Is it just me or most of us? [Stable Hands]

Damn Brit · 01-05-2010, 12:10 AM

Supporting the lens from underneath with your left hand keeping your elbows tucked in against your chest gives you the the most stable grip. It also helps counteract the natural twist that happens when you press the shutter button. Getting your legs and feet positioned correctly helps as well but you can figure that out for yourself, I'm not your bloody yoga teacher.

joodiespost · 01-05-2010, 12:17 AM

Gary, I just tried that posture with the elbow on my chest. I definitely feel more steady. I don't think my elbows were ever touching my chest before. Gracias ^^

Wheatfield · 01-05-2010, 06:36 AM

Originally posted by joodiespost

Gary, I just tried that posture with the elbow on my chest. I definitely feel more steady. I don't think my elbows were ever touching my chest before. Gracias ^^

Buy a decent tripod and use it. Shake reduction is not the same thing as shake elimination.

joodiespost · 01-05-2010, 09:52 AM

Originally posted by Wheatfield

Buy a decent tripod and use it. Shake reduction is not the same thing as shake elimination.

ya

I actually have a tripod, Its for those times when I don't have to or want to take the tripod with me.

heliphoto · 01-05-2010, 10:26 AM

Originally posted by joodiespost

i am so sorry

I actually did the imgwide command. I dont know of any other tag lines. Let me know so I can change it. so sorry

Gary do something!

Unfortunately, the imgwide command doesn't resize and reserve the images, it just tell the browser to scale them. Imageshack also doesn't scale your images (like say flickr or smugmug does), so you need to properly size them for web display before you upload them to imageshack (you could still upload full size ones for archival purposes - just don't embed those huge ones

). I'm surprised you haven't already exceeded imageshacks bandwidth limit for those images (or did they lift that - I haven't read their terms in a long time).

Wheatfield · 01-05-2010, 05:35 PM

Originally posted by joodiespost

ya

I actually have a tripod, Its for those times when I don't have to or want to take the tripod with me.

I've found that if I want sharp pictures, I need to use a tripod.
The APS-C format digital is not forgiving of camera shake, far less so than 35mm.
You might also want to experiment a bit to see what shutter speeds SR helps with, and at what point it no longer helps to have it turned on.

newarts · 01-05-2010, 06:17 PM

Grip the camera with your finger on the shutterbutton and your thumb under the camera; squeeze the shutter button by bringing your thumb and finger closer (ie.squeeeezzzzeee the shutter button - don't stab it!)

When squeeeezzzing the shutter button, you should supporting all of the increased pressure with your thumb, not the camera's mass.

Dave

**NaClH2O** · 01-05-2010, 07:12 PM

Originally posted by joodiespost

Im going to have to practice holding the camera still. It's always when I am conscience of the fact that this will be an important shot, I can't lol. On the contrary, an easy "no pressure" shots are done with relaxed precision ^^

Shooting a camera is a lot like shooting a gun. And while I agree with wheatfield about tripods there are a lot of time when they are not convenient or even allowed.
Both DB and newarts had really good advice, tho I can't quite visualize what newarts meant about thumb placement. With SR I can usually hand hold quite steady down to 1/40th but I have to be aware.
Like DB said, elbows in tight, left hand supporting camera from underneath lens, right hand positioned comfortably on the grip. Feet about shoulder width apart with your dominant leg slightly behind and weight on that leg. This helps to allieviate the forward/back sway a lot of us get. Take a breath and hold it so the in/out motion of your chest is stilled, and slowly apply steady pressure on the shutter. The actual moment of the shutter firing should be somewhat of a surprise. Stabbing at the sutter will almost always result is a slight axial twist on the camera. Like newarts said a slow steady pressure on the shutter is the thing. When you first practice this kind of technigue it seems to take forever to get your shot, but as you practice it will come quicker and quicker. Also do not be afraid to lean against poles, trees, fences, anything else that is firmly planted in the ground. You will be pleasantly surprised at how slow a shutter speed you can handle leaning against a firm light pole.

