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01-06-2010, 01:44 AM   #1
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Callibrate my K20D colors

if possible, can someone with a callibrated lcd help to look at this picture.



currently using Vibrant setting with Tamron 28-105 f4-f5.6 and the flash used is Sigma EF 530 DG ST bounced from a white surface. AWB was used. Handheld. Other then cropping, no other editing was done. Focus was on the chest.

using Adobe RGB Color Space.

Saturation 0
Hue 0
Contrast +4
Sharpness +3

How are the colors? Trying to get good settings for this lens so that can minimize Post Processing time. There is also a possibility the pics may be used in a school magazine.

01-06-2010, 04:04 AM   #2
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The colours look a bit flat for my taste, but this is good for post-processing
Is +4 the highest possible setting for contrast? It does not seem enough to me but I might be wrong.
Maybe this could help: LINK



I would suggest you getting a calibration tool like the 'Datacolor Spyder3 Pro' [USA: $140 UK: 98 | EU: 115]* or at least the 'Spyder3 Express' [USA: $83 | UK: 79 | EU: 78]* using the following settings:

- LCD Brightness: 100 cd/m (select LCD Monitor)
- Temperature: 6500K
- Gamma: 2.2
- Luminance Mode: Visual
- Black Luminance: /
- White Luminance: /

Options > Advanced Settings > Enable: Show RGB Sliders as an option in the Identify Color Controls screen




*Prices based on following sites:
amazon.com | idealo.co.uk | amazon.co.uk | skinflint.co.uk | idealo.de | amazon.de | geizhals.at
01-06-2010, 07:38 AM   #3
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Problem is, we don't have the toy to see what it really looks like so who the hell knows

Firstly, i'd avoid aRGB like the plague unless you have an aRGB printer.

I'd also avoid using expensive pro calibration tools, people will give me heaps for that but you need to control your lighting for it to work correctly. I just printed off a series of test images and worked backwards.
01-06-2010, 08:34 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Alfisti Quote
Problem is, we don't have the toy to see what it really looks like so who the hell knows

Firstly, i'd avoid aRGB like the plague unless you have an aRGB printer.

I'd also avoid using expensive pro calibration tools, people will give me heaps for that but you need to control your lighting for it to work correctly. I just printed off a series of test images and worked backwards.

That is exactly what I was thinking. Plus, was said toy sun faded etc . . .

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