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01-01-2010, 04:45 AM   #1
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24yr old used to use Chinon CE-5 and Minolta Maxxum HTsi Plus film bodies with Reala

OK, so I'm 24, I haven't taken any photos in a few years, last time I was 18.. so 6 years ago... here are those photos...

Photography pictures by 1D4y4a0d - Photobucket

The Yellowstone shots where taken with a 1981 Sears boughten Chinon CE-5 with a 35-70mm chinar lens, and Fujifilm SuperHQ 400, I had driven as a passenger 14 hrs and realized I didn't have one roll of film with me, so we stopped at the first gas station I could find and they only have SuperHQ so I bought it instead of the other films... if only I had the 2 rolls of reala I thought I had left hehe.... I usually take 2-3 exposures per scene, manual exp compensation you know, it's an older camera so I couldn't trust the meter. In fact the meter is what eventually went out on it which is why I trashed it, plus the leather wrap on the outside peeled off.

The Mt. Rainier shots are taken from my property, our view of Mt. Rainier from Olympia, WA, taken with a Minolta Maxxum HTsi plus with a 70-300mm Quantaray for Minolta micro capable lens on a tripod. I stood on top of my sisters old Honda CVCC from 1960s that is a junk car and it had a divot in the roof and filled with water, I slipped on some ice that formed in the middle and fell on my butt on the top of this car and stood back up and took the shot hehe... I was 18 like I said so this was all fun and quite enjoyable experience.

Just about every shot was taken with the Minolta except for the Yellowstone shots... the bird was Minolta and the rest were Minolta.

So I decided on this setup...

K20D Used, 700.00

SMC Pentax-F 28mm F2.8 200.00

SMC Pentax-M 200mm F4 100.00

SMC Pentax-FA 100-300mm F4.7-5.8 100.00

I will be ordering these in less than two weeks... are my choices exemplary for a poor bastada hahaha.

I think I will succeed in obtaining choice images since the whole time without a camera I have never stopped imaging, how I would take a photo of everything I looked at... so I hope it's still with me...


Any advice, bad choices? Tiips? K-x? or is K20d for extra 100$ smart decision?

01-01-2010, 12:56 PM   #2
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Hey all... first post here!

So I am deciding on a setup, it's been awhile since I have taken any photos... 6 years, I'm 24.

K20D 700.00 (used)

SMC Pentax-F 28mm F2.8 200.00

SMC Pentax-M 200mm F4 100.00

SMC Pentax-FA 100-300mm F4.7-5.8 100.00

The 28 will be for Architecture, Candid Street, Portrait

The 200 will be for Landscape Mainly but also, Portrait

The Zoom will be my sole wildlife and bird lens, I know it won't focus as fast as DA series or more expensive Tamron or Sigma. But I take my shots with a Quantaray 70-300mm and they came out good and that lens was soooo loud when it focused and so slow and would fish and not lock on focus. So I think I can deal with this FA quite satisfactorily.

This is a photo I took with the Quantaray for Minolta Maxxum HTsi plus with Kodak Max Gold.

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q348/1D4y4a0d/Michael/Photography/Red_bre...by_Lascivu.jpg

Here are the rest, all taken with that Minolta and FujiFilm SuperHQ 200 except the shots from Yellowstone, they were taken with Chinon CE-5 and 35-70mm Chinar K-mount lens with Fujifilm SuperHQ 200.

Photography pictures by 1D4y4a0d - Photobucket

I would like you guys and gals to steer me away from bad decisions and praise any good choices I made, letting me know how you feel these will perform for me. Someone told me not to buy the K2000 BRAND new for $385.00 because I could be a vastly improved sensor and frame rate by buying a new K-x, well I got wind of the K20D and it's weather seals and what not and 14 MP CMOS sensor instead of the CCD most companies were using 6 years ago and I watched a review on utube of it the K20D and I was very impressed with Pentax.

I have NEVER been a Pentaxing, just a K-mountian ahaha, I've always heard K-mount lens were good and I have never had any accept the Chinar lens for the Chinon which you all know of course was K-mount and marketed through Sears. I found out on Wikipedia that Chinon was a French town highly sought after during the 100years war, interesting huh.
01-01-2010, 01:07 PM   #3
Ole
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Welcome to the forum.

If you do not have the 200mm lens yet it might be worth while to shop for the A version which supports all exposure modes. With the M version you are restricted to using M exposure mode.
01-01-2010, 01:36 PM   #4
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Welcome to the forum.
I'd also suggest going for an A lens ahead of an M one, for the ease of operation on the camera.
As for the FA 100-300, it may be cheap, but doesn't quite cut it for a decent telezoom. I'd suggest spending a little more and going with the DA 55-300. Certainly the best bang for your buck.

There's also quite a gap between 28mm and your telezoom; if you got the 55-300 it won't be so stark, but you may feel the deficiency at times you don't expect it.