NaCl(hope that helps)H2O

joodiespost · 01-05-2010, 10:36 PM

okay Guys, I just read up on a post by LeDave saying that there is a new "silent" firmware update that fixes the SR issue. Was this the culprit all along??

jasonbx · 01-06-2010, 01:18 AM

Originally posted by newarts

Grip the camera with your finger on the shutterbutton and your thumb under the camera; squeeze the shutter button by bringing your thumb and finger closer (ie.squeeeezzzzeee the shutter button - don't stab it!)
Dave

Are you talking about compact P&S cameras?

heliphoto · 01-06-2010, 07:56 AM

Originally posted by joodiespost

okay Guys, I just read up on a post by LeDave saying that there is a new "silent" firmware update that fixes the SR issue. Was this the culprit all along??

No idea, but it sure can't hurt to work on these other techniques folks are talking about.

I found this video instructive, and use some of these techniques...

(BTW on the K-X, I bet someone with large hands could get their thumb under the camera

)...

jmc7104 · 01-06-2010, 07:41 PM

my PhotoMe says sr was not operating meaning the switch may have been in the on position but the photo was taken before sr was confirmed also f5.3,at 55mm is shooting wide open apature which is not a good position for the 18/55mm no sr wide open with camera shake = blurry photo. jim

Sunset Lady · 01-09-2010, 01:32 PM

I like your pic of the birds.

GoremanX · 01-09-2010, 02:08 PM

Originally posted by joodiespost

okay Guys, I just read up on a post by LeDave saying that there is a new "silent" firmware update that fixes the SR issue. Was this the culprit all along??

I was skeptical of this. I've been following along with the recent silent firmware update thing, and I figured most people were seeing an improvement because they wanted to see an improvement, not because it was actually there. It's hard to test such a thing objectively because test conditions are hard to reproduce.

However, I've changed my mind on the subject. Supposedly the K-7 firmware was silently updated a couple weeks ago too, and I just updated to it this week. It's important to point out here that I never thought there was anything wrong with my camera. I've taken thousands of pictures with it, and I never once questioned the SR performance. So I wasn't looking for any improvements.

But when I went out to take pictures yesterday, ALL MY SHOTS were definitely way sharper!!! It's like a revelation! Shots I was taking at 135mm with 1/10 shutter speed were coming out sharp! I couldn't believe it, it became a challenge to try and get the SR to fail. There is definitely a VAST improvement over the previous firmware version.

So if it's the same for the K-x, then the silent firmware update probably would fix a lot of your blurriness issues.

The "old" K-x firmware was 1.01.05, and the new one is 1.01.07. It still shows up as 1.01 on the web site, and there's no indication that anything has changed, but its MD5 sum is different from the one that was released in early December. You can see the current firmware version of your camera by using PhotoME to look at the EXIF info of a picture you take with it. There's a field called "DSP Firmware Version" under the "Manufacturer notes" section.

This picture was taken with my K-7 at 1/25 and 50mm, handheld in a snow storm with tons of wind while standing in 2 feet of snow and wearing 2 coats and thick gloves.

And this is a 100% crop:

joodiespost · 01-09-2010, 03:36 PM

Thats a steady shot at such a low shutter speed. I just got my new 55-300 lens and im having even more trouble with steadiness. I will have to practice more. Im gonna have to download the firmware after i get the steady shot thing down a little better to see the real improvement in the update.

The thing is, when i do these advised postures, my darn hands are still showing those minor minor sways. Is this the same for everyone? Like someone mentioned, sr and shake elimination are two different things.

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01-05-2010, 12:10 AM	#16
Damn Brit Guest	Supporting the lens from underneath with your left hand keeping your elbows tucked in against your chest gives you the the most stable grip. It also helps counteract the natural twist that happens when you press the shutter button. Getting your legs and feet positioned correctly helps as well but you can figure that out for yourself, I'm not your bloody yoga teacher.

