Originally posted by seacapt Results have been mediocre.I've been using ISO800 and shutter speeds 120-180 with the lens openned up. Focus is demanding at these low fstops and I'm experimenting with the catch in focus function.
I'd be really surprised if you managed to get much usable out of catch-in-focus for sports. I'd be turning up ISO to 1600, stopping the lens down to f/2.8 or so, and trying to either prefocus on a spot where you expect action to be and fire when the action comes there, or else *follow* the action while making small adjustments as necessary to the focus (the manual equivalent of AF-C), shootin whenever you like along the way. If the shots are blurry from subject motion, turn shutter speed higher and deal with the underexposure in PP. Shoot RAW you'll have fewer problems with that than if you shoot JPEG. You'll need to apply NR, of course, and some RAW processing programs are better than others at that. if you don't like what your can do on its own, consider a dedicated NR program like neat image, noise ninja, noiseware, etc.
Quote: I see people with P/S digitals getting better exposures than I.
Better *exposures*, or better *pictures*? Most likely their in-camera JPEG processing is just applying heavy-handed curves to correct any exposure errors. While I might be in the minority on this, I find M mode is the best mode for shooting anything fast (and is now the only mode I use, since lighting is usually pretty constant. At most, you'd need to bump it up or down a notch for specific areas of the court/field. But I get more consistent results this way than letting the autoexposure system choose different exposures for each shot depending on the color of the player's uniforms, the color of the background walls, whether there is a reflection of the floor, or any of a bunch of other irrelevant details.
Anyhow, if they're shooting without flash, they will be dealing with far greater noise and blur issues than you. But focus won't be as tricky for them, since DOF is so much deeper on any P&S than on your A50/1.7 wide open.
Quote: As a second part of this question , I just got a couple of M42 fast primes that might be ideal for this kind of shooting and I've read about people using M42's in Av mode so they don't have to push the green button all the time . How does this work?
Not sure, but even in M mode, no need to hit Green button other than when the light changes, which is basically never for indoor sports. Set exposure and leave it - or as I said, bump up and down if one area is noticeably brighter / darker than another. But really, the differences one would normally be seeing are small enough that they are easily dealt with in RAW processing.