In any case, enjoy your upcoming gear and look forward to seeing more of you on the forum.

01-01-2010, 03:31 PM   #5
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I'm terribly confused... I had a Chinar lens that is 35-70mm and I would manually focus it, check the shutter speed indicator to see if it needed a slower shutter speed or just open the aperture and then after setting the aperture ring after adjusting or leaving it alone, I would take the picture.

Are you folks telling me it works differently than that with an M series?

What the HECK do you mean when you say this...

"worth while to shop for the A version which supports all exposure modes. With the M version you are restricted to using M exposure mode."

I assume you must be referring to aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, and auto mode? I just figured that the M series would allow me to set the aperture ring and the camera would work out the shutter speed in aperture priority mode, you're saying this lens isn't compatible with aperture priority mode? Not a big deal as long as the camera has a meter that allows me to see if there is enough light getting through for proper exposure, I can just set the aperture with the front dial on the k20d according to the review.

If I can change the aperture on the lens and the shutter speed with the camera, why would that be a problem as far as ease of camera operation? To just... let the camera decide what shutter speed to use when in aperture priority mode was a nice thing in the past, but I preferred not to use it, I'd only use it SOME times, I like to be consciously aware of what settings I'm taking a picture with at all times.

And in shutter priority mode to allow the camera to change your dof I think is a horrible flaw, the dof is like the frame of the picture within the picture, to change it changes EVERYTHING, you could want something out of the dof that the camera chooses many times. So I prefer FULL manual.. even with the F series lens and the FA I will be using full manual all the time. I cant see why you wouldn't be full manual unless you are lazy, honestly, bird photography is not something you WOULDN'T want to do in full manual in my opinion, if you choose aperture priority mode and the shutter speed is adjustable, you might not capture it sharp enough or wings may move too fast, or a twitcher birdie haha. In shutter priority you might choose a shutter speed on accident that is 1 stop too fast that allows the camera to choose an aperture that shows greater dof and you would have to select the background in photoshop and blur it on purpose because you let the camera choose an aperture that allowed the frame to be too "busy".

I wanted to know if these lens were known to have defects as far as, HORRIBLE problems with sharpness, or CA, or anything else that would affect my IQ, not whether or not it's compatible with new age modes that are available that I hate to use anyways. I appreciate the help, but both were in regards to the same effect, meaning the A instead of M, and it's twice as much.

Not only that but the zoom, is 4 times as much... if it's not sharper, I don't want it. I need SHARPness to capture feathers and sparkles in the eyes, I need ACCURATE autofocus.
01-01-2010, 07:18 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by BookSaw Quote
I'm terribly confused... I had a Chinar lens that is 35-70mm and I would manually focus it, check the shutter speed indicator to see if it needed a slower shutter speed or just open the aperture and then after setting the aperture ring after adjusting or leaving it alone, I would take the picture.

Are you folks telling me it works differently than that with an M series?
not sure what camera you were using, but yeah, it's slightly different. A Pentax DSLR cannot read the aperture ring, so it can't give you any indication of whether you need a faster or slower shutter speed - at least, not unless you do a DOF preview to temporarily stop down the lens, so the meter can read the light that will actually come through when you shoot. It's actually not that big a deal, and given that "A" series lenses that don't require this are usually harder to find (except for 50mm) and ore expensive, I wouldn't let this throw you off your plan.

I'd just question one thing - why get a 200mm prime if you're also getting a 100-300? You mention landscapes and portraits, and perhaps you have prior experience to tell you that 300mm was a focal length you liked on film for these purposes and therefore 200mm will work well for you on APS-C digital. But hopefully you realize that most would consider 200mm *way* too long for either of those purposes on APS-C.

QuoteQuote:
I assume you must be referring to aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, and auto mode? I just figured that the M series would allow me to set the aperture ring and the camera would work out the shutter speed in aperture priority mode, you're saying this lens isn't compatible with aperture priority mode?
Correct. In addition to the DOF preview method I mentioned, there is also a button you can press that momentarily stops down and sets a shutter speed for you - a "manually assisted" Av mode, if you will. So like I said, not necessarily a deal breaker, but definitely as simple as you assumed.

QuoteQuote:
I wanted to know if these lens were known to have defects as far as, HORRIBLE problems with sharpness, or CA, or anything else that would affect my IQ
The F28 is well regarded. The M200 is so-so - aside from being a stop faster, I don't find it an improvement over my DA50-200. I'm not familiar with the 100-300, but do check the lens review section of this site.
01-01-2010, 09:40 PM   #7
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I like to comment on the 28mm. On a full frame camera, that is a nice wide angle for architecture; on an APS-c camera, it translates to a 42mm which is more like a standard lens. If you already have the 28mm, just use it and see if it limits you; if not, you might want to consider to get something wider for architecture.
01-01-2010, 09:43 PM   #8
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Seems to be a cross post with https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/85329-hey-all-first-post-here.html

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