01-05-2010, 12:17 AM	#17
joodiespost Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 336 Original Poster	Gary, I just tried that posture with the elbow on my chest. I definitely feel more steady. I don't think my elbows were ever touching my chest before. Gracias ^^

01-05-2010, 06:36 AM	#18
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,991	Originally posted by joodiespost Gary, I just tried that posture with the elbow on my chest. I definitely feel more steady. I don't think my elbows were ever touching my chest before. Gracias ^^ Buy a decent tripod and use it. Shake reduction is not the same thing as shake elimination.

01-05-2010, 09:52 AM	#19
joodiespost Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 336 Original Poster	Originally posted by Wheatfield Buy a decent tripod and use it. Shake reduction is not the same thing as shake elimination. ya I actually have a tripod, Its for those times when I don't have to or want to take the tripod with me.

01-05-2010, 10:26 AM	#20
heliphoto Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Region 5 Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,539	Originally posted by joodiespost i am so sorry I actually did the imgwide command. I dont know of any other tag lines. Let me know so I can change it. so sorry Gary do something! Unfortunately, the imgwide command doesn't resize and reserve the images, it just tell the browser to scale them. Imageshack also doesn't scale your images (like say flickr or smugmug does), so you need to properly size them for web display before you upload them to imageshack (you could still upload full size ones for archival purposes - just don't embed those huge ones ). I'm surprised you haven't already exceeded imageshacks bandwidth limit for those images (or did they lift that - I haven't read their terms in a long time).

01-05-2010, 05:35 PM	#21
Wheatfield Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: The wheatfields of Canada Posts: 15,991	Originally posted by joodiespost ya I actually have a tripod, Its for those times when I don't have to or want to take the tripod with me. I've found that if I want sharp pictures, I need to use a tripod. The APS-C format digital is not forgiving of camera shake, far less so than 35mm. You might also want to experiment a bit to see what shutter speeds SR helps with, and at what point it no longer helps to have it turned on.

01-05-2010, 06:17 PM	#22
newarts Inactive Account Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Ames, Iowa, USA Photos: Albums Posts: 2,965	Grip the camera with your finger on the shutterbutton and your thumb under the camera; squeeze the shutter button by bringing your thumb and finger closer (ie.squeeeezzzzeee the shutter button - don't stab it!) When squeeeezzzing the shutter button, you should supporting all of the increased pressure with your thumb, not the camera's mass. Dave

01-05-2010, 07:12 PM	#23
NaClH2O Site Supporter Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bronx NY Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 5,631	Originally posted by joodiespost Im going to have to practice holding the camera still. It's always when I am conscience of the fact that this will be an important shot, I can't lol. On the contrary, an easy "no pressure" shots are done with relaxed precision ^^ Shooting a camera is a lot like shooting a gun. And while I agree with wheatfield about tripods there are a lot of time when they are not convenient or even allowed. Both DB and newarts had really good advice, tho I can't quite visualize what newarts meant about thumb placement. With SR I can usually hand hold quite steady down to 1/40th but I have to be aware. Like DB said, elbows in tight, left hand supporting camera from underneath lens, right hand positioned comfortably on the grip. Feet about shoulder width apart with your dominant leg slightly behind and weight on that leg. This helps to allieviate the forward/back sway a lot of us get. Take a breath and hold it so the in/out motion of your chest is stilled, and slowly apply steady pressure on the shutter. The actual moment of the shutter firing should be somewhat of a surprise. Stabbing at the sutter will almost always result is a slight axial twist on the camera. Like newarts said a slow steady pressure on the shutter is the thing. When you first practice this kind of technigue it seems to take forever to get your shot, but as you practice it will come quicker and quicker. Also do not be afraid to lean against poles, trees, fences, anything else that is firmly planted in the ground. You will be pleasantly surprised at how slow a shutter speed you can handle leaning against a firm light pole. NaCl(hope that helps)H2O

01-05-2010, 10:36 PM	#24
joodiespost Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 336 Original Poster	okay Guys, I just read up on a post by LeDave saying that there is a new "silent" firmware update that fixes the SR issue. Was this the culprit all along??

