far from me that has a "screwmount" 50mm 1.4 that I'll be checking out on Monday.
Questions:
1) What should I be looking for with a used lense to make sure I'm not getting a lemon?
2) If it's screwmount that could ONLY be this one Pentax Lens Review and Specification Database - 50mm F1.4 , right?
3) And I see there were differences between the Super Taks and the SMC Taks?

4) Where would I look for the adapter to MOUNT this baby on my K2000?
The focus ring should turn with even effort through its range, with no noises, looseness, wobble, etc. Screw-mount Takumars rarely have problems with their focus.

There's a switch on the side, between the screw mount and the aperture ring. With the switch in MAN, moving the aperture ring changes the aperture directly. With the switch on AUTO, the aperture will be fully open at any setting on the aperture ring. Press the spring-loaded chrome pin on the mount and the aperture should stop down to the aperture ring's selected setting. Set the lens to a small aperture like f16, and the aperture should open and close rapidly without hesitation. (As long as it moves, the lens is usable on a DSLR, but slow movement means a potential repair issue and decreased value.) The aperture blades should look dry and clean.

Newer versions of this lens have a "feature" that locks the AUTO/MAN switch in AUTO. A tiny extra pin on the mount must be pressed in to move the switch back to MAN. It won't matter in use.

The glass shouldn't have any scratches. Some internal dust is OK. Anything that looks like haze, cloudiness, spiderwebs, blotches or rainbow colors (like gasoline film on a puddle) is bad and you should avoid the lens, unless it is free.

Super-Takumars will have a yellow reflection off their front coating. Super-Multi-Coated or SMC Takumars will have a multi-colored reflection similar to a modern lens. Some of these lenses will also have a yellow tint to their internal elements. You can see this by opening the aperture and putting the lens on a white piece of paper. Look through the other end. The paper shouldn't be tinted yellow. If it is tinted, it can be cured by exposure to UV light.

There are two or three optical formulas, three different body styles and about three different lens coatings. There's not much practical difference between the various formulas. The main difference is between two groups: Super-Takumars and Super-Multi-Coated or SMC Takumars. Other differences matter more to collectors or users of screw-mount cameras.

An LED flashlight might be handy for inspection. If you have an adapter you can check for focus at infinity, or the shop may have a screwmount camera for that.

12-20-2009, 06:48 AM   #39
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Thanks Dave, that's a great help!

And just curious Stratman, but what does this mean exactly? And will this really effect me?

QuoteOriginally posted by Stratman Quote
Note that on all of my Taks, the lens will be a bit off center after you screw it snug. That's normal.
12-20-2009, 07:15 AM   #40
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No, it won't make a difference, you'll just think that the lens should turn JUST a little more. But do not worry, it is just fine. Here is my K10D with my Super Tak 55 1.8 attached. Notice how the little red diamond for the distance scale is not centered? This is what I am talking about. On a Spotmatic, that diamond would be dead center on the camera, not off to the side like it is in this photo.


Last edited by Stratman; 12-20-2009 at 07:21 AM.
12-20-2009, 07:30 AM   #41
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I see, I see. Thanks for the picture too.
12-20-2009, 07:34 AM   #42
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No problem Winnie!! Good luck on your lens hunt, it's fun eh? hehe
12-20-2009, 08:51 AM   #43
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It's true. I love the internet for researching this stuff.
I'll feel better about it after I get my first good deal of my first decent lens, and am able to figure it out manually.

With the meter, of course, I'm fully capable in manual everything mode.
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