01-06-2010, 01:18 AM	#25
jasonbx New Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Photos: Gallery Posts: 13	Originally posted by newarts Grip the camera with your finger on the shutterbutton and your thumb under the camera; squeeze the shutter button by bringing your thumb and finger closer (ie.squeeeezzzzeee the shutter button - don't stab it!) Dave Are you talking about compact P&S cameras?

01-06-2010, 07:56 AM	#26
heliphoto Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Region 5 Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,539	Originally posted by joodiespost okay Guys, I just read up on a post by LeDave saying that there is a new "silent" firmware update that fixes the SR issue. Was this the culprit all along?? No idea, but it sure can't hurt to work on these other techniques folks are talking about. I found this video instructive, and use some of these techniques... (BTW on the K-X, I bet someone with large hands could get their thumb under the camera )...

01-06-2010, 07:41 PM	#27
jmc7104 Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Rock Island, Illinois 61201 Photos: Gallery Posts: 436	my PhotoMe says sr was not operating meaning the switch may have been in the on position but the photo was taken before sr was confirmed also f5.3,at 55mm is shooting wide open apature which is not a good position for the 18/55mm no sr wide open with camera shake = blurry photo. jim

01-09-2010, 01:32 PM	#28
Sunset Lady New Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 15	I like your pic of the birds.

01-09-2010, 02:08 PM	#29
GoremanX Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Georgia, VT Photos: Albums Posts: 1,657	Originally posted by joodiespost okay Guys, I just read up on a post by LeDave saying that there is a new "silent" firmware update that fixes the SR issue. Was this the culprit all along?? I was skeptical of this. I've been following along with the recent silent firmware update thing, and I figured most people were seeing an improvement because they wanted to see an improvement, not because it was actually there. It's hard to test such a thing objectively because test conditions are hard to reproduce. However, I've changed my mind on the subject. Supposedly the K-7 firmware was silently updated a couple weeks ago too, and I just updated to it this week. It's important to point out here that I never thought there was anything wrong with my camera. I've taken thousands of pictures with it, and I never once questioned the SR performance. So I wasn't looking for any improvements. But when I went out to take pictures yesterday, ALL MY SHOTS were definitely way sharper!!! It's like a revelation! Shots I was taking at 135mm with 1/10 shutter speed were coming out sharp! I couldn't believe it, it became a challenge to try and get the SR to fail. There is definitely a VAST improvement over the previous firmware version. So if it's the same for the K-x, then the silent firmware update probably would fix a lot of your blurriness issues. The "old" K-x firmware was 1.01.05, and the new one is 1.01.07. It still shows up as 1.01 on the web site, and there's no indication that anything has changed, but its MD5 sum is different from the one that was released in early December. You can see the current firmware version of your camera by using PhotoME to look at the EXIF info of a picture you take with it. There's a field called "DSP Firmware Version" under the "Manufacturer notes" section. This picture was taken with my K-7 at 1/25 and 50mm, handheld in a snow storm with tons of wind while standing in 2 feet of snow and wearing 2 coats and thick gloves. And this is a 100% crop:

01-09-2010, 03:36 PM	#30
joodiespost Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 336 Original Poster	Thats a steady shot at such a low shutter speed. I just got my new 55-300 lens and im having even more trouble with steadiness. I will have to practice more. Im gonna have to download the firmware after i get the steady shot thing down a little better to see the real improvement in the update. The thing is, when i do these advised postures, my darn hands are still showing those minor minor sways. Is this the same for everyone? Like someone mentioned, sr and shake elimination are two different things.